hawairish

R50 hubs (front and rear) are 100mm. Most Chevy and Titan/Armadas wheels are much smaller bores and won't fit. Toyotas are usually 108mm.

Which brand did you get? The actual instructions vary a little bit by brand, but the concept is exactly the same. A simple search (here or Google) should have returned several results, including a video. Have you seen this? Basic concept is you need to pull off the OE hub, figure out if you'll need to remove/replace the studs that hold it in place (depends on brand), install the splined collar and ring-clip on the CV shaft end, then put the new hub on using the hardware that comes with it.

Bummer, Virgil. An inevitable decision, though. It's been a pleasure keeping tabs on the progress, and over such a short time, too. Best of luck with the sale!

Same p/n.

Yep, they were for the Nissan Elgrand (E50). They're on eBay semi-regularly (int'l sellers), such as this set. The strut plates are different, and you can't use the rear coils because of a completely different setup (their springs mount on their trailing arms, not the axle). You could probably find suitable front springs to get some lift, but I'm not even sure the coilover is the same length. I was chatting with the guy who had the set originally; another guy on NICO now has them on his R50, but I've not looked into that any further.

Showmetheparts.com/kyb

I'm becoming a seasoned vet at this stuff Just did my wife's Kia and it's amazing how much easier things are when you don't have to remove or work around all the crap above the strut towers. I think I had both struts done in about an 90 mins, wheels up to wheels down. Personally, I've never had an issue with the basic compressors, even on OME HD...those just took a slightly different approach to get the hooks as far apart as possible. If the right precautions are taken (treat it like a loaded gun), then it's an easy task. But, it really is a personal preference. The rear spring install that XPLORx4 described is what I've always done...very simple with a few floor jacks, a good floor jack, and hand tools. For the labor costs you're talking, I could never justify that amount if you have any wrenching abilities. I mean, you could buy a jack and stands from HF for <$150 and DIY in a few hours, pocketing the rest...for more parts of course.

Here's what prompted that: some 99-00 Frontiers are listed as having R50 axle shafts and the 4-pinion open carrier from W/D21s. However, it looks like Nissan is providing conflicting information. Basically, early V6 Frontiers had two axle shafts and one axle housing. One of the axle shafts from the R50, the other is only for those specific Frontiers (never used in any other truck/SUV). Both use the R50 bearing cage. If all that holds true, then there's another axle shaft that will fit our truck and it could be either 31- or 33-spline. If it's 33-spline with that carrier by some miracle, that's the Unicorn. However, if it's 31-spline, that could be another solution. There's a Spartan locker for 31-spline H233B front diff found in Patrols, which uses a 1-piece 2-pinion open carrier like the R50. Well, the cross shaft it uses is the same as the R50, and the spider and side gears are the same as older W/D21s that once used the same carrier design. All the thrust washers are the same, too, so this basically should mean that the internals between Y60/Y61, R50, and older W/D21 are dimensionally the same. If there's a 31-spline axle shaft that's the same length as a 33-spline R50, then those and the Spartan locker should work in the R50 without issue. Other potential issues, though: 1. The brake backing plates between Frontier and R50 is different, but probably only by parking brake cable attachment. 2. Not 100% sure, but some H233B axles had ABS tone rings on the diff snout, and not the axle shafts like ours. The Frontier FSM says it has tone rings like ours, so maybe it's the Xterra that had them on the snout. Lastly, the idea of using 31-spline axle shafts isn't new, but I can confirm that older 31-splines are shorter than 33-spline axle shafts. These for the Frontier could be the exception. Others posts have also suggested the 31's are weaker...well, I can tell you that the difference in diameter at any given point is 1-2mm, for a 34-36mm shaft. ARB even lists the splined ends having a difference of 0.05". I won't argue that the 31's are "weaker", but I will argue that it's hardly significant. Next steps: finding a specific era of Frontiers and pulling the axles.

That last lift pic might actually be the 2"/2" (+OMEs) now that I think about it, but this for sure is that setup: Current-ish stance (3" front and 2" rear, +OMEs):

Pending diagnostics is fine; probably just the System Readiness process where it's needs to make-ready all the sensors ("monitors"). Resetting the ECU after swapping it in is fine/recommended, and is what triggers the readiness tests. Just wait it out and take it for a few longer drives at cruising speeds.

