hawairish

Ok, so my mind went nuts on this topic over the weekend. I'm moving things forward (as best as I can with weekly work travel for the near future, anyway), since some others have been PM'ing me. I ordered a pair Moog 80145 springs. $46 shipped from Amazon (Prime). They are for an 03-07 4Runner. OME coils shares fitment with 03-10 4Runners and all FJs, btw. These have a 190 lbs/in spring rate, same(ish) free height as stock (and OME), and ID of 5.34" (vs 5.06"). I plan to build a bolt-on "top hat" adapter that supports a lower spring isolator and clip to prevent coil fall-out. Since this may net about 6" of lift, I have a similar plan to use 2nd Gen 4R Moog springs for something more moderate (and spec'd near OE R50 spring rate). I also ordered a set of poly bushings as inexpensive option for use in beefier, custom-length trailing arms. And then, not to blow smoke up anyone's arse, I have a design for a lower strut adapter. It would net a little over 3", allow for camber adjustment, move the spring perch way up, and not prohibit use of lift springs or strut spacers. 7" of lift would not be out of the question. Of course, this means nothing without subframe spacers...and needless to say, I have a redesign that may make a 6" subframe spacer practical and provide necessary lateral support. Stay tuned, of course...

All in time

May as well add another. The OE socket location is that flat spot about 8" from where you installed it, at about the 4 o'clock position. You may actually have a pigtail back there already.

Virgil, did you know about the OE location? I thought they all came standard anyway.

No sweat, man, I don't mind paraphrasing. A lot of newcomers aren't aware of the power that is the "FSM". It is the official Nissan service guide, and is what Nissan techs reference...and being free, that's awesome (they used to cost hundreds!)

Well, I have a sawzall, but using that doesn't seem like fun. (I'll have a cut-off soon enough, but not for cutting springs) The springs in mind are from a 3rd or 4th Gen 4Runner, or any FJ Cruiser. The ID of the rear springs is around 5"-5.5" and pigtails around 3-3/8" from what I've researched. We're 5" ID. To put things in perspective... OE R50 springs (Moog 81115) are spec'd at 14.3" free-height @ 120 lbs/in spring rate. OME R50 springs are 14.3"@ 140 lbs/in. OE rear FJ is 14.9" @ 180-190 lbs/in. OE 3rd Gen 4R (particularly MY99, the "tall year") is 16.25" @ 150 lbs/in. OME 896 (HD for an FJ) measured 15-1/8" with an ID of 5-1/16" per a local seller this morning; OME specs at 15.35" @ 318 lbs/in. (This would be a rough ride empty...but loaded up, probably rock solid. Important part is that ID he gave). Assuming for a moment that both ends fit our perches, it's clear we'd get appreciable lift from any OE 4R/FJ spring simply because of the spring rate and free height. Add 2" for having to mount the pigtail on a perch. Now we're in the ballpark of 4"-6" of lift, without cutting. There are tons of spring options for those vehicles, including a few variable-rate springs. OME springs are the same price as ours, but OE Moog springs are $50/pair..."lift" springs for 25% of what OME's cost? Yes, please! So anyway, there's where my mind is at.

There's that of course, but then again there's also the means to cut them. Of all the cutting tools I do have, even I don't have something suitable to do it. Nothing a cheap HF cut-off couldn't solve of course. I think I may have a suitable replacement that's available off-the-shelf and has several options, including variable spring rates, and is for a far more popular vehicle than the WJ. By my numbers, OE springs could net 4", and lift springs that much more. A guy in my area has a set handy, so hoping I can pick them up over the weekend.

For what it's worth, I've been trying to mock-up rear lift items for a more comprehensive SFD package, since I'm in need of a little more rear lift. The WJ springs are a reasonable approach, but I'm not sure how many people are willing to buy new springs and immediately cut them down. I'm still researching other non-spacer solutions. I'm also hoping to have a work estimate to get some trailing arms welded up, as well as quotes for some other parts. Hopefully I can help you out down the line.

