hawairish

I really meant "eventually". But, they're installed finally, and I think for those in 4"+ lift realm, these are gonna work just fine. I did have some minor difficulties installing them, mainly because the upper mounting bracket is very impractical, and because the length of the stud and size of the joint doesn't give much space between the end of the sway bar and the trailing arm. The upper brackets need to be unbolted from the truck, then attached to the link, then reattached to the truck before connecting the lower end to the sway bar because there's not enough room to rotate the brackets up. But even when done in that order, it's tricky angling the lower stud into the sway bar...you may need to lift the truck a bit for clearance (I installed mine on the ground). I was tempted to cut off the extra stud length, but the end has a hex head used for keeping the joint stationary while tightening the nut. I imagine a boulder will probably bend the studs given my usage, but I suppose I'll chance that over needing to destroy the link if I were to cut the stud off. Right now, the links hang a bit below my trailing arms, which isn't good for my use. I currently have worn OME springs and 2" spacers, with the LR springs lurking in the shadows to hopefully resolve that issue. With that said, if you're not running close to 4" of rear lift, the joints may exposed to trail carnage. It's also worth nothing that both of my control arms are bent, which also exposes them a little more. That'll get addressed soon. Lastly...if anyone is interested in my disconnects, let me know!

I'm long overdue on a reply here! Unfortunately, I haven't been able to touch this project for several weeks due to all sorts of stuff, but this week is looking a little promising. Right now, I'm about 85% done with the bumper: I've been driving it around like this for a while, and well...it hasn't rattled off the truck, so I must be doing something right. What remains are mounting the winch solenoid box somewhere, and putting some sort of coating on. The former issue has been a pain...the control box is somewhat large and obnoxious, so I'll likely end up using my CNC router to create a mounting plate from 1/4" ABS sheet and mounting the box vertically in front of the radiator behind the grille, plus some other re-wiring to relocate the remote control plug. More work than I was hoping to do, but whatever. For the latter, I'm leaning towards using Monstaliner and one of their tintable kits, probably just their dark gray (not a fan of black). I'd love to go with an orange color (for bumper, sliders, tire carrier, and rear bumper when done), but I'm not really flashy like that...and there's a small premium on most colors. Of course, that 85% excludes a bunch of other smaller tasks, like blacking out the washer fluid reservoir and deleting the pre-airbox squid. I'm also trying to figure out lighting; might just go with 4 cheapo LED pods inside the angular openings. I've not welded up the skids, but I did make the necessary bends: I achieved my goal of making this a slide-on/off process. Just loosen the six bolts (4 under the radiator support and 2 under the crossmember) maybe 3/4" and slide forward. I may actually weld the two skids together, though that wasn't the original plan, but it'll work fine like that. Reason for wanting two pieces was to have 3/8" of steel plate under the support. With my existing mid-skid plate, I've also got additional layers under the cross member. I may also add some side wings for a little extra covering of. The ribs on the backside of the plate might be a little too close to the sway bar on articulation, but I may just test it out as originally planned. It may only make contact if my front end bottoms out, but when I replace my current OME MDs with HDs soon, that'll rotate the bar upward for more clearance. I can move the skids forward a little to add some clearance, too. .... I've been really slow on making progress towards getting the next set of brackets cut up, for several reasons. But, I've not lost sight of the project. My main concern is seeing a real-world application (mine) and making any corrections or improvements. The other thing is still avoid a repeat of the file snafus from the first set...too much rework on files. I intend to re-CAD my original drawings in another application, and that's just a matter of time becoming familiar with the application. The same application will be use when I get my CNC plasma table...oh yeah, I hinted at it previously, but it's official: I bought a CNC plasma table. I won't see it until June, though, and I'll need all the time until then to get a plasma cutter, air compressor, and electrical drops in the garage. I would like to have the 2nd set of brackets cut by the local shop still, just to not stall getting these out there. There will be a v2 design with the following changes, and I'm open to questions, concerns, and suggestions: Shackle mount depth: the shackle hole will move forward and protrude beyond the face of the bumper. I like the recessed location in general, but it presented some issues when trying to avoid blocking access. Hi-lift flat: one thing I wish I had incorporated was a simple flat spot for the tongue of a Hi-Lift to fit under. This might not be useful for all builds, but would be easy to incorporate. Shackle mount width and/or orientation: The current width is 1-1/8" (3x 3/8"), ideal for a 3/4" shackle. I don't want to change the width, per se, but the layered approach (pieces on each side of the main bracket) created some limitations when determining how to mount the bumper to the brackets. I may reduce the layer to two, giving 3/4" (2x 3/8") of shackle width, which actually seems pretty standard on other bumpers. Fewer attachment plates: the current design uses 3 separate plates for attaching a bumper face to the main brackets. I found this to be a pain, in terms of aligning everything and accounting for metal twisting from welding. The next design will have two plates (one per bracket) only. I will probably have a separate set of places specifically for creating a receiver tube attachment. General main bracket: couple small changes here and there regarding cuts, shape, etc. Hopefully more to follow this week...

