hawairish

Probably not as much work as you'd think. For these sort of trucks, much of the chassis probably remains untouched, only added to. Of course, for every amount of space they free up inside, they quickly consume. The external fuel tank is probably removed completely, and probably a pair of spare tires back there. Windows were probably just popped out and panels welded in. For overlanding, though, gutting out the rear would be very useful.

Something to be mindful about when buying stuff from AC/4x4parts.com is that you don't know what you're getting. They unbrand everything as sell as if it were their own. The medium duty $160 rear springs they sell are OME MD (p/n 2922) springs. Also keep in mind that load carrying is a function of springs, and load dampening is a function of shocks. If the shocks can't dampen the load, or if the load compresses the springs enough, then the bumpstops also get factored in. My guess is that when you were loaded, the shocks allowed enough jounce to allow the axle to bump the bumpstops...which can also make the bumps feel harsher. Though, with spacers installed, you probably have even more clearance between bumpstop and axle, unless you extended the bumpstops. How are your shocks?

Those are sweet. I like the look with the back windows covered up.

That's awesome! (And unheard of here in the US.) Citron, I think it's just be a big catch can for sand/dirt, where it just settles at the bottom without obstructing the filter (presumably cone shape).

Looks like you made some progress. As you've probably discovered, the ABS tone ring is pressed on. A new double-taper race does come with a new bearing. For that outer bearing cone, you'll either need to put a bearing separator on it (it will damage the grease seal...cheap replacement), or dremel as much/deep of a notch as you can and hammer a chisel into it to crack it open.

Very long story short from a PM reply, 3.13 (47:15) gears exist in the 05-09 R51 V6 2WD (and probably 10-12) as the R200 rear diff w/ IRS, and similar year Frontier D40 and Xterra N40 models (presumably 2WD) that got the C200 straight axle instead of the Dana axles. I only cross-ref'd parts far enough to say the ring and pinion should fit 03-17 350Z/370Z/G35/G37 R200V VLSD diffs based on the same front bearing, rear bearing, spacer, and shims for the pinion, but next step is trying to cross-ref to older 240SX and 300ZX Turbo R200V diffs, since his 96 Skyline assembly appears to share part numbers with. Several other Nissans and Infinitis have used the R200 rear diffs since mid 90s, mainly V6 AWD/RWD cars and V6 SUVs like the R51 and FX35/FX37/QX70, but I suspect only the cars had VLSD options. The V8 models got the R230. I presume all the newer ones use the 6-bolt axle stubs instead of the 5-bolt, and there's probably a change in spline count and shaft diameter. If the 3.13 gears can fit the older housing, I'd imagine it'd work with the older bearings and spacers. On the flip side, since carrier dimensions among C200 and R200 variants were pretty much identical, I'd think the old VLSD carrier would fit the newer R200/R200V housings, but casting from the housing around where the ABS tone rings would probably need to be removed to clear the 5-bolt stubs, and the stub seals would likely have to be used (assuming the outer diameter of the seal hasn't changed). If I'm not mistaken, the chassis mounting pattern on the R200 hasn't changed much over the years, and might be the same as the R230 unless. That would at least give hope that you could get a Z/G VLSD that would bolt onto your chassis, but you'd still need the R51 diff to get the 3.13 or 3.357 (47:14) gears, and work out any differences on the stub shafts or driveshaft flange (that could likely be swapped).

This? https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-seal-oil~40227-31g01.html

What XPLORx4 said. You can get by with dropping the front diff (it's in the way), supporting the engine (Harbor Freight sells this support bar for $60 after 20% off), and lowering the subframe a little bit. I used a 2x4 at the transmission housing to support the engine, but also helps to have a floor or transmission jack to lift everything. You'll need ratchet extensions and some flexibility reaching the nuts atop the mount. Getting at the bottom nuts is trivial.

Whoa...that's some procedure there. The real procedure is far simpler, and just requires you to enter the diagnostic mode first: 1. Open the driver's door and have a seat; leave door open. 2. Turn the ignition to ON (no start). 3. Within 7 seconds, press the door jamb switch 5 times. 4. The airbag light starts to cycle; count the short pulses, multiple codes will be flashed in sequence between 5 second flashes. To reset, just turn the key to OFF, wait at least 1s, then turn key back to ON. Check that the airbag light comes on for a few seconds, then clears. See page RS-22: http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/1998_Pathfinder/rs.pdf I have to do this all the time in my 98 Frontier, so I know it works. The passenger airbag can be disabled (i.e., has a keyed switch, so one of my kids can ride along in front), but the system doesn't seem to like that.