I may have proof this existed. Stay tuned...

I need to get some updated pics, but here's how it sat with just OME MDs (and 0.5" spacer) on 31": Then eventually 3" SFD (2" rear spacers, 3" strut spacers) on same springs:

Completely agree; seemingly any axle would open up a world of options. A D44 from an Isuzu Amigo/Rodeo, for instance...it even has the same 6x5.5 bolt pattern.

I'm sure some guys have gotten away with minor trimming (bumper corner, wheel wells) or rolling to fit 32" on just AC lift springs (2"), but also may have needed wheel spacers or wheels with different offsets. Haven't had that setup to know for sure, but I did have a little bit of rub in reverse with 31", OME MD springs, and a .5" strut spacer.

You can get lift coils, good for up to 2" of lift, but the limiting factor is the strut...no one makes a longer strut. Spacers soon become your only lift option. There's really no issue with the strut spacers, though...for the ones that are available (except the KrF 4" ones), they'll just use longer hardware that bolts through the entire spacer, sandwiched by strut mount and unibody. Aside from compressive force, there's practically none in any other direction that isn't handled other components in the suspension.

The welder I just bought wasn't free . A spool would make for a lousy DD, though. I can confirm the 3220 definitely won't work for the 33-spline open diffs...the driver gears have too large of a diameter. So, I think the only way to make this work would be to use the 3220 and broach the side gears of a 31-spline 4-pinion open diff to fit 33-spline axle ($$$$$)... ...or... Machine a 33-spline side gear flat to look like the side gear included in the 3210-LR kit...something like this (not exact parts): Can it be done with hardened steel, though?

Ah, sorry, forgot you mentioned leaf springs. Still, not sure the subframe helps. The most-forward points are the tapered corners near where the sway bar mounts, but that doesn't seem forward enough to be useful. Perhaps a new subframe that provides motor mount perches and connects to the radiator crossmember for additional rigidity? You could probably even integrate a mounting surface for the steering box. Curious to see what you come up with...

No you wouldn't. There's no spring support on the subframe. Just make an upper spring perch or coilover mount that bolts to the strut tower.

I have the iCar2 wifi plug-in and use it with DashCommand. I paid for the full iOS version, but also use the trial version on my Windows computer. Both work with the adapter.

Ditch the subframe altogether...just need to fab up mounts to support the engine, then the area is freed up.

Thanks Kingman, I'll give that a try. I don't think air has entered the system per se, but it's something we're hoping to rule out.

Your best bet is going to be the JY probably. The door weatherstrips I think have been long discontinued, but I'm sure they're still available here and there. Try parts.nissanusa.com and courtesyparts.com to get part numbers, then try eBay or Google searches. But the pieces probably add up if you plan to replace everything. As for the sunroof, I don't believe the rubber trim was sold separately from the sunroof glass. Probably doesn't mean it can't be removed from a sunroof...but it could propose a moderate challenge with the sunroof still on the roof.

Yeah, same here. I rigged up a length of vinyl tube to a water bottle and always just have someone pedal-press while I monkey the valve...just how I've always done it, has never let me down. Can't say I'm having the problem you're having, though. (In fact, I'm not having a problem...it's my buddy's R50 that seems to have a spongier pedal, but more importantly a violent shaking while hard braking, and we've ruled out a lot of things.) But, I think this might help you: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/266 Synopsis: bad internal seal in the master cylinder is allowing fluid to "leak" back into the reservoir.

Sorry to hijack a little here, but how do you bleed the master cylinder without removing the lines? I see the instructions in the FSM, but it's in the context of installation, before the lines are attached. Isn't this sort of automatic once everything is connected?

Well...it plus shipping probably puts it around the $1200-$1300 mark...on par with ARB + compressor. Personally, I'm just done dealing with air fittings. It's a pricey part for a generally inexpensive vehicle, but also perhaps the most beneficial off-road accessory, in my opinion. Traction's the name of the game, and you gotta pay to play. I'm still wishing we'd get word from Steeevo about a lunchbox locker. Fingers were crossed that last year would be the year (ten years in the making), but here we are.