88pathoffroad

Does this help any?

No idea, I've never had to use it. If you have aftermarket window tint it may be covering the grid...just FYI.

FYI: removing and reinstalling new t-bars involves nearly the exact same amount of work as reindexing them. Should I crawl under my Pathy and take more pics for a How-To on reindexing? heh

I've seen someone build their own out of an old rear hitch, but it was all one-off. No aftermarket companies make front hitches for a Pathy AFAIK. You might be able to find a universal bolt-on tow-behind kit somewhere for RV towing, though.

Regular 60/40 should work fine, that's what I used. I used a small propane torch to preheat the armature bits and brush wire ends carefully, then fluxed both sides lightly, then I used a soldering iron to melt the solder in and make sure it stuck.

I would check your cap and rotor first. Besides timing belt issues, a MAF sensor issue could contribute to your problem...wiggle the MAF sensor wiring while it's running and see if it changes the idle or anything. The VG30E MAF sensor wiring is notorious for possibly hitting the underside of the hood and damaging itself. Connectors also corrode over time. You can also pull and clean the MAF sensor... There's a thread covering that topic in the Garage: How-To section.

Good work, man. My dad had to do the same thing when his battery terminal broke on his Ford van.

What stats do you have? I've just been working on building up strength, agility and guard for the last couple of days...up to nearly 8000 each so far. I have a Medium Rundown Shop, not too many fabbers in my offroad shop(+/- 80), and I'm waiting for my $3 to clear for a boost in oil and some % on energy. Nobody told me the shop was a prime way to make money...I didn't even mess with it until I was up to about level 40. Use your shop turns every day if you can! The more fabbers you have, the more product they produce and the more you make. I still don't know what "Use Sales" means. How the hell do you "use sales" of any kind, anyway? Last time I tried I got like $3 for my efforts.

Law69: Sure. I put one on MaritimeMan's rig and it's a 93 IIRC. NaturaTak: Sure is. Works great.

Second part from the left is the armature with the brushes in it. Brushes are small blocks of carbon with copper wire embedded that transfer electrical power from the battery to the commutator and back out of the starter. They are spring-loaded to keep in solid contact with the surface of the commutator. When the brushes wear out(carbon is very soft), they no longer transfer electricity smoothly and you end up with the starter losing the ability to start the vehicle reliably because power can't transfer from the brushes through the commutator. You have to thoroughly clean the whole thing and solder the brush wiring back into the armature. Not an easy task with all the oil that gets in there... The solenoid usually doesn't fail, so I left mine alone. The solenoid is where all the battery cables hook up and the wiring plug is, the part to the far right at top.

You have to find where the break in the grid is and fix it for it to work again. As long as one works you know it's getting power, the grid on the glass simply has a broken circuit somewhere.

It's a game bug that surfaced when they did some server-swapping. Everyone is affected by it. I still have a Shovel on trails for instance, even though I have a High-Lift equipped and don't own the Shovel any more...

That's pretty nice. I have some utility pole anchors with spiral digger ends on them that work much the same way, but they're 6 feet long.

Wax choke could be sticking, so could the IAB solenoid in the TB...

It's actually much cheaper to just plain use Nut Mix to refresh energy than it is to use ANY Barf Bars. Someone on the other forum did a comparison...

The front diff should NOT spin in 2WD as long as the auto hubs unlock OK and aren't screwed up. Just an FYI. When I put mine in 2WD and jack it up you can spin the driveshaft by hand freely, which means it's totally disco'ed from the rest of the drivetrain. There was actually no real need to remove the driveshaft unless the hubs were physically broken or locked up...

Basically, you need to disassemble the whole thing, take the electric motor apart and replace the brushes. I ordered brushes from a local auto parts place, took a couple of days but they were able to order them fine. Cost me around $7 IIRC. If you've never done any electric motor work, I wouldn't really recommend it but hey, if you're in it to win it it couldn't hurt.

Could also be the harmonic balancer. They tend to slip a little and start squeaking when you need a new one.

The top is the pigtail end, yes. The spacer will likely have a groove in it for the pigtail.

Try looking in the Garage - "How-To" section for your answer.

I can't see 33's fitting decently (with only a 3" SL) without some fairly heavy fender trimming, but go ahead, you'll find out for yourself.

I reindexed my saggy stock t-bars long, long ago and they still work great to this day. There is no worry of breaking them or overstressing them by reindexing. I don't know who told you that, but they're wrong. I've run mine reindexed for at least 4-5 years over some of the roughest terrain I could find. A Lock-Right locker replaces four spider gears in your rear diff and locks both axles together so when you hit the gas you spin both tires. LSD only goes so far in spinning tires. Oft-times a LSD will let one side go and you'll be sitting in one place spinning one tire, even with LSD. A front LSD was a VERY VERY rare factory option, rear is much more common. 99.99% of WD21's have an open front diff. Stock LSD's are clutch-type, a VLSD wouldn't work well on an offroad vehicle. You might like it for on-road driving, but the first time you go offroad and get hung up on something you'll wish for more ground clearance. Unless you're content to merely drive the gravel roads and paved highways... Yep. Re-gearing isn't really a viable option unless you have about $2000 to toss into the mix...

Is there a specific source for that? A pic, or a link or a script? I don't get any alerts for that page and I can't see anything wrong with it...

I find it ridiculous that you should have to pay for the service in the first place. Nissan is denying the problem exists and it's not right at all.

I like the forum responses..."we had to figure everything out for ourselves, so can you" What a crock of sh1t. Seriously.