hawairish

Complete link: http://nissanpathfinders.wix.com/r50lift (didn't seem to auto-resolve without the http://)

Possibly. Depends on how the leads look once you get the harness apart. There should be little boots on the backside of the harness that you slide down, then you need a T-pin or similar to 'unlock' the lead from the harness. But with the harness melted like that, you may need to carefully destroy the harness...which may be more trouble than it's worth. If you have the means to cut and splice, that's probably the approach I'd take personally. But, doesn't hurt to try one approach and fall back on cut/splice.

Yeah, I'd say that connector is a likely source of failure.

2002's were still drive-by-cable, though, so I don't think there's an idle re-learn process. However, since you indicated a toasted ECU, you may want to do some additional searching related to the idle air control valve (IACV). I've seen several threads at the NICO forum about R50 owners having a failed IACV that caused ECU damage.

Have you done the FSM diagnostics instead of just replace things on a hunches?

You do have the FSM, right? It does have the diagnostic troubleshooting steps.

The spring is pressing against it, with the rubber insulator in between, so it'll be tough. But...it might work if you can get the spring compressors on them.

97Pathfinderman is asking if he can use regular (non-angled) 2" strut spacers and 2" AC springs with 4" subframe and motor mount spacers in order to put the CVs at stock angles. The answer is yes, absolutely. It's the same concept as my current and previous setups. You'll need a set of 14mm camber bolts.

A few inches from the switch you replaced.

Ok, but that's listed as the Back-up switch, which probably does exactly what JYeager mentioned earlier. The part to check is this one.

Faces inward towards engine, away from wheel. You may even see a "W" stamped on the opposite side...this side goes towards the wheel.

Well done on the homework, JY. That's the right system description. If you're certain the t-case in in gear, then you may want to check the "Transfer Neutral Position Switch" instead (simple continuity check), or perhaps any of the check springs/balls between it and the t-case for wear if the switch checks out ok. If you had the Auto-mode t-case, there'd be a diagnostic code for it from the t-case controller, but otherwise no code.

04MY and earlier Frontiers, Xterras, and Pathfinders are 100mm. Titans are 78mm. Toyotas trucks/SUVs are 106mm. If those fit his Tacoma then either: a. He's already running thick wheel spacers and you'll need to, too, to clear the front hubs. b. They've been bored out to >106mm (buyer beware)

Both look wrong. See XPLORx4's note about the V-notch on the upper spring perch. Both look like the perches needs to be rotated about 90 degs. Top nut at 110 ft-lbs is way over-torqued. I provided the spec'd range earlier.

I'm not familiar with the clips on the older bumpers, but if you can figure out the part number, just search for it on eBay. Any time I've needed plastic clips, that's been my top source.

Flip those numbers...Nissan is 100mm, Toyota 106mm. Those are Nissan wheels.

1. That's how I understand it. Don't know personally, but will be doing something along these lines too (have all the gaskets already). 2. Yes, the aluminum valve covers have serviceable spark plug seals. That kit also includes the grommets used on the perimeter of the covers. 3. What Rebelord suggested. If you have an MT, there are no power valves. Since you'll also remove the throttle body, may as well replace that gasket, too.

They are welded in, so not an easy replacement. Though I think Nissan does in fact have a parts number for the entire cross-members, but it's hard to tell by the diagrams which one it is (and who knows if it's still available). You may want to attempt clean up as Rebelord suggested. While in there, you could have a steel disc with a nut welded on-center, and then weld that disc to the bottom of the perch. This would give you a flat surface for bumpstops, like the OE setup (in your RH pic, the bolt that's there is holding what's left from the OE bumpstop, so that should give you an idea of how it mounts). My guess is there was some mud inside the perch that never got cleaned out and promoted rust whenever it got wet. There's not really any amount of impact that could have caused the problem (even without a bumpstop, the spring would have to compress more than 100% for the perches to make contact).

Nice! Nothing like progress. But yeah, clean that stuff! The most bell-like sounding thing in the rear that I can think of is the metal boot on the shocks.

Bummer, glad it didn't end up worse. You can buy remanufactured OEM wheels on Rock Auto, check the Wheels section for your model. Every now and then you can what you need on eBay...just be sure to use at least "OEM" in the search otherwise you get a bunch of crap results back.

Yes, if you're talking about rear spacers. The spacer will consume an equal amount of shock travel (i.e., the difference between the extended and compressed lengths of the shock). If the OE shock travel is, say, about 9" (which it is), it'll reduce to 6.5" after spacers. You'll bottom and/or top out easier, which is harsh on the shock and can cause it to fail. There are numerous threads with parts info, particularly Bilstein and Ford F-250 2wd options. DarekG's answer isn't wrong, but it answers the question for front spacers. You won't need longer struts...which is good because they don't exist. But I don't recommend 2.5" of strut spacers without an SFD. Sometimes wheels will require different lug nuts due to the thickness of the mounting surface. Aftermarket steel wheels tend to have a thinner surface than OE, which means they'll need a taller/deeper lug nut; OE steel wheels have a boss around each hole that makes it thicker. Aluminum mounting surfaces are thicker than steel. You'll need to confirm what style (acorn, mag, etc.) the wheel requires. R50s use M12x1.25 (or 12mm x 1.25mm) wheel studs and acorn-style nuts. If in doubt of the length to get, just pull off a nut, measure it's height, and get something a little longer. eBay has no shortage of size and color options.

Yeah, it does take effort to mess up, no doubt...but, if the bumpstop is on the strut rod already and blocking the view, and maybe not watching the keyed part and quickly getting the nut on...who knows. The threaded part may actually be too short to allow this, too. Just throwing it out there, though since it'd be a bad scenario.

Great job!

XPLORx4 may be onto something. Trying torquing the strut rod nut to spec (43-58 ft-lbs) now that the truck is resting on the spring. I can see that if that's loose (perhaps the spring compressors weren't compressing the spring enough during reinstall?), it would create a small gap that would only be exposed during a bump. Was the strut mount 'keyed' to the strut rod? There's a flat spot on the rod to correspond with the flat spot on the integrated bushing of the strut mount.

BTW, about the sway bar...not really advocating one approach over the other. After all, it's just another one of those personal things. I liked how it cornered before taking it off with an open diff...after the LSD swap, it was great...it just hooked up and stayed straight. After taking it off, it was just a bit more difficult to finish turns in the closest lane. The on ramps near me are long, gradual, curved ramps, and sometimes I need to tip-toe which leaves less time to get up to freeway speeds. Took it off-road a few times, but doubt I'd have noticed an real articulation loss there (besides, the lack of a PHB drop probably already limits droop).