88pathoffroad

Oh, definitely. The stock bars will flex better than aftermarket ones, by design. They just aren't good for controlling major motion.

Do you have any ECU error codes? Try the simple things first. Look for missing or damaged vaccuum hoses, clean the throttlebody and MAF sensor, check your air filter, etc. Done a tune-up recently at all?

Ugh.......search "spark plug" and you'll find about a million posts about the #6 plug...

Post a pic. The doors have armrests on them, yes.

Mine was $30.

Quite possibly, yes. Replace the hose and look for more that are damaged or need replacing. Bulk vaccuum hose is cheap, bad gas mileage isn't.

And change the transmission fluid if it hasn't been.

Those guys are STILL using my Pathy's picture in their Ebay auctions, AFAIK. I repeatedly asked them to remove it or at least update the picture and the response I got was "We can't change the auction page, it's already set up that way". BULLSHxT! Check it out. My Pathy at the top of every auction with no credits or anything. And it's an OLD pic! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Path...sspagenameZWDVW Plus those guys are morons. Read the questions at the bottom..."Do you have a 2-4" body lift for my R50?" "No, but we have suspension lifts!" No mention that you CAN'T put a body lift on a R50...

Yeah, it's not hard. I'd do it myself and save the money for beer.

According to my 88 FSM, the two switches on the t-case are for neutral and 4WD indicators, like you said...(probably the same for a 91, they didn't change much drivetrain-wise) Here! Piccie.

Aftermarket UCA's are typically slightly longer than stock UCA's, which gives you a small increase in travel. They did a whole tear-down-a-truck-and-see-what-happens thing at NOR to see how much travel there is. It's true, I swear.

No conversion kit needed. The hubs bolt on and directly replace your stock auto hubs.

Front travel increases by a very small amount with either method of lifting. AFAIK. That's why my CV's keep eating themselves up. A body lift kit should come with instructions. Alternately, there are a couple of write-ups on this VERY forum about it! Take a look with the search option.

Very true, but not so good for taking bigger bumps and bounces at the sand dunes where the front end slams up and down to both limits constantly. Stiffer bars work better there.

The inners are different AFAIK for the 87-90 and the 92-95's. You can tell which style CV you have by the bolt count on the diff flange. 87's have 6 bolts spaced in three groups of two and 95's have 5 bolts evenly spaced(IIRC).

The grilleguard I have is a Smittybilt Bumper Thumper. They quit making them a long time ago. I got mine from a junkyard Pathy.

That would be a 87 VG30i, not a VG30E. The 92 is a VG30E. Basically....the intake, the TBI, and that's about it. Does the 92 have a ribbed belt or v-belts? I forget. You might have to swap a pulley if so. Oh, and the 92 will have a knock sensor in the middle of the block on top, the VG30i doesn't have one so you can prolly just unplug it and leave it there.

The EGR valve may be sticking or full of crud. I'd pull it off and try to clean it out with TB cleaner spray first.

I've heard that the 3.3 intake is almost exactly the same as the 3.0 upper intake. *shrug*

Technically speaking, it's not inside the trans, it's in front of it and bolted to the engine flexplate.

Hey, good to know! Thanks for the information.

Copy a stock CL for dimensions and go from there, maybe?

I've never been able to FIND split boots for Pathfinders. There is a temp gauge sending unit for the gauge only, you could try replacing that and see what the gauge does for you afterward. They're not that expensive, and it's right in front of the engine on top, easy to get to.

They like to throw parts at problems, don't they?

Ditto. ^^^