hawairish

Thanks @RedPath88, I definitely appreciate that reply. And yeah, B's inbox was always full. No doubt the inboxes get cluttered quickly. We'll definitely follow-up in the near future once @TowndawgR50 and I firm things up. Work in progress!

Not a complaint, just an observation, but most of the admins and mods aren't frequent visitors to the forum these days. It's fully understood that vehicles, interests, and life change, so I don't have expectations that they'll always be online (I miss me some @Precise1 quips, though). Our trucks aren't exactly new, either. However, I've had a few questions lately that don't warrant public posts like this, but my PMs to current admins and mods have gone unanswered. Definitely not a knock on the current staff, but would it be beneficial to cycle in some new moderators? There are several active members with proven interest and knowledge that would make great moderators. (And no, this isn't a pitch for me; not interested.) For starters, it might be nice to see some renewed interest in checking for pin-worthy topics (i.e., Land Rover springs), cleaning out or condensing old pins, moving build threads to the Member's Rides section, etc. This is hands-down the best forum community I've been a part of. For the few years I've been around, is has also been very self-moderating. I've read some old posts and know this wasn't always the case. At the same time, sometimes it's nice to know (or believe) the forum isn't completely hands-off. I don't find the NPORA FB group a suitable replacement (noting that it's not directly affiliated with the forum, just a shared name and a lot of member overlap). My original reason for this post is because @TowndawgR50 and I had some questions about qualifications for Vendor status here. We wanted to hold off on our recent announcement until we were able to discuss things with the admin team, but could no longer wait for a response. @RedPath88, I believe you're the best person to talk to about this (and sorry to call you out directly here), but your inbox is full and the Hangouts invite I sent has not been accepted. We'd still like to chat about it if you've got the time.

I think much of what I replied to on your original light bar thread applies here to some degree. For this particular thread, I might also make the following suggestions: In regards to wire gauge, start with Power = Volts x Amps, or P=VA. Figure out amp draw first (A = P/V), then you can use a variety of wire gauge charts. Wire gauge, part 2: the length of wire matters, too. BTW, I don't recommend those pod lights for that application: too much amp draw for the application, blinding light, very bulky, heat generation, limited space. At 140W, they'd warrant 10AWG (max 15A) because of the 10A-12A draw (140W/14V = 10A, 140W/12V = 11.7A), exceeding 12AWG (9.3A max), but because they'd need about 20' of wire, you might even consider 8AWG...a bit heavy duty for the application, though. Having installed flush mount lights under my liftgate (see below), there's not much room to work with unless you're willing to cut metal. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of low profile flush mount LED options out there. The adhesive LEDs aren't aesthetically appealing, but are great functionally. Plan on separating your power needs to front vs. back, if you haven't already. That way, you can run dedicated leads to each area with a thicker gauge wire, then distribute power on thinner gauge wires. This will spare you a lot of headache routing wires. The cheap USB/Voltmeter/Socket combos that you can find everywhere on Amazon and eBay are great, inexpensive ways to add those items anywhere. All they need are two wires (and can be daisy-chained in most scenarios) and a 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" bit. And there are tons of options available. Consider your circuit demands when thinking about relays and switches, as one or both might not be necessary. Generally speaking: You really only need a relay if the max amp draw on the circuit will exceed the max amp rating of the switch, or if you want the circuit to energize in the ACC/ON positions. A switch, of course, is only if you want/need manual control. If worried about draining your battery, you're better off using a relay and ACC/ON lead. Otherwise, a switch doesn't really offer much practicality unless there's some need (including general safety) to disable all or part of the circuit. Having it control a light makes perfect sense, of course. ... I've done a few projects in my truck that might align with what you're wanting. Though only an option if you switch to a single-DIN headunit, I bought a factory radio-delete panel and mounted components to it. Voltmeter, dual USB, and aux audio input pod for the radio. The voltmeter and USB port tap off the factory power socket. From Jax99's air compressor setup, the change pocket by your left knee might make for a suitable place to tuck a USB port and voltmeter there. I'll likely be going back to a double-DIN headunit soon, so those will all get relocated. (And in case you're wondering, I swapped out the pocket under the radio with one from an All-Mode truck, so that affords some additional switch space, for which there are Carling-sized USB bodies that will fit there. The All-Mode switch is wired to control my air compressor and lockers.) This is just a panel kit that came with a switch, voltmeter, socket, and dual USB components. Wired it up for my fridge. The panel cover is on a simple harness coming off a 6-circuit fuse panel. I ran an 8AWG wire from the battery to it. I intend to run all other cargo accessories and exterior lighting through this. Also, I don't know if all R50s have that socket in the lower right of the pic, but I think all the trim panels have the flat spot and socket wiring behind it. You can buy the OE socket, or put any other socket/port/switch there. The wires come through an existing rubber cap. As for liftgate lighting... I really liked these pods, as they're very low profile both above and below the mounting surface, but I wish there was more light output. The lens is also a switch. I ran the wire through the OE grommet/boot in the upper LH corner of the gate and over to the rear cargo light, and that's where they draw their power from (yellow harness). I just drilled out rivets on the cargo lamp, put in my leads, and riveted it back together. This allowed the factory switch to act as the master switch for all three pods, then I could turn each on/off as individually. However, the interior lights will turn off automatically after a few minutes to prevent draining the battery. You must open a door to get the light back on, but for the liftgate, the door switch is integrated into the latch and is not convenient to toggle. So, I added a switch (subtly shown below with an unlit blue ring) that toggles the door switch circuit...sorry for the crappy pic, but it's mounted on the plastic bump on the trim behind the pivot for the wiper.

