hawairish

I found that the bolts I got didn't fully clear the strut bracket up top, but close. But I wasn't under the impression that bolts with >1.5% were available...if you want 1.5-3% of camber, you'd have to buy two sets.

But is he knowledgeable about Nissans? There are very few vendors that know squat about Nissans. Rugged Rocks (Steve) and Automotive Customizers (Mike), who specialize in Nissan parts, have it listed correctly. You should talk to those guys. Again, use of the 3220 hinges on the idea that a 4-pinion carrier with 33/s side gears existed and had the same cut as the 31/s side gears. It doesn't exist. If it does, it's not discussed in any 96-04 R50/D22/WD22 FSM and not even Powertrax shows it as an application.

Thanks! And yes, there are no 33/s mechanical lockers available, not even for a Patrol (which had OE rear lockers anyway). SteeevO, owner of Rugged Rocks and a member/vendor here, had been pushing to make this happen with a couple manufacturers for about a decade now. When I last chatted with him about it last year, the initial and minimum order quantities seemed too risky to move it forward. The Powertrax catalog doesn't show this as fitting 33/s, either. It may have been an early misapplication by Richmond/Powertrax or vendors, but that's been corrected by Powertrax. Not sure why it continues to be cross-listed. You could theoretically broach 31/s side gears to be 33/s, but the spline diameters are too close and the metal too hardened to be able to reasonably do that. And then, you'd need someone with the right broaching die and machine...good luck finding that guy. Still, I'm 99.9% sure it won't work. You'd think it'd be spline-agnostic because it reuses the OE side gears, but here's why it doesn't work: I found no proof of a 4-pinion open carrier with 33/s side gears ever existed. All the vehicles with 33/s H233B (all R50 Pathfinder, some D22 Frontiers, all WD22 Xterras) used a 2-pinion open carrier or the LSD. Although the LSD carrier is 4-pinion and came with 33/s side gears, the 3220 is too large for it. 33/s side gears have rounded teeth while 31/s have a sharper cut. The 3220's drivers wouldn't mesh properly. The 3220 drivers won't fit into the 2-pinion carrier. Precise1 provided some dimensions and pics for the 3220 on one of my other posts. I compared them against the LSD side gears in a reply. You can also see the 33/s side gears in post #4 on this thread. That said, the .1% is reserved for an IDGAF moment where you just put the 2-pinion 33/s side gears into the 4-pinion open carrier and use it as is. My cross-referencing suggests it could all physically fit and work to some degree, but it'd surely fail soon after.

Here's where the magic happens... Kinda hard to see, but the area around the boss on that socket bolt in the center is a bit rough. Manufacturing defect, but no impact on function. The guts. Beef Supreme! Seriously, these internals look robust. No plastic inside (I wonder if all the ARBs have a plastic internal cage?) . That ring (spur?) gear is one thick sucker. Side gear: This might explain better how it works... This ring on the outside of the locker is moved by the actuator (slides up and down in relation to the picture; shown down/disengaged) is moved by the actuator: When the actuator is disengaged, the ring gear is disengaged from the side gear, and the locker is unlocked (open): When engaged, the ring gear slides around the side gear, keeping it stationary to the housing and locking the differential: ... First impressions...this looks awesome. I'd love to have a newer ARB to do a side-by-side, but this makes my (older) ARB RD107 look like a Chinese knock-off! The sliding mechanism moves very freely. Aside from the cosmetic defect above, it's solid. I like that it includes a thick rubber hose for connecting to the housing, offering far more protection from line damage. Not sure if I'll use it on the barbs without hose clamps, which weren't included. I won't be using the bulkhead fitting, though...nothing wrong with the pieces, but except that it's 1/4" BSPP threaded, and I'm not going to buy a tap for it when I already have a 1/4" NPT tap (and conveniently, a spare ARB bulkhead kit). The bearings that are included have a 50mm ID, which is larger than OE (can't get a good measurement right now, but guessing about 6-8mm smaller ID). The included bearings are made in Japan by Nachi (p/n E32010J), which was surprisingly easy to find on Amazon, though the low price (~$25) seems low. But hey...bearings included! The solenoid seems a bit cheaper than the ARB and MAC, but then again...if it works, that's all I care about. Everything else with the kit seems like good stuff. Price-wise, $694 for the TJM vs. $950 for an RD135 ARB...I'll take that chance. I've dropped at least another $200 in just fittings, manifolds, pressure sensors, valves, compact manifolds, 1/2 gallon air tank...it really adds up quickly! But, I think I'll be pleased with the system when all is said and done. I may as well turn this into a my install thread... For pneumatics, it'll be plumbed to allow for tire inflation still, and with a tank will provide enough reserve for the lockers for several engagements, I'd think. The MAC solenoids will allow me to purge off the 'chambers' before and after my check valve. This will prevent the compressor from hi-load (backpressure) at start-up (I don't think this is an issue with an ARB compressor, but I'm not running one). For electronics, I won't be using Carling switches. Instead, I'll be using the All-Mode switch found in other R50/QX4 models in the following manner: 2WD = OFF (system purge) AUTO = Compressor on (with 70/100 pressure switch) 4HI = Rear locker 4LO = Rear + Front lockers The transfer case controller normally controls the logic for each dial position, but if I understand the circuit correctly from the FSM, a pair of diodes will get me the effect I need. It'll look completely stock of course, and should have all the safety features I need...though I might put a separate switch upstream as a 2nd layer. I would have no reason to run the front locker by itself. To fit in in the dash bezel, all I need to do is replace the lower bezel insert with this: I'm still waiting on a lot of parts before I can tackle this, but hopefully I can at least have the locker in the axle by week's end, and then plumb/wire everything up soon after. Stay tuned!

