hawairish

Yeah, Chris did have a 12-year head start in me, of course. Still can't believe his work didn't show up on my searches. Just happy to be able to expand on the options for those who might be interested. Happier to not have had to scrap the project altogether.

No, I don't think swapping in another axle is practical or beneficial. Time, effort, and money for this swap are pale in comparison to a full axle swap. You'd be better off just doing an air or e-locker if considering that scenario. One phrase I surprisingly didn't use in my write-up—and really should have—is that the above is 100% bolt-on. Perhaps a little more involved than air/e-locker install (because you don't need to disassemble the axle shaft assemblies at all), but the same or simpler in all other aspects (again, no plumbing, no electrical). There's also no fabrication, no grinding, no drilling, no filing...seriously, completely bolt-on using off-the-virtual-shelf lockers, OE/aftermarket replacement parts, and minimal donors parts (namely, the axle shafts and carrier, if needed). But, for additional reinforcement to my answer: Nissan e-Lockers didn't surface until after 2005, when models had the M226. But, it's a completely different differential/axle. People heard "Dana" and went ape-shix about it. Whoopty-do! It's a shame that it got more aftermarket support than almost two-decades worth of H233B simply because it's a Dana 44 derivative (yet is not like other D44 out there). I'm not even remotely convinced that the M226 is better than an H233B, either. Nissan Nut has a side-by-side comparison of ring gears, and despite being 6mm different in bolt-ring diameter, the H233 ring still dwarfs it. (Yeah, size matters here.) Early M226 e-lockers were apparently plagued by weak spider gears that failed under moderate use. Nissan Nut documents it in the link above. He didn't even bother repairing it (parts didn't exist at the time...not sure if they even do now, but I understand there was an improved OE locker that eventually came out). I've also seen numerous reports of busted side gears and stripped axle splines as well. Can't say the same for H233B (but assuredly it has happened). Supposing the M226 axle was a viable option, you'd need the entire axle to make it work. Outside of the custom fabrication required to mount it up, you'd still need to resolve wheel pattern discrepancies (6x4.5 vs. 6x5.5), and presumably adapt the driveshaft flanges, at minimum. The ABS system is likely different, too. Parking brakes, too. I don't even know if the axles are the same width. But, point is, you'd have to factor in far more things to make it work for any pre-2005 applications, and it'd essentially be a downgrade in overall axle strength. Personally, I think Nissan really crapped the bed with everything after the 2005MY. The VQ40DE is a stroked VQ35DE, but was plagued by the SMOD (strawberry milkshake of death). The aluminum front R180 case (previously steel and similar to the R200 case) had a tendency to self destruct. The M226...see above. The R51 Pathfinder got a narrow-box center-mount R200 with long CVs and IRS, common in style to those only found historically on Nissan cars...the Armada went the same route, but at least had a differential (R230) on par with the H233B. Even the C200K found in Frontiers and Xterras was subtly different enough from the previous C200/R200A. Lastly, comparing the ring gear size of the R52 Pathfinder with the H233B is like comparing a tennis ball to a bowling ball. It all just reads like 2005 = downgrade to me. Admittedly, I think the looks improved, though. But, I'll never stop believing that 1988-2004 is the Golden Era of Nissan trucks. Even my 1998 Frontier 2wd with H190A rear only just failed a few months ago after 18 years and well over 200K miles, going through a "fun" period (my late teens and early 20's) that saw a 20% larger tires (that's a 31" tire from a stock 26") on stock 3.9 gears, suspension lifts, tons of jack-rabbit starts and washboard roads, and a few clutch burn-ups trying to get unstuck from obstacles. Yet a "Dana 44" can't survive half those numbers with a locker designed to be used in a slow speed, low-gear applications with more torque? It indeed blows thou mind. Long story short: I wouldn't use anything other than an H233B on the truck.

