Cuong Nguyen

I'm jealous!

Well, finally got around about bought a bit with a 3/8th shank. Shouldve done that in the beginnning. I used 1/2" hardware. Problems I ran into: I found out that the frame is gusseted internally. Luckily it's off-centered. I wanted to place the bolt with the tail end hanging below but I couldn't because the rear frame crossmember was in the way. There was no way to fit the bolt inside the frame without drilling a larger hole in the frame to access the hole I had to drill for the hitch. Instead, I had to put the the bolt in the frame and thread the bolt through below. Not much surface are to spread the load but it has enough to bite.

uh... it's attached the the washer fluid reservoir! Trace the hose for the front squirters to the pump.

hopefully this hasn't been dicussed already Anyhow, Would a regular tail light converter be fine for me or should I get a converter with straight wire to the battery to be on the safe side? Could I use a regular converter and up the fuse amp rating? Just curious.

so did you finish it yet?

Well I went out and bought me a 7/16 bit and hardware and came home to find out that the bit is too big for the drill I have at home.... ah.

bungee cords

I just recieved my hitch in the mail--Thanks Dagwoodz! Anyhow, do you use all four mounting points or just the rear two? The forward mounting points don't seem to line up and I was wondering what did size hardware did you use to mount them. The hitch is a Class 3 U Haul

get yourself a battery and touch the two wires for the window motors and it'll go down. you'll get the idea.

alt belt loose? bad alt? loose cables on battery and or alternator?

I know didly squat about the ka24 trannies, but I did know swapping the output shafts work on the REas;ldkfjasldkj transmissions

The CV shaft ends are splined in the spindles. The CV to front diff is only held on by rust and 5 12mm nuts. If it were me, i'd just separate the spindles since I don't want to remove the the lower control arms.... BTW, you're the first to probably do this swap

remington mud brutes?

that is the spark plug removal tool the jack accessories is that long rod that clamps under the rear seats with the lug nut tool.

Have you even swapped in the transmission and transfercase and welded in the front diff crossmember brackets? You won't be able to get the front drive train in one piece unless you'd have a couple of extra hands to help you carry the parts and bolt them on as you mount the front diff onto the front crossmember. You don't really want to be dragging that @!*% all over the place since it's heavy. Make sure you clean out the bolt threads in the front crossmember since they may be filled with mud and crap. I don't know how much of the front drivetrain you pulled out but if you kept the front diff on the front crossmember it sits on you could just remove your current one and mount that one directly onto it and bolt everything up accordingly. You're going to need to remove the torsion bars since they're atttached to the lower control arms. unless you plan on reusing your lower control arms and just swapping the spindles on.

i usually ask about the mileage, and what all comes with it, warranty, and compression testing

The bolt patterns between the two are almost the same. You might have to drill out the holes a little to fit them on. You are talking about the 3.0 headers on a 3.3 right?

yeah, a little is nothing to frett about

I finally got my new set of arms from RC/Heckethorn. The driver side arm is definitely straighter, more square, parallel, what-have-you. They could use a better jig for the spindle tubes since they're slightly off--nothing extreme like before. Not sure what their jig looks like but they should use a pipe where it's OD is the same as the ID of the spindle tubes and have it go through both of the spindle tubes. I'll call up RC tomorrow when I'm free and let them know I received them and share some of my comments to them. Other than that, I'm real happy with the customer service and how fast they were to respond!

what they said^^^ the 2wd rear driveshaft is 2 pieces and you'll need the carrier bearing and etc.

i'm currently in the process in seeing if I can swap the output shafts. Been swapped with finals and work and haven't had the chance. You could always call the law on the guy who sold it to you or give him a visit since you do have his address. I don't recall anyone ever doing such a swap though so you're kind of walking in unknown territory. Would like to know how it works out if you do.

One of mine are bent slightly. been driving around with it for a while. Could be why I'm getting a slight shake from the rear end.

I just got word that they are sending me new ones

I'm pretty familiar with the Honda series of seats and they are indeed nice. Never seen one in another vehicle beside itself though. What I don't like about my seats in the pathfinder is that the butt cushion is so soft that my but goes numb. Also no lumbar support and there are no side bolsters to keep you in the chair. I saw Trailchaser's aftermarket seats and they look Noice.

Yeah, I might have to be calling RC directly just as you did.