I use a specific bracket for a JK and a case+holster for my phone of choice. http://www.quadratec.com/products/17017_005.htm http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Seidio-Kickstand-Holster-Samsung/dp/B00PF9KIAS The bracket fits with a trivial amount of bending, mounts using a radio bracket bolt. I drill out the rivet on the holster and bolt it to the mount (I also retain the mechanism that allows it to rotate) using a small socket flathead bolt and nylock. Since the phone clips into the holster, it's not going anywhere.

What's your offer?

Does the Q have a LSD? What gears in both? A lot of people would be interested in seeing how the coilovers turn out. No real recommendations for the engine except some of the "while you're at it..." advice. I'm not terribly familiar with the 3.3L, but you'll get plenty of advice here I'm sure.

I think I found my answer: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/4449-aux-button/

No sweat man! It'll be a fun project, I'm excited for you. Don't forget, too, that it'll be a good time to change out a lot small maintenance parts and make things as fresh as possible. I might suggest the rear main seal on the engine (I presume you're pulling the transmission, too, or just the t-case?), the u-joints on the drive shafts, and boots on the CVs. Seals and gaskets for the front axle. Transmission mount. Ball joints. Yada yada.

And I totally applaud that mindset! I hear you on the leather...me: black leather in AZ. Aside from being hot to the touch, it makes my ass sweat something awful! It'll be a cool project for you, but keep a couple things in mind with this particular donor: the transfer case is an auto-mode, and is actually a bit different than the part-time 4wd t-cases found on many other Nissan's. You'll need to also transfer over a few electronic modules and wiring harnesses for this one, and depending on the year, you may need a different dash bezel to accommodate the selector switch. You could do an engine swap to the QX4, and swap all the seats (not sure what interior colors you've got, and if it'd look tacky). But if that QX4 has the 3.5L, you're losing out on a rather decent HP improvement. Just some things to keep in mind. Either way, keep us posted and good luck!

Actually, there is support. Check out Kyle's response and pics in the other thread. The reason I didn't attempt to reinforce it is because of the angles that the blind nuts will be at relative to each other...there's a slight opposition to each one, so that alone adds rigidity. Plus, the bottom corner of the quarter panel has a structurally-sound shape that helps the cantilever. Also, I believe one of the steps on my stepper bit ended up being near-perfect for the blind nuts. I did also buy a 13.5mm bit, but it didn't hold up well.

I came across a radio bezel from a 99 QX4 2wd on eBay (link). Anybody have any idea what that AUX switch is for? I could find some use for that switch, but I can't find any parts reference to it. I may be able to find it if I can tell what component that controlled. And if anyone else has this style bezel but with a pocket where those switches are, and switches where that square blank is, the part number for that is 68485-5W400. The square blank is 68493-4W100. I like this particular style because the pocket is useless to me, and that square blank is some additional real estate for custom switches, mounts, etc.

Does that QX4 not run? Seems like you'd want to just use that instead, no?

Yep, those will work. I don't recall the length, but I think I went with a bolt 5mm longer than OE, maybe 40mm? The length is dependent on how you want to do the hardware...i.e., the OE bolt has an integrated washer, so you can go with just a bolt and washer and go with OE length; I went with bolt, washer, and lock nut, so I went a little longer. You could also go with a flange bolt at OE length: https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_flange_bolts_Full_thread_(DIN_6921)_Zinc_plated_class_8.8_steel_yellow_10mm_x_1.5mm.aspx. If you go a little longer than OE, it's not a problem since you'll have some space in the cavity. And don't get the serrated flange bolts...they'll just promote rust as they work through the paint on the bracket. Also, one more note: the metal at the rear of the vehicle, underneath the taillight, has a pinch weld behind it where you'll be drilling into. Definitely start with a smaller drill bit and work up (the steppers are great). You may also want to use a rat-tail file in the hole, because any metal from the pinch weld may interfere with the surface metal that the blind nut needs to compress on.

Yes, you will need to be mindful on leverage. Probably won't need to weld them, but if you can reduce leverage, that would be best. I don't recall what the area looks like specifically, or how far away from the metal the trim actually sits, so maybe there's another option. Gotcha on the holes. Been there, done that.