Is this worth it? In a nutshell: yes, if the end goal is to simply be locked. Not factoring the costs of installation, consumable items that would be required for either installation (like bearings, fluids, etc.), and assuming everything ships free, the true costs of an air locker (plus compressor) or e-locker setup easily doubles or triples the cost of this swap, quickly exceeding $1100 in just core parts (and not counting other pneumatic parts you may need; the E-locker is about $1150). Assuming this project went without issue, we were in just over $450; $250 for the locker (after rebate) + $200 for the axle shaft assemblies...but let’s just round up to $500 for the sake of argument. Consumables for either install are closer to $200. Not sure labor rates, but wild guess at $300-$600 if you had to pay someone to do it. I bought myself a 12-ton HF floor press for $100 so that I could do all the press work myself. Mechanical lockers have their own “character” at times, and require a different mindset when driving with them. They’re not for everyone, though. Personally, my front Lokka has been great but I’ve not dealt with it under rear-like conditions since my manual hubs effectively disable it on the street. Of course, you pay a premium for selectability when it comes to lockers. But, you also pay a premium for complexity to both plumb the pneumatics and wire the electricals. I’m switching to dual air lockers soon (for other reasons) and I’ve spent the past several days figuring out just the pneumatic side from my existing onboard setup that was initially meant for tire inflations. Talk about hell trying to create a system that’s mainly NPT when ARB uses BSPT and UNF connections and a non-standard 5mm air hose. I can’t even tell what TJM uses and everything needs an adapter because nothing is the same size. And if the acronyms get the better of you, let’s just it’s all BS and it can KMA and STFU AFAIK. I’m just glad I know more about circuits than pneumatics. But basically, there are no wires or air required for a mechanical locker. That’s a selling point in itself. … Anyway, if you made it this far, I’m sorry. Long read, I know. You were warned. See TL;DR above. Questions?

#2: Mechanical lockers and differential carriers As stated above, there are a few locker options, which I’ll detail here a little. Each option determines which carrier you can use. Basically, you need an open carrier and there are two options: 2-pinion: These featured a bar-type cross-shaft and two spider gears in a solid 1-piece carrier. They are found in all R50 and W/D22/U models with 4.363, 4.636, and 4.9 ratios. 4-pinion: These feature a cross-type cross-shaft and 4 spider gears in a 2-piece clamshell-style carrier that bolts together. They came with 4.375 and 4.625 gears. They look very similar to the LSD carriers, except the core of it is wider and fills more of the the ring gear. It looks like this: For comparison, the LSD carrier (found on all of the aforementioned trucks) has a smaller core and won’t work here: And here are your locker options... Spartan Locker Price: $283 @ eBay, Amazon P/N: SL-NPATROL-31 Fits: 2-pinion This was the cheapest option at the time of R&D, as it had a $35 rebate (and came with a beer koozie...score!). This is what TowndawgR50 is installing. Despite being marketed for Patrols, the 31/s Patrol carrier is a derivative of the R50 carrier...uses the same bearings, spider gears, and even pinion shaft (I confirmed this with Nissan’s European parts catalog)...see the Lokka description below. During R&D, we discovered we needed thrust washers to get within install spec, despite the instructions saying to not re-use the OE thrust washers. Unfortunately, all available OE washers are too thick. I tried this with two R50 carriers; same results. TowndawgR50 found a place that has some non-OE options, though. Comes with a new cross-shaft. The installation on this was pretty convenient, too...Spartan has a unique design where you can depress the pins into the drivers and hold them in place with little wire dowels. When everything is installed in the carrier, you just pull the dowels to release the pins into place. (In comparison, other lockers tend to need some grease and a flat screwdriver to push into place.) Fitment in an R50 carrier: Side gear comparisons (OE top, Spartan bottom): Lokka Price: $272-$277 @ Lokka P/Ns: NIS-FO-160 (Y60), NIS-FO-242 (Y61) Fits: 2-pinion This is what I was planning to run, but Lokka screwed the pooch here. My front Lokka has been great, so I presume this would have been great too. Didn’t get to test this out firsthand, unfortunately. Fitment should be the same as the Spartan, but unsure if thrust washers would be an issue. The two R50 Lokkas I’ve installed used them and were within spec. Not sure if this comes with a new cross-shaft, but I doubt it. As you can see in this Patrol-specific Lokka installation guide, that open carrier looks exactly like the R50 one above. Lock Right 3210 Price: $355 @ eBay, Amazon P/N: LR-3210 Fits: 2-pinion The most expensive of the lunchbox-style lockers, but I’ve seen them with $35 rebates recently, too. Not to be confused with the 3220. The notable about this was that it was erroneously marketed to a bunch of Nissan trucks and SUVs as fitting 33/s axles for some reason. Definitely not the case. And since the W/D21 (maybe some late 80’s ones?) and the Unicorn #1 trucks didn’t appear to use 2-pinion carriers, and this was made for the NA market...I have no clue what this was really supposed to fit! But, if it’s 31/s and 2-pinion, I’m confident it’ll fit the 2-pinion carrier. Whether or not it needs different thrust washers... Lock Right 3220 Price: $271 @ eBay P/N: LR-3220 Fits: 4-pinion Also had a $35 rebate recently. This locker is unique from the previous 3 in that it reuses the OE side gears. It’s also the only one requiring the 4-pinion carrier. Same functional concept, though. Of the 4 so far, this seems like the only one that is confirmed to fit the applications in which it is listed. Nissan Nut has installation steps here. Detroit Locker Price: $450-$625 @ AC, $650 @ Rugged Rocks, $590 @ Summit P/N: 187SL167A Fits: 4-pinion ($450) -or- sold as a complete differential replacement ($590-$650+) I’ve heard that these are hard to find, but seems that everyone still sells them. AC is the only place that lists the innards (“while supplies last”); if you go this route, this just installs in the 4-pinion carrier. Otherwise, you can buy the complete assembly and it just replaces your entire carrier, regardless if it’s LSD or not. I’ve always heard good things about Detroits, but this probably isn’t the most cost-effective option here. That all said... If you have a 2-pinion open diff, the best option is probably the Lokka (hoping that it doesn’t need thrust washers). For anything else, consider sourcing a 4-pinion carrier and getting the Lock Right 3220. FWIW, my local junkyard charges about $150 for a complete 3rd-member assembly. At this point, you’ll need the know-how to install the locker into the carrier, and set backlash on the gears. Much of that information is online or in the FSM.

