hawairish

I think what he was saying is that the valve cover tube seals aren't available separately; that might be why the valve cover would need to be replaced. The spark plug tubes are readily available (p/n 11095-31U0A). There appears to be a Fel-Pro seal set on RockAuto, but the description, "For use with removable PCV Valve baffles only; w/o Welded Plastic Design" and negative Amazon reviews indicate it probably won't fit (p/n ES72481). This company and process comes up frequently on searches. I think the "removable PCV Valve baffle" mentioned above is the plastic piece that is shown with the warning "PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE BAFFLE PLATE" about 1/3rd of the way down. Judging by some eBay pics of R50-specific valve covers, ours have the plastic baffles. I wouldn't be surprised if the cheaper Fel-Pro set ($7 @ RA) could be installed in the same manner, but don't take my word on it. But, they look pretty much the same.

Definitely an interesting project. Curious to know more about the custom subframe you mentioned...any pics of other vehicles for inspiration? Why this route over something more conventional?

Got around taking the diffs apart last night, and it gets a little trickier. Keep in mind, too, that the plan is to use a W/D22 R200A, but I presume the WD21 I have is identical to it. The good news is that the R50 diff cover does indeed fit the WD21 diff, with the exception of that one bolt I mentioned. However, the 7th bolt hole leaves a small gap that will need to be plugged, and absence of flange where the bolt will go. The fill hole is at the same height as the WD21 cover. Next challenge is the passenger side oil seal. On the WD21, it's at the end of the tube. On the R50, it's next to the carrier. The R50 side shaft has a collar pressed towards the splined end that fits into the R50 seal. The WD21 side shaft only has a collar next to the bearing. However, the R50 shaft also has the same collar, in the same position, and uses the same bearing. This basically means that in order to re-use the R50 shaft, we just need an oil seal at the end. Both axles use the same oil seals, too, so things (doesn't hurt that I also have extra oil seals for these diffs laying around for getting dimensions). So, back to my approaches... I do think the best approach is to swap the axle tubes. The tube diameters where they are pressed in appears identical, clearance issues prevent exact dimensions. The WD21 has one plug weld, and the R50 has two. Once the tubes are pulled, the R50 end needs an oil seal recess milled out, then it can go back together. R50 passenger end...oil seal recess would be milled in the black part in the center: Can't see it too well, but the oil seal just inside the black area. The alternate approach is a spacer that adapts the WD21 end to the R50 side shaft end, in concept: Obviously, this would be an elaborate piece, but it would have all the right mating and mounting surfaces. You'd just bolt it to the diff, and bolt the R50 shaft to it. But this could be a rather expensive piece and requires precision. You'd also need to grind off the mounting piece on the axle tube. Now, for the driver's side. Still thinking about this one. I may need to hit the JY for the bracket that the axles mount to, see if there's another way. But ideally, a bracket will attach over the diff cover's flange using the existing bolts, and join up with the vertical cylindrical mount on the WD21 axle...however, that mount is where one of the mounting holes for the R50 diff is. Open to ideas...

No sweat, and good luck!

Don't forget you need to translate the DTC codes you get from the ECU to the P-codes, so... 0101 = P0304, Camshaft position sensor 0201 = P1320, Ignition Signal - Primary 0304 = P0325, Knock sensor These are a bit more suited to your situation. Like XPLORx4 mentioned, the camshaft position sensor is likely the culprit. That'd be where I'd start. The other two codes will likely be addressed once the engine fires up.

Sort of, but you'd also need the bumper. The 00-04 had larger bumper covers and a hidden bumper. 96-99 had an exposed bumper with a cover below it. I suppose you could swap it all over, but might look funny with the odd contours. There may even be some subtle grille or fender differences that affect fitment. But for the most part, the unibodies are same/similar.

