hawairish

That's why CA sets the (sub)standard. AZ is basically paperless, and it's awesome. Emissions process is super simple, good for 2 years on some vehicles, and is only required for Phoenix and Tucson area residents. You can even view real-time station wait-times online. Almost everything MVD-related (yeah, not "DMV" here) can be done online: vehicle registrations/renewals, DL updates/replacements, temp plates, sold notices, etc. Hell, just earlier in the year I needed them to overnight me a replacement driver's license...and they delivered it, on-time. They've come a long way since telling me my CA birth certificate was invalid when I first moved here in 1996... When I returned in 2010, they asked me if I wanted the same license picture I took in 1998 (when I was 18). Tempting, but no thanks. Glad you made it up there ok. Your posse, however, seems a little less enthusiastic.

Haven't done it, but it wouldn't be difficult. Both diffs have a barb that you just need a hose to slip over (1/4"?) and then you just route the hose to your desired location. The front diff is already route to a point above the bellhousing, behind the engine. The rear diff just runs up to a chassis reinforcement, but would be easy to bring into the cabin. Here's an existing project, which also re-routes the transmission and t-case breathers: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33293-transmission-and-t-case-breathers/

Have you tried disconnecting the ignition switch harness and testing the ignition switch for continuity scenarios (per FSM), as well as probing the live harness? Just to rule out the ignition switch...

Hey, sorry for the hiatus. Couple things worth clearing up...maybe not the case for your specific vehicle since it's got the engine swap, but notables about what I see in a few Nissans (and what I can recall from my Frontier without having it in front of me). Black/Yellow per a 1989 W/D21, 1994 W/D21, and 1998 D22 is the signal from the ignition switch to the starter. You can confirm by checking the EL chapters in the Starting System diagrams. So, it's only hot when the key is at the Start position (can be confirmed by disconnecting the starter harness). One notable is that both W/D21 FSMs indicate that US-editions may actually have Black/Purple wiring, while CAN-editions have Black/Yellow. But, I also agree with Slartibartfast about possibly measuring this after the interlock switch and getting a false reading. I definitely don't see anything that suggests black/yellow is a ground, and it doesn't make sense to be—the ignition switch is just a switch between the battery and the rest of the systems, so it shouldn't ground anything. But without bastardizing that wiring (and I wouldn't see a purpose to it), I'm not sure it plays into anything here since it would only impact the ability to start the truck.

Nice adaptation!

Just to describe those acronyms better, SPDT (single-pole, double-throw) refers to the number of circuits (poles) and actions (throws) that switch handles. SPST is the simplest switch; with one circuit and one action, it's either on or off. SPDT is a step up in that it can toggle between two contacts to create "OR" logic for a single circuit; that is either one contact is connected to the circuit OR the other contact is connected to the circuit. SPDT On-Off-On is very similar, except it has a center state where no contact is connected. If you see something like (On)-Off-On or Mom-Off-On, it just means the 1st position is momentary (press and hold), the 2nd position is off, and the 3rd position is on. Lastly, if you see "NO" or "NC", this refers to the normal state of the if it's a momentary pushbutton switch; it's either normally-open (off) or normally-closed (on), noting that pressing (and holding) the button will do the opposite of the NO/NC state. The ARB switches are a type of rocker switch more commonly known as "Carling" switches. Most Carling switches I've seen are DPST because of the status LED being its own circuit, but the illumination circuit isn't switched and doesn't factor into the classification. Specifically for that switch, if you want the illumination LED to dim, you would need an illumination signal and metered ground (the dimmer switch is a potentiometer, and does this function)...both of which can be found on the back of the OE dimmer switch. You're basically following the "Do not jumper" note for terminal #7. But, keep in mind that dimming is a function of the bulb/LED, so this may have little or no effect if the bulb can't handle the voltage or current drop. But, to make it dimmable, on the back of the dimmer switch you'd need to splice the pink/green wire to terminal #6 and the pink/black wire to terminal #7, and not "jump" ("ground would be a better word) #7 to #8. OTOH, if you don't want/need it to dim, and only want the illumination LED to come on with the dash lights, you can still connect the pink/green to #6 and just ground #7 (or ground #7 and #8 together, doesn't matter). Since your switch is under the radio, you should have a pink/green wire in the radio harness that is on the illumination circuit (this normally connects to the orange wire found on aftermarket radios, btw). #8 gets ground in either scenario, as this is the ground for the status LED when the switch is in the On position. Clear as mud?

