hawairish

I noticed a difference when removing mine. It's too loose around corners for my liking, even with OMEs. My articulation was fine with it on, and I'll probably put it back on soon. Had a recent freeway event that puckered me up a bit. Guy came into my lane pretty hard at 70mph, I hit brakes and did a minor swerve, but the truck sway and countersteer almost took me back into the lane rather viciously. Close call to clipping another vehicle. I don't think it would have behaved like that with the bar still on.

Awesome, thanks!

Well, you make a point. But I'm interested in seeing the exposed area where the trailer hitch mounts, if you don't mind. Can only see so much on mine with everything still mounted.

Think you could put up a couple more pics of everything being removed? Gets me thinking about a new bumper that integrates the hitch

Wouldn't disconnect it...the ends are just going to hit the strut or LCA. You could remove it, but I think you'd be fine just tightening up the links. If you remove it, it's a good time to check out the sway bar bushings...mine also wore thin and caused a little screech and tap at times, but also allowed the bar to shift a little to one side and allow metal-metal contact.

I'm with XPLORx4; sway bar end link(s). I had a pop on mine from a loose nut. Torque to 61-76 ft-lbs.

The R50's have a bumper and bumper cover. You can remove the bumper cover and leave the bumper and it offers about the same impact protection.

Thought about it, the few times I've removed the bumper cover. The cover is just for aesthetics, of course...it'd free up some ground clearance behind the tires, but wouldn't be worth it unless I also removed my hitch.

They look exactly like mine, so I'd assume them to just be some generic set that 4wd Pros, RR, and a couple others just slap stickers on (that eventually just fall off anyway). No shortage of some on AliExpress that come without stickers.

I think all the write-ups are now lacking pics, and MY1PATH and I might be the only ones around with firsthand knowledge of the process. We took slightly different routes...he machined down an extra disc/plate as basically a half-disc, and I rearranged the stacks so that I could use one additional piece. I took this approach on two LSDs, and both have done well. I don't have a write per se, but FWIW: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40280-was-the-factory-lsds-breakaway-torque-any-good/

I can deny it. All 33-spline.

I have the RR's and have not had any problems with them.

About the hood...might seem counter-intuitive, but did you try pressing down first? Maybe a little WD40 on the latch if visible through the grille?

Put two V8s on your pathy.

There's no factory front locking diff or LSD for the QX4 or R50. Perhaps you're talking about locking hubs?

Can't help you with your actual problem, but you should be able to get all the info you need from these links: http://parts.nissanusa.com -- just key in your VIN and search. The 5-6 digit number you referenced above (21305) is just the part code. The part number is the 10-digit one with the hyphen. The part code is usually the first 5 digits of the part number, but not always. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2006_Pathfinder -- this is the Factory Service Manual (FSM). Indispensable resource. Refer to the "fwd.pdf" for the breakdown of sections. The most likely section for your problem is in to Engine Cooling System ("CO"). I use courtesyparts.com for most of my OEM part purchases ("nis10" for a discount). You can also reference part numbers there. Some of the time you can reference OEM part numbers at Rock Auto, but it depends. Some guys here have mixed emotions about RA, but I've never had a problem with them.

Whoa. So, um, yeah...you do know you'll need to provide a root-cause analysis to us on that one, someday, right? No skirting that discussion with these folks here...(welcome to the forum!). Well...I'd probably first determine which fuses are related to the All-Mode system you have and pull them. Not sure if disconnecting the switch is sufficient. I'd be disconnecting any harness that connect to the t-case (like solenoids), too, for safe measure. The front driveshaft is...obviously out of the picture already. Bottom line is that as long as nothing starts spinning that chain, it should be as 2wd as you can get it. But otherwise, I'm with Cuong regarding DIY replacement if the budget affords it. I'd guess that a local P&P has it for $100-$200, and there are plenty on eBay. Not sure how common the All-Mode TCs were in late-model PFs, but all QX4s had them (some older ones were a little different, I believe, judging by the fact they had a switch and lever before being switch-only).

Well, there you go. But...is it just the pic, or is there a lot of separation there? Would this be destined to fail again the same way, or is this a typical replacement item?

Got a pic? Sounds like the transmission mount. Does it go between the rear tail of the transmission (just before the transfer case) and a crossmember?

They came from an R50, or just another suitable Nissan? Mind snapping a pic?

R50 hubs (front and rear) are 100mm. Most Chevy and Titan/Armadas wheels are much smaller bores and won't fit. Toyotas are usually 108mm.

Which brand did you get? The actual instructions vary a little bit by brand, but the concept is exactly the same. A simple search (here or Google) should have returned several results, including a video. Have you seen this? Basic concept is you need to pull off the OE hub, figure out if you'll need to remove/replace the studs that hold it in place (depends on brand), install the splined collar and ring-clip on the CV shaft end, then put the new hub on using the hardware that comes with it.

Bummer, Virgil. An inevitable decision, though. It's been a pleasure keeping tabs on the progress, and over such a short time, too. Best of luck with the sale!

Same p/n.

Yep, they were for the Nissan Elgrand (E50). They're on eBay semi-regularly (int'l sellers), such as this set. The strut plates are different, and you can't use the rear coils because of a completely different setup (their springs mount on their trailing arms, not the axle). You could probably find suitable front springs to get some lift, but I'm not even sure the coilover is the same length. I was chatting with the guy who had the set originally; another guy on NICO now has them on his R50, but I've not looked into that any further.