Exorpmtech

Hows the swap going? Do you keep the 3.0 computer?

The little rubber tube usually goes on the bottom. I belive its an 'anti-rattle' device.

I just briefly read the post, but did you check the coolant level in the radiator? Good catch on the dead bird. Any blockage will obviously cause an overheat issue.

I hate photobucket...took me a minute to type all that up...There site is so ****** now I wouldnt pay them a dime. I guess it's time for a new photo hosting site...

Hello again. Got some time to stick my new-to-me trans and transfer case into the old $200 Pathfinder that needed some serious love... The old trans was totally shot; no first or 4th, very loud bearing noise, and the gear oil came out silver, obviously from all the bearings grinding themselves into a fine paste. Here's the new unit. I was pleasantly surprised it came with the t-case, and even looks like it had a recent re-seal, $300 delivered, 1/2 the miles of current trans. Here's the super simple transfer case linkage, you need to pull the entire shift handle off the side of the trans, just 2 bolts and 1 nut at the bottom of the the shifter where it attaches to the link, then slides right out. Doing this on the new trans before install, and will also need to be done on the unit currently in the truck. Also the main shifter needs to be removed as well. Access the top of the shifter by removing the boot and remove the larger snap ring (there's also a smaller one) and the main shifter just slides up. You need to remove the center console and cover plate in the truck to access the top of the shifter. Once you have the battery disconnected and the shifters out, go ahead and remove the slave cylinder from the trans. I HIGHLY recommend NOT removing the hydraulic line from the slave. Remove one bolt completely and then use an open end wrench to slowly turn the other bolt out. It's actually under the fluid line but once the first bolt is out you can work the other one out and never open the system. That'll save you a ton of time because these clutch systems are a pain to bleed(in my experience) Remove the rear 02 sensors. Im lazy and just unscrew them connected, make sure you twist back about 4 turns before you install them. Next remove the front and rear drive shafts and unbolt the starter, support the rear of the transfer case with a jack and remove the cross-member. Now you can Unbolt the exhaust at the down pipes and more than likley all the joints will be corroded so you'll have to remove the entire rear section of the exhaust as well. I pulled the entire exhaust in one giant piece. Just unhook from the rubber hangers and the two 12mm bolts holding the exhaust to the bracket on the rear of the t-case. Now lower the trans just a few inches. Try not to let it hang on the motor mounts. The trans is extremely heavy. *Important step Remove the crank sensor now! It's under a heat shield, about 11 o'clock on the top of the bell housing. You can get it out before you lower the trans but you have a lot more room after you lower the trans just a bit. You need to pull it out of the trans or you'll probably break it on the way out. Don't just disconnect it. Now disconnect the electrics. There's a heat shield on the passenger side, remove this shield and there's just two main connectors close to the pinch weld on the body. You don't have to disconnect each sensor at the transmission. Remove the trans mount from the transmission and now is the time to position your second/lowering jack about where the trans mount was bolted. This is about the balance point of the entire assembly. You really need to ratchet strap the assembly to the jack if you're doing this by yourself, of even if you have a helper. I guess the entire setup weighs about 400lbs and if youre doing this on your back be ready for the weight of this thing. Remove all the bell housing bolts with a long extension/swivel 14mm. The driver side lower bolts are wedged between the front diff. I was able to get them with a LONG swivel head ratchet-wrench. You also need to loosen the bracket those two bolts go through when you re-assemble or theyre never go back in. Slowly pull the trans away from the engine and here's what it looks like. (Of course nice and blury) Here's the old worn out unit. 240,000 miles. This one had no pilot bushing installed, could have helped destroy the original trans. Remove your old pressure plate and clutch. *Another very important step: Mark your flywheel position in relation to the block if you're going to change the crank seal. The crank sensor reads off the flywheel and if installed at a different position (if it's even possible?) then it could cause a no start. I couldn't actually locate a reluctor on the flywheel, but better safe then sorry. Remove your old pilot bushing. I just break them out with a chisel but if you have a pilot puller, try that too, or bread (I hear bread works lol), hammer your new pilot in, grease it up. Now time to get your new setup ready. Grab the bearing on the input shaft and pull out with some force. The clutch fork will pop of the pivot and the throw-out assembly will come out. The throw-out bearing will have to be removed from the 'carrier' that actually slides on the input shaft. I'm sure you're suppose to use some pullers and a press to install the new bearing on the 'carrier' but I just put it in a vice, hammered the old bearing off, and used a socket of equal size(of the inner race) to hammer the new bearing onto the carrier, took about 2 minutes. Be aware of which way the bearing faces. It does have a front and back. There are a couple different styles of bearing out there so be aware of what youre working with. My new bearing was a completely different style then the old one but the installed height was identical so I don't know if it was a re-design or the clutch coming out was a cheapo brand. I wish I would have took some pics of this part for ya'll... Clean your input shaft, put some kind of lube/grease on anything that moves, the input shaft, the pivot ball, etc. Install the bearing assembly onto the shift fork; aware that all the wire clips are in the correct spot and the bearing is properly installed on the fork, place the fork into the trans and slide the bearing onto the input shaft. The fork should click onto the pivot with the wire retainer on the back side of it. Change your rear main if youd like, install your flywheel, torque to spec, blue loctite if you like that sort of thing. Install your clutch alignment tool into the disc then place the disk and alignment tool into the crank shaft hole. Should fit tightly into the new pilot bushing. Bolt on your new pressure plate and put it all back together....Don't forget to clean the mating surface between the trans and block and put a bead of silicone there, at least that's what nissan says to do. Does it really help keep water out? Who knows. Here's the OE luk clutch. Worked flawless... Fill up with fluids and enjoy. We went for the Pathy's first good off-road trip the minute I had it back on the ground....I love this little truck. The reason you need a truck....