Unless the alarm has an immobilizer and/or remote start feature, it's likely not the problem. If you don't see any thick wires coming from the alarm module (i.e., those that might be capable of handling high currents), then it's probably just used for arming/disarming. Although it might have an input for ignition sensing for some functions, none would (should) be capable of stalling the truck.

Very easy. Two scenarios you might like: In this scenario, they'll be on if a) you're in reverse, or b ) if you flip a switch. In this one, you have a little more control and you can choose whether they're a) on with reverse, b ) off completely, or c) on with a switch. I didn't have better symbol options for a switch, so disregard the direction (and that it's for a rotary switch). A SPDT On-Off-On rocker switch (not shown) is a good choice here...the middle prong on the switch would lead to the relay; the outer prongs would be for the reverse and ACC/12V signals. A diode is probably optional, but a safe way to keep power out of that circuit just in case in that first scenario. For the switch, you can decide when to feed it power...do you want to be able to turn them on even with the truck off, or perhaps only when the key is in the ACC or ON position? The reverse signal you can get from the park/neutral position switch (AT) or the back-up lamp switch (MT). FSM says it's a yellow wire, so just need to splice into that. You can also take it directly from one of the taillights (also yellow). The switched lead can come from multiple sources. The radio circuit is usually the easiest place since it has both a constant (blue w/yellow) and ACC/ON (green w/white) circuit. (BTW, these wiring colors are specific to your 00MY per the FSM.) On a side note...the existing back-up lights are not on a relay, so I don't recommend powering your new backup lights on the same circuit unless you're certain the overall load is below the amp rating on the circuit (10A). Even with LEDs, it might work, but it's a long circuit run and you may just end up popping fuses (and you should not simply use a larger fuse) or heating up the wires. Best bet is a separate fused source. If you plan to add any other electrical accessories to the vehicle, consider adding a fused distribution block instead of just adding a bunch of wires to the battery. On the relay: 30 - battery 85 - reverse/switched signal from SPDT switch 86 - ground 87 - to lights

The loose key in the slot is probably normal, as the key and tumblers have worn down over time (the keyed part is just for the steering wheel lock anyway; it's the key's tip that engages the ignition switch). In re-reading your original post, can you confirm something for me? The systems that were on seem like those that would be available if the ignition were turned to the ACC position (noting that headlights and the hazards should always work, regardless of position), right? I don't know specifics about an 88, but it's usually the case that AC/fan, dash functions, and power windows don't work until the ignition is in the ON position (truck started or not). The ignition also returns to ON after starting the truck and must remain ON, of course. My thought is that if the truck returns to an ACC state and not an ON state when it stalls, instead of staying in an ON state when the key is still pointing to it, then I'd still be suspicious of the ignition switch. If it's anything else (like a bad relay, engine/mechanical failure) it would stay in ON in theory.

If the relay isn't unique for your setup, do you have another you could swap it with? Could always test the relay, too, but sounds like it would only fail intermittently. Could take it apart to check for corrosion or any residue from arcing.

