88pathoffroad

NO!!!! You do NOT have to replace the radiator, all you need to do is install an external high-capacity trans fluid cooler! Who told you that?!? All that does is replace the old stock cooler with a new one that will STILL clog up - and kill your trans! I've said it a hundred times... DO NOT USE THE STOCK COOLER AT ALL. Use an external cooler if you want your trans to live.

No, that's a Calmini UCA.

There are no kits, and as far as I know, not one single person in the US has done a turbo on the 3.5 in a Pathfinder. I think you're on your own there man.

Measure it with a caliper. If it's the same diameter, the spline count should also be the same.

Me too. I'd like some measurements to compare mine to to see what's off.

LOL, Martin. Good points all. I once had the pleasure of having some guy road-rage on me and nearly cause an accident in the fast lane of I-5. Me: Chevy van, loaded. 6500 lbs. Asshat: Ford Aspire, possibly 1800 lbs? Me: Driving along at 70 in the fast lane on I-5. Limit: 65. Traffic: Medium. Cars in all three lanes, lots of trucks in the slow lane. Asshat: *ride ass, ride ass* Me: What an asshat. Asshat: *attempts to pass in the middle lane* Me: *grins and speeds up to foil his evil plot* Asshat: *cannot pass, swerves behind me REALLY on my ass and flashes lights and honks horn indignantly* Me: What an asshat!! Asshat: *honks horn, turns high beams on and leaves them on* Me: *floors it and goes from 65 to 85, leaving Asshat behind* Asshat: *gives chase with high beams still on* Me: There's room to pass, he can go the hell around me if he wants it that bad. Asshat: *ride ass, ride ass* Me: Jesus Christ, what an asshat!! Get out from behind me! Asshat: *zooms around me in the middle lane, honking the whole time and waving a 50ish middle finger at me, peering through thick glasses and gargling incoherent inaudible curses* Me: ASSHAT!!! *gives the finger back* Asshat: *swerves in front of teh Tan Van and locks up the brakes* ...in the fast lane on I-5 in traffic. Me: OMGWTFASSHAT!! *brakes hard and swerves around Asshat on the shoulder as everything in teh Van tumbles and rolls to the front cause I have a lot of shxt in here* Asshat: *zoooms off into traffic* Me: Get back here, you asshat! *calls State Police and gives them the plate number* I never did hear if they got that guy. I'm a sad panda.

Raising the inlet to the hole won't get you anywhere, the fluid will stop flowing in when it reaches the top of the hole inside the case anyway unless you have the truck tilted.

No...you should probably rotate them back exactly the way they were to prevent smashing a valve against a piston yourself, which is what you're trying to avoid in the first place by changing the belt.

The e-brake thing barely works, and only some of the time. Try it yourself. If you're in a spot where you get one rear tire off the ground and can't make any forward progress, pull the e-brake while gassing it. Sometimes it will slow down the spinning wheel and allow the other one to grab more.

The DRL modules like to cause problems, I've seen quite a few go out on people. Can you find one cheap locally at a junkyard, maybe?

That's a fairly straightforward swap, actually. Lots of people do their own manual trans.

Oh damn...something big and solid broke off underneath. Clear out some snow and crawl under with a flashlight. Take pictures for us, this is likely to be nasty.

I suppose pulling backward may put more strain and downward pressure on the front end, making it possible to break things more easily, but it's not a common problem at all. I've pulled numerous people out in reverse with no problems.

I think they are, it's the bushings that are different. There are different diameter holes for different shock bolts, etc.

That makes no sense whatsoever to me, but if you say so...

BROTHER!! *gives a manly bear-hug and slaps on the back*

Cool beans, man. How do you like 'em?

Hmmm, IIRC it's a skosh below E on mine. It means you have 3-4 gallons left max.

Those are terrible. Generic-looking rubber flaps you have to cut to fit...might as well getcha some vinyl wall base molding and use that.

This topic has been beat to DEATH already... Rancho 5000's are stiff but not too bad, $40 each. PC 3000's are a little softer but very comparable to the Rancho 5000's. $130 for a set of 4 from 4wheelparts.com, IIRC. PC 9000's are stiffer and a little bit tougher than the 3000's. They have the specs listed on 4wheelparts.com... Superlift what, shocks? 'Bout the same as 5000's IIRC.

First make sure they're the adjustable shocks. If they just put regular ones on they obviously aren't adjustable.

No you don't. You can run a 12.5 on a 7-inch wheel if you want. Mine are on 8.5's and they're 13.5 wide.

Does it really? Damn. I'll go look on mine. Hold on. *goes and looks* 5000 lbs gross weight, fully loaded. That's what it is.

This has already been written up in the Garage under How-To's forum! I'm moving this back out to the Garage for reference purposes. It takes me all of 30 minutes to swap out both, you do NOT have to remove the wheels OR jack up the truck. Matter of fact, it's worlds easier to leave it on the ground. No stepping on the brake. Use new grade 8.8 or 12.6 bolts (8x1.25x50mm) instead of the Warn studs, the studs break very easily and do not stay tight. After step #6, you should slide on the hub and then REINSTALL THE SNAP-RING, unless you want your axle to move around and collect water, dirt and grit on the inside where your wheel bearings are. Then bolt up the hub and torque to spec, THEN add the cap. Otherwise it's a real pain to get a socket on the bolt heads because the cap gets in the way.

Please do a little searching here before posting repeat questions... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12875