Alright, here it is! Includes: Locker 6mm x 15m air hose 1/4" x 1m rubber hose (attaches to bulkhead, then adapts to 6mm...more on that later) 2x bearings (yes, they are different from OE) ring gear bolts solenoid fittings actuator actuator bracket w/ hardware Carling switch base (looks like it has a red illumination LED, and a green "on" LED) Carling switch paddle ("TJM PRO LOCKER REAR") bulkhead fitting, barbed fittings, and other related pieces bumper sticker (like an actual bumper sticker, not something cooler like a vinyl cutout) I guess extrusion machines (or is it, "equiment"?) don't have spell-check. For reference, ARB uses 5mm hose, while TJM 1-ups them at 6mm. More pics of the locker to follow, but here's a comparison of an ARB seal housing vs. TJM actuator: The mechanical function between the ARB and TJM is very similar, it's just how the air is used to move the mechanisms. The ARB seal housing routes the air inside the locker (sealed by two large o-rings), applies pressure to a large rubber-coated washer/seal, which moves a cage (plastic in the RD107 for an R200A, btw) and engages the gears. The TJM keeps the air external to the locker, moving the fork-like piece on the actuator against a sliding ring, when then engages the locker (the pictures below will probably explain this better). From L-R: MAC, TJM, and ARB solenoids: I'll be using a pair of the MAC solenoids to purge the lines when the system is idle or off. More on that later...

Not "longer"...just "camber bolts". Amazon or eBay. 14mm. I bought these and this generic set for cheaps. You can run two sets, but you should only need one set (set = 2 bolts, 2 washers, 4 alignment washers).

More than you wanted to know probably.

Exactly...if there's even a tiny amount of friction on the side gears with a clutch pack, and it's enough to overcome the rotational resistance of the driveshaft in neutral, then the driveshaft would rotate while both tires rotated in the same direction. If the driveshaft was in park/gear, though, it'd look like an open because the spiders would allow for it, but you'd have some resistance in turning. If it turns easily in that scenario, it's definitely open.

Sorry, wasn't disagreeing with you on it being from a C200. BTW, I posted up some pics the other day of the H233B carriers here. Notice that the 4-pinion open is strikingly similar to the C200.

