hawairish

That's kind of what I was thinking about doing, too, but definitely one less thing I need in the garage. The driveshaft itself is fine, though, and I would think a proper shop can correct the runout with a little shifting of the joint in the yoke and a marginally thinner c-clip on one cap. One axis is almost spot on, it's just the other axis that's still off a tiny amount. I just don't have the tooling to precisely adjust things like that. Best I could do was throw it back on the floor press, reinstall it on the truck, and re-check runout.

I lied! The driveshaft is the problem. Because the u-joint channels are slightly farther apart than the (presumably) OE ones that were removed, I can't tweak the joints enough to limit the runout, which measured near the 0.60mm limit per FSM. I was able to get it down to about 0.18mm, which still produces a minor rumble around 65mph +/- 3mph, but it's far more driveable than it was (and alleviates fear that the new carrier bearings on the TJM were worn, or that I somehow botched the backlash on the gears.) Guess I'll take it to a driveshaft shop eventually and let them work their magic. Not much more I can do about it. Lesson (re)learned: if it ain't broken, don't fix it.

Thanks guys! Kyle: high probability I'll make at least one more set eventually. Will keep you posted! In other news, I think I've finally (mostly) gotten to the bottom of my driveshaft issues. Was getting some bad vibrations from driveshaft runout (I had changed my u-joints during this project; whole other story), but it's much better now. More importantly, I feel more comfortable putting miles on it. I've taken it on about 3 short trips so far, and tonight did a really hard-brake on the freeway offramp. Initially, I thought I was slamming it, but in that instant I pressed it harder, and it responded even harder. Extremely pleased with the response. As stated previously, the pedal and system feel solid, and I have no immediate complaints. For reference, the swap was done at 177,300 miles. I don't put a lot of miles on the truck annually, let alone daily (I lack a commute), but hopefully have some trail trips lined up that I can report back on.

3/16". You should be able to get bendable lines from your local auto parts store with fittings installed and already flared. That's what I did last week, anyway (and I already have a few parts from other Nissans on my truck to know they share fittings). These are what I used: http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-tubing?filterByKeyWord=pajx Just be mindful that some may have "bubble" flares. You want the "standard" or "inverted" flare.

Not entire sure the WD21 setup, but since you mentioned wheel cylinder, you're talking about drums...and I didn't there was a flex line on that. But, the fitting should be M10x1.0 regardless.

Oops, I threw in an extra T in there (RB20DET). But yeah, that was a fun engine...we were breaking traction in 3rd gear at 70 mph if we drop-clutched. All the 240SXs were great...brother had a 96 at some point that we did an MT swap and 5-lug swap on, but it got totalled when somebody cut him off. You can check hub runout on the outer face of the wheel hub close to the perimeter. There's not much surface to work with as the lugs are also close to the edge, but there's a small amount of space. And yes, the FSM has specific runout specs (.6mm) and provides exact locations to take the measurements at. A driveline shop would have to balance it though.

Well, driveshaft isn't the problem. But at least I feel better about the joint install now

Well, fingers crossed. I reinstalled the u-joints, opting to not move around the zerks. I had to do some floor press magic to push apart the caps a tiny amount once I had the clips in, which relieved just enough tension on the joints. They both move freely now. I was also able to use a clip from the front joint's pack...of course, I still need another clip if I ever plan to install those. About to put the driveshaft back on, hopefully I can call this project complete.

Welcome back! Would love to hear/see more about the 240SX sometime. We swapped an RB20DETT into my brother's 90 Coupe, and that was probably the most fun I've ever had in a car. Was planning a KA24DET for my 89 Hatchback, but that didn't happen. Anyway...you're definitely facing a tough issue. Only thing left to ask about are: 1. Do you run an wheel spacers? 2. Have you check the runout on the wheel hubs? 3. Have you check the runout on the rear driveshaft? 4. Is the rear driveshaft balanced?

More pics...

