hawairish

Seeing as pepperjack26 also just posted his approach, those are perfect pics. Good use of the ramps, too...I have a set as well and didn't think of that. But, same concept.

I can give you all the information you need...always feel free to ask. I added a reply to the post you referenced with better/detailed instructions. I omitted one (important) note previously: you need 4, not 2, jack stands, to accomplish this. One set is used to lift/support the rear chassis, and another set is used to pivot the axle. You'll need the chassis up get weight off the springs. The procedure is what I've did on my Wrangler (front and rear axle), on my truck several times (most recently to just test fit 4Runner springs), and when installing OMEs and spacers on my buddy's R50. Again, have never needed spring compressors. For longer brake lines, see my post here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40487-ac-2-lift-shock-options/?p=758898. There are cheaper options; I chose Centric because they were cool enough to provide detailed specs. These obviously aren't stainless steel, but I can assure you they work just fine.

Add step 8.5: If the spring doesn't seem to clear easily during removal or install, you can probably lean on the axle a little to get a little more flex from the trailing are bushings.

One important thing about #1 that I forgot to mention is that the rear of the chassis is also supported by jack stands. That is, you need 4 jack stands and a good floor jack to do this. In the first pic, the red jack stand set is used for supporting and pivoting the axle, but there's also a silver jack stand set (the driver's side one is just visible over the floor jack) that the truck is resting on them. Amended (clarified) instructions: 1. Lift the rear of the truck and use jack stands to support the rear chassis. There are oval-ish jack/support pads under the rear passenger doors on the unibody rail. Height of the truck depends on your jack stands...lift as high as possible, reasonable, and safe. I've used blocks to gain a few more inches to my basic 2-ton stands (it becomes especially helpful if installing lift springs and/or spacers). A proper floor jack (2.5-ton+) is capable of lifting the entire rear of the truck just by placing the jack directly under the rear diff. 2. With chassis supported, lift the rear axle and support both sides with jack stands on their highest setting. Position the jack stands under the lower spring perches, leaving enough room for your jack between the jackstand and axle end. 3. Remove the tires 4. Disconnect the shocks at the bottom, or remove them altogether. 5. Place your floor jack near the end of the axle. Lift the axle up enough to clear the jack stand, then remove the jack stand from the area. 6. Slowly lower the jack, allowing the axle to pivot on the opposite jack stand. Watch for line stretch if applicable. 7. As the end of the axle gets lower, the spring will decompress, and eventually loosen in the seat 8. When the axle is as low as reasonable, you should be able to lift the spring up to clear the lower perch, then tilt the bottom out and slide the spring down off the bump stop. (In my pic, the axle is resting on the drum, but that hasn't always been necessary if you can get the chassis supported high enough.) 9. Re-use the rubber spring pieces and install the new spring and/or spacers by reversing step #8. 10. Lift the end of the axle with the jack until axle, put the jack stand from step #5 back in place, and lower the axle onto the jack stand. 11. Repeat steps 5-10 on the other side of the axle. 12. Once both springs are in, reconnect/install the shocks, put the tires back on, and lift the truck off all 4 jack stands.

No problem, thanks for stepping in, B.

1. I've never needed spring compressors for the rear, and that includes fitting lift springs and spacers. Remove tires, disconnect the shocks, support one end of axle with a jackstand (highest setting), use a jack on the other end to lower the other side of the axle. The spring will almost fall out. Be mindful of the breather hose and center brake line. Like so: My sway bar end links were disconnected at the time because I was doing other work, but disconnecting them is not necessary. 2. Yes, re-use the plastic piece. There's a top rubber isolator that also gets re-used. 3. Nope, both ends are the same.

I'm doing it because the parts were given to me, the amount of work required to document the process is trivial to me, and because others have been asking me for info about them. Why should you care what anyone else does, and who the fskc do you think you are telling anyone else what to do or not do, or calling me a douchebag? You shared your opinion, I acknowledged it, so *&^! off instead of calling people names.

Ok.