I don't doubt that's a C200 carrier. Looks like my R200A open carrier, in fact (as it should): But I presume your diff was from your 88? By the late 90's, Nissan had three C200 carriers: 2- and 4-pinion open carriers, and a 4-pinion LSD. (The H233B did the same thing...late 80's/early 90's had 2-pinion open, then they went to 4-pinion for a while, then back to 2-pinion. LSD carrier remain unchanged.) Using a 1998 Frontier as an example, here's the 2wd's 2-pinion carrier: But here's the 4wd's 4-pinion open carrier: Although FSM diagrams should only be taken at face value, the shape of the "differential case RH" piece is pretty distinctive, and both diagrams appear fairly accurately. The final years of the 1st gen Frontier and Xterra, 2004, have the same 2wd vs 4wd open carrier, except by then there was a C200 LSD (and it used the same H233B LSD internals, as stated earlier). Of course, it's hard to know what Nissan did with the Terrano post-1995 (up to 2004?), but they presumably stuck with the same available drivetrains of the WD21, Hardbodies, Navara/Frontier, and Xterra at the time. Still, I don't think that's the C200 LSD carrier, just the 4-pinion open.

Looking good! I like the color...might just be the sky or something, but is it more blue than purple? I think it's the same color as my Frontier.

Not if it uses the same LSD internals as the H233B (which it does according to the parts websites I use...but seeing as it's a 1999 WD21...who knows!). No springs there, though; works entirely on compression and friction. Can't say I've seen a C200 LSD, though, but that particular carrier looks exactly like a scaled down version of the 4-pinion open that came in H233B. That's why I'm not sure it's an LSD (and it sounds like it's behaving like an open). Those 5 little dots you see in the center would be oil at the ends of the splines as it rests against the thrust block.

Yesterday, pulled down the front diff and uninstalled the Lokka. It's going to a good home. Then, prepped the axle housing for the ARB. Just waiting on new bearings...and a ton of other crap. Later today, planning to press together the rear disc brake and axle shaft assemblies. It's going to be a busy busy week.

I didn't realize the WD21 existed after 95, but I'm seeing Philippine classifieds for a them for up to 04. Interesting! So there wasn't an R50 there? Thanks for clarifying the bottle jack test. Thanks for the other pic, but it's inconclusive. I'd need to see the RH side of it, away from the gear. I can see that it uses a thrust block and runs 4.875 gears (39:8), though.

Not familiar with bottle jack test. What year is your truck? Looks like the diff cover has been repainted and the original sticker was taped back on. Also did a little more research...as far as I can tell, the C200 LSD also uses H233B LSD internals, surprisingly. I'd expect the carriers to look similar, in that case, but it doesn't look like it's got the right clearances for clutch packs. Got any close-up pics?

Hmmm. Oddly it looks like the 4-pinion carrier found in the H233B (for certain yours is a C200), but the sticker is usually a tell-tale of LSD. Perhaps it is? Was the truck in park when you tried the test? Try putting it in neutral...if the tires spin together while the driveshaft rotates, I'd stand corrected.

My guess at failure source is a sheared cross-shaft (all I could find of it is that little 1.5" piece), judging by the wallowed-out thrust washers. Who puts a 3.35 (47:14) gear ratio in a full-size 4wd truck anyway? Oh right... Nissan...

They just couldn't fulfill the order and strung me along about it. At first they said there was an issue at their manufacturing plant that created a backorder (yet it was in-stock when I ordered). They didn't even let me know when they knew about it, took them a few days to even respond to my initial inquiry email. By the time they said they could ship it, I was traveling so we arranged for them to hold the shipment for a few days. When I got back, no locker, no emails. Few more days waiting for their reply. Then a few more. Then a few more. They didn't answer any of my emails within 2 weeks. I had to contact them on FB because they stopped replying to emails. All I wanted for them was to communicate a date and ship it. Then it took them another week or so to refund me. Compared to last year: both duke90 and I ordered ours on the same day, and both arrived at my house in 4 days.

I'm at the junkyard right now, and guess what I found? A 2005 Titan with the M226 and all that's left of a busted crosshaft, and toasted pinion. I'll post some pics later.

C200, open. No orange sticker on the diff cover, I presume?

Yeah, Chris did have a 12-year head start in me, of course. Still can't believe his work didn't show up on my searches. Just happy to be able to expand on the options for those who might be interested. Happier to not have had to scrap the project altogether.