To adjust the parking brake lever, you just tighten the nut under the handle: It works! Almost... So, the first few parking cable tests were good, and it held the truck while in N on the slight incline of my driveway. But, during one particular hard pull...snap! I had in the back of my mind a possible failure point, so I knew immediately what it was… When I had determined that I could probably re-use that inner cable stop on the cable, I had wondered about its actual purpose, since that would probably dictate whether it would be reliable or not. I assumed it’s just there to center up the R50 return spring, since the spring just slides over the cable and stops, but it was hard to tell how compressed the stops are because the crimp is uniform; no dimples or compression marks at all. So, I went against my better judgment and left it as-is (and I had the means to assure myself it would hold previously). Basically, the stop popped off the cable because it was crimped over the insulation and the insulation allowed it to slide off (the actual stop on the R50 is the one that gets cut off, and it’s crimped directly to the cable without insulation). So I cleared the insulation, re-used the stop, and crimped it back on. This is the hydraulic lug crimper I used. I was originally planning to use in case I needed to put another cable stop somewhere on the line, but didn’t until this point. Re-using the OE metal one was a better option than the aluminum ones I picked up at the local hardware store. I only did this to the side that failed for now, just to get a better idea if that failure was a fluke or not. That, and I had assembled and disassembled the parking brakes about a dozen times and was tired of it. This is why I highly recommend the crimper, but maybe it’s not required. I was hoping to find a cheaper crimper/swage tool, but this worked well using the “16” die. Since I also had to tighten the parking brake cable adjuster all the way, I figured it was best that I put a ½” steel spacer in there to add a little more tension. Installing this is a little tricky...you need to keep the line tensioned above the driveshaft so that when you loosen the nut under the parking brake lever the cable doesn’t slip through the floor. A long quick clamp helps (and so would a picture, but I didn’t get one...can if someone wants it.) Once secured, you can undo the nut, install the spacer, then put the nut back on. Parking brake is supposed to be firm within 6-8 clicks, but I’m closer to the 8-10 mark. I will re-adjust it once/if the other cable stop fails. First Impressions? Putting it simply: they work, and work well. Braking feels good, there’s no detectable degradation, no soft pedal at all. I can actually feel the ABS pulsing on a hard brake. All systems go. But at this point, I really only have limited first impressions having only put about 15 miles on it since wrapping up the installation due to troubleshooting driveshaft issues. I don’t have anything quantitative that proves it’s better, but admittedly, it does feel better overall, not barring the possibility that the difference is potentially worn drums vs. fresh discs. I did a few before/after hard stops and 0-60-0, and braking is noticeably harder. Not mind-blowing by any means (and, to be clear, I did not expect anything mind-blowing since the FSMs provide specs after comparing the master cylinder pressure and split points for disc WD21 vs. drum R50), but noticeably better. By the way, there is no impact to the ABS system because the tone rings are retained. Worth it? My gut feeling is that some guys will consider this regardless of the costs just to be rid of drums. Interestingly enough, and having worked with drums for quite a while, I’ve never really had any issues with them...except for the very last drum that this R50 might ever see. It was a bitch...shoes were riding on the drum (didn’t sense any brake drag going into the project), couldn’t get the adjuster/turnbuckle to budge (despite greasing them the year prior when I swapped in the LSD; and yes, I disengaged the anti-reversing mechanism), and couldn’t press the drum off using the purpose-built bolt holes (the hold-down pin caps even snapped off)...I basically just went ape-isht via BFH. It was the most effort I’ve ever had to put into removing a drum. Bad omen perhaps? The true costs of the swap will vary largely. As mentioned, I got my WD21 assemblies for free, but I also paid about $160 for a 2nd set (I collect too much axle $hit), and I’d expect the pair to be in the $120-$200 range from a JY. I went with basic rotors and pads, and rebuilt the calipers myself, cleaned up and re-used all the springs and clips...that was probably the most inexpensive part of the process. Probably spent about $200 in new tooling alone (counting the floor press) just to do the job myself...but again, those items have already paid for themselves multiple times over already in labor costs for this and other projects. I feel that braking performance is improved. My drums and shoes still had plenty of life remaining, but perceivably still worn compared to these new parts. I do not intend to swap in the WD21 master cylinder, though there would probably be some benefits from the higher split point. Long term, one notable is that the available pads and rotors are much cheaper than shoe and drums; the latter, though, are more likely to last longer. However, there are no “performance” shoes and drums. I went with DD/economy parts so that I’d know, at a bare minimum, if this is viable (and it is). Lastly, one of my primary reasons for doing this was less for stopping power, but more for holding power, if we can differentiate the two. While wheeling in Sedona last year, one particular trails had a particular obstacle of rock stairs, and while going down them, it was clear that the drums couldn’t ease into the next step. I plan to re-do that trail eventually and see if there’s some improvement.

