hawairish

Yes, you definitely want a tool. Scroll up a few replies for the one on August 1st...There's a link for the tool and rivet/blind nut p/ns. The 8mm ones were for the strikers IIRC. The tool comes with the dies for setting 5/6/8/10/12mm blind nuts.

Awesome! You may also want to grab the license plate holder and wiring, just to make thinks nice and simple. I've bought some from various places, but McMaster-Carr was the best option. Avoid Fastenal if you can. http://www.mcmaster.com/#95105a199/=10lgnoe

Cool. Time to pull the door panel off and checking wires and connections. Might just be a dirty contact.

Well, welcome. Bummer that's how ownership started... How did you unlock the car without a keyfob? According to the FSM, using the key in any door is supposed to disarm the anti-theft system. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1999_Pathfinder/el.pdf I suggest looking through the "Theft Warning System" and possibly "NVIS" sections of the FSM. You can't exactly just unplugged the modules to fix things unfortunately. There are multiple modules that control everything you're experiencing. On a side note, how did this not get discovered pre-purchase? And no keyfob? You can buy them on eBay and program them to truck without visiting the dealership (instructions in that link). Of course, you should find out if your model even came with power door locks.

Well, there's a catch: it may only be beneficial for lifted vehicles. For most trucks/SUV, moving the lower mount up would mean a 4-6" shorter shock and possibly reduced efficiency in the shock. You'd have to consider moving the upper shock mounts, too. For us...the 96-99.5ish (pre-facelifts?) have rear shocks installed at an angle, with the upper mounts behind the axle. Moving the lower mount up decreases the angle of the shock—not good. The 99.5-04, the rear shocks are almost vertical, but you can't move the upper mount higher, otherwise you start entering into the wheel well area where the tire could make contact during articulation. In both cases, you'd also want to consider moving the upper mounts inward, like this custom Tacoma setup: Note the additional crossmember allowing for adjustable upper shock mounting positions. This might be doable, but you'd also need to clear the springs, likely using an extended mount similar to the panhard bar's lower mount.

No reason you couldn't. There are several weld on kits available. This is the direction I would go personally: http://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/rear-axle-lower-shock-mounts/ These (and many like it) exist too: http://jksmfg.com/i-9052781-fab-rear-axle-shock-mount.html

Sorry, I should have clarified: I don't have power seats or side air bags. I have power everything-else, and then some. Also, I'm quite mechanically and electronically inclined, so I'm not at all worried about getting something. I'm just trying to justify the effort of pulling OE seat heaters for a clean plug-and-play appearance vs. buying universal elements and doing custom wiring to the switches. And if going through with OE stuff, may as well upgrade some more.

Duplicate post, nothing to see here folks...

Awesome, glad that info helped. And thanks for the other details...some funny stuff there! I already have leather, but lack all the electronics. I almost wonder if it makes sense to just grab the complete seats (and that harness) and put my leather on them. Not that I couldn't run wires how you did. What did you pay for the elements anyway?

Also, I'd be curious to know what all was involved removing the heater elements from the QX4 seats. Are they just sandwiched between the leather and padding, stitched in, glued, etc? There's a QX4 that has them at my local JY, and I suppose if the seat cushions were junked enough, I'd just cut into the leather. But I want to leave it as salvageable for the next guy.

That's pretty awesome that everything is already in place. I also have the switches and have been thinking about adding in seat heat (for the woman, of course!). According to the FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1999_Pathfinder/el.pdf, page EL-325), the RH heated seat harness (B56) should be loomed in with two other harnesses; one for the power seat (B57), and one for the side airbag (B126). If you have either of those features, you can trace that wire bundle; the airbag harness should be yellow, or have yellow loom or tape on it. That particular set of wires comes from the passenger door jamb/floor. It also looks like you should see 3 harnesses behind or near the kick panel. The lowest one (M70, page EL-318) connects to the harness (B50) which has the wiring for the three aforementioned components. If M70 is empty (and presumably you don't have those two other features), then there's your problem (back to the JY!). But if it's not empty, you can try tracing the wires from there.

The truck in those two links is actually mine, so I can confirm or comment on a few things: I still run mostly OME, and still dig it. I changed out the rear shocks to longer Monroes, and the drop in ride quality was noticeable. Haven't run KYBs, but I think most people have been pleased with them. I still have the rear studs up front and 1/4" spacers. With OE 16" wheels (as shown in the threads) and 245/75/16, no issues with tire clearance near the strut. Clearance is a little tighter with SFD and 265's, necessitating camber bolts. I plan to revert the front studs to OE length and run 1" spacers, possibly with Toyota wheels...but if I go that route, I may change all the studs to 12x1.5 for a few reasons. The RR hubs have held up well. I recently had to pull one to check my wheel bearing, and it's in good shape and has seen some decent use recently. As you'll find out, interior space for accessories and gadgets is at a premium. I installed a CB a few months ago, but instead opted for a handheld unit that has a car adapter so that it didn't need to be permanently mounted anyway. I just ran the antenna lead to the center console, and use the power socket in there. https://midlandusa.com/product/75-822cb-radio/

http://www.courtesyparts.com/auto-parts/1994/nissan/pathfinder/xe-trim/3-0l-v6-gas-engine/hvac-cat/blower-motor-and-fan-scat Looks like 27200-86G10 (#4 in link, w/o auto AC). eBay? http://www.ebay.com/itm/221797591511

I wish I would've done a similar recording on my buddy's R50 when we replaced his driver's side mount (was in two pieces when we did his SFD). Do you notice any additional shudder while driving around when it shifts into 2nd? That's what his truck was doing, as if the engine was settling back down onto the mount during the shift. His passenger and transmission mounts seemed okay, but were obviously the only things working. We suspect that the mount has caused a leak on the driver's side near the cat from the engine movement, but we've not been able to take a better look.

