hawairish

Nope, mainshaft is the shaft between transmission and rear driveshaft. There's a separate "front drive shaft" with front and rear bearings. I'm not sure you're going to be able to get accurate play measurements unless it's off the truck and fully disassembled, unfortunately.

Nissan has a bolt torque chart in the GI chapter of the FSM, by the way.

I'm sorry...I totally gave you the wrong links and info above! I was looking that the SRS section for something else. Let's try that again... See BR-51 of the Brake section! http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/br.pdf This is the diagnostics to follow to get the ABS codes. You'll need to ground a pin on the OBDII port. Pay attention to the port's orientation and compare to the diagram in the FSM. I overlooked that on my Frontier once (similar process) and it popped a fuse. Simplest answer I can think of is because the ABS computer provides input to the Transfer Control Unit. If the ABS system is having an issue, the 4WD warning light probably means it won't engage 4H when in Auto mode (not sure if it allows it when knob is set to 4H, though). Switching to 4L may disregard the ABS input signal altogether and allow usage, but I'm admittedly not familiar with the all-mode setup and safety/limp modes. However, the Transfer chapter in the FSM should break it down starting at TF-40: http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/tf.pdf I'd personally start diagnosing the ABS system first, as solving that problem will likely solve the 4WD problem. Also, other members have reported some sensitivity to the sensor positioning in the hub. Check for any dirt on the mounting boss that could affect the gap between sensor and tone ring, and for any metal build-up on the sensor. If there's a particular issue with a sensor, the ABS diagnostics should indicate the sensor in question, or any other problems.

Howdy! Since the ABS system is separate from the ECM, you might not be able to pull the codes with most scanners, but you can pull the codes manually. The procedure to enter Diagnostics Mode is as follows: Turn ignition switch “ON”. After “AIR BAG” warning lamp lights for 7 seconds, turn ignition switch “OFF” within 1 second. Wait more than 3 seconds. Repeat steps 1 to 3 three times. Turn ignition switch “ON”. SRS is now in Diagnosis mode. “AIR BAG” warning lamp operates in Diagnosis mode as follows: From there, the ABS light will blink a pattern, which you'll need the Factory Service Manual for. Not sure if yours is "2001" or "2001.5", but check out page RS-49 in the links below. Sections should be fairly identical, but just in case: 2001: http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/2001/rs.pdf 2001.5: http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/rs.pdf Does yours have the part-time (shift lever) or all-mode (shift knob) 4wd system? I'm presuming the latter.

Are those the Febest NAB-332? That design might actually simplify things if you were to add PU. But...being new and with limited movement, hopefully theyll last several years as-is.

Fire and sawzall has been my approach on both my trucks. I also drill a bunch of holes in the rubber to break it up a little to help with the shearing process. Only precaution is try to get the sawzall blade flat on the outer shell to avoid cutting into the bracket. You can often chisel/punch the sleeve out before having to completely cut through the shell, too.

For some FSMs, if you download them all into a single folder and start with the fwd.pdf, you can just click around to get into the section and pages you need. Probably depends on how the FSMs were imported (i.e., scanned from book or from original CDs or other digital imports).

I use a speed controller and carbide-tipped blade, and it's served me well. Wasn't exactly cheap either, so may try to sharpen it up. I need larger chopsaw anyway, but my wallet has been hating me recently.

Sorry, Saturn, time hasn't been on my side since my last post. But, am still working on clean-up. I'm also wanting to wait just a little longer until I can get more of my bumper going so that I can get a better idea on the changes. Progress there has been slow, too, but it's coming together. I should clarify that mine likely won't be a true snorkel by any means, but rather a duct re-route somewhere under the fender. There are some universal flex ducts (and not the stuff for clothes dryers) that I was thinking about, but I've not looking into routing options quite yet. I just need something to replace the wonky pre-airbox-airbox. Not necessarily this, but like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J3JGDM2 I remember seeing this approach and thought it was clever. I'd rather not modify the airbox if I can avoid it, but my goal is less for water intrusion and more for getting rid of that ugly pre-box. It's something I can look into! ... As a small update, things are going slowly. The core bumper is together, still need to tack up the tubes under the channel and do the wings. I toasted my metal-cutting saw blade the other day, so I'm dragging my feet to do the remaining compound cuts I need before I break down and buy either another blade or proper chopsaw. Not sure what it is, but this .120" tube has been exceptionally brutal to both my saw blade and the cut-off wheels I've got, noting that the same blade has cut through .250" steel without issue before. I guess that's a good sign for the bumper, though. Haven't really paused long enough to take more pics than this, unfortunately. But since this pic was taken, I've filled in more welds and smoothed up the tube ends under the fender. Made no progress over the weekend due to being out of town.