The Parking Brake Cable So, here’s the real challenge. Unlike the Frontier and Xterra, the parking brake cable assemblies run along the trailing arms and have brackets crimped onto them, which doesn’t allow for any slack...and you need about 2” of it. You can’t use the WD21 cables because they are way too short. If you have the means, you could do custom lines, but I personally wanted this install to require as little modifications to the cables as possible. I drilled, tapped, and notched steel tube to make an adapter bracket: This particular bracket would need a little filing to fit the disc backing plate if the OE shroud was still in place, but otherwise provides reasonable clearance to things. You then need to salvage the spring from the WD21 cables, which just requires needle-nose pliers to open an end and twist it off the cable, like so: The spring’s purpose is to return the little lever on the parking brake shoe back to its resting position, basically retracted the shoes from the drum (yes, there’s still a drum on the rotor, but only for the parking brake). Here’s a comparison of the cable ends and return spring, with the R50 on top: I tried finding a suitable spring locally, but didn’t have any luck, so it was just easier to reuse the spring. As you can see, the R50 cable has an inner cable stop for some reason...which conveniently gets used (just twist it on): And then, circumcision: You have to cut off the end piece because it will interfere with the inner lip of the rotor.

Here’s how to do a rear disc brake conversion for a 96-04 R50 using 88-95 WD21 rear brake parts. First things first, though: I’m not getting into the drums vs. disc argument here; both have advantages and disadvantages. I’m not advocating one over the other; in fact, I’m fairly neutral about the discussion. I’ll be the first to tell you there’s nothing wrong with the drum brakes...they’re reliable, long-lasting, and quite easy to work with and maintain (in my opinion, of course). Feel free to discuss the merits of either system, or ask any questions later, but I’m not writing this to justify why you should or shouldn’t do this swap. This is just the how-to. So why did I do it? Curiosity and opportunity. At some point, a few people asked me directly about whether I thought it was possible. And I know it’s been discussed heavily in the past. A fellow NPORA’er gifted me a set of WD21 axle assemblies after I helped him out with some info. I’ve been sitting on this project for about a year now, only finally deciding to go through with it when I swapped my LSD for a TJM the other weekend. And well, here we are: an R50 with rear disc brakes. I’m not aware of any R50/QX4 that has done the swap, but the process is essentially the same as what’s already been documented for WD21, D21, D22, and WD22. For the most part, I’ll only be going into detail about the parking brake cable, since this is the only thing specific to the R50. Otherwise, the process and parts are the same as others have documented, so be sure to read those posts linked below (but, I’ll give a brief breakdown of steps, too). Prime at XterraNation did a great write-up of the process for his Xterra (although he never installed them; he tried selling them, but not sure how that went), and Roastbeef at Pirate4x4 (among other sites) did it to his SAS’d Frontier and provides some decent info, too. Nissan Nut has done it to a D21 and provides some generic info for other models. The parts and process is no different for an R50. Prime’s (WD22): XterraNation Roastbeef’s (D22): Pirate4x4, RoninWheelers NissanNut's (D21/WD21): NissanNut The gist is that you use the WD21 disc backing plates (and consequently all the brake components that bolt to it) on your R50 axles instead of the drum backing plates (and components), then figure out how to adapt the parking brake cables. To that extent, one major note is that it’s basically bolt-on, but by no means a direct swap and is not without some customization. It’s not a practical DIY project unless you have the means and tools (a floor press is required). The R50 parking brake cables get reused, but they are permanently modified, and fabricating a bracket of some sort is required. If you plan to do this swap, you’ll very much need to budget for parts and labor. If you know a guy, who knows a guy, who has a floor press...get to know that guy. Any driveline shop should be able to do the work (at least as far as the axle/brake assemblies go), but you’ll need to provide them specific instructions on how to reassemble everything. (A couple local shops quoted in excess of $150 for just labor.) Parts Needed: Rear disc brake assemblies* from a 88-95 WD21 If you have a 96-99 R50, you need shafts from an 00-04 R50 (or Frontier or Xterra) -or- you’ll need to have yours lathed down...more info below. Long brake line for passenger side (I used AGS Poly Armour Brake Line, PAJX-351; 3/16” line x 51” length w/ M10x1.0 fittings available from AutoZone for about $9) Short brake line for driver side (I used AGS Poly Armour PAJX-340; 3/16” line x 40” length w/ M10x1.0 fittings, also from AutoZone for about $7) Replacement parts: wheel bearings, oil seals, grease seal, axle o-ring, axle nut lock washer (see my 31-spline axle swap write-up for more info) Brake parts as-needed