88pathoffroad

Stock timing on a VG30i is 12 degrees. Says so in the FSM. Also, they didn't change cam design until they went to the 3.3. Across the board on all the VG30E's I've seen. Same cams. Doesn't that suck? Anyway, what I was getting at is that seems to indicate to me that you can probably run the VG30i's at 15 and get away with it without a knock sensor. So THAT'S where the extra 8 HP came from!! 86/87 VG30i: 152 HP@5200RPM, 162 TQ@6200 RPM 88/89 VG30i: 145 HP@4800 RPM, 166 TQ@2800 RPM 90-up VG30E: 153 HP@4800 RPM, 180 TQ@4000 RPM

Mwuahahaha. What's up with the man, anyway? Vague idea? Lowbrow explanation? Is it scandalous?

Nope, the brake lines are good as they are for 3" of lift. Braided stainless lines would be a great thing to have though.

It's a cool piece of work, I'll give it that.

If it came with the adjustable shocks, it has them on all four corners. If they no longer work you can buy new OEM ones, but as far as I know there are no companies making aftermarket electrically-adjustable shocks for Pathys.

Harbor Freight Tools. $8.99.

Have you even run the ECU error codes yet?

Do you mean the "Idle-Up Solenoid Valve"? That's on the TBI at the passenger's side, IIRC.

Clean your battery cable connections and the battery terminals before doing anything else.

Things like what? Share the gossip, man!

Ditto, it's not really a problem until you get more lift and more suspension travel in the rear. I've never heard of anyone having DS/pinion angle problems with a WD21.

Jim lost his good job, his wife divorced him and he's living with a GF in Washington now. His Pathy has a blown clutch, hasn't been driven in a year or more. He's driving an old Ford Ranger to work and trying to keep on top of the bills. It's a sad story, but he just doesn't seem to be interested in NPORA anymore. He wouldn't help us get rid of the viruses, wouldn't get me owner access to upgrade the software, and has not responded to emails from hardly anyone. I also believe that he has been using the money people send in for membership to keep the site running, but since nobody's sent anything in in a while, he's been too broke to keep the forum site running.

Ugh, more AC "custom" parts problems. I would've told you not to buy from them...

The AC arms suck, yes. The bushing tubes are cut wrong evidently, I had to cut down the stock sleeves and bushings a little to get them to fit right. The welding was poor with a few holes in a few places I could see, and above all, the balljoint mounting surface is not angled to provide a better balljoint angle when cranking the t-bars like the SL/RC arms have. Basically, the AC UCA's are built nearly flat. The Superlift and Calmini and SLR arms are all built with an angle to them to keep the balljoints within a semi-decent range of angle to compensate for the torsion bars being cranked up. The AC UCA's are also built poorly in that the spindle bushings don't fit into the arms all the way and you have to either mod the bushings themselves or cut down the sleeves to get them to NOT slide back and forth on the bushings, which is generally NOT considered a good quality in UCA's. Here's a pic of a stock UCA, the AC UCA and a Superlift UCA side-by-side. Note that the AC UCA is noticeably shorter than the Superlift UCA and sits nearly flat on the floor, while the stock UCA and Superlift UCA have a nice angle to them. And here's one of how the bushings fit on the AC UCA. Note that there is about 3/16" of bushing sticking out on either side that does not fit into the UCA like it should.

Yep. Do they make clicking noises when you're in 4WD and climbing a hill or anything? If the CV's hit full droop and are being spun real hard they could pretty easily eat up the inside of the CV cage and break.

Not worth it unless you have other mods already in place, like cams, headers and an intake of some sort. THEN the ECU upgrade really helps bring things together.

If you want to pay $300+ for a unit to tell you what the water temp, oil pressure and voltage is, I've also got a bridge in New York to sell, cheap...

Why was this in Product Reviews? Moving...

Dude. Wow. "Tail gating" "purpose" "spare" "barely" "brake" "Cavalier" "apparently" "stopped" "leaving"

That only works on SOME VW's and SOME Mercedes with a central vaccuum locking system. It does work, though. You guys should see how many times this idea is submitted to the Mythbusters site per day. It's ridiculous. By the way: tried it on both Pathys, my van, GF's Toyota, my Isuzu and my brother's Ranger. No dice.

Mine stay stuck on with double-sided 3M foam tape. Works great, just make sure everything's clean and alcohol-swabbed before applying the tape.

It's not an FAQ, is the thing.

Let me get this straight. Your 33's rubbed on a cover on top of the hood when you were turning? Holy crap. I have about 4 of those stock vent covers in my garage, plus I made some replacement vents for mine, like so:

A BL is a body lift. Your arrow is pointing at the stock upper shock mount. You have a few things confused there. The TM 4" lift is a suspension lift.

Search these very forums and you'll find that AT diagnosis thread.