The Hardware… The hardest part might be sourcing the shafts. I can tell you firsthand that Unicorn #1 seems a little hard to find. Possibly due to limited sales, but Nissan reliability (of course!). I feel I’ve seen more Unicorn #2 trucks since making the discovery. The best way check a donor is by VIN. Go to NissanPartsDeal.com, enter the VIN, and go to the Axle & Suspension > Rear Axle section, and look up part code 38162 (can’t miss it on the diagram). If it matches the above part numbers, you’re in luck. If it returns p/n 38164-VE060, try again, because that’s the 33/s shaft. I recommend getting the entire axle shaft assembly (shaft + brakes) if you can. Parts like the ABS tone rings aren’t cheap, and they will be re-used. If using Unicorn #1 shafts, you need/want the following new items: Wheel bearing x2: 43210-42G10 (or W/D21 aftermarket equivalent) Axle lock washer x2: 43069-R9000 (OE Nissan; this should be replaced whenever the bearing is pulled) Oil seal x2: 43252-VW000 (previously 43252-01G00; or W/D21 aftermarket equivalent. This installs at the end of the axle tube and is required since the axle shaft has a slightly smaller diameter) Grease seal x2: 43232-01G10 (or any H233B aftermarket equivalent. Despite some different p/ns, they’re exactly the same, and several RockAuto options do cross-list them.) If using Unicorn #2 shafts, you need/want the following new items: Wheel bearing x2: 43210-0W000 (or R50/D22/WD22 aftermarket equivalent) Axle lock washer x2: 43234-0W000 (OE Nissan) Oil seal x2: 43252-0W000 (or R50/D22/WD22 aftermarket equivalent) Grease seal x2: 43232-01G10 (or any H233B aftermarket equivalent) Basically, Unicorn #1 uses W/D21 and 31/s D22 parts. Unicorn #2 uses R50 and 33/s D22 parts. Everything else from the axle can (and basically will) be re-used, including the ABS tone rings. Now’s also a good time to replace two O-rings (43085-42G00) found at each end of the axle tube, as well as a new diff gasket (38320-T3322)...I don’t recommend RTV here. At this point, everything from the axle shaft assemblies are broken down to the bare shafts and re-assembled to fit an R50. You’ll need to transfer over your brake backing plates, as the Frontiers have different parking brakes, to the 31/s shafts. (Of course, if you have a Frontier or Xterra, you should be able to just swap the entire assembly over as-is and not replace anything, except the oil seal if using Unicorn #1. Unicorn #2 would be the best bet. However, there were two styles of parking brakes: one resembles a Toyota setup with a single cable that goes across the axle, and the other has two separate cables leading to a point above the driveshaft. The Unicorn #1 shafts had the former style, but I think all other Frontiers and Xterras had the latter style. Lastly, if you’re putting these shafts in a 2wd truck with the H233B, you don’t need the ABS tone rings...your tone ring is on the 3rd member near the pinion flange.)

