hawairish

I think the transmission is the limiting factor for towing. I don't think discs and MC would improve the numbers, unfortunately.

I see. Had us fooled since you didn't mention that.

Looks like the 4-pinion to me. The 2-pinion open and 4-pinion LSD carrier have different cast gussets. From Nissan Nut's site:

That harness you're holding in the 3rd pic...I'm pretty sure that's the harness for the socket that would've been installed there if from the factory. The socket is the same as what's installed in the dash, but no shortage of other options.

No sweat. I ended up mounting mine on the carrier too, up on the upper hinge. I have one of those Firestik mounts but the gap on the lift gate seemed a little too small, so I never used it. I've got mine mounted with a spring and quick disconnect. Comes in handy for clearing garages and car washes (already snapped my antenna once).

If you still suspect any vibration from the driveshaft after changing the u-joints, check for driveshaft run-out. I had this exact symptoms after changing the u-joints on my rear shaft...wasn't pleased with the Naepco ones.

Doubt Virgil will reply (he went to the dark side some time ago, lol)...but it's a Firestik SS-204A mount, about $20 on eBay, Amazon, etc.

Lol, realizing that I've twice been mistaken about your carrier. @RainGoat: Yeah, NPORA is by far one of the best forums I've frequented. Good folk here, and I still keep in touch with a few of them offline. My kids love going camping and offroading, which makes me extremely happy. They also love climbing over and hanging onto the tire carrier...kid approved.

Gotcha, my bad. Yep, I went by the picture and year on the profile. Does the cracked part look like one of these two things? The black part is just a dust cover for the strut rod. These just seem to disintegrate over time. If that's toast on yours, I wouldn't worry about replacing it until the struts and/or springs need changing. The yellow/white part is the actual bumpstop, and it tucks into the dust cover. If that's cracked or split into two, you'll probably be okay under normal driving conditions. I'd be certain that there are several other members who don't even have them installed and it's probably not an issue...though I'd also guess they have lift springs to almost obsolete the bumpstop's purpose. If you're on stock springs and the truck tends to bounce a bit, just keep in mind that the spring effectively becomes the bumpstop, which can be harsh on the spring or strut's spring bucket. If you're in the rust belt, just something to be mindful of. And either way, as noted above, installing these requires full disassembly of the strut. Probably not worth changing unless you're replacing other things.

BTW, that's only true for the early VQ35's that have aluminum valve covers. The passenger valve cover has a boss on cylinder #1 that is different than the others. The plastic valve covers on later models all use the same coil packs on all 6 cylinders. Back to the original issue... Ideally, if budget affords, swapping all 6 wouldn't be a terrible idea considering you'll be in there doing the work on at least one already. It usually sucks doing the same job twice. But, it can also get expensive fast, and could produce little or no gain beyond peace of mind. There are some really cheap fuel injector cleaner kits available on eBay and AliExpress. It's little more than an aerosol solvent, injector adapter, and some wire leads. You provide a 12V source to open the injector and just spray through. Attempting to clean your injector may be a cheaper route, unless you're certain the solenoid is malfunctioning and replacement is the only option.

Similar subject, but different truck, different placement on truck, and different bumpstop style altogether. For R50's, the front bumpstop installs on the strut inside the coil spring and requires complete disassembly of the strut to replace. For the WD21 (if it's anything like my Frontier) it's a button-style bumpstop (a rubber pad with a threaded stud sticking out of it) that bolts to the frame. There's usually a larger lower bumpstop, and a smaller upper one. I don't think it'd take much more than a socket and ratchet to replace them (that's all it takes on the Frontier, which has a very similar frame), but you may want to confirm that with the WD21 guys. Generally speaking, they should be replaced when worn. If your suspension needs to cycle through a bump, they protect against metal-on-metal contact, which can cause damage.

No problem. I need to move a project forward, so I'll see how soon I can get to the JY. IIRC, Kyle's carrier came stock on his truck, but he wasn't a fan of it and removed it. However, of those who have done it so far, there's me, duke90 (I installed his), CDN_S4, TowndawgR50, and BlackPathy_CDN. TowndawgR50 has the rivet tool, and some good installation tips as well, so he might be your go-to. You can also ask him why he's not installed the Spartan locker yet .

