Cuong Nguyen

haha. yep that's the hidding one! Also, there's two behind the front bumper corner piece.

yeah, I'm not. I ordered these through little foot offroad aka littlejeeper on here. He's the one selling the arms. I just emailed him about it. The passenger side arm is fine. It's nothing remarkable like that of the driver side.

I just got my Rough Country arms. Reason I asked was when I opened it, I immediately saw that something wasn't right. The rear driver side spindle tuble is not welded straight. It's not straight with the front driver side spindle tube. The pictures show what I'm talking about. The second picture shows it even more. The bushing and spindle is centered in the rear driver side spindle tube. In that picture, the opposite end(far end)--which is the driver side front-- show's how bad it is.

Think you could snap some photos of it and the seat rails?

I'm looking to change out my front seats since I've been so acustomed to my nice little Honda seat that holds me snug. Anyone using any seats from other cars? Looking for something that has lumbar support and adjustability, but mostly to hold me in and not slide around. I can do any fab work that doesn't involve welding

there's no need to mark it since when it comes out the rack at the factory, there's a nice glob of "glue" that leaves an imprint. The door will stay stuck to the body after you remove all 4 bolts. It just takes a nice tug for it to come off. Be aware, the door IS heavy. There is where you need an extra hand to help. I've removed all my doors and replaced all the hinge pins. Well the front ones, that is.

I know the tubular style arms are not perfect and square, but would their be any problems with alignment or premature wear of bushings because of it? This is more directed to the guys who have them whether the brands be AC, Super Lift, or Rough Country.

It's a helluva lot easier if you remove the hinges from the doors. You'd be killing yourself trying to replace the hinge pins with the doors still attached to the body, but if you do go this route, make it easier on yourself and remove the fender. Make sure you don't overtightened the bolts or else they'll brake inside the body......don't ask how I know.

head over to 4x4parts. remember seeing a couple.

Most coming sites of leakage.. rear main seal, valve covers, and the passenger side cam seal.

wires are wires and plugs are just plugs. Just stick to NGKs and you'll be fine. NGKs have a protectiving coating to prevent them from rusting over. Not too sure about any other plugs. Plus NGKs are stock on Nissans and most Imports.

Oh, I forgot to mention the hubs blowing first sssh

The yotas and patrols are passenger drops, aren't they?

My 4x4 swap price rough country lift arms 200 lower balljoints 54 upper balljoints 40 inner tie rods 26 outer tie rods 70 Warn Locking hubs 150 Firestone lifetime alignment 150 CV axles 200 SAW torsion bars 190 sway bar disconnects 90 parts pathfinder 700 L&P steering stage 2 355 total: 2225 Bare minimum auto locking hubs 15 CV axles 200 transmission+t-case 500 transmission crossmember 35 spindles 100 front drive shaft 35 rear drive shaft 55 front differential 100 front crossmember 25 total 1065 welding and metal not included as well as tax. the prices vary depending on how cheap you can get the stuff for. Just a ballpark figure.

swing out tire rack you mean... hehe

sweet. I've already talked to one of the guys selling the heads. 88, I had to remove the upper intake to access the left valve cover. Don't think the valve could seize over time to where ti's stuck.. I guess I'll have to see when I tear everything apart. 88 rules, supr3m3 h4x0r 43v3r

Nice find! Haven't had the time to start searching up parts since I've been tired and sleeping. Do you think the rings and bottom end will hold up with "new" heads?

I remember when I first fired it up after it sitting for over a year that I heard loud smacking and turned her off immediately. described the problem and sound and people thought it was just bad gas and it was just knocking... I guess something something got lodged into the valves when I replaced the valve cover gaskets. I was pretty sure the timing was still on since I tore everything apart to check after I heard that craziness...

that's the thing, I don't know how they got bent or stuck... perhaps it was from when the engine was sitting for so long...

I found out I have bent valves... for sure #5 and #6 maybe... Might end up selling Shelly and look for another one like her. She has 170k miles.

I think there's a how-to on removing the starter here. I used a lot of extensions to get to the starter bolts. I hated dealing with oil mess so I invested in an oil filter relocation kit.

Why not just head to your local hardware store?

The front diff is the last of your worries when you have a front locker. First to go... tie rods, CVs, UCAs, then maybe the front diff

I ran optima since they were the only gell cell sealed typed I knew at the time. I'd suggest you go with a sealed type or similar--orbitar or optima because you don't want battery acid leaking all over the place and eating up your paint... just look at my hood.. also, if you do some rough offroading, the plates inside the regular batteries can brake although it's not really common.

I don't think it should even matter, in my honest opinion.