hawairish

Well, drove it around a bit, and there's a little chatter. Not terribly overbearing, but noticeable even on flat roads. It can be drowned out with a little stereo volume. I'm ok with it, I just feel better having the sway bar back on at this point (the difference was noticeable on the first turn.) I think I may revisit a previous idea to use some sort of bungee or spring to compress the link together, essentially keeping the balls seated into the sockets. I think it's just the 180° joint that's making the noise, so I may even just make that end a 90° and fashion an L mount for it.

Go for it, though I doubt they'll give two farts about it. All the application data comes in from various sources, and that data probably lacks all the other/correct values that would normally lump it under the 5.6L subgroup. It's a little surprising to see that not all of the wheels hubs listed for the 3.5L don't also appear under the 5.6L, though, but that's also an error. Bottom line is that the Armada was the only 5.6L "Pathfinder" in 2004, and no R50s used bolt-on style wheel hub assemblies like that. The R50 wheel hub attaches to the spindle using a single wheel bearing lock nut.

That Timken wheel hub (and all those wheels hubs shown erroneously under the 3.5L) are for the 2004 Pathfinder Armada. The 2004 application listings for the Pathfinder and Armada are screwy across the board...they basically list the Pathfinder has having both 3.5L and 5.6L engines because the Armada was just an edition like SE or LE, despite being a completely different truck. Nissan dropped Pathfinder from the name in 2005, but don't be surprised if your the parts counter rep still asks if your 04 has a V6 or V8. And yes, you just need to replace the bearings. There are two per hub (inner and outer). Some don't come with races, and it's recommended to replace them as sets...check the RA descriptions and pics to see what's included. These are what I installed on my buddy's 02 a couple months ago: WJB WTLM300811, front outer (race only) WJB WTA37, front inner (bearing and race) WJB WTLM300849, front outer (bearing only) There's also a wheel seal (grease seal) to replace. I used SKF 22230, but any labeled as "front" or "front inner"will do. See AX-7 for the component breakdown: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2004_Pathfinder/ax.pdf

Can't help with tank placement, but if it's just for filling tires, you could go tankless. I use the same compressor as KovemaN, but mine's mounted and hardwired. The compressor is rather quick, too. The problem with a tankless setup is that you need to control the compressor in some way...it'll obviously keep trying to pump air into a closed line when you remove the tire chuck. I use an adjustable pressure relief valve off a tee. When the line backs up to the set pressure, it just blows it off. This way I can leave the compressor running, drag my hose around the vehicle, attach to tire (this lock-on chuck has been great, btw), disconnect to check pressure, re-attach hose, etc.

Specifically for the rear, since you plan to carry/haul loads, I'd recommend either the OME springs or AirLift bags. Rear spacers alone won't improve ride quality or load handling. If you have the 2" spacers and don't need more lift than that, then consider stock components. Or consider just using the individual 1" spacers to dial-in the ride height. The OMEs (springs, shocks, and struts) will do great, but are the pricier option. You may find that 2" front spacers on KYB struts with stock springs and 1" rear spacers with OME springs or 2" rear spacers, AirLift, and stock springs produces something suitable for your DD. (No matter which route you go on the rear, you'll also want to consider longer shocks.)

Thought I'd give a follow-up on this install. It's been almost a year and the carrier has held up just fine, with a few observations and changes... I did eventually reinforce the area where the latch striker mounts because of the slight bending that was occurring. This area must've also been reinforced from the factory. I didn't take any pics for some reason of the fix (I'll try to remember next time I pull the bumper), but I took a piece of 1.5" x 1.5" angle aluminum, trimmed .5" off one side to get an "L" shape, the riveted the face and bottom to the chassis. I only exposed enough hole for the bolt, effectively sandwiching the blind nuts. This will definitely hold up. I also did mount one of my leftover liftgate struts to the arm. I bought some ball studs from McMaster-Carr, perfect fit for the strut. You probably won't be able to use this if you didn't change the hinge pins to bolts like I did, since this allows me to tension it just by tightening the bolts. Otherwise, the gate will fly open! The leftover strut doesn't hold it open, but a new one would probably do the trick. It does, however, open smoothly and on it's own if I just give it a little nudge. I wore through the paint a little on the plastic trim piece above the license plate area on the liftgate. It rubs on the back of the release handle on the gate, which also has a little wear. I knew it was close, but the plastic has worn down just enough that it's no longer a problem. I think I mentioned it earlier, but the liftgate on older R50 (and also QX4) is different from the later R50. I don't think you'd have the rubbing problem on the older R50. But one thing mentioned from another post is that the QX4 has the reverse lights next to the license plate, so the tire would block them if you did this mod. You'd have to swap taillights and re-wire, or come up with some custom reverse lighting solution (or perhaps the taillight harness already has the backup leads?).