Probably worth double-checking the lower mount of course, but I went by what Monroe and KYB said the size was and it sounded right (not home to confirm on my truck, though). They also list both bushing lengths as 42mm (1-11/16"). I was hoping to find the Rancho p/n I used, but no luck. I remember having difficulty finding specs on them, too, but whichever set I got, they fit the lower mount just fine (with a really thick washer).

Does it look like the upper sleeve on the shock would fit the lower stud on the truck? And lower sleeve fit the upper bolt? On the shocks I've got for an F-250, the upper and lower bushings just needed to be swapped to make it work, but the lower bushings didn't survive the press-out. However, Rancho (and probably also Prothane and Energy Suspension) has an assortment of poly shock bushings, so that's what I went with for my lower bushings. The shock bolts are 12mm upper and 16mm lower...but, you can use 1/2" and 5/8" ID sleeves with little to no modification, though the bushings I've seen (and what I used) are a bit narrower than our mounts so you might need some washers to sandwich the bushings.

@jjonez: No, that crease is from something else. If I had to guess, I'd say the carrier was bumped into the chassis on that one. But on that truck the area is already reinforced. But for trucks without the carrier, the area where the holes are is thinner and it flexes inward a little there. That's where I have to aluminum to thicken it up a little. @RainGoat: I've been meaning to hit up the JY near me...last time I was there, they had 2 or 3 R50s with some degree of carrier pieces. Not sure when I'll get there, but I can keep an eye out for them.

Mine's held up well, no complaints. But yes, the lower metal strip behind the bumper where all the latch hardware goes started to bend inward a little after repeated use. Still latched fine, but over time it would probably wear out the metal holes where the rivet nuts are seated. I put a strip of angle aluminum in the area to thicken up the steel. I had to overlap the rivnuts on mine because it was put on after the fact, but I'd recommend factoring that in from the beginning. I had my bumper off a few months ago to fix the plastic and should have gotten some pics. I may take the bumper off soon for an upcoming trip and get some pics then. Eventually, if I ever fab up a bumper, I'll incorporate the latch mounts onto it.

And Kyle, glad to hear from you! Hopefully you've been able to also put some time towards the Z. Keep us posted on both builds!

A clock. I wish it was just another vent.

I've been running the Pep Boys equivalent of the A/T3 for 2 years come Sept, 18K on them rotated among 5 tires. I've been very pleased. They've seen just about everything except heavy/deep snow (have seen some nasty slush conditions while towing a trailer, though). Excellent on and off road manners. Haven't measured remaining tread, but I can hardly tell there's any wear just by looking at them.

I think I paid under $20 for one that looks a lot better than the actual pics shown.

Fuel hose from any auto parts store will do. Otherwise hardware stores carry rubber hose that'll suffice.

Possibly, though in my case, that took about 19 years to manifest.

The forum is far from dead. There are several SFD threads. Looking for anything in particular?

I've replaced the leather on my center console with one off eBay and fitment was actually good. I needed to trim some of the leather because I couldn't get it to tuck or flatten enough in some places when reassembling. Pretty easy to do with a Phillips, and I think I used a little hot glue to keep it from slipping around. That was a few years ago, and it's held up very well considering my kids constantly stepping on the console to go between front and rear seats.

The tube just goes into a 90° elbow that snaps into a hole in the chassis...that is, the tube is just a vent tube and is open anyway. The piece you see inside the tube in your pic is just what's left of it. Here's what mine looks like, 2004 SE...you can kind of see it just terminates into the chassis just above that bracket: What code are you throwing? You can pull down the charcoal canister pretty easily. If, after you remove the hoses and solenoid off the canister, charcoal starts coming out in granules, that's probably part of your problem. I dealt with this issue earlier in the year on my 98 Frontier, throwing P1444 and P0325 codes. I've got a description of the problem and my solution on that crappy NICO forum, but it's cluttered with two dip@!*%s' worth of comments. Perhaps an interesting read, but long story short, my evap canister let loose internally and allowed charcoal granules to get sucked all the way up into the engine bay over time, eventually clogging the purge solenoid. Required clearing out all the hard and soft lines, dismantling the purge solenoid, and a new cannister. Total PITA.