Just curious, and sorry if I've missed the answers already... 1. When you used the key on the rear lock, did you turn the key twice? On mine, if the doors are unlocked, the first turn locks the truck, the second turn pops the glass. 2. Did older R50s not have the switch on the driver's door or a switch on the dash? I think I remember reading this once. So you were able to pull the release solenoid and switch from another R50 that had them, and it all bolted up?

You asked about this a year ago: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43073-shifter-locking-up-at-times-in-park-on-my-04/ Check the solenoid and switch I mentioned in my post.

Locked center diff is usually more commonly heard when talking AWD vehicles that can lock driveshaft output to 50/50, in addition to variable front/rear output depending on traction conditions. Here, he just means when the transfer case is engaged in 4H/4L....output is locked to both driveshafts 1:1.

Nope, mainshaft is the shaft between transmission and rear driveshaft. There's a separate "front drive shaft" with front and rear bearings. I'm not sure you're going to be able to get accurate play measurements unless it's off the truck and fully disassembled, unfortunately.

Nissan has a bolt torque chart in the GI chapter of the FSM, by the way.

I'm sorry...I totally gave you the wrong links and info above! I was looking that the SRS section for something else. Let's try that again... See BR-51 of the Brake section! http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/br.pdf This is the diagnostics to follow to get the ABS codes. You'll need to ground a pin on the OBDII port. Pay attention to the port's orientation and compare to the diagram in the FSM. I overlooked that on my Frontier once (similar process) and it popped a fuse. Simplest answer I can think of is because the ABS computer provides input to the Transfer Control Unit. If the ABS system is having an issue, the 4WD warning light probably means it won't engage 4H when in Auto mode (not sure if it allows it when knob is set to 4H, though). Switching to 4L may disregard the ABS input signal altogether and allow usage, but I'm admittedly not familiar with the all-mode setup and safety/limp modes. However, the Transfer chapter in the FSM should break it down starting at TF-40: http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/tf.pdf I'd personally start diagnosing the ABS system first, as solving that problem will likely solve the 4WD problem. Also, other members have reported some sensitivity to the sensor positioning in the hub. Check for any dirt on the mounting boss that could affect the gap between sensor and tone ring, and for any metal build-up on the sensor. If there's a particular issue with a sensor, the ABS diagnostics should indicate the sensor in question, or any other problems.

Howdy! Since the ABS system is separate from the ECM, you might not be able to pull the codes with most scanners, but you can pull the codes manually. The procedure to enter Diagnostics Mode is as follows: Turn ignition switch “ON”. After “AIR BAG” warning lamp lights for 7 seconds, turn ignition switch “OFF” within 1 second. Wait more than 3 seconds. Repeat steps 1 to 3 three times. Turn ignition switch “ON”. SRS is now in Diagnosis mode. “AIR BAG” warning lamp operates in Diagnosis mode as follows: From there, the ABS light will blink a pattern, which you'll need the Factory Service Manual for. Not sure if yours is "2001" or "2001.5", but check out page RS-49 in the links below. Sections should be fairly identical, but just in case: 2001: http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/2001/rs.pdf 2001.5: http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/rs.pdf Does yours have the part-time (shift lever) or all-mode (shift knob) 4wd system? I'm presuming the latter.

Are those the Febest NAB-332? That design might actually simplify things if you were to add PU. But...being new and with limited movement, hopefully theyll last several years as-is.

Fire and sawzall has been my approach on both my trucks. I also drill a bunch of holes in the rubber to break it up a little to help with the shearing process. Only precaution is try to get the sawzall blade flat on the outer shell to avoid cutting into the bracket. You can often chisel/punch the sleeve out before having to completely cut through the shell, too.

For some FSMs, if you download them all into a single folder and start with the fwd.pdf, you can just click around to get into the section and pages you need. Probably depends on how the FSMs were imported (i.e., scanned from book or from original CDs or other digital imports).

I use a speed controller and carbide-tipped blade, and it's served me well. Wasn't exactly cheap either, so may try to sharpen it up. I need larger chopsaw anyway, but my wallet has been hating me recently.

