hawairish

Might be easier to pull the diff and check the ring gear for ratio markings ("48:11" or "51:11"), but otherwise there's only a 6% (22.5°) difference between the ratios. Hold one drum stationary when checking revolutions. The whole axle might not be a 100% swap over...96-99 models had a different shock mount setup than 00-04. Beyond that, they're identical. I think you'd save yourself a lot of work and just swap over the axle shaft assembly you need. Either way, it'd be good to pull the diff, inspect the gears, change the fluid, and change the oil seals (for sure the one on the side that came out). As for bushings, probably no difference performance wise, but splits will be easier to install. Though, the catch is that a floor press or large vise is sometimes required for either. You could bash it with a mini sledge, but beware the rebound.

Very easy to pull the axle shaft assembly out. Just need to undo the parking brake cable, brake hose, and 4 nuts. No retaining clips on the axle...the axle shaft presses into the wheel bearing and there's a large retaining nut that's supposed to keep everything from backing out. Chances are that the axle shaft is toast because the large nut will have stripped off (and the splines may be damaged, too, but I bet they're okay). The entire axle shaft assembly will direct swap over. Just stick with same side of the vehicle (right for right). If you need pics for reference, let me know.

The mount does have flats. You can pull the rod nut off while the truck is on the ground to check it out. The spring won't be going anywhere. If for some reason it's not seated, you might be able to pull/push the strut rod through, assuming the pressure doesn't move it through. If it's worn, doesn't really matter, but you do need to get it tightened to spec, which means you'll need a way to keep the rod from spinning.

Well, sway bars work best when level, so longer links are usually required to offset that. But, for small lifts, it's not really a problem. On the flip side, there are some donkey Chevy/GMC trucks I see around my area that have 6-8" lift, didn't bother with longer links, and the sway bars (which wrap around the backside of the diff) hang down like a hook on a Navy jet. Looks stupid.

Yeah, but he'll be at a disadvantage off the road.

Personally, if you can get poly without breaking your back importing them, go for it. I don't think they produce a harsher ride...firmer, yes; harsher, no. A much better alternative to rubber.

I'm sure they've gotten some repetitive requests, but really, the request isn't different from any other they get for any application. The u-joints are all modular and for any amount of shaft length, they want you to use their common shaft.

Only numbers that matter here are 536mm - 415mm = 121mm = 4.76". Less than I put in my other post, but still plenty longer. For sway bar end links, on the rear you could do a bracket spacer, or make your own links. I made a disconnect-able set, but hadn't gotten past figuring out how to pin the sway bar up. Many others will advocate just removing the bar.

Yep, AC = Automotive Customizers = 4x4parts.com. Though, that's always been their name and website for as long as I can remember (late 90's). Everything before that is a blur. I'm presuming there's some difficulty getting things to Colombia. Thought I'd look into it, thinking maybe I could help. Looks a bit more difficult than other things I've shipped internationally. But, if you must have poly, you may need to look to Australia or a distributor for Whiteline or SuperPro. I'm not seeing the front bushing for the LCA, only the rear LCA and trailing arms. SuperPro has all three styles: SPF4671K - LCA front SPF2037K - LCA rear SPF0399K - Trailing arms Is it difficult to even get OE replacements?

All H233B are similar. Only the gears, carrier, and carrier bearings can 100% port to any other H233B, but other parts like axle shafts, grease seals, and bearings are shared between all R50's, most D22's, and most WD22's. The axle housing is pretty much identical when you remove all suspension mounts. In fact, the true lineage considering it's the WD22. Actually, they have a lot of drivetrain similarities, just might not be 100% interchangeable.

Spline of shaft isn't important, but it's the "stock" style that Woodward Steering uses for all their applications. You are adapting from Nissan spline #1 (113) to Woodward spline (201) to Nissan spline #2 (108). Nothing from the factory link is used; complete replacement. The u-joints have set screws on them, which is why you need to ask that the finished shaft have set screw channels on both ends.

Not sure you checked the link I posted... Pathfinder: Frontier/Xterra:

Monroe Reflex 911194, for an F250/F350 RWD. Requires some bushing manipulation/swapping...right size bolt holes, just wrong ends of the shock. I ended up having the bushings removed, then used from poly bushings instead.

FWIW, I run the OE Nissan brake lines that I linked to previously, my rear shocks are 4" longer than stock (with about 3" of lift), and 3" SFD (about 4" of front lift)...no issues. I've put it through the paces, too.

I've encountered this muddling before...guys at the local parts store ask if my 04 is V6 or V8...my instinctive answer is, "There wasn't a V8 in 04" remembering immediately the Armada. I think another member here also bought some wheel hubs from RockAuto...bolt-on style that the R50s doesn't use. There are no shortage of parts listed there that aren't for R50s, and even there RA just splits the "Pathfinder" into 3.5L and 5.6L subcategories . Sometimes it's easier to just look for 02-03 parts.

