Cuong Nguyen

A lot of wiring to get it to work although most of the wire from your pathy will work with it. You'll need a manual ECU although you could possibly trick your auto ecu. I don't have the time to figure out how the manual and auto ecu's differ though to tell you how it could work.... The pinout on the ECUs should be similar so it's just a matter of you swapping some plugs from the 95 onto yours. Maybe you'll have to add some wiring if there any any additional sensors. In thought, it should be a relatively easy swap. I've already figured out how to get my swap working. Only thing left is to get plan out all the wiring I have left. Just remember that little detail that slick found out when using an auto engine and trying to mate it with the flyweel of a manual.

Check all your door switches. Then check your door lock timer. Usually the relay goes bad from all the bouncing around. It's located behind the rear driver side quarter panel.

Either faulty connection or signs that the Tach is about to crap out on you.

I don't remember if the RCs are just rebranded Ranchos. Go 9000s

Well, you prolly remember me poking my head around there Last time I went on there was when I got the email about how they "revamped" the forums...

"Just do it" - Nike

big one?

I have some pictures on my cardomain link of when i did my body lift. The hardlines you are referring to are the brake lines and the vent line for the charcoal canister from the gas tank. I suggest you the spray the poop out of all the bolts and the steering shaft with some PB Blaster. Do one side at a time and lift slowly. You'll probably have to "stretch" the front hard brake lines. There's enough slack from the coils.

I suck at using bondo! It dried up on me too quick. Also, it's very runny beforehand and so it went through the holes. Gotta find someone to tack some sheetmetal on or what not. I'm going to have to clean roof again since it's rusting over again due to the rain.

Ended up ripping the remost insert out through the top. Dremeled down the insert to where I could pop it through with the hammer. Going to sand down what I can and cover up the rust since a storm is moving in. I'll have to wait until dry weather to work on it again. I've never done body work before so I'm wondering as to how to repair my rust problem. One of the areas is rusted bad. The rust almost ate through the sheetmetal. This this how you do it?: sand/grind the rust until you have is just bare shiny metal make sure you don't touch it the metal after doing so seal it add bondo/putty/filler let it cure sand it smooth paint and wax the poop out of it

stripped the heads of the screws. Yep, those POS inserts are spinning. I'm going to have to dremel/cut the the inserts in order to remove the inserts and rails. I don't think I can get to the rearmost insert. I might have to rip it through the top...

I'll give it a try and update you on it!

How is the roof rack railings held down? I see the screws but it seems like they're not backing out. I need to fix the rust that's spreading from under the railings :o

Check to see if the starter cable is loose and at the battery terminals. Have someone beat on the starter while you try to start it.

I'm lucky to even hit 250 miles per tank. Rolling on metric 225x75x15s Could be that I'm running on 5 cylinders too i think.

Most the kits the store carries are just the regular tail light converters that tap into the tail lights and depend on the tail light wiring for power. Doing so, you run the risk of shorting out by putting an excessive load from the trailer lights. I don't think I've heard of any fellow finders having shorting out there stuff from the trailer lights.

I'm jealous!

Well, finally got around about bought a bit with a 3/8th shank. Shouldve done that in the beginnning. I used 1/2" hardware. Problems I ran into: I found out that the frame is gusseted internally. Luckily it's off-centered. I wanted to place the bolt with the tail end hanging below but I couldn't because the rear frame crossmember was in the way. There was no way to fit the bolt inside the frame without drilling a larger hole in the frame to access the hole I had to drill for the hitch. Instead, I had to put the the bolt in the frame and thread the bolt through below. Not much surface are to spread the load but it has enough to bite.

uh... it's attached the the washer fluid reservoir! Trace the hose for the front squirters to the pump.

hopefully this hasn't been dicussed already Anyhow, Would a regular tail light converter be fine for me or should I get a converter with straight wire to the battery to be on the safe side? Could I use a regular converter and up the fuse amp rating? Just curious.

so did you finish it yet?

Well I went out and bought me a 7/16 bit and hardware and came home to find out that the bit is too big for the drill I have at home.... ah.

bungee cords

I just recieved my hitch in the mail--Thanks Dagwoodz! Anyhow, do you use all four mounting points or just the rear two? The forward mounting points don't seem to line up and I was wondering what did size hardware did you use to mount them. The hitch is a Class 3 U Haul

get yourself a battery and touch the two wires for the window motors and it'll go down. you'll get the idea.