Sorry, Saturn, time hasn't been on my side since my last post. But, am still working on clean-up. I'm also wanting to wait just a little longer until I can get more of my bumper going so that I can get a better idea on the changes. Progress there has been slow, too, but it's coming together. I should clarify that mine likely won't be a true snorkel by any means, but rather a duct re-route somewhere under the fender. There are some universal flex ducts (and not the stuff for clothes dryers) that I was thinking about, but I've not looking into routing options quite yet. I just need something to replace the wonky pre-airbox-airbox. Not necessarily this, but like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J3JGDM2 I remember seeing this approach and thought it was clever. I'd rather not modify the airbox if I can avoid it, but my goal is less for water intrusion and more for getting rid of that ugly pre-box. It's something I can look into! ... As a small update, things are going slowly. The core bumper is together, still need to tack up the tubes under the channel and do the wings. I toasted my metal-cutting saw blade the other day, so I'm dragging my feet to do the remaining compound cuts I need before I break down and buy either another blade or proper chopsaw. Not sure what it is, but this .120" tube has been exceptionally brutal to both my saw blade and the cut-off wheels I've got, noting that the same blade has cut through .250" steel without issue before. I guess that's a good sign for the bumper, though. Haven't really paused long enough to take more pics than this, unfortunately. But since this pic was taken, I've filled in more welds and smoothed up the tube ends under the fender. Made no progress over the weekend due to being out of town.

Add me to the list. I've got the 9448's coming this week. Received my OME 2928 HDs today, KYB struts and shocks arriving this week. Also got LR3/LR4 sway bar end links; I updated my other post, but I think they're gonna work just fine.

Well, I received the LR3 links today, and I think they're going to do the trick: The angle of the pic doesn't show exactly what I was hoping it would, but length from lower ball center to upper mount (not the stud, but where the upper will rest against the OE bracket) is 10.75" LR3 vs. 7" OE link. The studs are 12mm vs 10mm OE, so you will need to drill out the bracket and sway bar ends to fit them. But if you've gotten this far in terms of rear lift, this is trivial. I drilled mine out to 1/2" long ago when I installed my disconnects, so I'm ready to go. I'll try to install them tonight. Not anticipating any fitment issue, but I will note the top stud is about .25" longer than OE. This particular part is Ultra Power K750334, fitment for 05-09 LR3 and 10-16 LR4 Land Rovers. Paid just under $20 for the pair, before shipping from RockAuto.

The bushings are open as far as I can tell.

I was thinking about that as well. I think it'd be a reasonable approach, but yes, having better rubber to start with might help. But, I think there's also enough void for the poly to encapsulate the rubber entirely, so the quality of the rubber might not have as much impact.

Look at the fwd.pdf for the breakdown.

Yeah, that one might suck. Can probably still drop separately from the bracket pretty easily, just bring down the passenger side first. However, I'm trying to recall if those bottom holes have through-holes on the back. The top mounts don't. It might be tough getting deep enough threads in there with a regular tap. And what's with that hole? Bolt defect...looks too old for a recent drilling.

What side of the diff did the bolt snap on?

Clarifying this. The poly bushings TownDawg is trying in the diff brackets are the Nolathane/Whiteline poly bushings intended for the upper and lower trailing arms. The OE diff bushings and the OE trailing arm bushings are not the same, but have very similar dimensions.

Hopefully the bushings work. They are actually the same poly bushings for the trailing arms. Dimensions are very similar, and the bushings get us very close but there were some dimensions we debated about without having precise specs and preload values from the bushing manufacturer(s). I'm optimistic it'll work, or that we can get it to work with minimal modification. I just use a floor jack under the diff, too, with a little help to support the passenger tube to keep it level. When installing, I'll put a jack stand under the passenger tube and fine tune the diff height until I can get a bolt through the bracket and into the diff. I don't remove the brackets from the truck when dropping the diff, so if you're planning to swap the bushings, just get the diff out first then the brackets.

Thanks for addressing all the questions! This seems to make the most sense at this point, and it's the "under load" part that's key, when small vibrations are locked to the rest of the truck.

No promises, of course. Buying another bumper is somewhat out of the budget, but I'd also need a 96-00 truck to see if what dimensional differences exist for the grille. Since XJ bumpers will mount higher, the bumper would need to protrude forward for the winch to clear the grille. As mentioned earlier, it'd also have to be for a specific aftermarket bumper. TowndawgR50 is going to get me some dimensions from his setup so can assess what would be necessary. Precisely. Everything fits into a flat-rate USPS box.