88pathoffroad

A 350 will be less finicky about parts and put out more torque at lower RPM's if you build it right. It will also be a WORLD cheaper to buy and build. I'd go: 7-8" lift, 350/700R4/pick your own t-case, D44 front on leafs, crossover steering with a 92-95 steering box, and 35's. Also, you need to resize your signature pic. That's way too big. It needs to be more like 200x400 or so.

I just read a post where the distributor was causing the same kind of problem. They're expensive, though. I have two or three spare *used* distributors in my garage. If you can, try and find a shipping cost from Salem, Oregon USA, zip code 97301 to Buenos Aires, or wherever you'd like it sent. I can send you one for $20 plus the cost of shipping. If it doesn't fix your problem, at least it was cheap enough to have on hand for later, right?

Checked your fluid level?

Nope. A junkyard replacement is your cheapest bet.

Hi Phil! I said hello to Lee the other day on AIM and he couldn't comment on your state of being cause he couldn't get ahold of you either. He said he was about to give up. Sorry, I wasn't trying to start rumors.

You need an NPORA sticker!

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I believe it. Always double-check mechanical or electrical work to make sure a 3-year-old didn't do it for you.

Sounds like an ambitious project. The turbo idea is cool, but will require a lot of fab work and money to become reality. Are you a lottery winner?

The ECU will go into fail-safe mode if either the TPS or MAF are malfunctioning and not allow revs over 2800 RPM, to prevent detonation and/or engine damage due to running with the wrong A/F ratio.

The best thing you can do is pressure wash the oil off with some degreaser and wait to see where it's really coming from. It could very well just be oil filter oil remnants.

Could be, but people have broken t-bars without the Trailmaster kit.

You might wait to see if Phil from L&P is actually still making them, he seems to have disappeared lately and people aren't getting their paid-for CL's. Sad but true. BTW, I bought a stock CL a while back and it cost me $150 or so.

You know, I never have looked into that. I think the stock security system does control remote unlocking. You could try a junkyard for a replacement alarm module and try to plug-and-play it.

6 on 5.5. Stock wheels are fine for 31's. You can use nearly any wheel for that size, but having the tires poke outside the fenderwells will probably get you a ticket.

Check and make sure they didn't hook up the new cooler with the stock one. It can still kill the trans if they did it inline like that.

Check your swaybar end links.

You don't need 10-inch wide wheels to fit 12.5" tires. My 33x13.50's mount up fine on 8.5" wheels.

By the way, gear ratios were not all according to transmission selection. I've seen autos with 4.3's and manuals with 4.6's.

Since...forever. You didn't know this?

Leaving the O2 sensor unplugged should keep the ECU in closed-loop mode (or was it open-loop? I forget) where it operates on preset values for fuel and timing. That's about it. You'll get better fuel economy with a new O2 sensor, most likely.

Like I said above, top rear of the transmission.

A 90 amp 240SX alternator is a bolt-in, I believe.

I have a pair of factory tweeters out of a 95 in my 88. I simply ran a jumper wire from the door speaker up to the tweeter. They work great.

Sounds like an O2 sensor or EGR line didn't get plugged back in all the way. Do you hear a leak under the hood anywhere?