for your specific donors, setup, and/or liking: rotors, pads, shims, piston, calipers, short hose, rebuild kits, springs, parking brakes, etc. (There are performance rotors (http://www.cquence.net/partfinder/product/list/?cat=16&make=Nissan&model=Pathfinder&year=1995) and premium pad options out there , btw.) 4x Nissan C200 axle studs (p/n 43083-EB000) Optional: 12x wheel studs (Dorman 610-320)...now’s a good time to change them. I’d recommend an open nut (Dorman 611-065), a stack of ½” ID washers, and some anti-seize to aid installation. Optional: 8x axle stud nuts (p/n 08912-9401A) Brake fluid Wheel hub grease *About the assemblies: you need, at minimum, the backing plate that mounts all the brake components to the axle shaft. This is the most important part, but there are also some parking brake pieces that you need. If you can also get the parking brake cables, do so, but you’ll really need the springs from the end of them. It’s easier/better to just have the whole assemblies just in case, like so: Below is the backing plate shown, cleaned up with parking brake shoes installed, caliper and bracket assemblies. There was a shroud around the backing plates, but I cut them off because they were damaged (not too tough to do with a Dremel and small cut-off wheel): If you have a 96-99 R50, your axle shafts are yet another Nissan variant. The wheel hub flange has a greater diameter than other shafts, so the rotor won’t fit it. You’ll need 00-04 R50, D22, or WD22 33-spline shafts or, in lieu of new shafts, you could also have them lathed down. Larger diameter wheel hub on right: Fits... Doesn’t fit... Tools Floor press — I bought a 12-ton floor press from Harbor Freight for just a little over $100. It’s more than paid for itself doing the 31-spline swap, this projects, and replacing u-joints. Keep in mind, though, you'll need other parts to break down and re-assemble things. Bearing splitter — needed to pull the ABS tone ring and outer bearing off the axle shaft. Nissan Nut shows being able to pop it off with a crowbar or screwdriver, but yeah, that'd didn't work for me at all. Brake line bender (optional) — helpful to get clean bends, but the brake lines can be bent by hand Hydraulic crimper — highly recommended for parking brake cable modification; available at Harbor Freight, but I found one a bit cheaper on eBay and included more dies Brake line flare tool (optional) — depending on how you approach the brakes, you can either use a pre-flared line and bend it, or make your own line using M10x1.0 fittings and a flare tool. Mini-sledge, dead-blow hammer, mallets, sockets, tool aptitude, etc. In my case, to make the parking brake brackets, I used: Chop saw (well, I have a modified mitre saw and metal-cutting blade that I use) Drill press M6x1.0 tap Dremel w/ metal cut-off discs 1.5”H x 3”W x .125” steel tube (two 2.75”L pieces Basically... Again, I’m not going to go into great detail about axle shaft disassembly and assembly...when you read the other write-ups, you’ll know quickly if you can or can’t do it. But basically, you need to: Disassemble the WD21 axle shaft and brake assembly to the point that the disc brake backing plate can be removed from the wheel bearing retainer cup. Disassemble the R50 axle shaft and brake assembly to the point that the drum brake backing plate can be removed from the wheel bearing retainer cup. (This is where you would also want to pull the outer bearing and grease seal, press the bearing race from the bearing retainer if you intend—and you should—to replace them with new parts). Reassemble the R50 axle shaft and all R50 shaft parts with the WD21 disc brake backing plate. You’ll need to use the C200 axle shaft studs at the top of the plate, and the R50 studs at the bottom. Bolt the assemblies to the truck. Remove the OE brake lines, and use them to mirror the bends on the custom lines. Modify the parking brake cables. (I am grossly oversimplifying this part!) Assemble the brakes. Adjust the parking brake. Bleed the brakes. Go! (er, Stop!) Brake Lines As noted, you’ll need to make two brake lines. The WD21 and R50 ones will be too short. At first, I bought some 3/16” line and fittings from eBay, only to realize it was too thick to flare. The ready-to-bend lines (which are already flared and have fittings installed) are a great solution, although the 40” line I used for the drivers side was a little long, so I cut it down a little and made a new flare...but you could easily add another bend to take up the slack if needed. My brake line bending skillz need improvement, but they’ll do the trick. I bent my lines using my spare axle housing to mock up, but it would have been much easier to just wait until the OE brake lines were removed and match the bends to them. You can use a cheap tool (HF sells one) or just bend them by hand. Then, just loop them over the axle shaft and into the short flex lines (images shown below with the parking brake brackets). You could also make an extension line and re-use your R50 line if you just twist the end that goes into the drum about 90°. I don't recommend this approach because: That 90° twist may weaken the line The coupler and short line (they have small 12” lengths like the AGS lines I mentioned above) cost more than the longer lines It adds more connections