You don't need a scanner. The procedure is in the FSM; in your case, see EC-59 for 1999 models. If you've pulled codes from another Nissan before (particularly an older one), this won't be much different. The MIL blinks any/all codes at Diagnostic Mode II (EC-60). It's a very simple pattern of long flashes and short flashes to make a 4-digit DTC code, which then needs to be translated to the more-common P-code (EC-2). If you get a 0505 code (5 long flashes and 5 short flashes), then the system didn't detect anything...but of course, that doesn't mean you don't still have a problem. If the gauge cluster responds in the On position, then the ECU can throw some codes. Turning it to Start and not getting a start-up response is also enough to trigger codes. I recommend recording the MIL flashes with your cell and then resetting the codes. You can reset the codes by following the flow chart, or retain the codes by turning the ignition to Off after you've recorded all the DTC codes (they repeat endlessly until you take an action). Just be sure the screw is fully clockwise before going back into Diagnostic Modes. I've been using this exact procedure on a 98 Frontier for the life of it (and we still have it). In fact, I never attached a scanner to it until a few months ago. A "fix" I made to the ECU long ago allows me to pull codes without a scanner or tools. But, the fix was out of necessity—I'll tell you first-hand that you don't want to break the screw off inside the ECU while in Diagnostic Mode II. (Hint: the screw is delicate.) The procedure on late-model R50s is a bit more complex, but fortunately doesn't require ECU access. I did a few times before finally getting a wifi module. Like the others have suggested, I recommend it, too. It opens up the vehicle to a lot more information, including real time values. Good luck, and report back any codes.

Are they different length struts by some odd chance? You may just need to unbolt one end of the other strut so that you can lift the tailgate a little higher. You may need to prop up the tailgate or get some help. I actually had this exact problem the other week, but on a different vehicle (changing them on my R50 has been a snap). The replacement struts were longer than OE by a full inch (despite being "OE" match), so I had to do what I described above to make it work.

Time to hit the junkyard and clip one off! Or I guess you could write on the switch cover, but what fun is that?

Yeah, it can definitely be tricky at times reading the wiring guides. You have to start from the back of the EL section to identify the harness, then check out the component section's wiring diagram, then compare all the pins and wiring colors. I always forget that color code "L" is blue! I do have auto up/down. On mine, your two harnesses are combined into my one harness.

Funny, I was getting close to cracking that from the FSM, but it took me a while to find that brown wire. You da man, Kyle.

After a quick image check via eBay, it looks like there were two different passenger door switches for an 01, perhaps from the pre- and post-facelift models. I have an 04, and seeing as I lack a brown wire, I'm guess you have the other style...

I'll see if I can get a pic for you, stay tuned...

Well...to be frank, the job sucks. Nothing makes it easy. The diff does have to be removed. Although you can reach the lower mount nuts with a ratchet over the diff and axle tube, the mounts need to be removed from the bottom of the vehicle and space is tight. Removing the diff isn't terrible, though...probably the easy thing about this job, if there is one. The real problem is that you need to separate the engine from the subframe enough so that the mount's upper and lower studs clear their mounting surfaces. This requires either lifting the engine off the subframe, or keeping the engine stationary and lowering the subframe. I had the "luxury" of dropping the subframe to change my buddy's mount, since we were installing his SFD (that's actually how we discovered it was busted). Dropping the subframe is complex. The best way to change the mounts is by lifting the engine up a little, maybe 1" or so, being mindful of everything that has to move with the engine (hoses, wires, exhaust, transmission, etc.). An engine hoist accomplishes this best, but a transmission jack could work if placed far enough forward. I've lifted and supported the engine with a floor jack...it's not fun, but doable. You'll need access from the engine bay to loosen the upper nut on the mounts. Driver's side isn't terrible after removing the intake stuff. The passenger side is tougher...there's not much that can be removed, it's a tight fit, and the exhaust manifold is right on top. If you don't plan to change the passenger mount, then you could just loosen it's lower nuts for lifting and leave the top secured...but if you've come this far, may as well change it out. That all said, you may want to crawl around under the mounts and inspect things as best you can before diving into this. I've seen others also make videos of their engine during start up and revs to see if how much it lifts to confirm if the mount my be bad.

Yes, likely. My buddy's truck was doing that...right around 2nd gear, it'd give a little pulse as if something was settling down. His driver's side motor mount had split in half.

