Cuong Nguyen

Not sure, but the hub hole might be a tad small. Wouldn't hurt to try it on before buyin.

I keep my on because I see a lot of street driving. I'll get around to installing some quick disconnects someday..

My dad bought Shelly for me and ever since he did, I've been wrenching on her and I love every second of it. A lot of time, money, and blood has been spent. Tough love. Sadly, my dad is no longer with us and I just can't see myself letting her go.

our local club sponsor is Napa back on the border! hehe I"ll have to hit them up. Is it safe to hot tank the heads? Is it bad for aluminum? I don't know anything about hot tanking... I have the stage 1 cams on order and they'll be going into the heads after I have it checked out. I plan on tearing everything down on the heads. I have to find a place that will do a port and polish and valve job. I'm sure my valves need some lapping done with all the crud on it. Things being reused: block, pistons, connecting rods, heads, valve springs and retainers. Everything else is coming off my current motor or brand spanking new parts. that is if the blocks and heads check out. This is my first time doing a full rebuild on an engine. Definitely an experience!

A guy said, it's not worth boring the block and said I should just get another block find one that's already rebuilt... I find it hard to call it quits. Like you said, I'll have to take it a reputable shop and get their opinion. Here's #4 piston. You can see where the edge of it hit the ground when it rolled off: [image]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/cuongnutz/VG33/DSC01372.jpg[/image] There' some pitting in cylinders 4 and 6 but more than i like in number 3. #3: #4: funky wear in #5: I checked with Nissan and it seems they have 0.25 and 0.5 OS rings along with the standard size. I scratched either #4 or #3 bearings and journal. Not too worried about it since I plan on using a new 3.0 crank and bearings....if the cylinders and pistons check out right. I don't have calipers or micrometers to do the measurements so I'll be taking it to a shop, if I can find a reputable one back on the border. I'll need to move onto the heads and check them out. I noticed that the rear passenger side head has a tendency have oil baked on the rocker assembly:

I got the pistons out of the block. I scratched a bearing along with the journal as well.. nothing serious. Number 4 piston's rings are frozen from all the carbon. Doesn't look good. I checked with Courtesty Nissan and they have .025 OS, and .50 OS, along with standard size Rings.

use a jack under the balljoint to help it seat, so you can tighten it down

I just shot you a PM. Can I go ahead and pull the pistons out without a ridge reamer? It looks like I'll be replacing the rings anyways. There's pitting in the brown marks and spots in the cylinders. I'm hoping honing will get rid of them, if not then i'd have to overbore and get oversized pistons. Considered the VH45DE pistons as used in the Project Pathfinder of Nissan Sports Mag... Also I will be using the 3.0 crank since I can't find anyone local that can machine down the crank snout which would mean new bearings for the rods and crank.

Looks like I'll have to follow in yall's footsteps Slick and unccpathfinder! I'd like to add that I think I'm black. I have the worst luck ever. How do I go about painting the block? I live on the coast and would like to keep it rust free.

do you think I could hone away the "rust/water" spots in the cylinders? How do you know I would need new piston rings?

well I finally got the heads off then engine... now I'm like dumbfounded. I don't know what to do next.

Great write up! I'm planning on doing the same swap on mine as well, but I have the engine out already. I have a few questions to ask: what exactly is endfloat? Did you change out the hydraulic lifters? I take it you didn't due to the low mileage of your engine. Notice your engine bay and internals are clean! Did you use engine assembly lube? Did you notice the big change in power through the rpms?

IT can be, I've seen pictures posted in a frontier though. You'll probably have to trim the sides for it to fit. The guages are adjustable.

I have the terrano one in mine....

Know of any other place to pick them up for cheap?

thought I bring this topic from the dead. I'm getting crazy amounts of road noise to where it's hard to hear the person in the passenger seat talking granted even enjoy the music. I've already replaced the door hinge pins. The only thing left I can think of is replacing the weather stripping. Has anyone replaced them with new ones with good results? I think I was quoted 120 for all 4 doors.

hoping to be following your path soon bro. hatin the SUA setup already. dented the crap out of my oil pan last night.

IIRC, you should just be able to replace the lightbulb for the clock. You can pick up the light bulb at probable in auto parts store. If it's one of those microlamps, then you can pick those up at radioshack or electronics store. Explain the problem you're having with your Tach. Does it work intermittenly? Does it bounce like crazy? If so, no other fix I can think of other than replacing the the tach unit itself. My Tach works when it wants to and bounces like crazy when it wants too. I just live with it until I can find myself a new one.

I got lucky with my rear parking brake lines and found them on ebay for cheap! The parking brakes for the rear disk axles are small brake shoes. The only place I can find them was at the dealership. I ordered mine from pinnaclenissan.com

I'd swap your cams from your 3.0 heads onto the 3.3 heads if you ever do the swap. you can reuse your 3.0 crank if you don't want to have the 3.3 crank machined to fit the 3.0 pulley. you'll most likely need new bearings but plastigage first and see if everything is within specs.

I'd imagine it would work as well. ABS is not affected. Don't know what EBD is.

thanks! I was just making sure that Nissan didn't do anything funny with the mounts throughout the years. I was thinking about using a spacer as well, but i'm worried about the strength and structural integrity of the spacer being just bolted on

I haven't had the time to put everything together....

You still around Steevo? I have a question about the transmission crossmember. The two crossmembers 2wd and 4wd are different along with the driver side mount on the frame. I don't recall you mentioning that issue with your swap. What did you do to fix it? I have a early model 93.

got it