Agreed. The 10449 joints have them on the end, so I assume it's pretty negligible. At this point, I may just say fskc it and not even worry about the fittings. Saves me the trouble of drilling and tapping, cleaning out shavings, etc. Only the front zerk would be inaccessible...and to make it accessible, pulling the shaft down isn't too tough. If I pack it well enough, doubt I'll have to think about it for a while. I just want the truck back together at this point.

Thinking I'll be ok...the zerk is really light, and I plan to put it on a cap opposite-ish of the existing hole (which I'll plug with a set screw). I was hoping to do this all last night, but couldn't find a 1/4-28 tap. And yep, going back together the way it came apart.

Yeah, I'm not too sure how well these are going to work in the long run, either. Took the shaft apart again, and the joint ends already show some marring from contact inside the caps, and they have maybe <15 miles on them. I suspect it's from pressing them a little to line-up the clip channels, but not sure what other option I have. Thought about cleaning and re-using the previous joints, but I'd only be able to make one joint from the parts, and it's probably not worth it. I'm just going to relocate the zerks to the caps so that they're actually accessible and put it all back together, hoping it resolves the rumble.

Resurrection! Sorry to revive the dead, but thought I'd add some thoughts on this, since this is the post I based my purchases off of. Installed Neapco 10029 (it's labelled "PDQ", which I assume is a lesser line than the Brute Force) on the rear drive shaft and what a pain in the... Seriously, probably one of the most annoying jobs I've ever done. I've heard suggestion to carry spare u-joints on trail runs....yeah, screw that. I needed a floor press to get mine apart. Better off carrying a spare driveshaft. Getting the clips off wasn't difficult, but getting the caps off was something else. But anyway, I started with a driveshaft that had some hesitation on both ends on one axis, each side. Probably not enough to warrant replacement, but I had the shaft down for other work and have been sitting on these joints for a long while now. As for the 10029's, the c-clip channels were not spot on (could tell early this would be the case by comparing the joints...sorry, no pic). Got it to work, but feel it required more work than expected. Also, there's not enough clearance on the front u-joint to access the zerk fitting, as Precise1 mentioned. The rear zerk is manageable, but still tight. I seem to have also introduced a rumble in the driveline, but the driveline saw several changes during this session. Although "Made in the USA", I kind of wish it wasn't so that maybe I had a better chance of getting 4 c-clips and a zerk fitting instead of 3 c-clips and 2 zerk fittings with it. Had to re-use a clip unfortunately. I'm sitting on the 10449 joints wondering if I'll ever bother with them...add this to my list of inexpensive parts that take too long to install (PCV valve is on that list).

Yes, WD21 discs on my R50. Just finished bleeding it, actually. Hoping to take it for a test drive tonight, but gotta change my driveshaft u-joints first. Stay tuned, I'll have a write-up for it.