I need to do this...get an oe hitch

So here's my $200 Pathfinder. The Boss was kind enough to open up the shop for me so I could get rolling. Here's what I completed today: New front axles New wheel bearings Machined Rotors/Fresh Brake pads New steering rack boots New steering rack bushings Replace Bad 02 Sensor Replace front bumper/grill/headlight/corner Repair Corner light pigtail Install New Rear Control arm/trailing arm bushings Change oil Top off Fluids Flush Trans and Transfer Case Service the AC Give it's first bath in years. So this is what I started with: The CV's some of the worst condition I've seen and not be broken. The rack bushings were gone. Took about 45 degrees of steering input to get it to turn. Getting the front end torn down, installed new rack boots and bushings... Fresh brakes, bearings, and Axles Tearing her face off.... Back together, checking the AC... Went for a ride with family and ran it through quicky car wash, cleans up pretty good. Over all drives pretty well. The trans still needs to come out and either go to my builder or swap in a different unit. I was only able to replace one pair of rear control arm bushing due the bolts being seized in 3 of the 4 control arms. Luckily the one arm that did come out was the one where the bushings were completely missing. Replaced those two bushings and drive like a new truck again. Ill do the other 3 arms at a later date. I air-hammered them out and used the shop press to install them. That's it for now.

As promised I just installed my new CV's and checked the play. The only play is the mm of slop where the end of the shaft moves at the end of the hub and stops on the snap ring, almost nothing. There you have it.

The heat usually gets em..good work

The heat usually gets em..good work

The heat usually gets em..good work

There should be minimal "in and out" movement when the axle is bolted in to the spindle. The inboard joint moves in and out, the outboard joint is fixed. I would say 1/2 inch in and out would be on the further end of worn out. Im installing new fronts this weekend, ill let you know the "after" spec.

They sell a 'noid light' kit at most parts stores for like $15. It's basicly little light bulbs that plug into the injector connector. While the truck is running the bulb will flash. This will tell you if you have power and ground to the injector and tell you if there might be an issus in the harness. You can do the same with a simple test lamp but its not as gracefull.

let us know!

Getting the party started with my project Pathfinder. I bought mine with a pre-smashed front bumper and busted headlight. Finally found a complete bumper! Even has the fog light brackets which mine has, as well as the elusive flare extensions that tie the fender flares into the bumper that Nissan has long since discontinued. Upgraded to the bling edition and a minty grill. Even the skinny trim piece below the grill was straight so I nabbed that as well even though the color does match. Also scored the rear seat headrests that for whatever reason are missing as well as the dome assembly with the sunglasses holder intact. Also have new axles, rear control arm bushings, rack bushings and boots, all waiting to be installed as soon as I get time. I'll try and knock it all out in one day to maximize the instant gratification factor. More to come!