88pathoffroad

No idea, but I doubt it's the same.

Not anymore.

I'd rather roll down the windows and turn up the tunes. In the front under the hood. Attached to the engine and the radiator support. Anything else?

Searching with "e-at switch" for the last 30 days got me this thread: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...&hl=e-at+switch It really does work, you just have to pay attention to the settings so you can search effectively.

Another oil topic cause someone can't figure out whether they want to run synthetic or not? Ugh. Do a little research on the web...

They are not the same front and rear. That question would have been answered by simply looking. Longer shocks in the rear are good, in the front they aren't necessary because the UCA's don't change the amount of travel your IFS has.

By the way, a CB is very simple. It has a 12VDC+ wire, a ground wire and an antenna plug. The most complicated part is finding a good place to install the antenna and where to route the antenna cable inside the vehicle.

All I ask is that people try to search a little before posting repeat questions and questions that are easily answered by searching the web a LITTLE BIT. Sorry if that makes me a jerk, that's how I am. I'm not mad or anything.

Warns are good but overpriced IMHO. Ramsey winches are good as well, Superwinch makes a decent winch, and T-Maxx winches are decent. Warns are best for repeated hard use. The rest are just as good, but frequent hard use will wear out a cheaper winch faster. Just like any other expensive automotive accessory, maintenance is a must for a long life.

*sighs* Why don't you worry about installation after you get one? They DO come with instructions, you know.

You might as well just take in the whole truck and tell them to make the CL bulletproof. That way they aren't constrained to specs someone else gives them that may or may not work properly on your truck after it's welded up. Bringing pics of modded CL's would be a good idea, as well as talking it over to come up with a definite design you want them to follow.

I'd bet your tires were rubbing a little with that much weight in it at stock height. The driveshaft won't rub. On the AC issue, how can anyone tell you what you would need if we aren't looking at it? I can tell you that it may cost you quite a bit to replace the compressor at the very least unless you find a junkyard part.

You know what, if that doesn't bind up anywhere I think it just may work. Good job, man! KISS wins again!

Ahhh, the good ole days have returned! Sort of. Hey, if that lawsuit goes through (I don't see why it wouldn't, with the evidence against the "doctor" in question) the Pathy is as good as fixed! Good to see you back, Jim my man. I wish you many happy returns and an easy life you can enjoy at your leisure.

Just got a call from Jim, wait to hear from the horse's mouth on new news and stuff that's fresh. Things will be a-changing!

Battery cables are cheap, too. Just in case you want to replace yours. Knecht's Auto Parts sells them for about $10 each, in different lengths.

You're going to want to limit use of or reduce the file size of images on the main page. It's got a lot to load and it's awful slow. I'd suggest finding a way to combine all the header pics into a single element via Photoshop or something. Then you could save it as a smaller file and still keep all your pics, but combined, they'll be smaller. Also, try using a simple table for the navigation links, that bordered console-looking thing might look neat but it just takes up space. What you need is a page that loads quickly and is easily navigable without too much flash. Also, way too much neon green for my taste. Just my 2 cents!

If the brushes on the starter are worn enough, it won't click. Mine went just like that...turned slower and slower, then no starter at all. Pulled it, took it apart, low and behold, the brushes were worn completely out. I ordered new brushes for $7 and it got rebuilt on the floor in the garage...it's been working fine ever since.

Check your hubs. Sounds like they're binding up overnight and only loosen up when they warm up.

In the US? Yes, but only if you have the cash to do so. You'd have to buy a JDM or EU diesel engine, we never got them in the US. Also, US dealerships don't carry diesel parts, so it's going to be tough if you ever break anything or need parts.

Check all the wiring in the front where it was damaged first. Do you have any trailer wiring installed? Check that second if so.

Starter's gone out on ya. They do that when the brushes wear out. It'll turn slower and slower, then it just won't crank any more at all, regardless of battery power.

Oh, it's dead. Sorry. Some arsehole hacked the forums and killed it.

Having banged our noggins together several times and then allowed the bruising/swelling to go down, we have decided that RedPath88 deserved to be made a moderator for NPORA too. CONGRATS, SCOTT!

A DETT swap will be expensive and time-consuming. You'll need a LOT of custom-fabbed parts to make the stock intakes and all work in a cramped Pathy engine bay.