Add me to the list. I've got the 9448's coming this week. Received my OME 2928 HDs today, KYB struts and shocks arriving this week. Also got LR3/LR4 sway bar end links; I updated my other post, but I think they're gonna work just fine.

Well, I received the LR3 links today, and I think they're going to do the trick: The angle of the pic doesn't show exactly what I was hoping it would, but length from lower ball center to upper mount (not the stud, but where the upper will rest against the OE bracket) is 10.75" LR3 vs. 7" OE link. The studs are 12mm vs 10mm OE, so you will need to drill out the bracket and sway bar ends to fit them. But if you've gotten this far in terms of rear lift, this is trivial. I drilled mine out to 1/2" long ago when I installed my disconnects, so I'm ready to go. I'll try to install them tonight. Not anticipating any fitment issue, but I will note the top stud is about .25" longer than OE. This particular part is Ultra Power K750334, fitment for 05-09 LR3 and 10-16 LR4 Land Rovers. Paid just under $20 for the pair, before shipping from RockAuto.

The bushings are open as far as I can tell.

I was thinking about that as well. I think it'd be a reasonable approach, but yes, having better rubber to start with might help. But, I think there's also enough void for the poly to encapsulate the rubber entirely, so the quality of the rubber might not have as much impact.

Look at the fwd.pdf for the breakdown.

Yeah, that one might suck. Can probably still drop separately from the bracket pretty easily, just bring down the passenger side first. However, I'm trying to recall if those bottom holes have through-holes on the back. The top mounts don't. It might be tough getting deep enough threads in there with a regular tap. And what's with that hole? Bolt defect...looks too old for a recent drilling.

What side of the diff did the bolt snap on?

Clarifying this. The poly bushings TownDawg is trying in the diff brackets are the Nolathane/Whiteline poly bushings intended for the upper and lower trailing arms. The OE diff bushings and the OE trailing arm bushings are not the same, but have very similar dimensions.

Hopefully the bushings work. They are actually the same poly bushings for the trailing arms. Dimensions are very similar, and the bushings get us very close but there were some dimensions we debated about without having precise specs and preload values from the bushing manufacturer(s). I'm optimistic it'll work, or that we can get it to work with minimal modification. I just use a floor jack under the diff, too, with a little help to support the passenger tube to keep it level. When installing, I'll put a jack stand under the passenger tube and fine tune the diff height until I can get a bolt through the bracket and into the diff. I don't remove the brackets from the truck when dropping the diff, so if you're planning to swap the bushings, just get the diff out first then the brackets.

Thanks for addressing all the questions! This seems to make the most sense at this point, and it's the "under load" part that's key, when small vibrations are locked to the rest of the truck.

No promises, of course. Buying another bumper is somewhat out of the budget, but I'd also need a 96-00 truck to see if what dimensional differences exist for the grille. Since XJ bumpers will mount higher, the bumper would need to protrude forward for the winch to clear the grille. As mentioned earlier, it'd also have to be for a specific aftermarket bumper. TowndawgR50 is going to get me some dimensions from his setup so can assess what would be necessary. Precisely. Everything fits into a flat-rate USPS box.

