hawairish

Looks to be in really good condition. Nice ride overall! In all honesty, though, prices with accessories included are far too subjective. I'd suggest you look into the prices between KBB, NADA, and Edmunds (there can be quite a variation) and determine if you're comfortable with those prices, because that's what Joe Buyer is going to try bargaining at. You can try to recoup money for the add-ons you've got, but it can be a tough sell if the buyer just doesn't want all of them. And because of that, I would re-think what you can pull off and sell separately. The rack, Hi-Lift, brush guard, and lights are easy sells. Also gotta factor in age of some things...those tires and wheels look pretty awesome...you could put stockers on them and resell those easily. Hell, even do a cash+swap with a local and get some of your money back that way, and get stockers to sell with the vehicle. Same with the Optima...if it's still pretty new or you have another vehicle to put it in, I'd just go buy a cheap battery and swap that in. Otherwise...still price the truck, add some amount of money that you think the parts are still worth on a used market, list it as such, and be relatively firm about the price. When I had my Jeep and was ready to trade it in, that's what I did...pulled off a bunch of parts and sold them for almost what I paid (actually made money on some parts). I just left on the things that would require more effort than worth, like the lift and tires. All other accessories (including some that came with the truck new), got sold off and I still got a good trade-in price.

ARB classified and Eaton E-Locker I recently finished my compressor install (shown in the first link) and got all the accessories how I want them. But the first phase was pretty annoying...not sure I care to do the next phase for air lockers.

I did re-pack my LSD, yes. Not terribly difficult just time consuming. I've been pleased with my setup...the few inclines and ruts have gone very smoothly, almost effortless to be honest. Maybe I'm not working it hard enough. If you are in the market, though, I do have a used front ARB sitting around. Debating whether to go full air, or keep the Lokka and go rear E-Locker. I'd rather not mess around with my air setup any more to be honest.

Nice! And if I'm ever in Tacoma again (family), I'll let ya!

XPLORx4 brings up a good points, but getting a front locker first also has some benefits. The IFS is more prone to lifted a tire, so a front locker ensures at least one tire is working at all times. And with loaded rear, a locked front will alleviate some driveline load off the rear, even with a front tire up. My take: if you've got an open rear, consider a rear locker first. If you've got the LSD, consider the front first.

111-122 ft-lbs per the FSM (see SU-9): http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2001

The radio harnesses changed around 05 I think, but probably not tough to make a custom harness adapter if you really wanted a Nav unit. On the flip side, I have a OE Bose unit from an 04 if you're interested. Worked fine as far as I know...can't say I tested the 6-disc (and definitely didn't test the cassette), but I presume it all works fine. I can put it back in the truck to test it. It's in great physical condition. Though, I don't think it supports XM, unless maybe that was an external module?

OE, universal, or "make it fit"...those are your options. You can pull them from a junkyard donor, but they're kind of a pain to remove. But if yours doesn't have them, you're also missing all the mounting holes and clips.

Uh, what?

Nice, how do you like it? The 3.8 I had was okay for a 2-door, but it must've been a dog in the JKU. I heard good things about the Pentastar.

You know, glad you typed that...guess it had been a while since I thought about it...you're right, it wasn't a D40, but a D30. So you've got the 3.6L?

Right on. What year is it? And D30 eh...yeah, that's what I liked about mine...it didn't have the D30...D40 up front instead.

Thumbs up for a simple build. When I had my JK, I just bought Rubicon take-offs...sliders, BFG MT, springs, shocks (Bilsteins). The springs from a Rubicon JKU were good for 2" lift on a JK. Dirt cheap upgrades! I think other Jeep parts are still rather expensive, but tons of options.

They'll work for adamzan...he's got a WD21 and that's what he'd put the gears into...simple swap for him.

Courtesy Parts is a Nissan dealership...the parts should be genuine OEM parts.

Traitor! Blasphemy! Haha, kidding. For reals this time?

Add some pics of the KrF bracket to my review thread for ya!

The outer CV joint is right behind the wheel bearings...in fact, I think it's just separated from the bearings by the grease seal...so it might be tough to tell the noise diff. What you can do is pull the tire and pull the wheel hub cap or manual hubs, if you have them. Doing so will disconnect the wheel hub from the CV. You can do this with hand tools (might need ring pliers...not sure the stock setup). If you can turn the wheel hub without noise/issue at that point, it's the CV.

It actually sounds like the outer CV joint has failed. It consists of large steel balls packed in grease and could very possibly gush grease and have a loose marble sound as you described. The wheel bearings are pretty well housed within the hub, encased by a grease seal and wheel hub cap...if that goes slinging grease, that would be a pretty serious failure.

You know, I think I may need to retract my last comment...I don't think this will work for 4wd guys with manual hubs. Reason being that the center bore is clearly less than 100mm on the wheel-mounting side, so it might not clear manual hubs. Probably fine for 2wd and 4wd with fixed hubs (not sure what they look like); obviously not a problem for the rears.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2004_Pathfinder/ See EM-10.

While pulling codes the old fashioned way is helpful, the low costs of OBDII scanners make it ridiculous to not own one, even for the novice mechanic. It's something that used to cost several hundreds, if not thousands of dollars, and now costs a few bucks. Just knowing the trouble code, even if you can't fix it yourself, is already a foot in the right direction. It can even be used for real-time details (temps, speeds, pressures, etc.) My scanner has actually bailed me out a few times. In fact, just the other day as I was turning onto a street, my truck threw a code and immediately put my truck into limp mode...I couldn't accelerate, and was a very bad situation to be in (glad there was no traffic, I probably would've been rear-ended). I keep my adapter in the truck, so I pulled over, hooked it up, read the code, and reset it on the spot. Everything back to normal long enough to get home and check it out. The choice of adapter or scanner is subjective and based on how you want to connect (i.e., your device, phone, etc). Wifi, Bluetooth, stand-alone are the norm. I use a small wifi module so that I can read codes from my iPhone and garage computer.

That might be the case...wasn't sure. FSM is the Factory Service Manual...the Holy Grail of your truck. It's the official Nissan guide that dealerships use, and it's freely available thanks to the folks at NICO. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/infiniti-qx4-factory-service-manuals.html Click your year (not sure if you're an 01 or 01.5, but they should be nearly identical), then check out the Engine Control or EC chapter. That code appears at EC-472 or EC-483 depending on which FSM is for your MY.

Have you stepped through the diagnostic procedure in the FSM, or swapped the sensors to see if the code travels (if sensor is bad, should throw P1140)?

I sent him some additional bolt details, btw. He's right about the pigtails. But not cutting them and seating them on the perch is actually good for almost 2", too. Free lift! As for the hardware to mount any sort of centering cup for the pigtails, that's all custom. There's an existing hole that's best bored out to at least 1/2" for attaching anything to it.