hawairish

Cool, glad it's helpful. No worries on the pics, I still have all of them and would re-post them if my host does something stupid. If you have any ties to Santa Barbara, though, there's a guy on the FB NPORA page selling the later style (01-04). I would've liked to get that one, but the older one does just fine. Mounting should be all the same. Though, because you have a QX4, do you have the reverse lights on the rear gate next the license plate, or in the tail lights? The tire would block them if on the gate. Probably not the end of the world, but might require some research to see if you can bring over R50 tail lights and wiring harnesses to relocate the reverse lights, or look into adding reverse lights to the bumper or roof (would likely be easier).

Ha, I've almost 'removed' it twice from snagging on obstacles when wheeling. It's the parts along the sides...they just hang too low. On the plus side, I've been able to repair the damages (except for a hole in the bumper) with little effort. Removing it wouldn't improve my departure angle though because of the hitch.

I had an awful vibration when the u-joints on the rear driveshaft were misaligned. At its worst, it produced a very audible rumble, as if you were driving constantly on the rumble strips along the highway.

I wouldn't consider the parallel parking scenario a major drawback. An inconvenience, maybe, but having lived in a major city that relies heavily on parallel parking, you're assuming that you've even got adequate space to open the carrier enough to even lift the rear gate. How often would you need to load up the cargo area when parallel parking? Is there an alternative solution, like parking in a cargo loading zone, or other parking lot? While I didn't have my R50 when I lived in the city, there were times I couldn't even stand in front of the trunk on my WRX. Flipping the carrier would be a nightmare. The brackets alone only fit the RH side in a rather specific orientation...no way you'll be able to mirror that as cleanly as stock (and twice, for both brackets). All latching and striker hardware would all have to be moved to the outside of the carrier, which bends to wrap the rear gate, which you'd also have to reverse. The studs on the carrier base that hold the carrier bracket...the plate it attaches to is recessed more on one side. You'd be better off building a custom carrier, I'd think, if hinging on the LH side was a critical requirement.

Good point!

That's why I don't even bother looking locally for parts anymore. RockAuto FTW.

Nice. Whereabouts in AZ?

Yep, good observation. That's exactly what those holes are for. In some cases, though, you just need to be mindful when reinstalling them so that the holes go over a flat spot on the hub, and not another hole.

Not sure exactly, and I agree with your reason for asking. The canister has the function of trapping fumes, but I'm not sure if the clogged-open purge solenoid changes anything about the fuel pressure once the engine is warmed up and vapors cleared. I wouldn't think there's a correlation either, but this is an observation from driving 150 miles in this condition and it couldn't accelerate past 75mph. Condition cleared, no hiccups getting up to 90mph. The only difference was changing the EVAP can, clearing the lines, fixing the solenoid, putting a clear fuel filter by the can to prevent this from happening again, and resetting the ECU. Not sure what else could have contributed to the poor performance.

I had a similar issue as Clkindred on my 98 Frontier where the canister ruptured and sent charcoal all the way to the engine bay. PITA. Rebuilt a solenoid, replaced all hoses, and had to blow/vacuum the hardlines to clear the crap. Fortunately, someone shed light on a $30 Maxima canister that was just a reverse of the $130 Frontier one...rigged it up properly, cleared all my codes. Frontier uses the same solenoid as my truck; helpful for diagnostics. Given that experience, the EVAP system seems far too delicate to mess with. I don't believe it can trigger limp mode (didn't on my Frontier, but it's a far car from the sophistication of the R50), but it seemed to degrade performance on the truck. I'd say if you can avoid messing with it, do.

For the sunroof, just keep pressing the buttons until it cycles fully opened, then fully closed. After that, it should open/close normally with 1 touch. Happens to mine all the time when I disconnect the battery; it's normal.

Also, FWIW...I purchased replacement carpet for my Frontier many years ago (maybe a decade ago?) from these guys: http://www.stockinteriors.com. Fit was good...my trimming skillz were not. Carpet has held up well.

Skip the junkyard! You can buy replacement carpet from Rock Auto or several other retailers. Usually just requires cutting holes for bolt holes, shifter, etc. Pick your colors, there's even a vinyl option.

Can you pull one from your other caliper? Might be easy to take that to your local Ace or True Value and check their Class 10.9 selection. It's probably an M10x1.5 or M10x1.25. The latter is tougher to find. Presuming it's a non-serrated flange bolt. Whatever it is, boltdepot.com probably has it.

Sorry, you're right, they are Torx bits.