Can't contribute to the battery questions, noting that a dual battery system is also on my mind. I've installed my MV50 both in the rear cubby and under the hood where the cruise control stuff is on yours, all of which doesn't exist on 03-04 models because of the drive-by-wire setup. Mounting it where I've got it required a bit of modification to the compressor and brackets, and it's a tight fit. Surprisingly, I don't seem to have any pics handy of the setup. I would also advocate finding a way to mount under the chassis. Too loud in the cab, too tight under the hood. I've only had it overheat once, and that was after starting inflation on a 7th tire during the stop (did my 32's and then buddy's 33's). Can't say I've tried in a typical AZ summer day, but for sure haven't had a problem going from 15psi to 34psi with hood closed after the engine is warmed up. Once you're able to do the tire carrier install, that'll free up a ton of space underneath. To defend against the elements, see if you can find an appropriately size Rubbermaid or other plastic container that has a snap-able lid. Then just drill some holes to match the mounting pattern, and some more for air input/output.

I'd suspect that a qualified welder could have the brackets and nut strips welded up under 2 hours, if I'm understanding the question correctly. I probably took twice that because I am far from qualified, which is why nothing is coming pre-welded.

A chance. I've not had a moment to try to rework any files to fix that ghosting problem or make any other adjustments. The steel shop usually has a 3-5 day lead time. That could get them out the door before next weekend if everything goes smoothly. Let me see what I can accomplish this week.

I'm in west Phx, swing on by! I'm just up the 303 a few miles. Disconnecting the upper panhard mount is easier than the bottom, btw. Also, trick is to support the chassis as high as you can safely go...I used to get by with just my jackstands, but with the amount of lift now, it's gotta be jackstands plus some base. It's gonna be interesting when I swap in LR springs and redo the trailing arms...

If you've got a particular cut-off point, I'd love to hear it. Right now, I am decently under the $200 mark, shipped (US only for now). Still crunching the numbers, but price is also dependent on how many I can get in the batch. Thanks man! I plan to have some extras made during the 1st batch, mainly because it drives down the prices for everyone if I can bump up quantities. I'll hold one for ya, just getting a general headcount for now. But yes, I am still building a bumper off these. Gotta demonstrate proof of concept! Meant to start cutting the tubes tonight, but opted to go fly kites with my kids. Priorities, right? One thing I was originally planning to do (I don't think I mentioned it earlier) was to add a 2" receiver tube. Harbor freight sells "step bumper receivers" that I was considering to bolt or weld (or both) to the bottom of the winch channel. These guys...p/n 69673: 3,500lb @ $19 and p/n 69670: 5000lb @ $22: The only catch is that if you use a roller fairlead like I'm using, you'll need some sort of 3/4" spacers between channel bottom and receiver plate to clear the bottom of the fairlead. If using a hawse fairlead...just figure out how you want to attach it and you're good to go! I opted to not go that route because I don't think I'll use it that much (for sure not for recovery since I'll already have 4 attachment points). If I ever get/build a trailer, I'll reconsider it since it would surely simplify maneuvering through my side gate. Yes, the inherent problems from probably worst to "less" worse in my opinion are 1) tight angles, 2) piercing, 3) cutting stops where the plasma cutter is turning off while stationary over a position, 4) small geometries, and 5) redirections, like changing 90° as you can see in the letters. #1 was particularly bad in one of those images, and it's clear the pathing software doesn't account for kerf width (cut diameter) to create a path that won't overlap...but, I only have 3 spots that meet that criteria and I can fix those. The pathing software does, however, start all cuts off the path unless it's just a line. I have an application that can generate tool paths, but it's for my CNC router, which can be set to run inside, outside, or "on" a given path, and the 3-axis that plunges into a path to start. I think with 2-axis CNC processes like plasma cutting, it's just "on" a path. But in regards to that, ti worked out fine. Only thing is that it adds half-kerf to the line...and basically kerf-width to some shapes. The width is relatively small, but not negligible. And the thicker the metal, the larger it'll get. #4 is a tough one. Most of the holes are 9/16" to give reasonable tolerance for a 1/2" bolt. Well, holes were probably closer to 5/8" than 11/16", and also not "perfectly" round, but close. I may put a 1/2" circle on my drawings and let the process add tolerance. There are some 1/4"-diameter semicircles/notches that didn't come out that too nice...but, I don't need them to be as they're just aid with assembly. There's a very good possibility I pick up a CNC plasma cutter in the coming months to save myself a LOT of hassle I've experienced with the industry here, in general. I have way too many pending projects that will rely on a process that's still far from smooth, and I think I can cut out the middleman in that regard.