This is the right answer. 2004 V6 Pathfinder vs. 2004 V8 Pathfinder Armada...totally different. Blame Nissan for not better distinguishing the name.

Good luck, man. Hope it's a smooth project. And shame about the wiring harness...doesn't it just detach from the firewall with a bolt?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40686-kfab/?p=762489

Sorry, I meant if you bought one of yours from a guy on CL.

Plans for them? Is one of those the one still on CL? There's a guy way out in Apache Junction who's got a Detroit-equipped one, but I was hoping to hear back from the other guy first.

The D44 axle can be a tough find, but would be worth it. The axle is closer to the H233B in size (H233B is still a beefier axle all around!) while the D30 is much closer in size to the older R180 than the R200. Rust will surely be an issue in most places (not so much here the desert), given the donor age. And you'll almost certainly need new gears to get close to OE Nissan ratios. Because of that, you'll also have to be mindful of the "carrier break" (the ratio in which a different carrier is required to account for ring gear thicknesses), when thinking about your setup. For 33" tires, 4.88 would be a good match to the OE 4.90s from an Xterra. 5.13 (41:8) gears exist for the H233B, and it's an exact match to a D44 option...perfect for 35".

Thanks, mjotrainbrain, I appreciate that. That route is a long way away for me (although, there are two D44 Wagoneer axles on my local CL, and one already has a Detroit in it...though I'd put another air locker in it since I'm already set up for it). Plus, there's something else I want to work on before tackling a project like that. As for the links, yes there are a few option for Jeeps. Though, the R50 ones are already much longer, and with OE ones running $36/ea, that price is hard to beat...of course, being able to use that length depends on a few factors. (In regards to the front driveshaft, Nissan Nut's site has a lot of great info about that.) SellOut: regarding your thought of using (rather, replicating) a Jeep setup, this is also something that has cross my mind. The XJ/WJ would, in my opinion, be the best to consider. Driver's side drop, 4-link, narrow diameter coils (and no shortage of length options)...if you could replicate those geometries and incorporate that into a new subframe, that seems like it would be reasonable option. Even a complete donor truck would be affordable, entirely for the suspension parts. The only cons to this I've been thinking about are the width of the axle (I think it might be just a little too narrow), the wheel bolt pattern (adapters exist, and would help with the width), and the strength of the D30 axle. The Jeep community tends to dislike this axle in general because it's not terribly strong...but usually when I see complaints like this, I presume it to mean guys who jumped to 35's, never regeared, and broke stuff. Nonetheless, there are some D30s to avoid altogether (those with vacuum disconnects), while some have potential. An axle truss reads like a should-have option for them, but I feel like this axle would would probably be beyond sufficient for a modest SAS. Plus, these axles are extremely abundant and cheap.

I think a full frame would be excessive, and I wouldn't see the benefit of removing the existing rear link setup. However...a new front subframe for the SAS portion would be an optimal approach (and one that I've been thinking about myself for a while now). Despite what the R50 is in regards to unibody and suspension, one advantage for an SAS is that the steering, suspension, and drivetrain simply unbolts from the chassis via the existing subframe...clean slate! Nothing to grind, nothing more to remove. The existing strut buckets make for perfect coil, strut, or coilover mounting (I mean, the bucket already serves this purpose, and would not need any new reinforcement), and everything is already cleared for the axle. With subframe removed, you could build a simple frame that boxes in the front radiator support to the existing subframe mounts, and back to the transmission crossmember. Potentially, all bolt on. (It stands to reason if the current subframe bolts already support everything, a replacement frame wouldn't be much different.) A reinforced radiator support provides mounting points for the leafs, and a new crossmember with hangers for the rear spring or rear link mount. You'd also need to add motor mount perches to the new subframe, but with old subframe down, you have the exact measurements you need. Probably the most challenging part will be swapping in a steering gearbox. It would be best incorporate a mounting plate to the new subframe that puts it where the existing pivot gearbox is, but the inner fender area has a structural tube/rib in that area as part of the chassis. It looks like that structural tube is rather square and I wonder if the interior to this is accessible behind the crush cans of the bumper...if so, you could potentially slide in a steel tube with welded nuts to provide the mounting mounts (or through-holes to bolt into the wheel well). Wouldn't surprise me if a Hardbody/Frontier gearbox was compact enough here and shared the same pressure line fitting sizes...and possibly even use the steering shaft from it. If I take an approach like this, I will most likely try to use the OE rear links (at least the lowers) as front links, or any Jeep links. I think the latter are shorter, but there'd be a ton of off-the-shelf options.

I would just buy the Woodward one. All the homework has been done.

Original SFD guys were welding joints from some Honda car model onto the OE link. Not sure what model, could never find those details. You can't just use a spacer...the OE link has a single joint in it, and a second joint becomes required when the distance between the pivot gearbox and steering rack increases.