No, I don't think swapping in another axle is practical or beneficial. Time, effort, and money for this swap are pale in comparison to a full axle swap. You'd be better off just doing an air or e-locker if considering that scenario. One phrase I surprisingly didn't use in my write-up—and really should have—is that the above is 100% bolt-on. Perhaps a little more involved than air/e-locker install (because you don't need to disassemble the axle shaft assemblies at all), but the same or simpler in all other aspects (again, no plumbing, no electrical). There's also no fabrication, no grinding, no drilling, no filing...seriously, completely bolt-on using off-the-virtual-shelf lockers, OE/aftermarket replacement parts, and minimal donors parts (namely, the axle shafts and carrier, if needed). But, for additional reinforcement to my answer: Nissan e-Lockers didn't surface until after 2005, when models had the M226. But, it's a completely different differential/axle. People heard "Dana" and went ape-shix about it. Whoopty-do! It's a shame that it got more aftermarket support than almost two-decades worth of H233B simply because it's a Dana 44 derivative (yet is not like other D44 out there). I'm not even remotely convinced that the M226 is better than an H233B, either. Nissan Nut has a side-by-side comparison of ring gears, and despite being 6mm different in bolt-ring diameter, the H233 ring still dwarfs it. (Yeah, size matters here.) Early M226 e-lockers were apparently plagued by weak spider gears that failed under moderate use. Nissan Nut documents it in the link above. He didn't even bother repairing it (parts didn't exist at the time...not sure if they even do now, but I understand there was an improved OE locker that eventually came out). I've also seen numerous reports of busted side gears and stripped axle splines as well. Can't say the same for H233B (but assuredly it has happened). Supposing the M226 axle was a viable option, you'd need the entire axle to make it work. Outside of the custom fabrication required to mount it up, you'd still need to resolve wheel pattern discrepancies (6x4.5 vs. 6x5.5), and presumably adapt the driveshaft flanges, at minimum. The ABS system is likely different, too. Parking brakes, too. I don't even know if the axles are the same width. But, point is, you'd have to factor in far more things to make it work for any pre-2005 applications, and it'd essentially be a downgrade in overall axle strength. Personally, I think Nissan really crapped the bed with everything after the 2005MY. The VQ40DE is a stroked VQ35DE, but was plagued by the SMOD (strawberry milkshake of death). The aluminum front R180 case (previously steel and similar to the R200 case) had a tendency to self destruct. The M226...see above. The R51 Pathfinder got a narrow-box center-mount R200 with long CVs and IRS, common in style to those only found historically on Nissan cars...the Armada went the same route, but at least had a differential (R230) on par with the H233B. Even the C200K found in Frontiers and Xterras was subtly different enough from the previous C200/R200A. Lastly, comparing the ring gear size of the R52 Pathfinder with the H233B is like comparing a tennis ball to a bowling ball. It all just reads like 2005 = downgrade to me. Admittedly, I think the looks improved, though. But, I'll never stop believing that 1988-2004 is the Golden Era of Nissan trucks. Even my 1998 Frontier 2wd with H190A rear only just failed a few months ago after 18 years and well over 200K miles, going through a "fun" period (my late teens and early 20's) that saw a 20% larger tires (that's a 31" tire from a stock 26") on stock 3.9 gears, suspension lifts, tons of jack-rabbit starts and washboard roads, and a few clutch burn-ups trying to get unstuck from obstacles. Yet a "Dana 44" can't survive half those numbers with a locker designed to be used in a slow speed, low-gear applications with more torque? It indeed blows thou mind. Long story short: I wouldn't use anything other than an H233B on the truck.

Is this worth it? In a nutshell: yes, if the end goal is to simply be locked. Not factoring the costs of installation, consumable items that would be required for either installation (like bearings, fluids, etc.), and assuming everything ships free, the true costs of an air locker (plus compressor) or e-locker setup easily doubles or triples the cost of this swap, quickly exceeding $1100 in just core parts (and not counting other pneumatic parts you may need; the E-locker is about $1150). Assuming this project went without issue, we were in just over $450; $250 for the locker (after rebate) + $200 for the axle shaft assemblies...but let’s just round up to $500 for the sake of argument. Consumables for either install are closer to $200. Not sure labor rates, but wild guess at $300-$600 if you had to pay someone to do it. I bought myself a 12-ton HF floor press for $100 so that I could do all the press work myself. Mechanical lockers have their own “character” at times, and require a different mindset when driving with them. They’re not for everyone, though. Personally, my front Lokka has been great but I’ve not dealt with it under rear-like conditions since my manual hubs effectively disable it on the street. Of course, you pay a premium for selectability when it comes to lockers. But, you also pay a premium for complexity to both plumb the pneumatics and wire the electricals. I’m switching to dual air lockers soon (for other reasons) and I’ve spent the past several days figuring out just the pneumatic side from my existing onboard setup that was initially meant for tire inflations. Talk about hell trying to create a system that’s mainly NPT when ARB uses BSPT and UNF connections and a non-standard 5mm air hose. I can’t even tell what TJM uses and everything needs an adapter because nothing is the same size. And if the acronyms get the better of you, let’s just it’s all BS and it can KMA and STFU AFAIK. I’m just glad I know more about circuits than pneumatics. But basically, there are no wires or air required for a mechanical locker. That’s a selling point in itself. … Anyway, if you made it this far, I’m sorry. Long read, I know. You were warned. See TL;DR above. Questions?