Ok, so what do I need? In order to install a mechanical locker, you need: 31/s axle shafts and appropriate hardware A mechanical locker (and possibly another differential carrier, depending on which you currently have and which locker you want) Of course, this swap may require a particular knowledge set and specialty tools to do various things, such as: pull/press bearings; set backlash; bleed brakes; etc. Refer to the FSM in those cases. I won’t go deep into those how-to details in this particular post, but will answer any questions about them. #1: The 31/s Unicorn...er, Unicorns? Early in my research, I learned that the Pathfinder, Frontier, and Xterra share the exact same axle shafts, but for the Frontier, there is a 2nd axle shaft listed for the same axle housing. I reasoned that it must be the same length as the others. I cross-referenced all sorts of parts and basically had proof that it was also 31/s because of the shared side gears and other parts found in W/D21 diffs and axles. I tried finding a suitable donor for a while, but stalled on it for a few weeks and just started calling it The Unicorn. Then a comment from a post at N4W was the proof I needed. A member there, OnlyOneDr (Chris), had done this on his Frontier long ago and still had it documented on his website. (I still scratch my head as to why those never showed up in my numerous Google searches.) I was actually familiar with Chris’ truck (formerly a 2wd Desert Runner, now SAS’d) from a long time ago when I frequented the (very) old AC forum. I got in touch with him, and he confirmed everything, of course. I then found the right donor on eBay and bought them. Unicorn #1: 1999-2000 D22 Frontier V6 KC 4WD, manufactured before 9/00, p/n 38164-2S670 (previously 38164-2S610) From L-R: WD21 (w/discs), Unicorn #1, R50: Unicorn #1 is dimensionally the same as the WD21 shaft, except is about 3” longer and has a landing for an ABS tone ring. It uses all the same bearing and hardware. It’s about 1-2mm less in diameter all around compared to the R50 shaft, except for a noticeably smaller wheel flange (same size as WD21), but is the exact same height. All three shafts use the same bearing cage. I obviously can’t take credit for finding Unicorn #1. Big thanks to Chris for pioneering that and providing me more information. I believe his original swap has since been moved to an Xterra he owns (and I think he still has a 2nd set available.) As mentioned above, this were the project stalled; we struggled to find a replacement for the bent shaft we originally received. However, I think I can claim discovery for the replacement we did find...enter Unicorn #2. Unicorn #2: 2003-2004 D22U Frontier CC V6 AT 4WD XE -and- 2003-2004 D22 Frontier KC V6 AT 4WD XE, manufactured post-9/02, p/n 38164-2Z560 From L-R: WD21 (w/disc), Unicorn #2, R50: Unicorn #2 is dimensionally the same as the R50 shaft, except for the spline count and wheel flange (both the same as the WD21 shaft). This axle shaft is from a C200 axle, not an H233B! So how the hell did I reach this conclusion? Well... I knew that C200 (and R200A, for that matter) have the same 29/s shafts and that they shared the ARB RD-202. Later, the C200 went to 31/s. In the ARB catalog, I noticed that they listed the 31/s C200 and H233B as having the same spline diameters. Conveniently, I had been seeing this one particular new-old-stock shaft on eBay for weeks, but hadn’t given it any thought since I knew it was for a C200 axle. On a hunch, I did several key part number comparisons. It uses the exact same R50 parts except for a grease catcher and the ABS tone ring. The eBay seller confirmed a few other dimensions, including the spline count. That said, I bought it. The grease catchers (that black plate behind the wheel flange, shown on the WD21 shaft) all look, fit, and function the same, so that’s a moot discrepancy. Although the tone rings are different, all that really matters is that the R50 tone ring can be seated on it (and it can). Besides, the only differences between the Unicorn #1’s tone rings were the finish and the internal diameter; tooth count and external dimensions were the same. So, what a surprise to find an ounce of cross-compatibility between the C200 and H233B! I found 3 VINs for trucks matching Unicorn #2, which are notably XE trim for V6 AT 4WD KC/CC models.