To answer your 2nd question first, I think it might just be coincidental that reconnecting the cables seems to reset things...but by the same token, it's very possible that some connection at the cable could also be a culprit, and a small amount of flex is "fixing" it. Any signs of corrosion, fraying, looseness at the terminals? When you say circuit breaker, and you talking about a fusible link? The reason for suggesting the ignition switch is that, short of a cut cable or something more obvious at the battery or fusebox, is that it's the only moving part of the equation. It has contacts that can wear and solder joints that can crack...both of which can randomly stall, or prevent starting, the engine. Here are also 3 personal experiences about the delicateness of electricity for some components: Friend's VW Cabriolet was dying randomly mid-drive. The contacts on the ignition switch had worn down...the tiniest key wiggle would not only shut off a running car, but would prevent it from starting if at just the slightest incorrect position (pulled the fuel pump fused, and listened to it pause during cranking with tiny key movements in the Start position). On my Frontier, I had a Clifford Immobilizer. The heavy gauge wires for the ignition switch run through it, and one day, my truck mysteriously died in an intersection (when my parents were driving, no less). Happened to me very randomly over a few weeks, but could seemingly always start it up immediately after. It died around a turn one day, couldn't restart it. Traced it to the Clifford unit...tiny hairline solder fracture on the circuit board was the problem. Although it wasn't directly an issue with the ignition switch, the implication is clear. On a Infiniti J30, the headlights kept shutting off randomly. Usually stayed on, sometimes flickered. Took me HOURS to find this tiny headlight control module with...you guessed...a cracked solder joint inside. Not ignition related, of course, but similar random electrical issues. I do a fair amount of soldering on various other projects, and usually when I have unpredictable electrical problems, I pull out a magnifying glass and check the solder joints first. Doesn't take much to open a circuit. Even had a similar problem on one of my kid's toys recently. Simple fixes, but tedious to locate. Bottom line is that a tiny solder crack can cause a myriad of odd symptoms, but there are also contacts that just wear down sometimes. And the ignition switch is the first point in the circuit with them, so that's the basis for the suggestion. Replacements are pretty cheap, though I'm not sure if yours would be screwed or riveted on (I want to say the one on my Frontier is only screwed on).

Found a Spicer catalog. http://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/files/media/pJJfDdtvqTwkxbSCA/k350-1-dssp.pdf See page 249 for WD21 and R50 4wd applications; the p/ns match what Steve provided earlier (5-135X front, 5-1505X rear). The latter is also used on a Subaru Brat, lol. It reads like 1310 is the series, and not an actual p/n? And it looks like 5-135X is a part of that series, but uses outer clips...which is a problem because the front shaft uses inner clips. They list an alternate p/n, 5-785X, which also uses outer clips. So really, this can't be correct. 5-1505X is confirmed as having inner clips on page 281. I can confirm the bearing cap diameters as being correct at 1.102", but they provide 2.208" as the distance "between snap rings" and I'm not exactly sure what that really means. I measure a min 2.045" and max 2.240" on the channel (i.e., 0.195"-wide clip channel), but since their dimension is closer to the outer edges of the channel, it couldn't possibly account for the snap rings being installed (and hence not really between snap rings, which would be closer to the min distance). But, if the distance between "installed" snap rings is really 2.208", that would be closer to the ones I just installed, and theoretically as much as a PITA to install. Hopefully I'm just misreading 2.208" as the max width of the c-clip channels, not accounting for snap rings, which would reasonably coincide with the joint I removed. Kingman, recall any experience with this particular joint by chance?

This was going to be my first suggestion as I was reading it. Try some continuity checks while jiggling the keys, slight key turns, and maybe tugs on the wiring harness. Not sure if the contacts are exposed, but check for any hairline cracks on the solder joints.