No sweat man! To answer your question: the axle tube is only spot welded in a couple thru-holes on the diff casing. Beyond that, it's just pressed in as far as I can tell. This seems pretty typical for axles with non-removable 3rd members. But obviously, this approach requires a shop with the right tools to do this work. I came up with yet another approach the other night...one that could potentially make this entirely bolt on. The idea is to just have a one-piece extension that bolts where the CV bearing flange is, and replicates the R50's flange and mount. That way, you just swap over the R50's long shaft and bearing. To keep costs down, you could even re-use the non-R50 flange and weld on an extension directly to it (obviously, this would make it a little less bolt-on, but the weld would be a simple perimeter weld). I have to think about the stresses involved where the piece would be bolted to, though. On the drivers side, a very custom bracket would mount to the snout bolt holes and some of the diff cover's bolt holes. But at that point, you'd basically just swap over all the R50's internals and shafts to avoid having to mix and match pieces. The only things that wouldn't carry over are the R&P. This all probably doesn't make sense in words, but when I get home from this week's biz travels, I'll take things apart and get some pics. I'd definitely like to get some feedback on this and build some interest. Just imagine being able to run those 5.13's!

No problem. And for those wanting a 2.5" SFD, I used a shaft with a 4.5" finished length. However, I should note that the amount of lift is not linear with the increase in shaft length (because of the angle of the link at different SFD heights), but it's pretty close. Again, rotating the steering rack makes up for it a little.

Welcome! It's been done, at least twice that I'm aware of (by theexbrit and CDN_S4), and a 3rd install is in the works (cntryboy_88). CDN_S4 will likely chime in with more details soon. Post up in the Wanted section, or check eBay or your local JYs for the cargo cover. To post pics, you need to use a 3rd-party image host then link to the pic. I use postimage.org; tinypic.com and imgur.com are other sites...there are plenty out there. Then just use the Polaroid-looking icon to put the image URL in.

A few people have asked me about this recently. As you probably read from this thread, KrF is getting out of it and plans to produce only a few more SFDs. I don't know how they'll share that info if you don't buy their kit, but I'll tell you what I know so we're all on the same page. BTW, I obtained this info by pulling my own steering apart and doing my own research, so hopefully no one thinks I'm providing anything proprietary here. The company that manufactures the link is Woodward Steering in Wyoming, US. These guys aren't no-names in the industry. You'll need to call them to order the link. Don't be surprised if you talk to a nice lady and she just writes down your order and payment info. Their online catalog and pricing is outdated, but still is worth reading for some technical info, like how to clock the u-joints, and the proper operating angles. The assembled steering link is two u-joints and a short length of splined shaft. You order it in three separate parts: 1x UA201113 (upper u-joint, ~$70 USD) 1x UA201108 (lower u-joint, ~$70 USD) 1x "Custom UADS" (splined shaft, ~$12 USD) Shipping has been about $15-$20 for me. Since I don't run a 4" SFD, I need someone with the KrF SFD to confirm the shaft length. I estimate it at being 5.875" (5-7/8", or about 150mm). To confirm the length, measure the distance between the set screws on the joints halves that hold the splined shaft, then add 1" (this represents the additional .5" on each end of the shaft beyond the set-screw groove). Don't measure the total finished length. When you order the "Custom UADS", provide them the shaft length (not the assembled link length) and specify that they put set screw grooves on both ends 1/2" in (by default, it's only on one and you machine it to your liking). For a 3" SFD, I'm using a link with a finished length of 5". One thing to keep in mind is that, because the steering rack gets rotated, it affects the installed length of the link by upwards of 1/4" or more. You'll need to be mindful of the operating angles mentioned in the PDF I linked earlier so that it doesn't bind. As you can also correlate in the PDF, the upper splined shaft coming off our steering pivot box is 28-spline x .570". The lower spline on the steering rack is 36-spline x .688". I found that the u-joint ends for these splines needed a very light sanding with high grit emory paper to fit, because the machining on the u-joints is very clean. A 1/8" hex bit is used for set screws. I also used medium Loctite on the screws after confirming that the steering wheel is centered up (hint: take it for a test drive first). If you find that your steering wheel is off center, you need to re-index the link at top, bottom, or both u-joints. Indexing at the top joint will move it ~13° in either direction per spline, and 10° at the bottom. You may need to compound those to get the correct angle; i.e., if you're off 3°, you need to rotate the bottom joint by one spline in one direction, and the top joint by one spline in the opposite direction (13° - 10° = 3°). The direction of rotation depends which way your steering wheel is off center.

