hawairish

Man @RainGoat, I wish I was getting 15 mpg. I took my lawnmower can with me over the weekend (it's such a POS, too) and got somewhat close to needing it. But then again, I was pushing my tank to the distance, noting that my idiot light comes on with about 5 gallons left (but presumably less). Aussies have had two extended fuel tank options that I'm aware of. One is the Long Ranger, which was a 95L (25gal) that installed where the undermount spare tire is. Not sure if ARB partnered with or acquired LR, but that's what ARB sells. The other was from Brown Davis, which was a 125L (33gal) tank replacement. My buddy was looking to import some years ago, and they were not cheap ($1K sounds about right), all things considered. After thinking about my own refueling in needs, I really like the idea of a small aux cell where the spare tire was. I might mock up some dimensions and request a quote from Boyd Welding (http://www.boydwelding.com/) who seem to have the process down, though I'd expect a custom job to be around $500-$600. Some time ago, I saw a rather clever roof-rack setup that was comprised of a marine-grade under-seat fuel tank and an external fuel pump; I'll have to find my bookmark for it. After spending maybe 10 minutes trying to refill my tank with the unused fuel, and a sore thumb holding some stupid EPA-compliant spout open, a gravity- or pump-assisted system seems like the way to go.

While I share Inyourface1650's enthusiasm to some degree, mjotrainbrain is correct. Per the Owner's Manual, only the RH/pass side is "rated" for towing, while the LH is for tie-down use only. Now, at least on my truck, both left and right tow points are almost identical in shape and mounting (same number of bolts per side), so I don't know why one side would be inherently weaker than the other, though I think I've seen some older models have 4 bolts on the RH side and only 3 on the LH (mine is 3 per side). I think both points would be fine for static pulls (winch, tow strap), but I'd be cautious about using dynamic pulls (kinetic, snatch, recovery straps, etc.) on them. The hooks themselves are fine. The radiator crossmember is boxed in to resist pushing/impact (though, I'll disagree on the part about the area taking the bumper load...the bumper brackets are flimsy and designed to collapse, and are mounted to a flimsy area well above the tow points), but it's the nuts welded to thin sheet metal that are weakest links. Ask @TowndawgR50; they can shift on a recovery pull. "Recovery" can refer to static and dynamic pulls. There's obviously some situational awareness for recovery efforts, but personally I'd limit their usage to only slow static pulls.

Hey Nik, Welcome to the forums. I have a few outlier presumptions: ATF fluid filled to the fill hole level All the tires are matching in brand, size, and similar tread life No other dash lights, such as ABS It doesn't have manual wheel hubs (it's a pretty common upgrade, though not normally done on the all-mode trucks) 2wd hasn't worked since you've gotten it (did it come with this issue?) It does seem more mechanical than electrical if the indicators show it as being in 2wd and no other faults. Like onespiritbrain, I'd think the turning and driving would force it loose. You could try to eliminate a mechanical issue from an electrical one by putting the truck in 2wd for a little bit, do some circles, then park and shut the truck off. Then, lift a tire off the ground and give it a spin—if the driveshaft spins freely, then at least you'd know if the transfer motor and clutches were capable of releasing to be in 2wd. If it remains engaged, would seem mechanical to me.

Nice! Your old front locker is alive and well, btw.

I’m in between the Harbor Freight bediner and Monstaliner. I don’t think they’re in the same class, but it’s come down to budget (HF) vs. wanting to get something not in black (ML). If I can find Herculiner in gray for a reasonable price, I might go that route. Regardless of the flavor, I’m planning to use a schutz/undercoating spray gun to apply it, since rolling it on won’t be an option with all the crevices. Not sure what my primer options will be quite yet.

I know! Still have some other metal-work to do on things, then I’ll take everything off and coat it. Though, rust could make for a nice patina...

If you’re replacing OE bushings with OE-style replacements, just buy new links. Only go through the process of cutting them out if you’re replacing them with poly bushings, and go for the 2-piece bushings for a little more simplicity.

My air compressor was installed in the cubby at some point and I had a server fan run when the compressor was on, and a thermal switch to keep it running after the compressor was off. There’s no fan there at the moment, though.

