hawairish

Welcome aboard! I'd presume the Geo Tracker hubs to not fit...spline count is one thing, but you need shaft diameter, clip-depth, hub bolt pattern, and other alignment of the stars to catch a break there. It's a long shot. However, any hubs for your Xterra will fit the Pathfinder just fine.

For your setup, 18awg is perfectly fine. Much of your factory wiring is around that, including radio, interior lighting, etc. You could jump to 16awg if you want a thicker wire potentially more suitable for exterior runs, but not necessary if the wire is properly protected (exterior wire should be sheathed/protected to some degree anyway to resist elements, heat, chafing, etc.). The leads coming from those LED pods are probably even smaller than 18awg.

PathyDude17 is correct, assuming you tap into the lead before the dome light switch. Technically, you could trigger off the ground side of the switch, if you wanted the lights controlled by the switch, but that's unorthodox. This is exactly my approach, and for the same reasons. There are some places where it's impractical, though, like when there are short leads to work with; as Slartibartfast noted, it shortens the wire. I usually only consider the 2nd option (peeling insulation, looping wire, solder) if I can pull one of the terminals out of the harness to slip heat shrink onto the splice. I won't use the liquid or electrical tape for that splice unless it's the only option. I will, however, resort to taps if I need something quick, basic, or potentially temporary. There are good and bad options. I like the Posi-Taps the most, but they're a bit expensive and bulky. However, they provide a solid connection without crimping, and just put a little pinhole into the wire insulation: T-Taps/Scotchloks tend to be pretty reliable, but they get a bad rap that I think comes from people who don't match wire gauge thickness to the tap, and the internal blade cuts into the wire and not just the insulation, or doesn't get through the insulation correctly. I've never had a problem with them, but like the Posi-Taps, they come off the wire at 90° which sometimes prevents looming wires nicely. I like these inline Scotchloks, but they're a pain to remove and can allow for the added wire to slip out. None of these options are exactly pretty, but if you lack the soldering skills, tools, and/or patience, they're perfect for you. Just don't use electrical wire nuts; that's ghetto.

You need all numbers, though, to determine diameter; 265/75-16 and 265/75-17 differ by 1". They're a great resource. Specifically check out their tire calculators: https://tiresize.com/calculator/

Good deal. One more thing to keep in mind about LEDs is that there is a polarity...don't go cut-happy on wiring until you're sure of +/- leads. If you plan to do the reverse light bypass I described, you'll need the FSM to locate the harnesses and wiring colors.

That'd be the case. And for these lights, I don't run any relays or additional fuses; not necessary for this application.

18W ea.

Mine are wired for reverse only, and I don't intend on changing that (I'll be wiring additional exterior lighting and separate controls eventually), but adding a switch wouldn't be difficult. My backup lights have a fairly low current draw, so I would just bypass the signal for the park/neutral position sensor (AT) or back-up switch (MT) through another switch. Rather than tap wires at those switches (they're installed on the transmission), the wires are in the harnesses in the front passenger footwell. This saves the trouble of having to run wires to the back of the truck. There are a few ways of doing this, though, and if your backup lights have higher current demands, you may need to run a dedicated wire to them and use a relay to get both reverse and manual modes.

Reverse lights are easy, no drilling required. Just pop off the taillight and tap into the wire to the reverse bulb. There's enough clearance space back there.

Right on. Easy test is just pull the dome light down and rig up the connections. Should light up fine. My pod installs are in the liftgate, there are some details in the link mjotrainbrain posted earlier. Your access point will depend on your placement of the pods and length of wire. There are few grommets on under seats, trying to run through those might be an option to save from drilling new holes.

Ha, yeah, those specs must've gotten lost in the shuffle while everyone had these grand visions of undercarriage lighting. If you're just talking about a pair of these, tapping off the line shouldn't be a problem at all.

Doubt that'd be a problem. I've added 3 LED pods to the dome light wiring without issue. The relay approach is if you plan to add a fair amount of extra lights. I interpreted rock lights to be a few LED strips mounted all around the vehicle, and in that case, it'd probably work just tapped off the wire, but a relay would be the better approach.

Yeah, mine’s lit when I’m driving sometimes. That wouldn’t be a good lead to use if it means your ground lights staying on. But, I think there are ways to work around that issue.