Class 8.8 will suffice, and is a Grade 5 equivalent. The quarter panel is the weak link here, as the blind nut could be pulled from the sheet metal under the right conditions. So when bolting the carrier to the quarter panel (after the blind nuts have been set), be sure to properly support it at all times until everything is bolted securely. The easiest way I found was to open the hatch, put the carrier in the closed position, support it with a block of wood on the bumper, and install as many bolts as you can. Then open the carrier and put the remaining bolts in. That all said, you also want to make sure the hole for the blind nuts is as tight as possible, to the point where you need to tap it in gently with something. It's worth doing a practice run on some scrap steel. I also used a silicone adhesive on the blind nut before compressing it for a little waterproofing. The setting tool is pretty good, just don't over-compress it, otherwise the threaded part can go off-center a little. The tool doesn't come with instructions either, but it's easy to figure out: Install the desired die, spread the handles apart, twist the blind nut on so that the handles stay apart, insert the blind nut into the hole (I put silicone on it right before), squeeze handles together. Keep it steady and perpendicular to the mounting surface. After closing the handles together as much as they can, I do tighten things up just a little more and give it one mini-press. Then use the knob to unthread it from the blind nut. Rinse and repeat. Also, the best way I find to determine hole placement is to set the carrier in place as described above, and look for the position where the curved parts of the bracket sit nice and flush. There's a sweet spot where there's an even gap where the bracket meets the quarter panel. Protect the entire area with some painters tape first. I think I actually did one blind nut first before drilling the 7 other holes, got the carrier in place and bolted to just that one blind nut so that it could help support things, then marked the other 7 holes for drilling. You'll notice on the each bracket 2 holes are round, and 2 are elongated. If you trust your drilling, you can mark center on the round hole...but if not, mark center on an elongated hole, since that will give you a little bit of play to set the carrier correctly. Take your time here!

I usually use RockAuto for cross-referencing parts like this, but I don't see suitable match. I think maybe the way in which it mounts to the crossmember might be the same, but it might be a little different on how it mounts to the transmission?

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/bf.pdf, page BF-51. Shows a drain hose going towards the driver's side a-pillar, and another towards the rear, but doesn't show where that one goes. I bet if you pull off the rear cargo trim on the driver's side, you might find it easier.

Nice, digging in already! About the grab handle, that might be a project where the rivet tool can come in handy. You can now put a thread insert wherever you want. In your case, if you want to simplify the holes in the a-pillar trim, you can probably use 1/2" aluminum spacers, drill simple holes in the trim, and mount a universal grab handle through the spacers and into the blind nuts. Also, look into some stepper drill bits...these work pretty well on the trim for producing larger holes. I also used these on the steel for the tire carrier install. http://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-bit-set-2-pc-69088.html

That disconnected harness could be the problem, but it could be empty if you lacked some other feature, like maybe heated mirrors (not sure what was available for your year). The sensor/switch is integrated into the lock cylinder. You should see a wiring pigtail coming from it (seen below). You should be able to put a voltmeter on it and test continuity. Taken from an eBay auction: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271844515699

Nah, I never got around to using longer bolts...it's held up well so hasn't seemed necessary. It seems to have held up well for the other truck I did the swap on. Last week in UT, he actually hung the tire up on a rock and didn't notice any damage. Then, just yesterday he got rear-ended. He says the carrier is a little firmer to latch, but I don't think there was any quarter panel damage. The strip of metal under the hatch where the brackets bolt to is pretty thin, so I wouldn't be surprised if it bent inward a little. It's probably also an easy fix. As you've probably already observed, the striker brackets are pretty solid, so I doubt those have bent. In his case, it may also be harder to latch because the latch assembly is designed to move inward/outward for adjustability, and maybe it moved on him. You won't be able to able to re-use the OE bolts that hold the carrier to the quarter panel...they are 10mm x 1.25 bolts, which is uncommon for blind nuts (and is a metric-fine pitch). Instead, 10mm x 1.5 is what you'll have to go with (it's what the McM p/n is for). The latch/striker bolts are 8mm x 1.0, which is common and you'll be able to re-use those.