So I bought this fridge on Amazon the other week for $390. It's the same item as the $700 Smittybilt Arctic Fridge, but surprisingly with much better reviews. I put it through some extended runs and a few food trips, and it's been really good so far. Gets down to temps quickly, seems well built, but we'll see how it's maiden real trip goes this weekend. I started making some modifications to the cargo rack to accommodate it... ...but I was sorely disappointed when I discovered that the liftgate won't clear the fridge. Contact point is the lift strut bracket. Sucks because I already had the rack out of the truck and presumed it would clear given that the top of the fridge didn't exceed the top of the rack. Perhaps it would fit if I didn't use the rail I had just made for it and slid it over the inch or so, or maybe if I remove the strut and bracket and just not use the glass, but it's pretty close to the glass and I don't feel like chancing it. Time was really short this weekend and couldn't troubleshoot further, so I abandoned this project and moved on. I'll still be able to take the fridge on my trip, but it'll have to sit on one of the seats folded down. I'm already considering a v2 of this project that would lower that shelf to the same as the lower shelf (might have to raise it a little to clear the passenger wheel well hump), which would allow it to clear. Since I still needed a constant 12V socket, I got this part of the electrical done:

Well, it's as done as it's gonna get before my CANVAZ trip this weekend. I will eventually put some plate up top and some additional brackets under the quarter panel for support. I've been pretty pleased with the cuts. My AZ flag apparently had some hidden lines that got cut, but I went with it. Cheapo MicTuning lights off Amazon are wired to the reverse lights...and make the OE bulbs look like garbage. I also made a new missing link and mid skid... Super pleased with the results. It slides on/off just like the front skid, and now all the hardware is matched for a single socket. ... I know this thread started off for front bumper brackets, but I've come a lot farther than expected. I'm still planning to go through with the front brackets for those interested, but still need another week or so to finalize a few things and put some numbers to things. I'm absolutely exploring options to make skids and missing link available, too. Stay tuned!

Even with a press, it’s a hassle because you need a very specific die size and the tube doesn’t have much meat to it either. Just getting the things in a vise can be a pain. I drill a bunch of holes in the rubber, enough to weaken the connection to the inner sleeve. Then wood dowel or other drift and sledge to pop the inner sleeve out. Then reciprocating saw to surgically cut a slit in outer sleeve. Finally, hammer and punch on the edge of the sleeve to push it through. It’s a crappy job no matter how you dice it, but after you do the first, the rest are cake.

All custom. Pepsi had a lot of things done. For the work required to make a long-travel IFS, it'd probably be more cost effective to just SAS it... But...here's how I'd do it: 1) Use a 1st Gen Frontier/X CV shaft...I think it's the same flange bolt pattern, same spline count, and about 1" longer. 2) Custom LCA. Rear bushing mount would be replaced by one that allows for a bolt-through bushing or other joint (not that pin/tail style ours has). Move the spindle out 1" or more (CV + flange spacer) 3) Custom shock and UCA hanger/bracket that bolts between strut tower and both subframe points. May require cutting into wheel well above unibody primary support tube (no clue what they call it) to recess the UCA mounts. 4) Stock or aftermarket UCAs from a Frontier/X or Tacoma, possibly even W/D21. Former trucks have a lot of options; latter trucks have the UCA crosspin that might simplify mounting UCAs. Otherwise, custom UCA 5) If using Nissan parts, I'd probably just bring the spindle over from the truck. Will still be able to use manual hubs. There are some similarities for steering parts. Otherwise, custom adapter for the strut knuckle to use a uniball or Johnny joint instead of a balljoint. Obviously, lots of variability depending on budget and course of action, though this is more or less converting the strut to double-wishbone suspension. It doesn't afford a whole lot of additional travel, but better than OE. Definitely not for any high-speed action if using many OE parts. Here's where I say something like, "Man, Nissan sure made the Pathfinder a bastard," knowing that all those 2nd Gen Frontier/X guys basically have a kit just by swapping over some parts from a Titan. We share nothing with the other Nissans...hence, all custom.