If you know anything about me by now, it’s that I tend to research the hell of out of things and write long posts about it. Well, this one is about how to put a 31-spline locker into a Pathfinder (or Frontier or Xterra). For the TL;DR crowd… You can swap in two versions of 31-spline axle shafts from specific D22/U Frontiers into 33-spline R50 Pathfinder, D22/U Frontier, or WD22 Xterra in order to use mechanical lockers intended for WD21 Pathfinder, D21 Hardbody, and Y60/Y61 Patrol models. This isn’t a theory post. I bought axle shafts, a mechanical locker, all the axle hardware, measured everything, assembled everything, and test fit it into my spare R50 H233B axle with a WD21 LSD installed. As a technicality, you can also do this in a JR50 QX4 and R50 Pathfinder with All-Mode AWD, but don’t plan on using Auto mode. It can also be done on any 2wd model, provided it has an H233B axle. It’ll even work for using the tighter LSDs found in W/D21s. For you international folks, Frontier is Navara and Pathfinder is Terrano. The Project This started as musings that an off-the-shelf 31-spline (hereafter “31/s”) mechanical locker could fit 33-spline (“33/s”) H233B axles with enough mashup of parts from certain axles or differentials. TowndawgR50 and I started talking about it in several months ago as a cheaper alternative to an air or electronic locker. Over time, it became obvious that this would be possible. I originally planned to do this on my own truck first, but the project shifted to him when I happened to be passing through his neck of the woods and could deliver everything personally. R&D went well overall, but was not with setbacks, including a big one that put the project in a coma for the past several weeks. One of the original axle shafts I bought was slightly bent, we lost time and money dealing with the returns (two, in fact...the replacement we received was wrong), and then went through minor hell finding another replacement because—at the time—there was only one known axle shaft that would work (hence my Parts Wanted post about pulling a part from a truck in Austin, of all places.) I eventually found another replacement—just the other day, in fact—and...well, it was quite surprise considering it’s not even from an H233B axle. It has brought the project back to life. The project as it exists right now is quite the Frankenstein: a Spartan locker for a Patrol, two different (yet “same”) Frontier axle shafts, and a mix of D22 and R50 parts. Planning to do the same swap—timed with a rear disc brake swap—I had also ordered a Patrol Lokka, but they dropped the ball and struggled to both communicate and fulfill the order, so I cancelled the order. I was looking forward to a dual-Lokka R50. But anyway, the project is real again, finally. I still have a few parts to send to TowndawgR50, but I’m pretty excited to see this come alive. I'll let him fill in any details after all is said and done (fingers crossed no other issues!) That all said, let’s do this... First, some background… Nissan used the H233B axle in US-based trucks and SUVs until the 2005 models. It came in leaf- and coil-sprung flavors, with either 31- or 33-spline axle shafts. Axles prior to R50 and W/D22 models were narrower. Internally, there were a few varieties of open and LSD carriers and configurations, but the differentials were dimensionally the same. Generally speaking, the internals are interchangeable to some degree across all models. Specifically, by axle shaft spline count, 31/s models had more traction options, including: Air lockers: ARB and TJM* E-lockers: Eaton* Mechanical: Detroit (Eaton), two Lock Right versions (Powertrax/Richmond), Spartan*, and Lokka* Limited-slip: OE Open: OE *These are for the 31/s front axle found in Patrols. The splining is the same as non-Patrol rear applications. Conversely, 33/s models had the same options except no mechanical lockers, and the OE LSDs were 35%-90% weaker than their W/D21 counterparts.

