hawairish

Rear main seal.

Same here. Very tiny saturation on mine. Im giving it time to fester, in case lower 4L gears are in my future.

No problem, glad you've got a solution. Replied to your PM...you might be able to adjust the latch and stopper a little to get more contact on the switch. But to recap the discussion for everyone else, after reviewing the FSMs, it looks like there was a short pigtail that ran between the some harness under the RH tail light and the switch for the carrier. The 2-wire harness branches off of the tail light wires somewhere nearby and should have a grommet on it; the wire in question is a green w/white one. To make the light work, you only need to ground that wire. I think in my case, mine happened to have the pigtail, but others may not. If you take pancake's approach, older gauge clusters have the G/W wire as pin #3 on the M24 harness. In my FSM, that wire is pin #2 of the same harness, so be sure to check your FSM and confirm the wire color (both are listed as G/W). In the FSM, see the EL (Electrical System) chapter, specifically the "Meters and Gauges" section for info about the gauge cluster, and the "Warning Lamps" section for more specific details about pinout and wiring. The schematics will have a "TC" icon to indicate components related to the "tire carrier switch".

I'd first head over to your local DIY spray-n-wash bay, be liberal with the tire/engine degreaser, let it soak in a little, then power wash the area. With everything cleaned up, might make it more obvious were the leak is coming from. Otherwise, it's just being soaked up by all the grime that's built up. Sometimes the "cleanest" of the dirty spots is near the source, since dirt sticks a lot better to oily surfaces than it does to actual oil drips. The wiring loom is in the way in your pic, but that grime-less "clean" spot on the back of the block above the oil pan is directly below the bellhousing weep hole, making the RMS a plausible source. Seeing as the bottom of the bellhousing also looks more wet than the rest, I'd say drips are from the weep hole. Next is determining the color of the drips, brown or red.

Can't say I've looked, but I would also expect the clutch to not be serviceable; riveted unit. There is a p/n for the just the clutch (92660-4W00A), but it exceeds the cost of a replacement aftermarket compressor with clutch (closer to $300 or less?). Other reason for asking for clarification is if you threw a belt, I would have expected a grenading idler bearing to have been the problem. Of course, with the belt routing behind other belts, I would have expected some carnage.

To be sure, you're talking about the bearing in the compressor unit, and not the bearing for the idler pulley nearby? Or is it the clutch itself that is bad?

Thanks Kyle! Hopefully we can get the pics showing again. Found out that PostImage had some issue with the postimg.org domain registration, but if the image URLs point to postimg.cc, all will be good. I pm'd RedPath88 to see if he can make a bulk change...it would fix it for everyone using PI. Going to see if I can move this project forward a little tonight...

Not late, I'm just a little stalled for the time being. I'm trying to ramp back up for a v2 of the bracket, but too many other projects at the moment. Hoping to have a much better answer within a month. I still have all the pics, but my image host, Post Image, did something stupid with links. Checking with them to see if they have a better solution before I have to redo everything. Here's the abstract:

As far as I know, all the manual hub brands for any one R50 year will fit all other R50 (and QX4) years. The CV shaft and wheel hubs are dimensionally the same. I think all the fitment applications are screwy because older Pathfinders had OE wheels that could accommodate the Warn hubs, while the newer wheels couldn't because of the center cap style. All the OE wheels have 100mm center bores, but the older wheels had center caps that didn't reduce the bore diameter a few inches away from the wheel hub. My 04 SE wheels have a recessed center cap, and the flange it rests on would prevent the Warn hubs from fitting without modification because the bore reduces in that area to something like 94mm. The generic hubs I use have a smaller diameter, so they fit just fine. My buddy has an 02 with Warn hubs, and they fit just fine because he has afttermarket steel wheels where the center cap isn't even a factor. That all said, if you have aftermarket wheels, you probably won't have an issue because the center cap won't interfere with the Warn hub body. As for Auto-Mode usage, the way RainGoat explained it is how I understand it, but I have the part-time system so I can't attest to anything. I can't really say the having the hubs helped mileage either...it's pretty crappy as is (14 mpg is "normal").

Ha, should be (or in your case, should've been) either a 10mm or 12mm...standard OE for 8mm x 1.25 JIS bolts. Fun fact: only sizes you'd typically need on any OE Nissan bolt are 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, and 22mm. And then, because you're a R50 owner where crappy aftermarket parts exist, you end up with a bunch of Standard and non-JIS sizes as things get replaced. Bummer about the mounts and rust, though.

Hmm, yeah my pics in posts seem botched now too. However...one thing I've noticed over time is that Postimage tends to cycle through URLs for some odd reason...my bookmark for postimg.org doesn't work, but I see all my pics at postimages.org, which redirects me to postimg.cc, which I've not seen before (I've seen the others). Hopefully they're still working on some traffic redirects.