#2: Mechanical lockers and differential carriers As stated above, there are a few locker options, which I’ll detail here a little. Each option determines which carrier you can use. Basically, you need an open carrier and there are two options: 2-pinion: These featured a bar-type cross-shaft and two spider gears in a solid 1-piece carrier. They are found in all R50 and W/D22/U models with 4.363, 4.636, and 4.9 ratios. 4-pinion: These feature a cross-type cross-shaft and 4 spider gears in a 2-piece clamshell-style carrier that bolts together. They came with 4.375 and 4.625 gears. They look very similar to the LSD carriers, except the core of it is wider and fills more of the the ring gear. It looks like this: For comparison, the LSD carrier (found on all of the aforementioned trucks) has a smaller core and won’t work here: And here are your locker options... Spartan Locker Price: $283 @ eBay, Amazon P/N: SL-NPATROL-31 Fits: 2-pinion This was the cheapest option at the time of R&D, as it had a $35 rebate (and came with a beer koozie...score!). This is what TowndawgR50 is installing. Despite being marketed for Patrols, the 31/s Patrol carrier is a derivative of the R50 carrier...uses the same bearings, spider gears, and even pinion shaft (I confirmed this with Nissan’s European parts catalog)...see the Lokka description below. During R&D, we discovered we needed thrust washers to get within install spec, despite the instructions saying to not re-use the OE thrust washers. Unfortunately, all available OE washers are too thick. I tried this with two R50 carriers; same results. TowndawgR50 found a place that has some non-OE options, though. Comes with a new cross-shaft. The installation on this was pretty convenient, too...Spartan has a unique design where you can depress the pins into the drivers and hold them in place with little wire dowels. When everything is installed in the carrier, you just pull the dowels to release the pins into place. (In comparison, other lockers tend to need some grease and a flat screwdriver to push into place.) Fitment in an R50 carrier: Side gear comparisons (OE top, Spartan bottom): Lokka Price: $272-$277 @ Lokka P/Ns: NIS-FO-160 (Y60), NIS-FO-242 (Y61) Fits: 2-pinion This is what I was planning to run, but Lokka screwed the pooch here. My front Lokka has been great, so I presume this would have been great too. Didn’t get to test this out firsthand, unfortunately. Fitment should be the same as the Spartan, but unsure if thrust washers would be an issue. The two R50 Lokkas I’ve installed used them and were within spec. Not sure if this comes with a new cross-shaft, but I doubt it. As you can see in this Patrol-specific Lokka installation guide, that open carrier looks exactly like the R50 one above. Lock Right 3210 Price: $355 @ eBay, Amazon P/N: LR-3210 Fits: 2-pinion The most expensive of the lunchbox-style lockers, but I’ve seen them with $35 rebates recently, too. Not to be confused with the 3220. The notable about this was that it was erroneously marketed to a bunch of Nissan trucks and SUVs as fitting 33/s axles for some reason. Definitely not the case. And since the W/D21 (maybe some late 80’s ones?) and the Unicorn #1 trucks didn’t appear to use 2-pinion carriers, and this was made for the NA market...I have no clue what this was really supposed to fit! But, if it’s 31/s and 2-pinion, I’m confident it’ll fit the 2-pinion carrier. Whether or not it needs different thrust washers... Lock Right 3220 Price: $271 @ eBay P/N: LR-3220 Fits: 4-pinion Also had a $35 rebate recently. This locker is unique from the previous 3 in that it reuses the OE side gears. It’s also the only one requiring the 4-pinion carrier. Same functional concept, though. Of the 4 so far, this seems like the only one that is confirmed to fit the applications in which it is listed. Nissan Nut has installation steps here. Detroit Locker Price: $450-$625 @ AC, $650 @ Rugged Rocks, $590 @ Summit P/N: 187SL167A Fits: 4-pinion ($450) -or- sold as a complete differential replacement ($590-$650+) I’ve heard that these are hard to find, but seems that everyone still sells them. AC is the only place that lists the innards (“while supplies last”); if you go this route, this just installs in the 4-pinion carrier. Otherwise, you can buy the complete assembly and it just replaces your entire carrier, regardless if it’s LSD or not. I’ve always heard good things about Detroits, but this probably isn’t the most cost-effective option here. That all said... If you have a 2-pinion open diff, the best option is probably the Lokka (hoping that it doesn’t need thrust washers). For anything else, consider sourcing a 4-pinion carrier and getting the Lock Right 3220. FWIW, my local junkyard charges about $150 for a complete 3rd-member assembly. At this point, you’ll need the know-how to install the locker into the carrier, and set backlash on the gears. Much of that information is online or in the FSM.