Totally agree. We’ve lightly discussed it. I personally am planning to go to a full length rack to replace the aluminum mini- rack I built. It’s worked fine, but I simply need more surface area. Still debating whether I’ll stay between the rails, or go atop them, since that’d probably give several more sqft, plus mounting options for awnings, camp lights, tie down points, tool mounts, and so forth. Biggest challenge for stuff like that is shipping, materials, part lengths, and effectively two R50 roof rack systems. I had some ideas for modular panels (i.e. 3 panels to make a full length, 2 panels for behind sunroof, etc.), as that would make for an easier-to-ship and possibly assembly-free product. We’ll be revisiting ideas at some point I’m sure.

Nope, it’s factory as far as I can tell. It’s been a while since I’ve pulled the console, but I don’t recall anything looking out of place. If you need to add one, I’d tap off the wires on the outlet under the radio so that they remain on the same fuse.

It’s not always terrible. I once tuned into a truckers’ convo while stuck in traffic on the freeway in eastern AZ, and one trucker was adamant that people get fecal matter in their ears because they use their phones in the restroom. That was worth its weight in gold, and all thanks to having a CB.

I won't deny that we've talked about one of those items in significant detail.

Leave the Frontier, too!

After years of chatting about our own Pathfinder projects—and often, grumblings about having to make our own parts or hack together something—it’s become clear that Jacob (@TowndawgR50) and I (Patrick) have a common passion for our trucks. We’re always bouncing ideas around and sanity-checking each other’s work, ultimately realizing we have highly complementary skill sets that extend beyond working on trucks. We’ve also grown tired of a serious lack of aftermarket support for our trucks, especially when there’s an obvious demand to keep them on the road and make them more capable than they already are. To counter that, we’re teaming up to fill that void. That’s right: it’s time to turn a hobby into a business! In the weeks to come, we will be making more announcements regarding the status of the company (still working on the name!) and our product offerings. We’re still in the early stages of the company formation, and have some challenges ahead of us (most notably the 1,400 miles that separate us!), but we’re ready and stoked to get the word out there. If any of our individual projects have piqued your interest, then our collaborative efforts won’t disappoint. Our initial focus will be on subframe drop (SFD) kits, as this is the most important component required to move beyond 2” of front suspension lift. Unlike prior versions of kits that have existed, we intend to offer complete kits and à la carte components in multiple heights—including strut spacers—to support various lift configurations. Our particular focus is to provide high-quality finished products that simplify installation for the average DIYer (hint: strut disassembly not required), and without having to replace aftermarket components you’ve already purchased. While we won’t go into detail about all the products (and services) we’ve been discussing, we will tease that trailing arms and panhard bars (both in static lengths with poly bushings, and adjustable lengths with rebuildable joints), skid plates, missing link, and bumper brackets are on the product roadmap. That said, we’re looking forward to a productive 2019, so stay tuned!

