Cuong Nguyen

I'M SO EFFING GLAD IT'S BACK UP AND RUNNING! I spent many times a day going on here hoping that it's up and running!

you're suppose to put it somewhere where you can access it quick, but the only place that's safe to me is back behind in the cargo area.

Yes, they will bolt up. I'm sure you could use the MAF sensor off the 3.3 as well since it's a ginormous bore. Also, replace the intake charge pipe--the rubber/plastic pos with some real piping. pointless to swap the 3.3 intake manifolds onto your 3.0 because it has no provisions for the EGR and emissions and plus it's the same thing as your 3.0 intake manifold. What you want is the heads off the 3.3.

you can "tighten" up your steering via a la adjusting screw. It's flathead screw you adjust. It takes small increments so don't over do it or else you'll wear out the gear, IIRC. You'll have to loosen the screw with a wrench, and then get your flathead and adjust.

They should be the same. Only thing is, on the 2wds, they don't have the rear mount brackets for the front differential. Other than that, they're all the same.

not hard at all to remove. you'll need to remove the switches on the dash. Just two. The hazards and something else to get the dash trim panel removed. They are 3 or 5 screws holding the panel in place. You might have to adjust the steering column tilt to manuever it out. Afterwards, its' just a matter of remove the screws holding the cluster in place and unplugging wires.

The reason being that the headlights are forming condensation is because it's not sealing correctly. This happens most likely with aftermarket headlights although I've had good luck with Eagle brand. Anyhow, to fix the problem, remove your headlight and throw it in the oven for a couple of minutes. Quickly pull the glass off from the housing. Clean the interior of the lense, then throw it back in the oven. Pull it back out and seal the glass to the housing pressing firmly. It's hot so wear some gloves! Once it has cooled off, seal the edges with silicone or some type of sealant.

yeah, that's what I thought. Guess, I'm stuck with finding a transmission out of a pre94

I'm trying to figure what all I need to use my mechanical speedo with a 94+ transmission. Can anyone enlighten me?

wowzers!

what is this plasti-guage?

no, this is on my Xterra motor. I'm trying to get the ball rolling and do the swap into Shelly. Thanks for everyone's input so far

I've never done this job before and was trying to figure if it's difficult to do so. I was wondering what I should look out for and any tips and pointers to make it less of a headache to do. Any special tools needed? Do I need to remove the pistons and connecting rods as well after removing the crank? I need to invest in an engine stand

There are two amps, if you have a 93, one of the amp is directly behind the radio unit. the other amp is located in the rear passenger quarter panel. You'll have to remove the panels in order to get to it.

i try

pulled up the threads in previous post

buy yourself a bike.

Only difference I can recall is that little cup for the oil on the input shaft... but other than that they're the same. I'll see if I can pull the thread up from AC. Link one link two

many thanks guys

I'm not at home so I don't have the link to the website nor do I have my FSMs. Can anyone post me the link to the website where I can download the FSMs for my Pathfinder and Xterra for free? I need to finish up on my wiring schematics for my conversion. Much thanks appreciated!

the boosters are the same, just not hte master cylinder.

inside the cab or outside? if it's outside, than that's just the drain for the evaporator. if you're leaking in side, that means the drain is stopped up. you'll need to remove the drain hose and poke through it carefully to dislodge whatever is clogging it.

I found out the problem... My battery clamps are rusted to crap so I was getting poor contact with the battery terminals. I'm going to have to find me a new set. Thanks for the help guys

I was driving home from far far away and suddenly she dies on me. I tried starting her over but she wouldn't fire up. At that moment, I thought my timing belt went out on me. So I get a local wrecker from back home to get me home. Totally not easy on the wallet. Anyhow, I finally got the chance to check her out. I pulled my dizzy cap off and noticed that my rotor screw came out??! WTF? I can't recall if it was still aligned when I pulled it off or not but I saw marks on the rotor where the screw had hit it. Started to pull stuff apart to see if my timing belt was intact....and it was! With my god-forsakened luck all the timing marks are aligned TDC without me having to remove the timing belt and setting the cams and crank to TDC. Call me stupid if that's normal, but it's been awhile since I've last touched her. Now, I'm thinking, I'm such a dumbass and should've checked my compression before pulling stuff off to check the timing belt. So, the million dollar questions.... If the rotor to have moved incorrectly, could I have $#&%ed something up? I was going about 65 mph at the time. Could a dead/weak battery cause her not to fire up? Same thing with a bad alternator? Suggestions?? I gotta leave back to my duty station tomorrow at least and very very early sunday morning at the latest.

yeah, Steeve-O completed his swap. I haven't yet. Too many problems happening to me, but he did his with no problems.