For yours, all you need is the complete axle shaft assemblies (shaft, brakes, etc.) pulled directly from the donor, and the hard brake lines from the axle. You may also want the master cyclinder on that donor since it has a higher split point than the drum-brake version. It's a bolt-on swap from what I understand. For R50 owners, they'll need to break down the axle shafts, swap the disc brake backing plate to their axles, and modify the parking brake cable a little. I have this particular project lined up on mine, with all the parts ready to go. Still deciding on which axle shafts to use, though, since that'll dictate which locker setup I go with.

Stay tuned for my write-up. You can use any open diff from any Pathfinder, just need the 31-spline axle shafts from a 99-00 Frontier. You don't necessarily need the gears either, just the carrier.

Yes, nearly an inch, but similar process. Should yield a smooth quick cut, though. Quicker probably better to minimize heat buildup, which can damage the finish behind the cut.

Google "Titan wheel bore" and check some of the videos. Personally, I'd stick with a router, but yes you can probably grind them out too.

That's a good outcome...brakes are easy, and changing that seal is cheap. Best to do them together since, well, you gotta disconnect the brakes lines and cables to replace that seal. May as well do both, too. RA sells the seals for about a $1/ea.

Cool. And you've probably seen this already, but one of the pics gives you an idea of what you're looking for through the fill hole: http://nissannut.com/projects/lock_right_h233b/ vs.

Try a VIN search at nissanpartsdeals.com, then drill down to the Rear Final Drive section. The diagrams should show what was available. A non-VIN search for an 87 only shows it having the 4-pinion. I've been using this site frequently for parts cross-references...in fact, coincidentally, most recently for cross-referencing 2-pinion open carriers in H233Bs. It's been very reliable. To confirm, you can peek into the fill hole on the diff and see the carrier without having to drain anything. Rotate the driveshaft, and if you see a solid carrier instead of side or spider gears, you've got the 4-pinion.

Powder coated steel? Sure they're not aluminum? Magnet test? I don't seem to run into any problems having a 2004, to be honest. I mean, nothing's ever available locally if you that's what you mean, but I get everything from RA without issue (noting that RA mingles parts from the 2004 Pathfinder Armada). I've gotten to the point where I'm stockpiling replacement parts. But then again, my truck will eventually be a frankenstein from other Nissan parts, then it'll get interesting. Love that burgundy color, btw. Good luck on things!

What's the material? Amazingly, I think I've seen 2-3 new vendors selling spacers in the past couple months.

They look exactly like mine, just without the stickers (and I pulled the stickers off mine, lost 1 horsepower). Mine were on the truck when I got them, so I don't know if the studs were changed or reused.

Yes, most guys report getting 2" or more with just the AC springs. Using the spacers with them would not be recommended (it'd be fine in the rear of you wanted more lift.

OMEs are 140 lbs/in. Yes, that link is for the AC ones.

Oops, try this instead: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291636320373

Well, the "real" Rugged Ridge ones are way overpriced, but you just need to find the generic ones, which are usually under $90. The only difference between the two is a logo sticker. For example, these: http://www.ebay.com/itm291636320373.

I don't think it'd be too tough to grind out. When guys have been doing the Titan wheel swap (or similar), where they have to bore out the hole, they use a router with guide roller on the bit. A Dremel probably wouldn't be terrible. Just be mindful of heat in both scenarios, as it may damage the finish on outside of the center cap hole. For the center cap, you could probably just put a thick o-ring around the recessed part and just wedge it in. I know you got a good deal on the hubs, but couldn't you also return them (or resell them) and go with the other hub style and save all the trouble?

Yeah, an aftermarket radio—even an inexpensive basic one—offers more features than OE these days. It might be the only place where I struggle to keep things OE. But, that said, I still have my OE Bose unit sitting around if you're interested.

Sorry Mojo, I meant that for tdurb1327 to get numbers for the AC springs. But, are you running stock springs? 100 lbs/in sounds about right for stock springs if they're worn a little...though if he just sat at the rear of the truck and not directly over the axle, that number would be a little lower than actual.