hawairish

Got a link? It'd help to know (or attempt to know) the brands of the parts involved. A lot of the parts quality is probably subjective, but the ball joints are probably the most important item in that list and you don't want to skimp on them if you can avoid it.

So the pedal won't even compress a little bit? Does it seem like a hard/mechanical stop? With the truck off, the ABS shouldn't be a factor, and I don't think even a mal-adjusted LSV would lock the line either. Seems a bit puzzling indeed...

I had this problem last year. Same symptoms: fired right up when it sat, but when already warmed up, wouldn't start without a little gas...then it's like nothing happened. I can't remember the code it threw, but it was related to a high idle (it ran about 1K at idle when warm). I pulled off the throttle body to clean some accumulated junk, cleaned the intake tubing, checked all the hoses/lines for fitment/cracks, and did the pedal position learning process 5523Pathfinder described, as well as two other processes: throttle valve closed position learning, and idle air volume leaning. Solved the problem in the short term...it eventually threw the code again, but I just did the reset/re-learn once more and haven't had the problem since. Both procedures are described in the FSM here in case you're not aware of them. See EC-73.

If you can get the complete 3rd member with the same gearing, you can just swap the whole thing for minimal price difference and work. Some Frontiers and Xterras had the same gear ratios (be careful about the HG43 and HG46 axle codes; there were two ratios for each), and there were different torque ratings by model and year. You can use the LSD carriers from any 33-spline diff, but if the gear ratio is different, you'll have to put your current ring gear onto the carrier and set it up like XPLORx4 mentioned.

This is one of those things that always raised an eyebrow when I read it. It came up on some Jeep forums I used to frequent. The guys breaking D30 have probably gone up 5 tires sizes and kept stock gears and couldn't figure out why things broke. To put things in perspective, a D30 ring gear is about the size of the R180A ring gear. Yeah, 35" tires will work, but something's got to give eventually. But, it'd probably do just fine for a more moderate setup. I have a hard time liking the Waggy D44, though. It's just an old axle. Personally, I'd sooner try a JK D40/D44 with wheel adapters, if it offered some possibility of re-using the coil perches, link mounts, or ABS setup (even if it meant custom tone rings), but I'm sure it's not that cut-and-dry.

Yeah, a little big, but manageable. You had to file a corner on the socket (the opening on the truck) to make it fit, but otherwise it fits snug and stays in?

How well do those Carling switches fit in those sockets? Did you have to file/cut anything down?

It's been tried, though, if you're looking for the option... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29415-r50-steering-stabilizer

Nope. Why?

I think your passenger strut isn't assembled correctly...in particular, the upper spring seat needs to be clocked. If you look at the top of the spring, the thick metal bracket that cups spring is the upper seat. If you feel along its bottom edge, you should find a notch, like shown (this pic is of the part upside-down, btw): The notch needs to be on the back side of the strut, facing the engine. There may even be a "W" stamped on the opposite side of the notch on the seat, and this needs to be on the wheel side of the strut. The upper seat has an angled surface relative to the spring end where the strut bearing mounts. If the upper seat isn't clocked correctly, it doesn't affect the bearing, but it causes the spring to compress more on one side than the other, which causes the strut to be installed at a slight angle...likely enough to require the camber bolt. Also, when I put camber bolts on my truck, I noticed that the bolt couldn't cycle a full 360° (closer to 300°) because the strut would contact the knuckle. I tried the bolt in both mounting holes, and the bottom seemed to allow the most adjustability. At first I thought it was related to my OME struts, but I had the same observation on my buddy's truck with different camber bolts and KYB struts. My thought is that the upper seat needs to be rotated, they've attempted to cycle the camber bolt but it doesn't rotate enough to make it align-able, and because you were in a minor accident, the shops attribute the misalignment to that. And maybe the knuckle isn't bent at all!

Yep, that'll be nice. Every little bit helps.

4-6 hours is reasonable for swapping both diffs. My offset is different than yours, but with 33" tires (or ~32.8" for 285/75/16), your speedo offset will drop from 11.3% to 5.7%. When your speedo says 65mph, you'll be going about 69 instead of 72. To drive 65pmh, you'll needle on 61-62 instead of 58. The gears will definitely help the added weight.