I took the truck on a 150-mile shakedown yesterday. Included about 20 miles of a popular off-road trail here (Crown King), 50 miles of dirt/washboard road, and 80 miles of highway over about maybe 6 hours (it was a much longer day with family riding along and several stops). I'm very pleased with the brakes. Holding and slow-stopping power is surely improved. Had one particular "oh-@!*%" moment on a hairpin turn that I didn't see too well in the twilight on the dirt road, and my impression coming out of it was that while the drums would've held, it would have surely been deeper into the turn. The experience with them has been hard to quantify so far, but driving with them has been like this: there are many times already that I forget that I've even swapped. That's good in the sense that nothing feels degraded or compromised. Driving around in traffic, coming to gradual stops at intersections, slow curves around the neighborhood...you just don't even notice it. But for the few instances I've need a little more (deliberate or not), I've not been disappointed. I've not had similar sensations since owning the truck, but then again, I've not changed the shoes or drums (well, sort of changed the shoes with thicker used ones from my spare axle)...but I have properly adjusted the shoes and bled the brakes several times to be as optimal as possible. Overall, it's still one of those upgrades that I wonder if fiscally beneficial, though. I did end up popping the LH-side end stop on the parking brake cable, so it's clear that using these isn't ideal unless you crimp them further. Even then, without removing them, they'd still have the insulation in them. I'm thinking the proper approach would be to cut off both end stops, strip the insulation, and crimp on new end stops (or salvage the end stop from the cut piece...heating it up would likely melt the insulation and allow the stop to slip off easily). It may even make sense to move the crimp point up maybe 3/4"-1" on the cable to take up some slack from adjustment at the parking brake lever.

Way to put the shop to use one more time. And go figure on the bumpstops...

Did a 150-mile highway + off-road shakedown on the truck to test lockers and disc brakes...on a scale of 1 to 10, it's awesome. Aimed it towards one particular obstacle that I've bypassed for a lesser obstacle twice before. Made it my bitch this time.

No, there are bumpstops. You're thinking about the dust cover (aka bellow), but I'm talking about a bumpstop (aka jounce bumper). It's the yellow thing in the pic, included in the bellows kit: If you're missing that, you're allowing more up-travel, and consequently more spring compression (than expected). As for the strut bearing...in Towndawg's case, those clowns didn't even install them. It was metal-metal contact. The upper coil bucket stayed stationary until the coil's resistance forced the bucket to move when he turned the wheel...and it only moved slightly at the very end of the turn. That means the spring was twisting when/how it shouldn't, which could ultimately weaken it.

Yeah, we were chatting about the popped spring offline, and it had me stumped too. At this point, I can only wonder if the spring is permanently weakened from being run without a strut bearing for a while...thanks to the "reputable" idiots who did the work beforehand. Just had another thought, though...do you have the bumpstops installed on the strut? Unlike ones that bolt to the chassis, these install over the strut rod and the strut boot attaches to them. If they're missing, and you go full flex, the (over) compressed spring would want to twist, perhaps causing it to dislodge. Maybe?

Ron, good to hear from you, and glad everything is still working! Interestingly enough, I was just up in Alameda a few months ago dropping off some axle shafts and diff parts, then came home with yet another set of WD21 disc brakes. Seems every time I travel up there or back, I'm hauling axle parts. But I just finally put those brakes to use...installed them on my R50. Thanks again for the hook-up!

Actually, totally understand why you'd want to change. The XJ was on my list, too, but the ones near me were either too high-mileage or too modified (to trust them, that is), and both seemed a bit inflated in price (especially ones in the original condition I wanted). The I6's in them are reliable, but prone to oil leaks. I particularly liked the styling of the Sport editions. But tons of parts options available and inexpensive, as you've noticed. But all said, good luck with the search and sale. Keep us posted how things turn out!

Haha, yeah, I'm glad I don't have to deal with rust! These aren't the Spicer joints, though. Those were over $20/ea...I think I paid maybe $4/ea for the Neapco through RA...but this might be a "get what you pay for" moment.

I did...nothing! Been working on it for the last several days, nice to finally feel caught up. But, eyeballing a roof rack that could use some customization...

Many WD21 owners use an Xterra rack instead; there are a few threads about it around here. I don't think the R50 would line up as well, and not sure it's been done.

Ha, possibly. I was able to change them somewhat quickly...I was able to beat them out with a sledge, but that took a lot of work and only then did I resort to the press. But I've spent at least that extra amount of time redoing them and troubleshooting. I expected it to be pretty easy to get it back into spec, but that didn't appear to be the case. But, oh well, I can make due with it. It was really bad earlier...rumbles started around 40mph and lasted through 70...and it was the entire truck rumbling! I had rattling I never knew the truck could make.

That's a bummer, Si. Mind me asking what would replace it?