They have a saying for that, you know.

Yep, if you've got a dial switch and not a second shifter, you've got the All-Mode. In that case, you shouldn't need a new shifter, only the console.

That's unfortunate and kind of surprising. Get any pics?

Not sure I follow. Do you mean one of the bearings locked up completely and spun the inner cone on the CV shaft? Don't think I've heard 'spun bearing' outside of crankshaft bearings, but that's a pretty different scenario.

Had to look up the differences, but yeah, perhaps the console and shifter should be all that's necessary...though, is yours either 2WD or All-Mode 4wd? If you're part time 4WD, you'd have to modify the console for the shifter, and I'm not sure if it'd be the same opening sizes.

That's a bummer. I don't think the VQ40's in the Frontiers/Xs got something like that either. Maybe one of those relocation kits is in order. Otherwise, cut a milk container up so that it catches the oil and funnels it out.

Wait...is there an actual leak though? My understanding is that it can come from the oil filter if it's not snugged properly, or when the oil leaks when changing the filter. Is yours really leaking there? Also, don't you 3.3L guys have the little drainage bracket under the filter? I have one on my 3.5L, and it's perfect. Wonder if the filters are in the same-ish position and if the bracket can be used, if it's not there?

Spec. Rave, Take a look at the Theft Warning System section, starting at EL-228, of the FSM: http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/1999_Pathfinder/el.pdf. I'd confirm what part of the system still functions as described on EL-229, then jump down to EL-240 and EL-241 for a troubleshooting workflow and issue matrix. From there, it'll reference any other specific pages for further troubleshooting steps and actions. If it's deemed to be the Smart Entrance Control Unit, check EL-252. Good luck!

Supposing you take the right precautions, you could probably perform the driving pattern test with jack stands under the axle, if its not legally permitted to be on the road.

See EC-49 here: http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/1999_Pathfinder/ec.pdf While you can make-ready the system just by driving around, it's more of a time requirement than distance requirement; you need to satisfy each component with a specific driving pattern. The chart on EC-49 (with notes from EC-50) tells you the driving pattern to follow to tackle all systems in one shot. I recommend printing the pages, using a stopwatch, and having a navigator reading instructions and tracking time. Easy access to a highway or long stretch of uninterrupted road helps for the 53-60MPH segments, and a frontage road with shoulder for the 30-35MPH stop-and-go tests. I've done it a few times in my trucks...you might look a little silly doing it, but it works.

There were different liftgates, but I dont know the year cut-offs.

It's pretty tight on the VQ, too. But hard to say how tough because when I did it on my buddy's truck, we had already begun propping it up for the SFD install. I think I needed to support the engine at least 1" to reach the nut and give clearance for installing the new one. I think it was a combo of socket extensions that did the loosening, and a good old fashioned reach-around from underneath to get the nut back on. We would've like to have changed the passenger side while under there, but were on a time crunch and only 1 of 3 in the entire Phoenix metro was available within 50 miles.

I have the exact same cactus antenna thingy on my exact same color 04 SE! Mine's even missing the hat, too! Did a double-take trying to figure out when I got WA plates and awning.

I bought these from this guy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161990333202. I even paid $9 more than what he's asking now ($20.48). Fits 21mm socket, too, same as stock.

I also know firsthand that you can drive this FJ Cruiser wheel 80 miles, with acorns lugs, on a Saturday evening, in the middle of the desert, to the only tire installer in a 150-mile radius that is still open, has 4 tires in the same size, and that size is >31", after completely destroying two Duratracs within 20 minutes of each other. The offset was about perfect, I might add.

I have current-gen 4Runner 17" on my 98 Frontier 2wd. Same bolt 6x5.5 bolt pattern and 100mm wheel bore as the Pathfinder. Bought 100-106mm hub centric rings, M12x1.25 mag-style lugs, and wheel locks on eBay to make it all work. Backspacing comparisons will vary based on the rim of choice. These ones (17x7) have less backspacing than my stock 16x7, so they stick out a little further. I have a spare wheel in this style if you want any dimensions or comparisons. I plan to put these on the Pathfinder, too, when it's time to replace the tires. TowndawgR50 put a set of Tacoma wheels on his before, I think, but maybe only for mocking up?