Nissman’s correct. Easy thing to fix.

I initially responded to stick with 01, but I guess if you carry over enough from your 02, the other ought to work. Just keep in mind 03-04 is drive-by-wire.

Yes, there was an OE rear carrier for the 01-04 models, but it was very rare here. The main body was slightly different from 96-00 ones, but shared all the same hardware and latch components as far as I could tell. I’ve only seen a few pics of it. @TowndawgR50 saw one on the road in his neck of the woods just the other week. He scrambled to get some pics, but it was like trying to catch Bigfoot, lol.

Add @jax99 to the list of 9448s. I think we got the expected 4" out of them.

The lockers go inside, or replace, the differential, if that’s what you’re asking. If you’re wondering “where”, on the other hand, any 4x4 or differential shop can do it. Depending on the type of locker, you’ll need other special tools, particularly if you need to “set up” the gears again. Set up is normally required if you replace the carrier, or if you put a locker in an H233B. For R180/R200 (front) and C200, you can get away with putting everything back in the way it come out (i.e., don’t mix up the bearing races and any shims). If doing a mechanical locker up front, it’s pretty easy. Just disassemble the axle and carrier, pop the ring gear off, replace the carrier internals with the locker pieces, then put it all back together. Only thing you might need to check, as I’m not familiar with WD21 drivetrain options, is whether you’ve got the R180 or R200 up front...I don’t know what options exist for the R180.

Nice. Though, what rims do you have? I had to trim the lip on the carrier portion for it to clear the OE rim.

I've not read 1" as a max anywhere. As mentioned, it may come down to CV manufacturer, or the possibility that the truck sits (or operates) at difference angles at different times. I don't have a definitive answer to your truck, but I'd argue there are too many variables. I've run between 1.5" and 2" of net lift (currently 5" of lift on 3" SFD) without issues. Steve (aka @fleurys), the owner of SF Creation, is an active member of the community. His spacers are pretty popular, and I don't think he's had many complaints about them. I'd reach out to him directly if you have any concerns.

I'll reply to your other thread (thanks for creating a separate one).

I just answered some of this in your other reply, but yes, a 2" SFD would require a modified or aftermarket steering link. Tool and hardware space will be tight in the motor mount spacers, though. The subframe spacers are less of an issue; you can using longer bolts to connect things. It's all doable, but a 2" SFD would cost almost as much as a 4" because you still need the steering link, which is the most expensive part. If 2" of spacers are so problematic, and you don't want to change parts, I'd just pull off 1" of spacers for the time being, or even shave a half-inch off one.

You've answered your own question: they call it a lift because it was once sold as a lift kit; which provided 4" of lift. I agree that the "SFD" part is worth distinguishing as "not a lift". You've got a lot of other thoughts in your comments, perhaps enough to start your own thread if you're having issues. As stated above, 2" of lift is in that no-man's land, and it's hit or miss in regards to CV binding. There no reason one side would be more faulty than another; same exact CVs on a mirrored suspension. Others have reported differences in CV manufacturers, however. A 2" SFD would require a modified or replacement steering link. A 2" SFD is also not as practical as taller sizes, noting that I've fitted 1", 2.5", and 3" SFDs on my own truck, because of tight hardware spaces in the motor mount spacers, and the costs of the steering link (though the joints can be re-used with a longer shaft if you eventually were to jump to taller SFD). Any amount of lift requires additional or replacement parts. I'm not understanding your complaint there.

