88pathoffroad

Ebay maybe, parts store otherwise.

Damn man, this reminds me of ChromoTech's posts. He just about needed everything spelled out three times. It's not rocket science. Simple answers: You do not need new shocks when replacing rear springs. You do not need new torsion bars when replacing UCA's. You do not need new front shocks when cranking up the t-bars. The stock t-bars can be re-indexed for a little more lift before you need new t-bars. Reindexing is where you remove the front or rear anchor from the t-bar and put it back on two or three splines off so that you can crank it up more. There are quite a few articles on how to do this on the net already. The JGC coil springs should be MEASURED BEFORE PURCHASE. You do not want coils that won't give you any lift. The coils need to be at least .54" wire diameter. Stock Nissan coils are .50" diameter. I have the .58" diameter coils and they give 3" of lift with no rear tire carrier. New UCA's do not come with balljoints, they are separate. Anything else?

F a VQ40, get a 45DE from a Infiniti Q45.

Racers in Japan used to use some fairly large coolers. I'd say the same size as the trans cooler would be fine. And yes, I was referring to adding a cooler, not simply adding a relocation kit, although you will get a small additional cooling effect from the filter being off the engine and the hoses as well.

The V6 has the same bolt pattern through 99 AFAIK. The only thing you have to worry about is finding a 4-cyl trans, which is not the same at all.

All that thing does is make the intake quieter. I doubt you'll get any more power from removing it.

That'd work. Cooler engine oil is always beneficial. Make sure you use good high-pressure hose.

Count the stud holes on both centersections. If they match, it should bolt in. Also, if your rear brakes are discs the new diff will have to be from a disc rear otherwise you'll have to take it all apart and remove the thrust block from the center of the diff. Disc rears have a spacer, drum rears don't, so drum axles won't fit into a disc centersection until you pull the block.

Jim isn't putting new members up. I hope you didn't send money for membership, cause it's not gonna come back.

Yeah, they have to desolder the chip and program a new one, then solder it back in or use a ROM seat and solder that back in instead. Lee from L&P has a chip reader and editor, he says the factory maps SUCK.

...and you didn't take pictures?!? BAD MARTIN! I guess it'll have to stay there till it rots. It's evidently not feasible to attempt to remove it...nor worth the expense.

Very, very nice, man! Wonderful job! Everything on there is well-thought-out and built like a Mack truck. I like it!

87-89 had 6 bolts, 90-up has 5 bolts.

It was off for relocation because we were putting on a 3" body lift at the time. The bumper is on now.

He didn't have a spare, so he just wanted it bolted to the flat bit where the tire usually goes. Four holes, four nuts and bolts. Tough job, I know.

What recall?

AFAIK there's no immobilizer setup on the stock alarm, but I could be wrong, maybe they changed it. Unplug the alarm unit under the driver's side seat.

Most jerry cans fit a generic mount that will easily bolt on to most tire carriers. You just have to have one in the first place. I bolted one onto Ramithepimp's WD21 in about 15 minutes.

Make it what? All I get is the main page for Rancho's website. What were we supposed to be looking at?

Ditto ^^^

I really don't see the need for 33's if you don't offroad it much. 31's do GREAT in more places than you'll care to go. 33's will give you less power and worse fuel mileage, and then your steering will need parts...the list goes on, you know? When I get some extra cash I'm buying a set of 31's for around-town driving. 33's kill me on the street.

The AIV is an air induction valve. It controls the amount of air fed to the catalytic converter or exhaust to help it burn unburned fuel more completely. There are check valves in the case that are supposed to prevent exhaust gas from being fed back through the case and into the intake. All it does is feed outside air to the exhaust when the exhaust pressure is negative. It's totally dedicated to emissions, nothing else. I took mine out and haven't noticed any problems, my exhaust is still in decent shape after 5 years or so.

Five I think, innit?

Huge difference over stock, eh?

Damn, dude. Do you really need a stainless x-pipe that bad? $65 is hiiiiigh.