Nah, a deliberate shear when they install them. In the pic I posted, bolt #3 and #4 are the same bolts; #3 is new, #4 was from the truck (I have 4 bolts like this, and 3 of them didn't have any obstructions to warrant cutting them off). Notice #4 is shorter, lacking the little tip. My hunch is that they install the bolts, and as a confirmation test to test torque (since these are used in a very high-torque application), they put a star socket on the end and purposefully shear that nub off. Bolts #1 and #2 (used and new, respectively) have the same star-pattern nub, but lack the relief cuts after the threads. Since I don't have the means to shear it off, I cut off the tip on just that 1 bolt where it interfered with the sway bar bracket. But really, mundane details. If you're able to shear the bolts in any other place, you're trying waaaaaaay too hard. Driving without the sway bar, if necessary, wouldn't be the end of the world. But no, there isn't easy access to put a nut up there.

Not sure this helps...but here are the brackets. The ball sockets attached to them aren't OE of course. The brackets are side-specific. This was the problem I had: These were the p/ns I used: The bolts are the same, except for the very end. The ones on the bottom have an extended piece that is intended to shear off. The ones at the look the same, but lact a shearing piece. Dimensionally, the bolt length and thread are the same. Somewhere around here I posted the thread pitch, but IIRC they're 14mm bolts. Next time around, I'll probably just put 9/16" hardware on it.

Yes, there are two sets of bolts...but they're basically the same. You could use 8 of the same p/n (one was a bit cheaper) and get the same results. One set had a torque-away nub that I believe was sheared off (deliberately) at the factory.

I had to remove mine to get to the trailing arm bolts...but rust isn't an issue at all on mine. On a side note, if you're replacing the trailing arm hardware with OE bolts, you'll probably discovered that the bolt on the driver's side, lower link, upper end will interfere with the bracket if you put it back the way it came out. Just a heads up...you can probably insert the bolt the other direction. In my case, I had already torqued it down and wasn't about to redo that. Out came the Dremel...

Well...I pulled the trigger on a TJM today. Summit has had them on clearance for a few weeks now at $695 (and also on eBay), which was just too good to pass up. There are a few other TJM products on clearance there, which is a little concerning, but I decided to stand by my original/virtual quality assessment and design for the TJM over the ARB. Since I've also been unable to sell the R200A ARB locker that I picked up from another member here, that was the other factor here, and I'll be using it now. Goin' full air, boys! I tore down the ARB the other night and despite being quite old, it's held up well. I had slowly been collecting all the other replacement parts that were missing wondering if I was ever going to use it. Earlier in the year, I paid $50 for a new/genuine ARB solenoid and bulkhead kit...which is a deal in itself...but those also came with some bar-pin eliminators for Jeep shocks that I sold for for $35...win!). New bearings on order, just need to pull the diff down and get to work. One downfall about TJM is that their product information and documentation is non-existent. I can't even tell what all is included in the box. From what I can tell, it includes new bearings, which might be good and bad. Good in that it saves $80+ in bearings that you would have to buy for an ARB (if you didn't re-use yours), but according to a Patrol forum, I don't think it uses H233B bearings. Could make the search for replacements in interesting when the time comes. Anyway, when it comes in, I'll post the details up.

I think there's a bit of work to it. Give this a read: http://forums.nicoclub.com/update-removed-navigation-and-rewired-automatic-climate-control-t483201.html

I ended up using a floor jack under the end of my breaker bar...worked like a charm.