@SpecialWarr Yes, an LSD is a good traction device, but I omitted it from the list because it’s not a locker. Having run a front mechanical locker with a rear re-packed LSD, though, I can attest to its capabilities. Costs-wise, changing from open-to-LSD or re-packing an existing LSD might not be cheaper than mechanical locker either.

But seriously, if you want to make a magnetic drain plug, just buy a neodymium magnet with a small diameter...1/4” would be fine. Drill a 1/4” hole at the end of the bolt, some distance less that the height of the magnet, then stick the magnet in, maybe with a dab of silicone adhesive or something.

The filters I’ve had with magnets just have them attached at the bottom, on the inside, visible by looking in. Don’t recall the brand(s), since lately I just grab whatever satisfies the local deals for synthetics. The spare filter I’ve got doesn’t have it. When you do have skids, the valve means you don’t have to remove them (well...still gotta remove the fronts). Although I’ve made my skids that much easier to remove, it’s still one less thing to bother with. (Though, I only change my oil once a year, occasional top-offs...the only way it gets easier than that is to simply not change it.)

Probably wouldn't hurt anything more than the wallet to have a magnetic drain plug, but most of the oil filters I've used in my trucks already have magnets in them. Even without a magnet, I've come this far with various vehicles and it's never been an issue. I've got a Fumoto valve, too, and I'd rather have it over a magnet. Even then, you could make one of those for well under $35.

There are a few locker types out there: Mechanical lockers aka lunchbox lockers aka unlockers: these have spring-loaded side gears that keep the diff locked most of the time, but will disengage (unlock) when making turns to allow one tire to rotate faster than the other. They'll make a click-click-click or tap-tap-tap noise during the turn. This allows them to be streetable to some degree, but loose terrain (including wet road) may prevent them from disengaging, which could prove hazardous; simple solution: slow down, brake earlier. Because they are already locked, there's nothing extra the driver needs to do to engage them. Most lockers of this type fit inside the OE differential carrier; some (like a Detroit Locker) replace the carrier. If you have rear LSD, you'll need an open carrier to put non-Detroit mechanical lockers in. These are rather economical options, running around $200-$300 for most brands, and can be installed with basic tools. Air lockers (ARB) or Pro Locker (TJM): these require an air compressor and some electrical wiring to engage. The air pressure is what locks the locker, and the locker unit replaces the entire OEM differential carrier. The wiring portion puts electric solenoid on the air line, which opens to fill the air hose between it and the locker. This is engaged by a switch that the user toggles. One air compressor can power both front and rear locker, so it usually makes sense to run dual air lockers, budget permitting. When not engaged, the locker acts like an open diff. These lockers run around $1K and require more advance mechanical skills for installation, as gear setup is required. Factor in another $200-$400 for the air compressor and fittings. E-lockers: while not readily available in the US, an Australian brand, Harrop, makes the Eaton equivalent of their E-lockers for Nissans. Like the air lockers, these replace the entire carrier and are open diffs when off. They don't require air, of course, but do require some light electrical wiring. A 12V source and a driver-operated switch engages the locker. Harrop and other importers sell them for around $1200-$1300 USD depending on the exchange rate. Although they are more expensive, they also don't need an air compressor. Cable lockers: Although I don't think there's a Nissan option, cable-actuated lockers (like OX) do exist. Same concept as the air and e-lockers, except they are engaged by lever and cable. However, there are kits that can convert them to air-driven. Spools: these replace the carrier internals, or the entire carrier. Not sure if aftermarket options exists for Nissan, but these "lock" the diff 100% because they completely eliminate the "differential" function of the diff. The idea is that all the moving pieces are held stationary to each other, which means that you can weld all the internals together to turn the diff into a spool. Cost in that scenario is just labor and welding wire. Since you will be installing manual hubs, these tend to pair well with mechanical lockers as a budget-friendly option. Since you have a WD21, you also have rear mechanical diff options if budget is an issue. Either route, lockers are worth every penny.

McMaster has a variety of them (that’s where they came from).