Cuong Nguyen

I just have some Pioneers 5x7s back there. Had to drill some holes for them though. They almost bottom out in the ceiling. You're better off just making a spacer for it if you want to use those 6x9s although you will not be able to put the speaker cover/grill back on.

noice! learned something new!

exhaust routing is the same.

I want to say he's referring to a couple of bolts towards the front of the tranny pan. The cooler lines are in the way to get to it. I didn't have much trouble use a 1/4" ratchet and extension.

:bow:

I didn't have to remove any exhaust piping to get to the pan. It's a whole bunch of 10mm bolts. Drain the fluid first, of course, and slowly remove the pan. You won't be able to drain all the fluid out of the pan so have a drip pan ready. The pan has a magnet at the outlet of the filter. clean the magnet of metal shavings. the filter itself is not hard to remove. You will need a new gasket. Only special tool is a gasket scraper. I don't really like the cork gaskets. To me, they don't seem to seal well.

You should really look into the Kumho Venture MTs. They're great MT tires along with the price and do well on the road and off.

Well I'm almost done with the botch job. Used a rattle can and didn't realized I picked up the wrong stuff and started spraying. Thought I had picked up the primer... but ended up being paint. oh well. I didn't tape the area off and went at it. Yeah, it looks like crap, but it should keep her from rusting

Mud and crap tends to accumulate in the spark plug areas since it has no where else to go....

I too found out the hard way. You have to remove the fender to be able to take it out and replace it.

A lot of wiring to get it to work although most of the wire from your pathy will work with it. You'll need a manual ECU although you could possibly trick your auto ecu. I don't have the time to figure out how the manual and auto ecu's differ though to tell you how it could work.... The pinout on the ECUs should be similar so it's just a matter of you swapping some plugs from the 95 onto yours. Maybe you'll have to add some wiring if there any any additional sensors. In thought, it should be a relatively easy swap. I've already figured out how to get my swap working. Only thing left is to get plan out all the wiring I have left. Just remember that little detail that slick found out when using an auto engine and trying to mate it with the flyweel of a manual.

Check all your door switches. Then check your door lock timer. Usually the relay goes bad from all the bouncing around. It's located behind the rear driver side quarter panel.

Either faulty connection or signs that the Tach is about to crap out on you.

I don't remember if the RCs are just rebranded Ranchos. Go 9000s

"Just do it" - Nike

big one?

I have some pictures on my cardomain link of when i did my body lift. The hardlines you are referring to are the brake lines and the vent line for the charcoal canister from the gas tank. I suggest you the spray the poop out of all the bolts and the steering shaft with some PB Blaster. Do one side at a time and lift slowly. You'll probably have to "stretch" the front hard brake lines. There's enough slack from the coils.

I suck at using bondo! It dried up on me too quick. Also, it's very runny beforehand and so it went through the holes. Gotta find someone to tack some sheetmetal on or what not. I'm going to have to clean roof again since it's rusting over again due to the rain.

Ended up ripping the remost insert out through the top. Dremeled down the insert to where I could pop it through with the hammer. Going to sand down what I can and cover up the rust since a storm is moving in. I'll have to wait until dry weather to work on it again. I've never done body work before so I'm wondering as to how to repair my rust problem. One of the areas is rusted bad. The rust almost ate through the sheetmetal. This this how you do it?: sand/grind the rust until you have is just bare shiny metal make sure you don't touch it the metal after doing so seal it add bondo/putty/filler let it cure sand it smooth paint and wax the poop out of it

stripped the heads of the screws. Yep, those POS inserts are spinning. I'm going to have to dremel/cut the the inserts in order to remove the inserts and rails. I don't think I can get to the rearmost insert. I might have to rip it through the top...

I'll give it a try and update you on it!

How is the roof rack railings held down? I see the screws but it seems like they're not backing out. I need to fix the rust that's spreading from under the railings :o

Check to see if the starter cable is loose and at the battery terminals. Have someone beat on the starter while you try to start it.

I'm lucky to even hit 250 miles per tank. Rolling on metric 225x75x15s Could be that I'm running on 5 cylinders too i think.

Most the kits the store carries are just the regular tail light converters that tap into the tail lights and depend on the tail light wiring for power. Doing so, you run the risk of shorting out by putting an excessive load from the trailer lights. I don't think I've heard of any fellow finders having shorting out there stuff from the trailer lights.