Cuong Nguyen

alt belt loose? bad alt? loose cables on battery and or alternator?

I know didly squat about the ka24 trannies, but I did know swapping the output shafts work on the REas;ldkfjasldkj transmissions

The CV shaft ends are splined in the spindles. The CV to front diff is only held on by rust and 5 12mm nuts. If it were me, i'd just separate the spindles since I don't want to remove the the lower control arms.... BTW, you're the first to probably do this swap

remington mud brutes?

that is the spark plug removal tool the jack accessories is that long rod that clamps under the rear seats with the lug nut tool.

Welcome aboard matey! Where in Texas are you from?

Have you even swapped in the transmission and transfercase and welded in the front diff crossmember brackets? You won't be able to get the front drive train in one piece unless you'd have a couple of extra hands to help you carry the parts and bolt them on as you mount the front diff onto the front crossmember. You don't really want to be dragging that @!*% all over the place since it's heavy. Make sure you clean out the bolt threads in the front crossmember since they may be filled with mud and crap. I don't know how much of the front drivetrain you pulled out but if you kept the front diff on the front crossmember it sits on you could just remove your current one and mount that one directly onto it and bolt everything up accordingly. You're going to need to remove the torsion bars since they're atttached to the lower control arms. unless you plan on reusing your lower control arms and just swapping the spindles on.

i usually ask about the mileage, and what all comes with it, warranty, and compression testing

The bolt patterns between the two are almost the same. You might have to drill out the holes a little to fit them on. You are talking about the 3.0 headers on a 3.3 right?

yeah, a little is nothing to frett about

I finally got my new set of arms from RC/Heckethorn. The driver side arm is definitely straighter, more square, parallel, what-have-you. They could use a better jig for the spindle tubes since they're slightly off--nothing extreme like before. Not sure what their jig looks like but they should use a pipe where it's OD is the same as the ID of the spindle tubes and have it go through both of the spindle tubes. I'll call up RC tomorrow when I'm free and let them know I received them and share some of my comments to them. Other than that, I'm real happy with the customer service and how fast they were to respond!

what they said^^^ the 2wd rear driveshaft is 2 pieces and you'll need the carrier bearing and etc.

i'm currently in the process in seeing if I can swap the output shafts. Been swapped with finals and work and haven't had the chance. You could always call the law on the guy who sold it to you or give him a visit since you do have his address. I don't recall anyone ever doing such a swap though so you're kind of walking in unknown territory. Would like to know how it works out if you do.

One of mine are bent slightly. been driving around with it for a while. Could be why I'm getting a slight shake from the rear end.

I just got word that they are sending me new ones

I'm pretty familiar with the Honda series of seats and they are indeed nice. Never seen one in another vehicle beside itself though. What I don't like about my seats in the pathfinder is that the butt cushion is so soft that my but goes numb. Also no lumbar support and there are no side bolsters to keep you in the chair. I saw Trailchaser's aftermarket seats and they look Noice.

Yeah, I might have to be calling RC directly just as you did.

haha. yep that's the hidding one! Also, there's two behind the front bumper corner piece.

yeah, I'm not. I ordered these through little foot offroad aka littlejeeper on here. He's the one selling the arms. I just emailed him about it. The passenger side arm is fine. It's nothing remarkable like that of the driver side.

I just got my Rough Country arms. Reason I asked was when I opened it, I immediately saw that something wasn't right. The rear driver side spindle tuble is not welded straight. It's not straight with the front driver side spindle tube. The pictures show what I'm talking about. The second picture shows it even more. The bushing and spindle is centered in the rear driver side spindle tube. In that picture, the opposite end(far end)--which is the driver side front-- show's how bad it is.

Think you could snap some photos of it and the seat rails?

I'm looking to change out my front seats since I've been so acustomed to my nice little Honda seat that holds me snug. Anyone using any seats from other cars? Looking for something that has lumbar support and adjustability, but mostly to hold me in and not slide around. I can do any fab work that doesn't involve welding

there's no need to mark it since when it comes out the rack at the factory, there's a nice glob of "glue" that leaves an imprint. The door will stay stuck to the body after you remove all 4 bolts. It just takes a nice tug for it to come off. Be aware, the door IS heavy. There is where you need an extra hand to help. I've removed all my doors and replaced all the hinge pins. Well the front ones, that is.

I know the tubular style arms are not perfect and square, but would their be any problems with alignment or premature wear of bushings because of it? This is more directed to the guys who have them whether the brands be AC, Super Lift, or Rough Country.

It's a helluva lot easier if you remove the hinges from the doors. You'd be killing yourself trying to replace the hinge pins with the doors still attached to the body, but if you do go this route, make it easier on yourself and remove the fender. Make sure you don't overtightened the bolts or else they'll brake inside the body......don't ask how I know.