Awesome. Lokka's a good option, but weld+hubs a cheaper solution. Keep us posted.

That's not a bad idea. I was originally thinking about sleeving them in rubber fuel hose for rock protection (one of the things I like about the TJM is the inclusion of ~3' rubber hose for attaching to the diff), but not sure if the rubber is a good approach. I'm aware of heat shield sleeves...but maybe a silicone hose as a sleeve would be the best of all worlds?

And in case you're curious about the air controls, here's how that's turning out... Diodes doing their thing... The AWD switch controls all compressor and locker functions as described above. The dual gauges are so that I can see pressure levels on both sides of a check valve that is buried in there. The upper gauge is for the air tank and lockers, and the bottom is for the direct readout for the quick connector (shown rotated). The system will relieve the compressor of a charge without discharging the air tank, just to avoid any compressor start-up issues. I've got safety valves on both sections, the cooling fan runs when the compressor is running, or if the compressor is off and above 50°C/122°F. I'm waiting for a digital pressure switch that will allow me to preset an inflation pressure and have the compressor shut off automatically when met, but I've also added a manual switch to bypass that if desired. Here's the manifold that's installed behind the cargo panel, underneath the window. (Didn't get a pic of the installed location apparently.) Safety valve, ARB solenoid, 70/100 pressure switch, TJM solenoid, tee with line from compressor and line to a 1/2 gal. Viair tank. Space is at a premium inside the vehicle, and I didn't feel like mounting everything (really, anything) underneath the vehicle. The unfortunate part is that all the compartments where one could install things (the cargo tub, the quarter panel, under the rear passenger seat) don't "connect"...you can't run wires or hoses between them very easily. So, ended up using some bulkhead push-to-connect fittings. The open one is for the TJM. The lines sit above the muffler (removed in these pics), and while I think there's enough clearance to avoid heat issues, I may craft some sort of heat shield just in case.

I've finally been making some progress on this install. The front ARB was installed the other week, and am about 95% done with the air setup (awaiting one more part), and just finished installed the TJM-equipped 3rd member last night. Disc swap completing today hopefully, and probably changing out the driveshaft u-joints, too. Truck's been on stilts for the past few days. But anyway, here are some more pics and notes of the installation... Finished assembly: Snaking of the line above the carrier (didn't want to cut any of the tubing): I think I made a few minor adjustments to the line after this, but there's about 1/4" clearance from any surface (not that it'll be moving), and it's ample relief. If you installed the actuator the way it came (with the tube pointing down), you'd soon realize the tubing is too short to reach into the housing. I initially attempted to rotate it, and it was really stiff...so much that I worried about collapsing or breaking the tube. But with enough persuasion, it does rotate (there's a small ring clip keeping it together, but I didn't want to mess with it). Fitment of the actuator to the bracket wasn't great. Everything is nice and square, but the slots in the actuator didn't clear the holes in the bracket, so I had to file the slots a tiny amount. Hard to see here, but neither bolt would fit without risking cross-threading. And although there's a set-screw hole on the bracket, it didn't include a set-screw, and I didn't deem it necessary. I also had to file down the bearing cap, although the instructions don't mention a need. The caps have these small metal protrusions that prevent the bracket from sitting flush, and it made the actuator sit a little crooked, too. Then the actuator could be aligned properly...hard to tell, but it clears nicely. How do you like my makeshift work stand? Quick clamp was used to keep the locker engaged. I don't have a giant vise for this sort of work. Also, one of the crown bolts had this tiny, nearly unnoticeable dent on the starting thread that almost immediately manifested into a cross-thread. I had to file that one down a bit. Let this be your gentle reminder to finger tighten bolts first. All things considered, from an installation quality perspective, the TJM is ok. Had to do a bit more work than anticipated to make this all work. More defects than I would expect, but nothing that prevented install. And that sucker is heavy...noticeably heavier than the open or LSD carriers. I have yet to fully test it, but it's back in the axle. I just need to run a line to it, then I can do a full system test. More to follow...

Cool, keep us posted. Side question: what rear locker you going with?

And just curious, where do you see "enhanced mobile view"? Are you just talking the mobile site in general, or are you seeing something else? I've never seen anything say exactly that, and the mobile site hasn't been a burden by any means.