88pathoffroad

You're in Salem too? Jeez, so am I. I pulled the radiator on my van today after it got over 40 degrees. Heh.

You'll get better mileage with the smaller tires. AFAIK, swap away. No problems I can see. The size difference isn't big enough to worry about.

Never heard of it. Interesting, though.

Ugh...the new Pathy looks like a Honduh truck. I hate the sloped-nose look they've given the new trucks. Reminds me of the Toyotas. I could care less about the V8...I have two already, nothing new...

In 2WD, the hubs will rotate the CV's and front diff while you're driving, which contributes to slightly harder steering in some cases but not much else. If you try to shift on the fly with the hubs locked you'll most likely get some grinding from the t-case because the front driveshaft is already spinning in 2WD with the hubs locked. Stop before going to 4x4. With the hubs unlocked in 4WD, the CV's will simply spin inside the hubs with no effect and you'll still be in 2WD.

My bad about the ECU, I forgot you can just run the AT one. Cool. *goes and looks at the 89* Oops, there's a cover plate on the floor. No hole to cut! Sorry. It's still a LOT of parts to swap. *shrug*

I'd check the wiring on top of the tank for corrosion or chewed/broken wires as well. There's an access hatch in the floor under the carpet in the rear.

They offered discs from 87 up. It was entirely optional, but most SE's and LE's have rear discs. Simple question, Fondo: does YOUR Pathy have rear discs or not? Do you remember if the junkyard Pathy had discs or drums in the rear?

NOnonononono. Mine weighs like 4275 with nobody in it. 25-2750 is probably the front weight only.

This is why I suggested two sets of gaskets. At least, it sounds like a good idea.

Does it still grab OK? Try this...stick it in third or fourth gear and try to take off. If it slips quite a bit before moving, it's pretty shot. If it kills the engine before moving too far, it's probably still got some life left.

*goes cross-eyed from reading the last post* Damn, man. Use paragraphs.

That's the newest Pathy I'd buy and still wheel. 94 or 95. No R50, no way. Damn clean Pathy, though!

The torsion bars sag by themselves, there are no bushings or mounts involved that contribute to that. Cranking them up will work for a while, but they will eventually sag again and then you will need to reindex them because you won't be able to crank them any more. I have run stock t-bars for going on 7-8 years now, just so you know.

BLANG BLANG MOTHAFACKO!

"Stock height" means nothing after the vehicle has been driven for 17 years. The t-bars sag and can be adjusted to your liking. A good reference point would be to adjust the t-bars until your UCA's are approximately half way between the upper and lower bumpstops. Measure height wherever you want, but be consistant and measure it on a level surface. Also, after adjustment the t-bars will take a few days to a week to settle, so initial measurements may be off a little later.

Yep. 2.25" would be a good size. 3" is too big, but do what ya like!

Possible but not all that easy. Tranny, clutch and pressure plate, crankshaft pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch pedal, master and slave cylinder, clutch line, cut new hole in the floor, console and shifter, ECU, wiring, etc... That's why I didn't swap mine. Too many damn parts to change.

Damn, you have a great friend there.

Upload them to the forum. There's a button at the bottom of the page when you make a reply... Make sure they're not too big though.

I didn't think it was possible to align a solid rear axle.

Gears, synchroes, bearings, whatever's inside the trans...

Check for a vaccuum leak.

There's a pinned topic in the Garage on how to do that.

I have yet to see a problem with any year Pathy that stems from the fuel pressure regulator alone. Usually it's a sensor or missing/damaged vaccuum hose, etc. Keep it simple and look for the easy fix first. Check your error codes.