Appreciated! I think that's the catch about most off-road bumpers...you never really know how it's going to handle unless you accounted for a specific purpose (like big 'ol deer guards on semi trucks...a very singular purpose). Tube, plate, and formed steel construction have very different characteristics, too. Plate is surely the best impact wise because of its hard angles and fully-welded/bent seams, but as such will also weigh more. You can reduce weight with thinner steel, but then other reinforcements are needed. ARB uses 3mm steel (just under 1/8"), but still comes in close to 90-100 lbs for the R50 bumper, and it's still quite big. Dustin's bumper (the other current thread) turned out great; it's a beast of a bumper. I'd estimate the weight of my setup is probably half that, though. I would have liked to have gone plate, but when I started doing the front bumper, it boiled down to what was feasible in the garage; I didn't have a way to cut plate or make long cuts (to be honest, I really didn't even know how plasma cutters worked until this year!), nor a way to bend round tube. I had a chopsaw and protractor (and I hate dealing with angles). I think it's turned out well for what it is, and it's definitely been a learning experience.

Time to replace them. It generally requires getting the chassis and axle on jack stands, removing the shocks, and using a floor jack to lower one side of the axle at a time to let the spring extend. Or, use spring compressors. These are OE replacements at 50% the cost of OE: http://www.amazon.com/Febest-Nissan-Bumper-Spring-55240-0W010/dp/B00C6MTQIW

Thanks. I guess that's a good point as far as a step goes, though I usually find myself standing on the tires instead, since it's a bit of a reach. That's one downfall of using tubes...getting all the angles is a pain. With plate, much easier of a problem to deal with. To be fair (does anybody watch Letterkenny?), these weren't built for impact; they were built for clearance, so concessions regarding coverage and strength are being made deliberately. My wheeling trips were literally ripping my OE bumpers off every time, so you could say these are built for less contact. By contrast, ARBs are designed more for impact and less for clearance. I think mine would sustain direct impact well given their coverage, and they offer significantly more strength and coverage than the OE bumpers, but it's just not what they were designed for. The only regular road hazards we have here are skinny coyotes, fat rabbits, and stupid quails...none of which will ruin my day when struck. Will these hold up to bumping into, or dropping onto, immovable boulders? Yes, I think they'll do fine there. But at least for the front bumper, the shape and angles will be more apt to cut into something instead of distributing impact like a plate bumper can. So no, I don't think it'd fair well against a deer unless it was a dead center where the most steel (tube, winch channel, brackets) is present. The rear bumper...I really don't have much concern about it; it'll be reasonably stout when done.

Still pecking away at it... In hindsight, I wouldn't have made the corners stick so far back, and maybe not so low either. Still to-dos are finishing the other insert panels (waiting on the lights tonight to confirm the mounting pattern), and put some plate on top to get some flat surfaces. Right now it comes in at 62 lbs. It'll probably be able 75-80 when done. On a side note, I started sketching up a plate version of this with some wild dream about producing a DIY kit. Still a lot of clean-up to do on that idea.

Low. Ride. Der. Yeah, that kind of mileage will do that!

Thanks Kent! Yeah, it's ridiculous how catastrophic something like that really is, especially when you've pampered a vehicle. It's more ridiculous that Nissan didn't own up to it. As for the IACV/ECU issue, wish I could say I've seen a good, definitive post anywhere. Most of what I've seen is on the NICO Forums...this is probably one of the better starting points: http://forums.nicoclub.com/advice-please-ecm-repair-warranted-t613891.html. Much of the discussions have been chicken-vs-egg discussion...i.e., did the ECU fry the IACV, or did the IACV fry the ECU? The issue wasn't unique to the VQ35, either (I believe it was common on VG30 in some of the cars, like Maxima and I30), but I think the primary reason we didn't see it in the 03-04 is because of the drive-by-wire system. The issue is still rather foreign to me, but my (general) understanding is that a seal or gasket on the IACV body or housing fails and exposes coolant to the solenoid, which shorts it and also eventually takes out the ECU (perhaps an impedance issue, dunno, but doesn't read like it's an immediate failure). If you fix the IACV problem without fixing the ECU, the ECU can then short out the IACV...not sure how plausible that one is, but it's out there. It reads like some guys have lucked out with only IACV failures, but others replace the IACV without knowing the ECU is bad.

