88pathoffroad

Jim told me he would be taking care of it on the phone, so I quit messing with it. Should we really move it now? *shrug*

Right on, man!

Unplug the module under the driver's seat.

You need to take a look at the front diff. It's not going to be possible to simply weld new parts on and make it a solid axle. Sorry. It hasn't got enough width and where would you get axles to fit it?

I was under the impression that the same hubs fit the 02-04's. Anyone else?

Regular auto parts stores don't carry oil filter relocation kits. I ordered mine from Summit, they run around $60.

Mine has no bumpsteer. Do you have a steering stabilizer?

The 84-86 300ZX Turbos have their own little jewel: The fabled Borg-Warner T5 transmission that can be used to get a different drivetrain bolted up behind the VG. Keep a lookout for those, they didn't continue with the body refresh for 87. Would that T5 happen to have a removable bellhousing? Yes, it is removable. No, it will not bolt up to the TX-10A. The T-5 is a completely different animal from the Nissan-produced transmissions. Beauty of it is you can use the bellhousing and cobble together parts from a Jeep T5 I believe to use a D300 or any other case that can adapt to the T5. Thus you don't have to stick with Driver's drop front axles for SASing anymore. *stoled from Nissanoffroad.net*

Third member axles are designed with the gears and center carrier built into a removable section in the center of the axle, which unbolts from the front and can be removed after the axles are removed. The other type of axle is a fixed-carrier design that has the gears bolted inside the axle and are only removable from the rear through an access cover. The Pathy rear H233B is a third member axle. The front R200A is a fixed carrier axle. The C200 rear in 2WD trucks is a fixed-carrier axle also IIRC.

The thermostat kit I bought came with a relay. I dunno what rating it has, though.

Yup, 60 amps on the 87-89's (V6 and 4-cyl) with 50 amps available at 2500 RPM's, per the FSM.

That sucks. My brother's friend was trying to help install a MT in his RX-7 a long time ago and made the mistake of tipping the trans down with his face under the tailshaft. He got a nice new stinky hairdo courtesy of the old gear oil inside... From experience, the torque converter bolts are likely Loc-Tited on and it takes quite a bit of torque to get them out. The starter hole access doesn't help. An impact wrench would work great if you can get one in there. An air ratchet might do it too, if you can pump up the air pressure AND get a bit of arm power on the bolts. It'd be easiest with two people, one to prevent the crank of the engine from turning and one to hang over a fender with a 3/8" drive ratchet, a wobbly extension and a u-joint with a 2' stick of pipe (pick your poison on access) for extra torque...heh.

Yep. When I reindexed mine I didn't pull the bars out of the LCA anchors, I just WD-40'ed the piss out of the adjusters and banged 'em off after match-marking the anchor to the t-bar so you know where you were and where you need to be. That's an important thing, write that down.

You can clean it, yes, but the gap won't be the same. I dunno how important that is, but in the interest of best performance I'd buy the new $7 rotor.

Like I've said so many times before: have someone else rock the steering wheel back and forth for you while you inspect the steering parts so you can ID the cause as closely as possible.

I'd tend to agree if the flush in question is a "power-fill" type machine like the type I used to use at Jiffy Lube years ago. A tank full of fresh fluid either gravity feeds or is pressure-fed/pumped into one cooler line while an empty tank on the machine fills with the old fluid from the other line. Works very well to change all the fluids. You could even watch the machine and see when clean fluid started coming back into the catch tank, that way you wouldn't waste fluid unnecessarily.

That means that your power transistor for the coil is likely to be bad. They're a spendy little bastard to replace, though... mine was $110. You could always try to find a junkyard coil/transistor for cheap, it'd probably work fine.

Yeah, you'll need the wiring plugs for the 93 gaugeset to make it work.

Here we go again? Hi, Jay.

Actually, the fluid spec change was apparently done with no change in design or material on the transfer case. They're all the same from 87-95 at least(with exception to 92-ups that use a vehicle speed sensor in the t-case, earlier models have a VSS in the rear of the transmission instead). It's been theorized that any TX10 transfer case can run on either type of fluid and be perfectly fine. Mine takes GL-4 as per my FSM.

That's exactly how mine was after the first time I did the t-belt and got it off by one tooth on the crank. It ran fine, just way low on power and getting terrible mileage.

The amp IS turning on, isn't it?

The automatic-equipped engines come with a pilot bushing adapter, yes. At least, they're supposed to.

How the hell?

...and spent $100 or more to do it. That was my point. Replacements boots and grease are cheap and it's easy to do.