Best route is the local JY. Mine came with this style of course, but I pulled one for FerrariOwner123 a while back for around $100 or so. IIRC, it's all bolt-on, but it's been a while since I thought about it. I want to say that the lower rails (where your current cross bars are) are the same as mine, and the newer style just adds upper rails. You just need some Allen bits to remove everything, pretty simple. Just don't remove the mounts underneath all the rail points...if you do, the nuts that hold it in place on the roof will fall into the headliner! Also, to remove the front and rear plastic caps on the rails, you just need to wiggle them hard while applying upward pressure. They're held in by friction clips.

Thanks guys!

Howdy all. Thought I'd share a project I whipped up on Friday before heading out for a weekend camp out. The goal was simply low profile rack. I'm not a huge fan of the baskets that are out there, and how high they stick up above the rails. I found one low profile rack that I liked to some degree, mainly because it's just about the perfect width to sit between the rails that came on later R50s. I figured I'd just drill some holes on the side plates of the rack and use some channel nuts to secure it. But, I hadn't been able to pull the trigger on it. Instead, I opted to hit up the local big box: 2- 48"L x 2"W x 1/8"T angle stock 6- 36"L x 3/4"W x 1/16"T square tube 8- 1/2"-13 x 1-1/2"L carriage bolts 8- 1/2" flat washers, lock washers, nuts I used 1/4" rivets to secure the tubes to the angle stock, and then used aluminum welding rods from Harbor Freight and a MAPP torch to braze everything solid. The center rib is secured using M6x1.0 rivnuts and suitable hardware. Total cost for aluminum and hardware was about $115. I already had all other materials and tools, but they can be had for relatively low costs. The side rail has holes for rivets and carriage bolts. The OE rails have a minor arch to them, so I drilled the outer holes centered on the 2" stock (11/16" diameter), while the inner holes are about 1/8" higher (and 3/4" diameter). The holes allow the square seat of the carriage bolt to clear nicely and allow some tolerance for the arch. I thought about drilling smaller holes and filing them square, but the effort wasn't warranted...it ended up being a perfect amount for the washers to sit flat. The square seat of the carriage bolts are a perfect fit for the rail channel. I cut the side rails to 30" so that I could keep the oval OE crossbars. The cross tubes were cut to 35-7/8" to make a 36-1/8"W rack. The tubes were drilled to mate with the rails for riveting, and a center hole for the rib. Top view, riveted: Bottom view, riveted and bolted: Doing a simple floor test, with blocks under the side rails, it supported my full body weight (250 lbs) on center with minimal deflection. But, I also designed it to use the older OE cross bars as overload support...considering that it bolts to the upper side rails, and then can rest on the lower cross bar, which has its own rail for roof distribution, this thing is completely solid. I should've taken some pics of it loaded up with gear, but it withstood freeway speeds and rough dirt roads without issue. I also secured all ratchet clamps to the rack as well, both on the tube and angle stock...no issues. The only 'correction' I had to make was putting something in front of a gear box on the rack because the wind deflection from it was causing my air dam to flutter violently...an effect of the rack, but not a defect of it. I inspected the brazes, and they held up solid, so I'm pleased. I need to modify my shovel and pulaski axe mount to work with this...the 1/2" carriage bolts make excellent mounting points, so I already have a few ideas on how to make that work.

Yep, direct swap.

There is a bulb, and it can burn out, but as Citron noted, the seat would still get hot. Kind of odd yours would fail just at the same time as disconnecting it. But, you do have power at both the harness under the dash and the harness under the seat? And ground is good? And haha, no, not a Nissan tech. Just someone with too much time on my hands, constantly taking stuff apart (today was the roof rack...).

Yes, if you currently have lift springs, those just get re-used on new struts. Because there aren't any longer struts available (they don't exist), you don't really have any options in regards to increasing travel (except SAS'ing it).

Sorry, I'm trying to cut back on answers. And double sorry, missed your note about everything being connected. If the switches check out, the seat harnesses should also be accessible without removing the seats (again)...at least, mine where once I pulled them out from underneath the carpet. Good luck.

It's not 2" bigger than stock. No such thing, unfortunately. Whatever your lift method (springs, spacers, both), those just get re-used with your struts. If you think just one is blown, you can get away from replacing the one. But, for basic maintenance and consistent ride quality, may as well replace both and change out the strut bearings while at it.

There isn't a fuse...straight wiring. You can confirm in the FSM, but I confirmed it the other month when I put switches in my 04 (mine doesn't have heated seats, but truck is pre-wired for them and I plan to add elements). Is the blue harnesses connected to the driver's switch? http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/el.pdf, see EL-180. Pin 1 on the blue harness should be hot at On or Start. Check continuity on Pin 4 for ground. Pull the switch and check for continuity between 1-2 (low) and 1-3 (high).

You do realize this has already been answered in another thread you've already been replying to, right?