88pathoffroad

What year and engine?

Less than 30K ohms.

3500 lbs, no threaded holes, and ask Slick about trailer wiring. It's easy.

A few people actually reccommend using Grade 5 bolts and two lockwashers instead. Lee from L&P has been using that combo for a couple of years now with no problems. The theory is that the bolts will flex/expand/contract with the heads better than the studs.

Reindex 'em by two splines and leave them on. They should be fine.

That's a 4WD Pathy, I see auto hubs on the front.

It'll still strain the steering, the additional weight of the 33's are the problem, not necessarily the width. I liked my 33x10.50's, they worked fine and didn't rub.

Not bad, not bad! How much do those cost again?

I believe there's a TSB about the seat motor.

By the way, if you want to see a passel of lowered Pathfinders, go check out CarDomain. "99 Pathy on Twinkies, Check It, Yo!"

Looks like some good work and thinking going on there! I'd center-mount it for weight distribution, but I'd try to keep the COG low.

It is electrical. The speed sensor is a magnetic reed switch that feeds the ECU voltage pulses so it can calculate your speed. The rear diff sensor is for the ABS. The TCU is behind the wall panel in the rear under the window on the passenger's side(US passenger, heh). It's gold anodized/plated with three mounting legs and two wiring plugs IIRC.

OME t-bars are 20%. That's what I was thinking of.

Yeah, the rear fenderwells are wider on HB's than they are on Pathys also...so flares off the rear of an HB won't fit a Pathy.

Calm the hell down. A lot of black guys tend to drive low-riders. Go figure why he would say something like that. By the way, Mexicans seem to too, shall we toss them in just for good measure? Personally, I could care less if someone wants to lower a Pathy. Do what you want with what you got.

You can get a factory service manual for your 95 here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9692

Did you get an external cooler put on it? DO NOT use the stock cooler, it will kill the trans over time. Other than that, mystery shifting problems are largely undiagnosable until you open up the trans to see what's wrong with it...there aren't any real user-serviceable parts in there besides the filter inside the pan. I'd take it back to the shop that rebuilt it and see what they say, but they may want you to pay for them to mess with it.

You could try swapping the TCU. Those do go bad from time to time. The rev sensor is on the tranny....hmmm. *goes and looks* Top side at the rear.

You could also try lubing the locks with liquid graphite. I don't think the dry graphite works very well.

They hold the vehicle up better and don't sag as quickly as stock bars do. My stock bars are about shot, so I'm giving the SAW's a shot. I figure if the front suspension does less up-and-down cycling when hillclimbing and wheeling, the other parts will probably live a little longer cause the side-to-side wheelplay will be toned down. They're also less likely to allow the front suspension to bottom out over hard bumps or jumps.

On the driver's side there is an ABS control unit and the factory alarm. On the passenger's side is the ECU.

Sorry, I should have said "sounds like" instead of just stating an imperative. I am by no means correct all the time, we all know this. Thanks for the input!

AC sells Sway-A-Way bars. Same thing. Besides, it doesn't really matter which ones you get, they're all 30% stiffer than stock and work exactly the same. There are 20% bars out there, I don't remember the manufacturer though.

The 2WD HB fenders ARE different. The total flare outward is smaller. I think that's about it. A 4WD HB fender should be the same.

Bump for current question significance.