The Hardware… The hardest part might be sourcing the shafts. I can tell you firsthand that Unicorn #1 seems a little hard to find. Possibly due to limited sales, but Nissan reliability (of course!). I feel I’ve seen more Unicorn #2 trucks since making the discovery. The best way check a donor is by VIN. Go to NissanPartsDeal.com, enter the VIN, and go to the Axle & Suspension > Rear Axle section, and look up part code 38162 (can’t miss it on the diagram). If it matches the above part numbers, you’re in luck. If it returns p/n 38164-VE060, try again, because that’s the 33/s shaft. I recommend getting the entire axle shaft assembly (shaft + brakes) if you can. Parts like the ABS tone rings aren’t cheap, and they will be re-used. If using Unicorn #1 shafts, you need/want the following new items: Wheel bearing x2: 43210-42G10 (or W/D21 aftermarket equivalent) Axle lock washer x2: 43069-R9000 (OE Nissan; this should be replaced whenever the bearing is pulled) Oil seal x2: 43252-VW000 (previously 43252-01G00; or W/D21 aftermarket equivalent. This installs at the end of the axle tube and is required since the axle shaft has a slightly smaller diameter) Grease seal x2: 43232-01G10 (or any H233B aftermarket equivalent. Despite some different p/ns, they’re exactly the same, and several RockAuto options do cross-list them.) If using Unicorn #2 shafts, you need/want the following new items: Wheel bearing x2: 43210-0W000 (or R50/D22/WD22 aftermarket equivalent) Axle lock washer x2: 43234-0W000 (OE Nissan) Oil seal x2: 43252-0W000 (or R50/D22/WD22 aftermarket equivalent) Grease seal x2: 43232-01G10 (or any H233B aftermarket equivalent) Basically, Unicorn #1 uses W/D21 and 31/s D22 parts. Unicorn #2 uses R50 and 33/s D22 parts. Everything else from the axle can (and basically will) be re-used, including the ABS tone rings. Now’s also a good time to replace two O-rings (43085-42G00) found at each end of the axle tube, as well as a new diff gasket (38320-T3322)...I don’t recommend RTV here. At this point, everything from the axle shaft assemblies are broken down to the bare shafts and re-assembled to fit an R50. You’ll need to transfer over your brake backing plates, as the Frontiers have different parking brakes, to the 31/s shafts. (Of course, if you have a Frontier or Xterra, you should be able to just swap the entire assembly over as-is and not replace anything, except the oil seal if using Unicorn #1. Unicorn #2 would be the best bet. However, there were two styles of parking brakes: one resembles a Toyota setup with a single cable that goes across the axle, and the other has two separate cables leading to a point above the driveshaft. The Unicorn #1 shafts had the former style, but I think all other Frontiers and Xterras had the latter style. Lastly, if you’re putting these shafts in a 2wd truck with the H233B, you don’t need the ABS tone rings...your tone ring is on the 3rd member near the pinion flange.)