Ran a trail over the weekend, plus the 4 hrs of highway there and back...results were good. I think having a proper PHB drop enabled some body roll, as there's a little more than I remember with the previous setup. But overall, the ride was comfortable, yet firm for both highway and trail. Definitely seemed to handle the trail well, without bottoming out. Of course, this was a full shock, strut, and spring replacement, so I expected improvements at all corners.

So, looks like the springs do end up seating fine on the lower perch. Maybe I over-thought it because of the work required to get my spacers to fit into the spring. Still haven't pulled it out of the garage for a test drive! Just finished the PHB drop tonight...what a pain this has all been.

Man, those reservoir brackets turned out sexy!

Ok, things are installed-ish, finally. I must've missed the part where the spring ID was close, but not quite, OE ID. It's like 4.9" vs 4.7" ID. Sits a little high (0.25"?) on the lower coil perch, and I needed to mill the inner seat of my coil spacers in order to re-use them. Without my rear bumper on, the 9448's and 2" spacers netted about 3.25" lift over my previous setup w/ OME MD springs. As it sits right now, I need a 6.5" PHB drop to level the bar, suggesting these are good for about 4". Going to make a 6" drop bracket tonight and let a custom bumper bring it down a little more. OME HDs up front lifted another 1.5" after bumper, winch, and skid installs. I'm cool with the 1.75" extra lift in the rear because the previous setup sagged a little in the rear, especially when loaded with family and gear. There's a bit of a rake unloaded, but it should sit nicely when it's loaded up. I have enough wheel clearance for my kids (4 and 5) to crawl atop the tire under the wheel wells now. Time to start wearing down these 32's faster... Haven't taken it for a test drive yet, of course, because the PHB is disconnected. I've always liked the ride on the truck, but I could tell it was getting softer. Had to modify the rear KYB shocks to get them to fit, and hopefully that effort was worth it. Installing the springs this time around was a real pain. I'll get some pics up once I'm able to get it out of the garage.

My 04 has the 3-button remote. However, having taken it apart before, there's a 4th button that's hidden. I think it just acted like another panic. I wish it would pop the glass. The FSM describes the process for learning new keys. However, you may want to find a local locksmith willing to cut any key blanks you provide. I had hell finding one locally, and eventually gave up. The shops would only cut the keys they sell.

Totally agree! In fact, excellent idea...probably should toss it on that NICO thread? Id like to think they could make the case for keeping some info around. Besides, the 05+ FSM exploded into like 3x the number of chapters. I swear the rear view mirror has its own section.

Was looking up some info about an Xterra, and came across what amounts as a cease-and-desist notice from Nissan NA for NICO to discontinue providing FSMs to the community: http://nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals A shame it's come to this. While I understand intellectual property, Nissan clearly no longer supports an "Enthusiast" owner base by enforcing this. While I'm not a particular fan of the NICO Pathfinder/QX4 forum, NICO in general has been a significant resource. Hopefully this move by NNA doesn't dwindle down NICO's value. http://forums.nicoclub.com/starting-to-wonder-if-this-company-has-lost-its-damn-mind-t620064.html You may want to download your FSMs very soon. Looks like NICO has some on archive paths still, plus instructions: Instructions: http://nicoclub.com/archives/use-nicoclub-coms-factory-service-manual-database.html Pathfinder: http://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html Frontier: http://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-frontier-factory-service-manuals.html Xterra: http://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-xterra-factory-service-manuals.html

Thanks! For a second there, I had to think about what else it would say if not Pathfinder...but once I've got that plasma table operational, it would be trivial to put Infiniti logos/texts, custom stuff, etc., without being tied to quantities. Thanks! I keep telling my wife that if she can just get a job that provides medical for the family, I'll quit mine to just do this stuff!

Sounds like a good assumption that it wasn't a feature until later...at least the switch. But, surely it was a feature by key? I mean, without a switch, something had to open it. Anyway, glad you found a solution!

I really meant "eventually". But, they're installed finally, and I think for those in 4"+ lift realm, these are gonna work just fine. I did have some minor difficulties installing them, mainly because the upper mounting bracket is very impractical, and because the length of the stud and size of the joint doesn't give much space between the end of the sway bar and the trailing arm. The upper brackets need to be unbolted from the truck, then attached to the link, then reattached to the truck before connecting the lower end to the sway bar because there's not enough room to rotate the brackets up. But even when done in that order, it's tricky angling the lower stud into the sway bar...you may need to lift the truck a bit for clearance (I installed mine on the ground). I was tempted to cut off the extra stud length, but the end has a hex head used for keeping the joint stationary while tightening the nut. I imagine a boulder will probably bend the studs given my usage, but I suppose I'll chance that over needing to destroy the link if I were to cut the stud off. Right now, the links hang a bit below my trailing arms, which isn't good for my use. I currently have worn OME springs and 2" spacers, with the LR springs lurking in the shadows to hopefully resolve that issue. With that said, if you're not running close to 4" of rear lift, the joints may exposed to trail carnage. It's also worth nothing that both of my control arms are bent, which also exposes them a little more. That'll get addressed soon. Lastly...if anyone is interested in my disconnects, let me know!