The other week, my boy's hand and forearm were completely soot-black and I couldn't figure out what he got into. It wasn't until my girl (the 3-yo) was caught doing this that I connected the dots (the same black forearm, lol). I guess it's my fault for putting enough lift on it to make it within reach. I'll be sure to not give them any ideas about the hose! ... Today, came back from a short overnight camp trip with the family. Something just to get out of the house. Been travelling too much this year and otherwise just too busy. Was extremely surprised to get a little under 17mpg (285mi/17gal), with the idiot light coming on shortly before that. I don't think I've ever gotten that on a tank (or rather, have trusted a Nissan fuel gauge enough to drive further!), especially on a drive that included several highway climbs, 8K elevation, and fully-loaded with gear.

Yes

Pulled my rear exhaust pipe and muffler down to take a 2nd stab at extracting a bungee cord that my 3-yo pushed up there last night, and which one of the hooks snagged on something and wouldn't come out (I stretched it to the point of the metal end uncoiling). Let me tell you how not-easy it is to shake a bungee cord from a muffler and tail pipe, and still needed to fish it out.

Ok...so I looked at mine (mainly because my middle bulb has actually been flickering a little lately) and it doesn't look like the heat sink would cause a problem. On the middle light in mine, there's a metal heat shield that's above the bulb, but it is completely isolated from the circuit. The rear cargo light does have some of the metal contacts passing into the cavity where the bulb would go, but in order to reach it, that heatsink would have to be a bit bigger. Nonetheless, it's worth checking for any possibility of a short, even possibly on the bulb itself. The dome caps on the end, at least in the few I've gotten, aren't soldered too well. I just checked my current bulb, and the dome cap is about 1mm from the heatsink...I suppose with enough flex, the cap could contact the heat sink. Still thinking one bulb at a time is the way to proceed.

I suspect that's the issue. The bulb I had was similar, sans heat sink, but in the middle light, nothing kept it from rotating. I made a little plastic A-frame to keep it aligned. I just can't remember (and am too lazy to check right now) if any of the leads are exposed.

Could try re-installing one at a time and seeing how each does. Process of elimination. Is the heat sink on the cargo lamp bulbs contacting anything?

If an LED bulb is blowing fuses, there's some other issue and increasing the fuse isn't a good idea. I'd be sure that the draw on that bulb is quite low...much lower than the filament bulb. Got any pics of it installed? Is there any noticeable short? Does the fuse stay intact with the original bulb?

The JY near me has two R50s with tire carriers...and more useful in your case, they also have the OE license plate holder for the driver's side of the liftgate. AFAIK, it uses the same wiring harness and lights, etc., as the setup in the center of the lift gate. You'd presumably just need to take apart the liftgate interior (easy) drill some holes and affix it, the move the wiring over. I need to make a JY run soon...something I should look into grabbing?

Yeah, it adds up pretty quickly if you want to start fresh with new parts. Another option is to get a donor LSD and repurpose parts of it. All the H233B LSDs used the same parts, so in theory, you could get an older W/D21 diff and salvage the parts from it. No guarantees it'll boost your numbers, but good possibility it'll help. The R50 diffs were rather weak to start with.

Check the rotor runout. They are out-of-spec at 0.1mm/0.004".

You can get them from any Nissan parts dealer. I got mine from courtesyparts.com, but there are plenty others. When I did my project last year, a few sizes were on national backorder or otherwise NLA (er, no longer available). All the part numbers are in the FSM, and the pieces run about $35/ea...not cheap when you generally will swap them in pairs for this project. Ideally, you don't just add pieces, but instead swap pieces out depending on the configuration and specs of your specific LSD. Unfortunately, you can't really know what to replace until you know what's in it. The FSM does indicate the specific configuration for your model, but it doesn't tell you the thickness of each plate, since that spec is "adjustable" by using thicker or thinner pieces. It also doesn't have a means to determine what thickness will equate to what breakaway torque...that is very much trial-and-error. W/D21s had mid-to-high 200 ft-lb breakaway torques, which I've understood as being streetable. The pair I rebuilt ended up and 180 ft-lbs and 170 ft-lbs, but it was relatively easy to hit 300 ft-lbs (I stayed at those lower numbers because I needed to ration my parts and build two similar LSDs). Both have performed quite well. My take on things: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40280-was-the-factory-lsds-breakaway-torque-any-good/?p=758726