88pathoffroad

Pull the gauges and replace the bulb.

FYI, Slick 50 is BAD for internal combustion engines. DuPont does NOT reccommend using it. The Teflon bakes onto internal parts and creates a nasty black mess after a while. As stated above, the VVT is found only on VG30DE engines (Maximas and Z32's for the most part) and is not applicable to the VG30E in Pathfinders. Has anyone tried using Seafoam in their engine oil and then changing the oil to 5-30 or 5-20 to see if that helps? It should be fine in the winter months.

Trace your wires...it's not that hard.

Just replacing the arms houldn't be all that tough. Remove bolts, pull old arms, replace arms, put bolts back in. Tough stuff.

The tachs like to die on these...if the speed sensor went out you wouldn't have a speedo.

Um, a transmission rebuilder? GOOGLE IT

Get some universal-fit ones and stick 'em on.

I suggest checking the wiring to both sensors and doing a visual inspection first. That's a gimmie.

What, they should pay for someone not keeping up on the proper maintenance of their Pathfinder and letting it rust out? I'm sure it all happened within a few minutes, right? Heh. If you look in the owner's manual it details washing out the frame as part of regular maintenance. Remember, a 94 is 13 years old now. I can't think of ANY manufacturer that would donate freebies to a 13 year old vehicle, regardless of the extent of problems with it. "Ladder bars" is an improper term...they are rear axle control arms.

To go from an auto to a manual, you have to pull the pilot converter from the crank and install a pilot bushing in it's place before the trans will bolt up.

GOOGLE IT

Not necessarily, go read the thread in the Garage on how to change the filter.

If it's a 95, you should have one or two O2 sensors, never 3. The procedure for checking ECU error codes is pinned at the top of the Garage forum...

Yeah, I'd take the axles in to a machine shop. Those locknuts are tough bastards to get off and then the bearings have to be pressed on and off.

Sounds like your ECU is fried. Time to find a new one. Match the part numbers on top, there are two sets of 5 digits and letters. The new ECU needs to match transmission, too. Ebay is a good place to find one for cheap, or perhaps Craigslist.

Could be, yeah. Mine does funky things at higher altitudes.

Pull the side panels and unscrew the speakers. Tough stuff, I know.

No...not unless you weant to tear it all apart.

Check the grounds for the lights themselves, test the relay to make sure it puts out power when it clicks.

You got under there and messed with the ECU on accident, eh? Jeez, man. Try to mess with less vital parts of your Pathfinder next time, you may break it without knowing that they cost $1000 from the dealership next time.

I wouldn't run locked hubs on the street for any reason other than packed snow or ice. With locked hubs in 2WD it will spin the CV's and front diff and you'll get reduced gas mileage and excessive wear and tear on the CV's. It will also cause tough steering if anything in your steering system is loose or sloppy, which in turn will accelerate the wear on the steering. Normally the auto hubs will freewheel in 2WD, letting the CV's sit still. There's no real good points to doing such a thing that I can think of.

The power button changes the shift points for the trans so you can get up to speed faster. The Power light should also come on by itself (even if the button is off) and activate that mode when you floor the gas pedal. It will turn itself off after you get to cruising speed and/or let off the gas. Under normal highway driving, leave the button off.

I never have and it works fine.

It's fairly normal, but it may be idling a BIT higher than usual due to crustage/carbon/soot on all the sensors, throttlebody, etc. Check all your vaccuum hoses, too. They tend to dry out and crack at the ends where they plug in, allowing vaccuum leaks.

They're a real pain, it took me hours to do both. Big bolts to break loose and the damn things don't want to line up afterwards.