It's in the BRake chapter, under Parking Brake Control. There's a nut under the parking brake lever; lift it up, pop a cap, adjust nut. Lever specs 44lbs of force after 6-8 notches. Adjusted mine as part of the disc brake swap.

As others have noted, a relay off the dome light circuit is probably the best bet. In my FSM (04), it's listed as pin 50, red w/ white wire, coming off the smart entrance control unit located to the right of the interior fuse panel. One notable is that I think the circuit provides a low-level voltage even when "off". Can't recall if I read this in the FSM, or simply experienced it, but sometimes the LED in my dome light stays dimly lit when it should just be off. I want to say I measured it once and got something like 3V-5 when I expected nothing.

Thanks @mjotrainbrain. I feel like that one ought to be stickied. Not sure the current count of people who've followed my approach, but I think it's somewhere around 6-8 so far. Mine has held up fine, noting a minor indent on the quarter panel where I allowed the carrier to open too quickly/hard, and the need to reinforce the latch attachment area with an aluminum angle piece riveted in. It's been on several trails and washboards, has held up well. In a few weeks I'll be taking off for bedlining and I'll see how the bracket rivnuts have held up. I've also reinforced the same latch area on @Jax99's truck, though we needed to replace one of the rivnuts the other week, too. I know @TowndawgR50's carrier took damage coming down on the trail, but I suspect even an OE-braced truck may have taken similar damage in that scenario. All things considered, it works. This one isn't perfect, but there's not really any other better option, short of a custom bumper, in my opinion.

I've known of the part, but haven't seen it. The OME strut has a tab with a nut on it instead of a slot for the line. I imagine it was just OME's way of squeezing a couple more bucks out of Nissan owners. A cable clamp and bolt sufficed. I can get you some OME vs. KYB pics if you'd like.

It's still available from their site: https://view.publitas.com/arb-4x4-accessories-1/old-man-emu-international-application-catalogue-edition-36/page/1

They're definitely not fun to compress. I've done it twice with rental compressors, and dread the thought of doing it again.

Neither of those are 33’s, though 275 and 265 by themselves don’t tell you anything about the diameter, only width. The need to trim is also dependent on the wheel offset.

Thanks @RedPath88, I definitely appreciate that reply. And yeah, B's inbox was always full. No doubt the inboxes get cluttered quickly. We'll definitely follow-up in the near future once @TowndawgR50 and I firm things up. Work in progress!

Not a complaint, just an observation, but most of the admins and mods aren't frequent visitors to the forum these days. It's fully understood that vehicles, interests, and life change, so I don't have expectations that they'll always be online (I miss me some @Precise1 quips, though). Our trucks aren't exactly new, either. However, I've had a few questions lately that don't warrant public posts like this, but my PMs to current admins and mods have gone unanswered. Definitely not a knock on the current staff, but would it be beneficial to cycle in some new moderators? There are several active members with proven interest and knowledge that would make great moderators. (And no, this isn't a pitch for me; not interested.) For starters, it might be nice to see some renewed interest in checking for pin-worthy topics (i.e., Land Rover springs), cleaning out or condensing old pins, moving build threads to the Member's Rides section, etc. This is hands-down the best forum community I've been a part of. For the few years I've been around, is has also been very self-moderating. I've read some old posts and know this wasn't always the case. At the same time, sometimes it's nice to know (or believe) the forum isn't completely hands-off. I don't find the NPORA FB group a suitable replacement (noting that it's not directly affiliated with the forum, just a shared name and a lot of member overlap). My original reason for this post is because @TowndawgR50 and I had some questions about qualifications for Vendor status here. We wanted to hold off on our recent announcement until we were able to discuss things with the admin team, but could no longer wait for a response. @RedPath88, I believe you're the best person to talk to about this (and sorry to call you out directly here), but your inbox is full and the Hangouts invite I sent has not been accepted. We'd still like to chat about it if you've got the time.