I'm long overdue on a reply here! Unfortunately, I haven't been able to touch this project for several weeks due to all sorts of stuff, but this week is looking a little promising. Right now, I'm about 85% done with the bumper: I've been driving it around like this for a while, and well...it hasn't rattled off the truck, so I must be doing something right. What remains are mounting the winch solenoid box somewhere, and putting some sort of coating on. The former issue has been a pain...the control box is somewhat large and obnoxious, so I'll likely end up using my CNC router to create a mounting plate from 1/4" ABS sheet and mounting the box vertically in front of the radiator behind the grille, plus some other re-wiring to relocate the remote control plug. More work than I was hoping to do, but whatever. For the latter, I'm leaning towards using Monstaliner and one of their tintable kits, probably just their dark gray (not a fan of black). I'd love to go with an orange color (for bumper, sliders, tire carrier, and rear bumper when done), but I'm not really flashy like that...and there's a small premium on most colors. Of course, that 85% excludes a bunch of other smaller tasks, like blacking out the washer fluid reservoir and deleting the pre-airbox squid. I'm also trying to figure out lighting; might just go with 4 cheapo LED pods inside the angular openings. I've not welded up the skids, but I did make the necessary bends: I achieved my goal of making this a slide-on/off process. Just loosen the six bolts (4 under the radiator support and 2 under the crossmember) maybe 3/4" and slide forward. I may actually weld the two skids together, though that wasn't the original plan, but it'll work fine like that. Reason for wanting two pieces was to have 3/8" of steel plate under the support. With my existing mid-skid plate, I've also got additional layers under the cross member. I may also add some side wings for a little extra covering of. The ribs on the backside of the plate might be a little too close to the sway bar on articulation, but I may just test it out as originally planned. It may only make contact if my front end bottoms out, but when I replace my current OME MDs with HDs soon, that'll rotate the bar upward for more clearance. I can move the skids forward a little to add some clearance, too. .... I've been really slow on making progress towards getting the next set of brackets cut up, for several reasons. But, I've not lost sight of the project. My main concern is seeing a real-world application (mine) and making any corrections or improvements. The other thing is still avoid a repeat of the file snafus from the first set...too much rework on files. I intend to re-CAD my original drawings in another application, and that's just a matter of time becoming familiar with the application. The same application will be use when I get my CNC plasma table...oh yeah, I hinted at it previously, but it's official: I bought a CNC plasma table. I won't see it until June, though, and I'll need all the time until then to get a plasma cutter, air compressor, and electrical drops in the garage. I would like to have the 2nd set of brackets cut by the local shop still, just to not stall getting these out there. There will be a v2 design with the following changes, and I'm open to questions, concerns, and suggestions: Shackle mount depth: the shackle hole will move forward and protrude beyond the face of the bumper. I like the recessed location in general, but it presented some issues when trying to avoid blocking access. Hi-lift flat: one thing I wish I had incorporated was a simple flat spot for the tongue of a Hi-Lift to fit under. This might not be useful for all builds, but would be easy to incorporate. Shackle mount width and/or orientation: The current width is 1-1/8" (3x 3/8"), ideal for a 3/4" shackle. I don't want to change the width, per se, but the layered approach (pieces on each side of the main bracket) created some limitations when determining how to mount the bumper to the brackets. I may reduce the layer to two, giving 3/4" (2x 3/8") of shackle width, which actually seems pretty standard on other bumpers. Fewer attachment plates: the current design uses 3 separate plates for attaching a bumper face to the main brackets. I found this to be a pain, in terms of aligning everything and accounting for metal twisting from welding. The next design will have two plates (one per bracket) only. I will probably have a separate set of places specifically for creating a receiver tube attachment. General main bracket: couple small changes here and there regarding cuts, shape, etc. Hopefully more to follow this week...

Just curious, and sorry if I've missed the answers already... 1. When you used the key on the rear lock, did you turn the key twice? On mine, if the doors are unlocked, the first turn locks the truck, the second turn pops the glass. 2. Did older R50s not have the switch on the driver's door or a switch on the dash? I think I remember reading this once. So you were able to pull the release solenoid and switch from another R50 that had them, and it all bolted up?

You asked about this a year ago: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43073-shifter-locking-up-at-times-in-park-on-my-04/ Check the solenoid and switch I mentioned in my post.

Locked center diff is usually more commonly heard when talking AWD vehicles that can lock driveshaft output to 50/50, in addition to variable front/rear output depending on traction conditions. Here, he just means when the transfer case is engaged in 4H/4L....output is locked to both driveshafts 1:1.