I've not heard any bad things about OME. I run them and they've been great. Those lift springs are for an Armada. They won't fit yours. Like I said, your part options are very limited. If you go to any of those parts manufacturers websites, you'll get 1-2 p/n tops. The rear springs will vary because many aren't R50-specific, but the actual p/n will vary by the amount of lift you end up with. The manufacturers websites usually spec all those out, and you'll probably need to determine what size you need. I run shocks for an F-250, about 5" longer than stock. Search for a few Bilstein posts, for sure a few p/ns have been provided by members.

Your original post didn't say your 90 had an LSD, nor that you had compared the two. When you did mention an LSD, it was in the context of your 87: But now that we're clear on what has what, the diffs will not act the same. The open diff's tires will spin in opposite direction, and the LSD's tires will spin same direction. Do both tests with the transmission in gear/park and both tires up. Since you have a V6 87, you already have an H233B/R200 per RedPath88. So you just want the LSD?

Don't sweat it, it happens. We're just pulling legs here. We also know that the search function here is pretty crappy, especially since it ignores words less than 4 letters (like SFD OME AC). But we do get the question a lot, and nothing has changed regarding the setup for years. I just use Google and include "NPORA" in the search. The first result usually has multiple results, with a "More results from www.nissanpathfinders.net" that is far more exhaustive and useful. You have a very finite number of options for lift, SFD, and struts/shocks. It's pretty irrelevant which combo you go with. If you want 6"+ of lift, you need lift springs, an SFD, and some way to raise the rear as much (Jeep springs or lift springs + spacers). It's entirely mix-and-match. To summarize your options... SFD: KRFabs or homebrew Struts: OE, KYB, Monroe, OME, Gabriel Lift springs: AC, OME, Jeep (custom for rear if going >4") Spacers: Fleurys, LiftMaker, NX4, AC (they're NX4 spacers) Shocks: OE, OME, Bilstein, Ranchos, Gabriels, few others (including some for early 2K's F-250)

What do you mean? I feel like we're talking about both vehicles interchangeably...weren't you talking about your 87? Are you transferring parts around or something?

The differential will proportion the torque as needed when you're testing like that. Any differences you're seeing between trucks are due to varying amounts of friction on different components (spider gears, side bearing preload, pinion preload, wheel bearing preload, brake drum friction, etc). If you put both in Park/gear so that the driveshaft remains stationary, you'll see that both differentials behave the same as open diffs. Unless something is broken, of course. Why would you suspect any damage? If you do the above test, the spider gears are fine. If you just lift one wheel, put the truck in neutral, and spin the one tire, you'll be able to test the ring and pinion. This just proves that things are meshing ok, but not that everything is to spec, though. But you're swapping in axles you already have?

Check fuse 24 (7.5A, column 1, row 6). This supplies power to both the Smart Entrance Control Unit (which controls lighting and door locks) and the gauge cluster at all times. Each has a 2nd fuse that supplies power when the ignition is at ON or START, which explains why nothing works when the truck is off, and why the trip odometer resets when turned off.

The axle code doesn't indicate absence or presence of an LSD. If the tires spin in the opposite direction, that's indicative enough of an open diff. The difference between an R180 and R200 is very subtle. I think the casings are actually the same, but the internals are slightly smaller on the R180. I don't know what the HG means. Your observation of the driveshaft is normal. The differential allows the tires and driveshaft to rotate at different speeds...and in the scenario you're in, different directions. When you've got both tires spinning in opposite directions, you've overcome the friction of the spider gears and are transferring almost all the torque directly across the axles, essentially ignoring the rest of the differential. But there's just enough friction to allow the driveshaft to move a little. Assuming you're repeatedly spinning one tire, each time you grab that tire, you might be slowing it down just enough for the opposite tire to be rotating faster than it, which is what creates the reversing effect on the driveshaft. However, with the tires rotating in the opposite direction, you could actually grab the driveshaft and spin it in either direction, or hold it stationary. This scenario isn't a problem because it doesn't occur when driving (and if it does, you've got bigger problems).

Oops, sorry. I mistook this to a very similar thread that just popped up the other day, except his is 2wd. Older (pre-91?) Jeep Wagoneer (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Wagoneer_(SJ)) is what I've heard tossed around.

Believe me, I'm the same way. I had a bit of a rat's nest to clean up on my own truck when I got it.

Yes, I would think them to be the similar, if not the same. But, of course, a donor of that age may have similar problems.

Wait, CDN, when did you get an SFD??