There's apparently a new player in the spacers market on eBay. Mine are from "hoepkers", but there's now an "allroads-inc" seller to check out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/282075830080 http://www.ebay.com/itm/272226007774 I do question the 2nd seller a little because they have separate listings for front and rear spacers and have the images incorrect (rear spacers being sold as front spacers). He's also offering 2.5" front spacers too, but that's too much IMO without needing an SFD. The truck in the listing looks familiar...I've seen it around here somewhere.

Where'd you end up welding to? I feel like the attachment tubes may be too long...if the truck were to rest on the outermost rail, that's a lot of leverage at the mounting point. If it doesn't cause damage there, it seems like it could pin up against the rocker panel, no?

They'll still fit, but you'll lose that 1.5-2 in shock travel (extension). It's recommended that you get longer shocks, but you won't find anything R50-specific. There are Bilstein part numbers floating around, some guys (including self) use shocks for older F250 trucks. I'd recommend the former option if within budget.

Glad I'm not the only one. My cabin does eventually cool down, but with our summer heat, it's not surprising if my long drives (recently a 2hr drive down to Tucson) require full AC/re-circ the entire drive. Black leather seats probably don't help much either. Conversely, my wife's Sorento cools down within minutes. Middle row pillar vents, more powerful blower, rear AC, and darker tint. The only thing it lacks is crotch AC.

Strut spacers have no impact on the ride quality or strut top out. They don't change the characteristics of anything...it's just a static lift height. You might need longer rear shocks if you use spacers there. You should have no problems running stock rims. The reason they mention it is because when you lift the front, the wheel moves down and inward relative to the chassis, which means your tires may rub somewhere when turning. You can accomplish the same thing with wheel spacers, if desired/necessary. The OME kit does not require new wheels...but if you get larger tires, you may need new wheels or wheel spacers to move the tire away from the lower spring perch on the strut. As for the kits...do you need to replace everything? I would only replace what is really necessary, and if that's the case, you can save money buying less parts. Opinions on Moog here will vary...personally, I have no problem with other brands, and since sites like Rock Auto provide actual parts pictures, it's easy to see when one part might be better than another, or have desired features.

One year later, here we are again. A few months ago, I had a pucker moment on the freeway that gave me enough reason to just put my sway bar back on (I've had it off for a several months now). I swerved away from a vehicle that was coming into my lane hard and was oblivious that I was already there...swerved, then counter-swerved...I'm lucky I didn't take out another nearby car. I'm confident my sway bar would've made that a safer experience. I've been sitting on these crappy Steinjäger/MCP joints ever since. Their customer service is the suck, and I flat out got tired of dealing with their people, emails, and BS. I'm not fond of the joints (see my posts above, plus a couple more here). But in reality, since I wanted to put my sway bar back on, all I really need wre just some slightly longer end links. Seeing as I had all the materials already, I gave things a shot today. 180° joints on the stock hangers. The studs on the joints are 1/2", and because the hanger seats rubber bushings on the OE end link, the hole is actually larger than 1/2", which means no drilling. However, the hanger also has cupped mounts (the top is cupped, and the bottom has an integrated cupped washer), so I used 1/2" thick washers on both sides to create flat surfaces, which I used serrated flange nuts with. The sway bar ends fit 10mm studs, so they were drilled out to 1/2" and the 90° joints secured with a nylock nut. The flange nut had too wide of a diameter to be useful here. The detachable link is just threaded run and flange nuts. One obvious flaw with the joints here is that they have no way to put a wrench on them when use the flange nut as a jam nut. They're snugged up, but there's really no twisting motion when the sway bar is cycled. There's about 1-1/8" of threaded portion in each joint end. Driver's side installed. Passenger side installed. Removing and installing them is quite quick as you can see. Of course, this requires laying on the ground, reaching around the tire, and fishing one arm up there. The spring on the 90° joint is far stiffer than the spring on the 180°. It's a little tougher getting the 90° joint off without a glove, but I also have some small concerns about pinch points. I've not taken it for a drive yet. When shaking the sway bar, the upper joint did rattle a little. But unless the entire bar is rattling, I don't anticipate enough noise to bother me. I'll follow up when I do take it for a ride. I also had to rotate the 180° joint's opening a specific way because of design/manufacturing shortcomings on the joint. Only under a certain orientation with the ball stay centered in the socket with the slight angle of the link. With the way it's oriented, it has the best chance to stay centered or re-center on travel. When removed, the bar will rotate down and rest on the 3rd member, which isn't desirable. For now, I'm not worrying about it...I don't plan to have it disconnected anytime soon. I just needed longer links, and these are about 3" longer to account for that amount of lift I have. But when I do circle back on it, I'll revisit ideas on how to pin it up or how to let it rest on the 3rd member.