Technically speaking, yes, but are you determining the 2" sag using specs from the FSM? I'd be surprised if you weren't bottoming-out on the strut bumpstops over bumps, assuming they're installed.

OME MD springs yield about 1.5". There used to be light-duty ones, but I don't think they're available any more.

I think that if we're talking any amount of lift, I'd advocate springs over spacers any day like TowndawgR50. Static spacers are convenient if you really want to keep stock ride characteristics, but with limited options even available, you have to disassemble the entire strut anyway to install them. If you're going to go that far, springs are the way to go...better handling, better load support. Spacers have their place for us, but springs will make more of a difference for only a little more cost.

No sweat, and I hear ya. I’ve had to drive that pattern more times than I care to admit to resolve an oh-crap-I’m-due-for-emissions situation.

Ha, I can be pretty wordy sometimes... Definitely consider your use for the truck. Even if you only occasionally find yourself on a trail, a moderate amount of lift from spacers or lift springs goes a long way. It's worth noting that one of our members have taken the Rubicon Trail in his with 2" of lift, 32" tires, and lockers (perhaps some more goodies, but that was the core). I've been wheeling with a local Nissan Xterra group for a couple years now, and with 32", 3" of lift, and lockers, I'd outdo them all the time despite having the smallest tires, lowest ground clearance, and basically smallest vehicle among 33"-35" tires, 4"-6" lifted Frontiers and Xterras. A lot of the guys thought my truck was stock. Rolling with them, I've seen bent tie rods, cracked coil spring buckets, busted CVs, busted ball joints...on their trucks. Only issues I've ever had, knock on wood, are two blowouts from some lousy Duratracs. The thing about the LSD is that it's better than an open diff, even when worn. If you can get it, do so. Also, Lokka makes a front lunchbox locker for very reasonable price and is a great option. I ran one in mine for a while before going to air; @TowndawgR50 is carrying its legacy. Lokka + LSD is a great combo. Yes, the RE4R01A AT in the VQ R50s were built to handle the added power from the 3.5L. Details here: Pre-MY05 trucks had the RE4R01A transmission, too, just not all to HD specs. Regarding bellhousings, the pattern on the block I believe is very similar, perhaps identical, but the lower block/pan appears to differs because of the starter location. On FX35 and 350Z/G35 VQs, I think I've seen two openings that resemble starter holes, one on each side of the engine, though I don't know why there are two holes. But for sure, that would suggest different belhousings. It's probably a moot discussion, but even if another VQ 5MT/6MT could match up, you'd not be able to get it mate with any of our t-cases. One issue is RWD cars vs 4WD truck. I'd guess that the bellhousing from a VQ40 truck would be a much closer match than one from a AWD/RWD VQ35 car/SUV, but all the MY05+ trucks have the all-mode transfer cases; part-time cases weren't an option. Performance-wise, damn near nothing. K&N cold air intake, that's about it! No cat-back exhausts, not even an ECU tuner (don't be fooled by the JET V-Force Plus unit...it's a highly glorified OBDII reader, at best). I think I've compared the header bolt pattern at some point, and I think our flange pattern is just mirrored from other VQ35/VQ40 options, but I want to say the block is pre-drilled for the other stud positions. So there's maybe hope there, but downstream from that...all custom. On the bright side, think of all the money you'll save by not trying to soup-up the performance!