No worries, I'm not offended. I didn't take your comment as saying the Pathfinder is crap. I just don't think it's fair to judge its capabilities just because something isn't available off the shelf. I wouldn't be any more apprehensive welding to a unibody. It's still steel. It needs to be prepped, and it needs to be properly reinforced, just like any other frame. It's a different beast, no doubt, but not taboo. Bottom line is that it's what you make of it. Many guys wheel these hard without these "typical" parts. Some guys live and die by Hi-Lifts...the same guys will probably tell you they've never had to use it, or it's the last thing they'd use. Some guys do it with parts not meant for it! Recovery points are just one thing of many that any wheeler should think about it. Just because they're not on a shelf, doesn't mean we should feel SOL about it.

So let's state the obvious: every recovery situation presents its own challenges, and all parties need to be fully aware of the situation and their vehicles in order to proceed in the absolute safest manner possible. I'm not dismissing any of the aforementioned scenarios, but I think they complicate the question. Even the safest recovery effort still poses a safety risk. As for recovery points, a stock Pathfinder has none. Zero. Simple as that. But by the same token, neither does a stock Xterra, Hardbody, or probably even a Patrol. The loops at the front are solely for anchoring points. Should they be used for recovery? Probably not. Can they? Possibly, if conditions permit. Is a hitch (again, the receiver, not the ball) a recovery point? Again, no. It's ratings are based solely on towing rolling loads. Can it be used for recovery? Possibly, if conditions permit. Short of an ARB or TJM front bumper, no professionally-made item for an R50 is suitable for recovery. There is no such support. Improvisation and discretion are the best recovery tools at our disposal, but this is not uncommon for any other 4x4. Despite the unibody and strut-based IFS, I don't think this vehicle is any softer than any other Nissan in terms of off-roading. It has the same drivetrain, plus the most-powerful engine option of anything before 2004 (except maybe the VG33ER in few vehicles). It lacks a frame...so what? Call it what you will, but the unibody is the frame. Mine's rated to tow as much as any other Nissan truck/SUV, and way more than any Jeep. And it rides a helluva lot better, too (former Jeep and Frontier owner, btw).

Slight misunderstanding there. Definitely don't use the tow ball as a recovery point, but using the trailer hitch receiver as a recovery point is better than nothing (and there's nothing there without it). The OP's reason for removing it is a valid one. But I'm with NovaPath about having it vs. not having it.

Personally, I've been content with the Bose system, too. If you think it's worth keeping, definitely check out some of the used units online. May even be able to find some other units from the JY...I think units from some non-Pathfinders may be the same.

Best bet then is to find a local shop and ask around for prices. Of course, if there's no rush, you could wait for warmer weather and make some local acquaintances who might be able to help out for some pizza and beer. Fleurys (Steve), who replied to your post earlier, is having a sale on aluminum skid plates. He also sells lift spacers. I have an older set of his skid plates and they've held up well. Rocky-road.com sells sliders and the OME parts. I have their Super Sliders...they're ok; only thing I don't like is how they mount to the chassis, but otherwise they're solid.

The OMEs and Bilsteins are both good options, more so on the premium end. The OMEs struts and springs will come separate, and you'll either need to reuse parts from your current strut setup, or buy new (reuse is dependent on vehicle conditions). I'm not sure if anyone offers a "quick strut" that's install ready. But having done the procedure myself several times, rental doing compressors work just fine if you're the DIYer. As for gear, a recovery strap is a good start, at least for someone to tug you out. Sliders and skids offer that extra piece of mind. A lot of other things you might carry just really depends on your terrain.