Oops, forgot a word.

Looking good! What's the tube diameter used, though? I'd expect less space between the bolt holes and the weld if using a 4"ID tube, which I think is what's required to clear the strut mount. Take a look at the mount and KrF's spacers: You can see on the KrF spacers they couldn't weld near the holes. I CAD'd up the strut mount surface based on an extra spacer I have, and its got a 4"ID (it's the same spacer I run on my truck, and IIRC, it's a good fit), and my CAD shows about a 1/2" space.

R50s never came with them, so you should be able to remove them. Only toe was ever adjustable on R50s, though SuperPro produces offset bushings that adjust. I didn't need camber bolts until I hit the 4" lift mark. Aside from your current alignment woes, does it seem like there's another purpose that it has the kit on the passenger side?

Shot in the dark here, but how did you pull the 55 code? With a scanner or the ECU screw? If the latter, is it possible it was left in one of the diagnostic modes? Have you checked any of the other diagnostic modes results per the FSM? http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/ec.pdf

Took a better look, and the cast iron cover is actually a little lower than the R50 cover, so grinding too much and exposing a hole probably isn't an issue. Still a lot of cutting and grinding, though. I think re-using it dependent on how to the driver's side mounting points are replicated. I was thinking about a bracket that bolts over the diff cover flange, and the advantage on the R50 cover is a much more flange area for a bracket, and the thickness is uniform. The cast iron one has limited around the bolt has an a non-uniform flange. But if a steel plate could be welded to the diff case and replicate the holes, then that's moot.

It was noticeable to me. When I did mine and test drove it, I was being more mindful about the re-packed LSD that I swapped in at the same time, but it was a straight-line flogging that caught me off guard. It just felt a lot peppier. It's a relatively small change at 6%, but when you think about it, the cost isn't unreasonable. You may have lost that amount just by running larger tires, so is 6% restoration worth it? If you think about it in terms of HP and torque, that's 14HP and 16 ft-lbs from a stock 3.5L.

Should fit fine on the QX4 (same quarter panel and bumper), but the rear hatch does have a more plastic trim around the license plate than the R50 that might interfere with the carrier.

Good question, actually. If you have the means (a grinder and patience), it's doable. The diff cover is cast steel, and it's pretty thick at that. But, it looks like the cast also dimples inward behind the mount a little, so grinding too deep might expose a hole, but it has to be ground enough to match the height of the R50 cover because crossmember clearance is limited.

Can you confirm which model/years it's good for? Just check for an 04 R50 and 04 WD22 and it's a no-go, but was legit for an 05 R51.

I still don't have any concerns for the hinge area, but I did notice last weekend that the panel where the latch hardware is bolted did flex outward a little from my last off-road trip, which was enough to keep my gate-open light on. I was able to hammer it back to being flat, but I do see some cracks to the paint, so I have a concern for pull-through. If that comes loose, and the gate flies open, that could be very problematic. So take a look at that...I never did originally check if that area is also reinforced (it's completely closed off too). I plan to rivet a strip of aluminum or steel over the rivnuts for exterior reinforcement.

Presuming for a moment he's just idling straight forward in 4wd just for the sake of testing things out, he should be fine. But yes, 4wd shouldn't be used for driving on pavement. That said, and testing in that manner, I'm inclined to agree with the mechanic about the CV angles given some first impressions about the AC springs. If the CVs are in fact binding, that could produce a wobble at very slow speeds in 4wd. I'd still expect something in 2wd, but probably not as pronounced because the front driveshaft isn't engaged. It's probably not a problem as the springs settle, but I have no first-hand experience with them. Alex, it'd be helpful to know the speeds at which you're experiencing vibrations, and whether or not it'd be relevant while offroading in 4wd conditions. Welcome aboard!

Excellent!

Totally cool, works for me. I completely applaud the use of the R50 as the platform, too. I was just having a hard to picturing it when the axles are bigger than the truck . And thanks for those pics...don't think I've seen anything like that before. Best of luck!