Alkorahil

INTERESTING Kingman, I didnt know that!!!! thanks for sharing! VG30i injectors part number: 16021-12G00 07/86-08/87 part number: 16201-17C00 08/87-08/89 last five of the part numbers are completely different, not even close. The ECUs have the same production date splits...... Now, look at the Z24i injectors in the pathfinder: part number: 16021-17C00 07/86-08/88 part number: 16021-78G00 08/88-08/89

I will go with Kingman on this, he is the expert on the VG30i The chambers both MT and AT versions are seperate part numbers from 87 to 88,specifically the injectors and fuel pressure regulator are different, but I see no reason that they are not cross compatable/functional if the chamber and venturi are all replaced at once. And as Kingman said, move one doesnt have to the other.

You stated this happened all at once, not gradually, this sounds to me like some sort of issue with your shifter linkage or shifter forks. When you went to engage the shifter or change gears you popped a retaining pin, clip or spring or broke a knickle ball on one of the forks or something. There are many washers, nylon sockets, springs, etc that will all wear out over time in that shifter setup. With a synchro gear propblem it would pop out from gear, which you say it does not do.

This is a straight forward job, no need to remove the transfer case at all. Unbolt the front propeller shaft from the transfer case drain the transfer case oil remove the old seal carefully tap the new seal in place rebolt the front propeller shaft to the transfer case refill the transfer case with new oil. PART NUMBER: 33216-33G01 DESCRIPTION: SEAL, OIL, TRANSFER. If you choose to do the rear output propeller oil seal, it is the same proceedure. PART NUMBER: 33142-33G10 DESCRIPTION: SEAL, OIL, REAR

22765 is the correct part number from Magnaflow. Iis a direct bolt on application. I have put these on three 4WD pathfidners and one 4wd Hardbody truck in the past and the have fit fine, though can be a PITA getting the old one off. I suspect either the item you got was misboxed/misslabled or there had been some sort of exhaust work on your truck done in the past that altered the original factory setup. If you can post a pic of what you have I can take a look at it as well.

Something doesnt sound right. Is this a 4 cylinder pathfinder or V6? California or Federal model? What year model is it?

Sorry, should have said that.... PART NUMBER: 50260-31G01 BRACKET-TORSION, RH PART NUMBER: 50261-31G01 BRACKET-TORSION, LH $57.68 each (list: $76.90)

I took at look at the application dates of the part numbers and the break point is before and after production date 07/92 for the tie rods and cross link and idler arm and pitman.

Nissan does provide new ones with the mounting bracket that is welded to the frame, but you will have to do some cutting and welding. PART NUMBER: 50260-31G01 BRACKET-TORSION, RH PART NUMBER: 50261-31G01 BRACKET-TORSION, LH

The eyelets on one or both ends of the CL could also be so worn out/rounded out from years of bad tie rods that the new parts go in loose. Was that way on my Hardbody when I bought it.

Drop the lower engine cover and then start the vehicle in park with the parking brake on. Have someone get in the driver seat and slowly turn the wheel to the left then to the right while you look from undernear (not all the way under just enough to see clearly) at the steering linkage move and see if you can see what is causing the 'stick' in the linkage while things move around. That may point you in the right direction. check your power steering fluid level as well! Also, with the AC off, watch the rpms on the tach as you move the steering wheel, the rpms should dip down just a tad (100 RPM or so) for a second when you move the steering wheel. If fluid level is good and the rpms move some your power steering is operating, though if old repalcing the power steering fluid with some fresh new fluid might be a thing to put on your 'to do' list

Agreed, check the codes first! Could be a distributor, timing, Vacuum or MAF issue with it doing it below 2800 RPM.

To the rescue! 54210-31G10 ARM ANCHOR, RH $35.40 54211-31G10 ARM ANCHOR, LH $35.40 If they are seized up you will also probably need a bolt and pivot (one each per side) for the anchor as well: 54215-31G0A PIVOT, ANCHOR $5.83 54216-31G0A BOLT, ANCHOR $7.79

Nissan lets you go either way, they provide the complete washer motor with the motot to tank seal already attached, or the motor to tank seal as a seperate part. 28920-V5002 MOTOR-WASH $32.40 28921-50Y00 PACKING-WASH $4.33

Single blade connector with black wire.

HB taillights are a taller than Pathfinder, though they do look similar. The headlights again look similar but the HB headlights are sealed beam 3 prong connectors and the Pathfinder are not.

That is a bizzare combination for all at once. I agree that and inspection and checking the engine harnesses for a good connection first would be the place to start. Also check the screw in the middle that holds the ECU harness on the ECU itself , make sure it is snug. There were some Nissans we have had that the screw wasnt on tight and over the years the harness connection to the ECU would get a little loose.

***squeek squeek*** Agreed, its the bearings! ***squeek squeek***

I mounted mine onto the inner side of the LH fender hoodledge.

Albino, Yes, that would be good if you can find a regulator or a rebuild kit. I am not aware of any out there though in the aftermarket.

Just 12, not 12 X 6?

For your 95 WD21. Nissan still provides rebuild seal kits for the unit if you feel like taking that project on that way: 49321-55G27 SEAL KIT, SHAFT $16.79 49203-Y0127 SEAL KIT, GEAR $7.85 49277-Y0102 SEAL SET, PISTON $13.23 49345-55G26 SL KT-OIL, PINION $22.40 You are correct though, the steering gear for the early D21 and late WD21 are different: D21 V6 49200-31G00 GEAR ASMY 11/85-11/89 49200-88G00 GEAR ASMY 08/89-07/90 49200-93G10 GEAR ASMY 07/90-07/92 49200-59G15 GEAR ASMY 07/92-10/94 WD21 V6 49200-88G00 GEAR ASMY 08/89-07/90 49200-93G10 GEAR ASMY 07/90-07/92 49200-59G15 GEAR ASMY 07/92-10/94

interesting. Perhaps just closing the loop will work? You would haev to look at what kind of signal it gets from the sensor, check the FSM for the testing proceedure to see.

I dont think these were brilliant people trying to pull the wool over us.......

Yeah after making my engine bay look like Devonianwalks twice I tend to shy away from swamp mud, or at least take it slow.