Not that I know of, though there are several N4W'ers in the metro, and an event is coming up. I'm just north of you, Cactus/303. Maybe we resurrect the AZ roll-call thread in the Southwest region section?

I face a similar problem, but I think it's just the nature of the truck (insulation wise) and not any mechanical problem. Weather here this time of year is in the 110°-120°F (43-49°C) and I find that my truck just can't keep up cooling the interior, but it blows nice cold air just fine. When it's closer to 100°, it's more efficient of course. The difference is "hot" vs. "damn hot" in my case. Doesn't look like Dubai is too far off from those numbers.

It's below the pre-tensioner at the bottom of the B-pillar. If you have a 2001, see RS-13: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2001/rs.pdf If you have a 2001.5, see RS-14: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/rs.pdf They should be very similar or the same systems, but I'm not sure the mfg date cut-off. 07/01 or 09/01?

Sorry for the previous dud post. I originally mentioned you could just punch the tone ring off, but then I realized I was thinking of my wife's car. On the Pathfinder, the ABS tone ring is pressed onto the wheel hub, not the CV. So, you won't find any CVs with tone rings installed...and consequently, when swapping it, you won't even need to deal with it.

Edited: Disregard.

I made my own using Google Sheets to also factor in gear changes

No amount of forewarning can prepare you for exploring your woman's purse. I call my wife's purse "The Bear Trap" for a reason...sharp zipper with sharp sub-zippers flanked by uncapped pens. And yeah, I hear you about electrical connections. I tend to be good about figuring them out, but they drive me ape-shi...

Lol. In the interior of a woman's purse is a mysterious place. I trust no key fob there. Time to double check that the system is working like it's supposed to...at least that way, you can rule out if the anti-theft module itself is malfunctioning and contributing to the problem. Then go basic...continuity checks on switches and grounding the wires.

Unlocking using the key in the door or with key fob is supposed to disarm it. Thinking way outside of the box for a moment...how's the condition of your key fob? For those times you aren't home, is your key fob also home? What if the key fob was sending a panic signal, perhaps from the inner contact film being worn? That's something that could trigger the alarm without it being locked. Do you have a cat that likes red buttons on key fobs?

According to the FSM, the horn between the battery and fuse box is the only one related to the alarm. You could just unplug that for the time being, especially for testing. Ha...reminds me of my other weekend...kid neighbor's car kept going off and it was driving me nuts while I was working in my garage. He was having alarm issues, too, and couldn't start his Tiburon. Must've been going on for an hour. Normally I'd help, but I'm not fond of this neighbor. The whole time I kept thinking, "just disconnect the damn horns!". So eventually, the kid comes over (he knows I'm always working vehicles) and asks for help, so I help. Guess what the first thing I did was? Disconnected the horns, of course. Just needed to have the key fob re-registered to the car...a 5-min job. Does the alarm work when it's supposed to? To test, roll down all the windows, lock the doors, reach in and open the door or pop the hood (if it has a hood switch). The Security light blinking pattern corresponds with a particular alarm state, so check the FSM for the patterns. The Owners Manual also has a good description of the system.

According to the 95 FSM, it is indeed a 4-pinion cross shaft. Not sure they make a Lokka to fit that carrier...hopefully they give you an answer soon. But even if you have to exchange it, I presume that'll take a while given international shipping. I'll drop you a PM, though. I have a spare WD21 R200A (presuming you have a V6, not 4cyl w/ R180A) with the 2-pinion carrier, and we can do an exchange.

What's the status of the Security light when the alarm is going off randomly?

No no, the switches in the door jambs. Pull the screw that holds them in, check the condition of the hole and screw (the screw is what grounds the switch to the chassis). I believe there's also a hood switch. The tailgate's switch is integrated into the latch assembly. If any of these are faulty, it'll be as if the door is being opened while the alarm is armed, which triggers the alarm.