88pathoffroad

X's get more attention because they're new...you can't go out and buy a new WD21 Pathy anymore. People don't go looking for older vehicles to get enthusiastic about cause of the mileage and potential problems of owning a used vehicle. Personally, I don't think NPORA member numbers stand for crap since Jim abandoned everybody. We might just as well look at our member number for the forum and go by that.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11862

They're not bump stops, they're turn stops. There is one in front of each wheel and one behind.

Yeah, a stock Pathy only has one grease fitting on the front driveshaft.

If it's real thin, it's brake fluid. If it's thick and stinky, it's gear oil.

*snort* Heh

Maybe you could just take the spacers out for a while, if it's not too tough to get 'em out.

GET A FSM. (Factory Service Manual) One for a 94 or 95 will work. It has all the diagrams and procedures in it for that transmission. It's not a simple automatic, either. They had to go and make it with as many extra moving parts as they could, the bastiges. If you do the rebuild yourself, do yourself a huge favor and get the Trans-Go shift kit and put that in at the same time. The kit has a lot of internal seals that get upgraded and it requires a near-complete tear-down of the trans to install anyway....better safe than sorry, I'd say. It's also only $50. And put on a trans cooler. Don't use the stock one in the radiator.

I'd wait another tank to see if it was a fluke. That's wierd, but there's a reason for everything...

GR-2's are also gas-charged. Ranchos are gas-filled but not as pressurized as the GR-2's. IIRC.

Damn, man. Someone needs to torque those bolts. My bud Steve-O did the same thing at Sand Lake, jumped it and landed nose-first, which shifted the body forward a bit.

It couldn't hurt to use a soldering iron or gun to heat up the joints and re-flow the solder anyway...

I used the brackets on Rami's front bumper and ended up being pretty solid, they worked fairly well. Try it before deciding to do something else, I guess. I left the rad in place and just modded the lower radiator hose to fit. I had to use a short section of metal tube to join two bends back together after getting it cut to fit just right.

Personally, I don't. Monroes are cheap and often crappy, so are Gabriels. Just don't get the $20 shocks and you should be fine. Heh.

My bad, I thought they were the same. Sorry. That'll teach me to make assumptions! They are different. Well, at the very least they have different part numbers. So, if you wanted to change boxes, you'd have to swap the box, the pitman, the idler arm, the centerlink and the inner tie rods. I believe you can use outer tie rods for the 89 and keep your steering knuckles.

Oh hey, good point. I neglected to consider excessive suspension movement when I was thinking about it. Thanks! $45 for GR-2's is about right, Ranchos cost $40 each too.

A ratchet with several extensions and a u-joint fits the #6 plug pretty easily. If you have access to compressed air, use it to blow the crud off the top of the plugs before you pull them. If you don't all kinds of good stuff like sand and dirt will fall directly into the cylinders when you pull the plugs. Use a small flat screwdriver or suitably long thin wire to scrape around each plug to make sure they're at least semi-clean. The plugs are 5/8". Are the distributor cap screws cut for either flat or Philips head? Try the flat screwdriver if so. Stick the screwdriver into the screw head and rap it a few times with another screwdriver or something to give it a bit of a shock and hopefully break them loose. Don't bang on it too hard, obviously. As always, PB Blaster is your best friend when it comes to loosening rusted or stuck parts. WD-40 doesn't work quite as well.

Sweet! PICS!

They both mount up the same, but the pitman arm and sector shaft are larger on the 90-95's. The taper on the pitman arm's hole should be the same(connects to the CL, which interchanges from 87-95), it's just the tie rods that went bigger. My steering box died on me once. Sector shaft seal went and it was just gushing fluid out the bottom...$100 later and I have a junkyard box.

Tire wear has nothing to do with shocks or struts. It has to do with alignment. Aside from that, shocks run anywhere from $30-$80 each and struts are usually around $100-$150 a pair IIRC.

Check to make sure the vaccuum line on the CC diaphragm under the hood is still plugged in and intact with no leaks. There is a CC module inside, I forget where though. Back end under the rear window on the driver's side, I think?

I KNOW you could have done this yourself, but here... Pro-Comp ES3000: Pro-Comp ES9000:

I've always just used a propane torch. Lay it on it's side and let 'er burn...they'll come out in a little while. Other than that, install is simple. Unbolt, remove, replace, bolt up. Be aware that many people have problems with removing the UCA spindle bolts, they're cranked on there pretty tight. After you get them out, it would probably be advisable to at least clean the threads with a wire brush and WD-40. I'd also attempt to clean out the holes on the frame with some WD-40. Use a jack under the LCA if you don't want to mess with the t-bars. Get a balljoint puller instead of a pickle fork, they're the same damn price at Harbor Freight. You could also borrow one free from CarQuest/most parts stores if I'm not mistaken. Call around. The puller works much more predictably and safely.

Man, I HATE no-start problems with no symptoms. It always turns out to be the last thing you expect. KISS!

Just doing the shocks and struts will be a major improvement. Coil springs often last the life of the vehicle with little problems.