Cuong Nguyen

looks nice. the claws remind of the x-terrains. how much do the wheels weigh? Can't wait to see them mounted!

This is something for those out there who are two wheel drive and looking to convert to 4x4. This is other option to having a front drivetrain of some sort. it would be cheaper and perhaps easier to start off with 4x4 in the beginning but you live and you learn and it's a part of modding and wrenching. You're probably thinking, why not just go with a solid axle swap? Well, some people do not realize how much money is involved in one. You think it's cheap? Not one bit. I know from personal experience. Anyways, you can pick up most of these parts from people who swapped to a solid front axle for relatively cheap if not dirt free. Majority of the swap is mostly bolt except for the front differential. The two wheel drive pathfinders lack the rear frame mounts for the front diffrential crossmember. There are two crossmembers that the front diff sits on and the 2wd has only one--the main one that holds the front suspension together. you're going have to fabricate some mounts/brackets in order to securely mount the front differential. Everything else needed for the swap is basically common sense stuff which I hope all of you have. If not, I highly suggest you pick up a FSM or at least a Chilton's or Haynes or equivilent at the bare minimum. I can do the swap in probably two days by myself with hand tools. One day is pushing it if I started in the morning. As for those who have never tackled such a job. Expect a week at most so make sure you have another vehicle to get around in. What you will need: front differential/axle with corresponding gear ratio to match the rear axle shafts manual hubs--the autos will work fine but you might as well upgrade to the manuals right now front spindle/hub assemblies (optional but recommended: new rotors/turned w/ new brakes) front drive shaft rear one piece drive shaft corrresponding transmission with transfer case shifter assembly and accessories Speedometer cable (?) PB Blaster or similar Jacks 2 set of jack stands Optional but recommended: upper ball joints lower ball joints Lift UCAs Aftermarket torsion bars steering upgrade rear main seal transfer case gear oil

I think you're forgetting something.... Trailmaster lift. Anyone can fit 35's without a problem if you stack lifts. Oh Steve, how are you going about converting to 4wd? Are you going the stock route or SAS?

it's common. do a search and you'll pull up lots of thread as to how it was fixed. requires lots of welding and plating.

Brake fluid or power steering fluid... but it would seem like it'd be brake fluid.. check to see if any of your brake lines or your MC is leaking...

What RedPath said... ATF. That's what I've been using since I got my path. So where exactly is it leaking out of?

the oil cooler is a pretty simple install... The instructions that come with it is pretty general and is about all you need.. I mounted my cool to the rear of the AC condenser. You're going to have to remove your radiator to access the location as well as route the cooler lines. Hopefully you bought the biggest size cooler if you plan on bypassing your stock cooling unit.

The spacer 88 is referring to is the thrust block. They're only found in the open diff rear ends. When I swapped to disks, I didn't even bother removing the thrust block out. Others have done the same and have had no problems about it. Others say you need to remove it but I have yet to hear of a problem with keeping them in.

Nice nice All I got are my fists of fury

When was the last time you checked your power steering fluid? it sounds like it's low if it's moaning and groaning. Where at your front diff is this fluid? Have you checked your coolant level? I'd say clean the fluid off, let it dry, let the truck run and see where the fluid is coming from. edit: MZ beat me

No such thing as electronic LSD... you'll need the brake master cylinder from your 92 and put it on your 93. I hear supposively there's a difference in ABS actuator between the disk brakes and drum brakes but I don't know for sure. I didn't even bother switching them over. I just kept the one from my drum brakes. My suggestion is to keep the open diff and throw in a locker, but the LSD may suit your needs.

Does anyone know how to remove the input shaft? I have the auto tranny out of the truck but I can't seem to figure what's holding it back from coming loose? Anyone happen to have a FSM handy or some expertise to share with me?

give me a bowl of pho, and i'll think about upgrading your skill level, youngin.

What I did was get a wrench that'd fit on the shaft end and beat on the wrench with a big hammer. worked for me. took a while but it worked.

That's a good paint job on the Pathy! EFFIN bright and stand out!

I had the same problem with mine as well when I did mine.

The steering shaft has a slip joint in case of an accident. if you look in the middle of the shaft, you'll see a rubber to prevent crap coming in the splines. Over time, the shaft will kinda rust up. I had to soak mine in PB blaster for a while and knock it loose. I removed the shaft completely out to do it. Make sure you mark the shaft so it goes back in the same way it was before. The shaft is held on by 12mm bolts on both ends, IIRC. As for the front bumper brackets, I had to cut a notch on the front brackets so it won't interfere with the groove and point straight up. Like GrimGreg said, you coujld tack some welds so it'd stay sturdier. Also, you could fabricate your own one piece bracket. Go to my Cardomain page and look on page 4. You'll see the bumper brackets I talk about.

talk about ginormous@

Greg, that's basically what SLR has... It's basically the diff mounts have a offset center that is lower. As for any further amount of diff dropping, then you'd be looking into a trailmaster suspension kit.

I'd go with the 4" trailmaster. That's a true suspension lift. Also you keep the same steering geometry as stock unlike the UCA lifts sold. You should make a storage box out of your front bumper since it has a big enough cavity to do it

Well, she fired up today on the first try without a problem. I guess the plugs were wet from water and letting it sit for a while let them dry up? Oh well. She drives! I just need to readjust the alignment on the quest alternator

maybe rear hatch lock sensor is loose. check the hood switch as well as door switches.

Shelly didn't burn up. My parts Pathfinder did. Anyhow, I've been driving her back and forth with very low gas in it and now she's not firing up.

I replaced my power steering pulley because it was bent and tightened up the tension on the alternator belt. Went to start her up, but she wouldn't fire. Look at the gas gauge and it's sitting on empty. I go to gas station and pump 4 gallons of gas and put it in the pathfinder at home. She wouldn't fire still. You think that it's not starting is because of water inside my gas tank from sitting too long?

ah, don't feel bad. At least you still have a transmission! I gotta find me another one or fix the current one.