The LSDs are clutch-based, but Nissan tapered the numbers as the model years progressed. These are the numbers I compiled from Factory Service Manuals when I was rebuilding them: At least for the rear diff (model H233B), there are no other LSD options, only three lockers. I rebuilt some using new OE parts a few years ago, but I was told I depleted the supply on some of the thicker discs and plates. However, buying a junkyard LSD from any of the above trucks will yield extra pieces to rebuild; although the parts will show some wear, it's the thickness of the pieces that'll matter here. I've been able to build them up to about 160-180 ft-lbs and that has performed well for off-roading, combined with a front mechanical locker. I've still got a spare LSD at 165 ft-lbs; rebuilt it from the parts I had, but never re-installed it because it was replaced by a locker. That's how I'd go with the 5MT: start there, and hold out until you find it. Personally, I've always been a stick guy; this truck is my first AT. I've appreciated it to some degree, but I wouldn't mind an MT again. So, hopefully this won't detract you from looking to buy an R50, but I've always termed the truck as being Nissan's redheaded stepchild, or otherwise bastard truck. I've named it so because it's very different from anything that it should be similar to. Much of the drivetrain is very similar to 89-04 Hardbody, WD21 Pathfinder, Frontier, and Xterra models, but not the same. The front diff (model R200A), for example, is unlike every R200A that ever existed on those trucks—ours is high-pinion/reverse cut, everything else low-pinion/standard cut. As such, we only have OE gearing options (4.363 or 4.636). The rear axle, fortunately, is basically the same as those trucks, and there's a lot of interchangeability (I run disc brakes from a WD21, for example). Transmission is actually of heavier duty than the others, except late Xterra, I believe. Same transfer cases (excluding the all-mode version, which wasn't used elsewhere). Suspension is totally different. VQ never appeared in any other truck until the stroked VQ40 showed up in MY05 Frontier, Xterra, and Pathfinder...and even that is a very different engine. There are some parts overlaps among VQ35's, but Nissan made a lot of subtle changes on them. Kings of the spare parts indeed! Starter placement, oil filter location, even all the intake plenums were basically unique by model. You don't have the overlap that existed for older Nissan car models. But at the same time, I'll acknowledge that I've seen very little in the way of engine performance mods on the R50 done by owners...it would likely be a heavy investment of time and money to research, as no one specifically lists the R50 as an application for performance parts. No headers, no cams, no turbo kits, nada. Fortunately, the data is there via the FSMs as a starting point to at least see if, dimensionally, parts might work. I use RockAuto for a LOT of parts cross-references, and of course Google image searches (I find that eBay listings for engines also have lots of pics). Parts.nissanusa.com and nissanpartsdeal.com also help greatly for parts cross-refs. That all said...the R50 is a great truck if you can get over how different it is from other Nissans, and can deal with basically no aftermarket support. The bastard qualities, in my opinion, are what make it perhaps the best truck Nissan has produced, including 05-18 trucks. Outside of the PV issues, the VQ35 had far more power and torque than any VG that was offered (including the supercharged one found in Frontiers and Xterras), and far less problems than the VQ40. High-pinion front diffs are better for off-road. Heavy duty transmission, standard. 5-link rear suspension. While I hate having McPherson struts up front, let's face it: the truck handles like a car and you'll come to appreciate that. The drivetrain is far more stouter than anything 05-18, including Titans (but maybe excluding the new Titan XD). The unibody has offered no less rigidity or flexibility than a framed truck. Better looking interior. Sorry for the long post, and perhaps my final recommendation: I'd look for 01-02 models. Outside the IACV/ECU issues and PV issues, which can be addressed by preventative maintenance, the other notable is that they were drive-by-cable; 03-04 was drive-by-wire...more sensors, more limp mode, more expensive throttle body. I also think you'll have more hope finding your 5MT in the earlier range.

You can get the FSM here: http://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html Specifically, check out this table on page EC-40 and the description on EC-41 here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1997_Pathfinder/ec.pdf If you look at the bottom of the table, it'll chart the engine state, speed, and duration to satisfy each test, if you were to do them all in one drive. Any time I've needed to 100% set readiness on my truck (particularly in my 98 Frontier, and not so much my Pathfinder), I've followed this full chart using a stopwatch/timer, open freeway, and some side roads (particularly for the 0-35-0mph tests). You'll see that the EVAP and EGR tests appear in Pattern 3, which requires the test I just mentioned. Usually it's addressed by simple stop-go driving, but I follow that one pretty closely (10s stopped, 10s accelerating to 30-35, 20s cruise at 30-35, decelerate to stop, repeat a few times). Also note the 53-60 mph range for Patterns 2 and 4...I've always found this to be the toughest test because I don't have many roads with 55-60 speed limits...65-75 here. I end up doing this at night on the freeway, driving (legally) below the speed limit in the right lane. Again, you can just do the parts you need to, but between the items you mentioned, looks like they could cover all 4 patterns.