I think much of what I replied to on your original light bar thread applies here to some degree. For this particular thread, I might also make the following suggestions: In regards to wire gauge, start with Power = Volts x Amps, or P=VA. Figure out amp draw first (A = P/V), then you can use a variety of wire gauge charts. Wire gauge, part 2: the length of wire matters, too. BTW, I don't recommend those pod lights for that application: too much amp draw for the application, blinding light, very bulky, heat generation, limited space. At 140W, they'd warrant 10AWG (max 15A) because of the 10A-12A draw (140W/14V = 10A, 140W/12V = 11.7A), exceeding 12AWG (9.3A max), but because they'd need about 20' of wire, you might even consider 8AWG...a bit heavy duty for the application, though. Having installed flush mount lights under my liftgate (see below), there's not much room to work with unless you're willing to cut metal. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of low profile flush mount LED options out there. The adhesive LEDs aren't aesthetically appealing, but are great functionally. Plan on separating your power needs to front vs. back, if you haven't already. That way, you can run dedicated leads to each area with a thicker gauge wire, then distribute power on thinner gauge wires. This will spare you a lot of headache routing wires. The cheap USB/Voltmeter/Socket combos that you can find everywhere on Amazon and eBay are great, inexpensive ways to add those items anywhere. All they need are two wires (and can be daisy-chained in most scenarios) and a 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" bit. And there are tons of options available. Consider your circuit demands when thinking about relays and switches, as one or both might not be necessary. Generally speaking: You really only need a relay if the max amp draw on the circuit will exceed the max amp rating of the switch, or if you want the circuit to energize in the ACC/ON positions. A switch, of course, is only if you want/need manual control. If worried about draining your battery, you're better off using a relay and ACC/ON lead. Otherwise, a switch doesn't really offer much practicality unless there's some need (including general safety) to disable all or part of the circuit. Having it control a light makes perfect sense, of course. ... I've done a few projects in my truck that might align with what you're wanting. Though only an option if you switch to a single-DIN headunit, I bought a factory radio-delete panel and mounted components to it. Voltmeter, dual USB, and aux audio input pod for the radio. The voltmeter and USB port tap off the factory power socket. From Jax99's air compressor setup, the change pocket by your left knee might make for a suitable place to tuck a USB port and voltmeter there. I'll likely be going back to a double-DIN headunit soon, so those will all get relocated. (And in case you're wondering, I swapped out the pocket under the radio with one from an All-Mode truck, so that affords some additional switch space, for which there are Carling-sized USB bodies that will fit there. The All-Mode switch is wired to control my air compressor and lockers.) This is just a panel kit that came with a switch, voltmeter, socket, and dual USB components. Wired it up for my fridge. The panel cover is on a simple harness coming off a 6-circuit fuse panel. I ran an 8AWG wire from the battery to it. I intend to run all other cargo accessories and exterior lighting through this. Also, I don't know if all R50s have that socket in the lower right of the pic, but I think all the trim panels have the flat spot and socket wiring behind it. You can buy the OE socket, or put any other socket/port/switch there. The wires come through an existing rubber cap. As for liftgate lighting... I really liked these pods, as they're very low profile both above and below the mounting surface, but I wish there was more light output. The lens is also a switch. I ran the wire through the OE grommet/boot in the upper LH corner of the gate and over to the rear cargo light, and that's where they draw their power from (yellow harness). I just drilled out rivets on the cargo lamp, put in my leads, and riveted it back together. This allowed the factory switch to act as the master switch for all three pods, then I could turn each on/off as individually. However, the interior lights will turn off automatically after a few minutes to prevent draining the battery. You must open a door to get the light back on, but for the liftgate, the door switch is integrated into the latch and is not convenient to toggle. So, I added a switch (subtly shown below with an unlit blue ring) that toggles the door switch circuit...sorry for the crappy pic, but it's mounted on the plastic bump on the trim behind the pivot for the wiper.

Totally agree. We’ve lightly discussed it. I personally am planning to go to a full length rack to replace the aluminum mini- rack I built. It’s worked fine, but I simply need more surface area. Still debating whether I’ll stay between the rails, or go atop them, since that’d probably give several more sqft, plus mounting options for awnings, camp lights, tie down points, tool mounts, and so forth. Biggest challenge for stuff like that is shipping, materials, part lengths, and effectively two R50 roof rack systems. I had some ideas for modular panels (i.e. 3 panels to make a full length, 2 panels for behind sunroof, etc.), as that would make for an easier-to-ship and possibly assembly-free product. We’ll be revisiting ideas at some point I’m sure.

Nope, it’s factory as far as I can tell. It’s been a while since I’ve pulled the console, but I don’t recall anything looking out of place. If you need to add one, I’d tap off the wires on the outlet under the radio so that they remain on the same fuse.