88pathoffroad

Bottom line: yes, you can but it won't give you any noticeable boosts.

Ya know, this game is interesting but fairly poorly meshed. Why the huge discrepancy between oil and money, and why have oil at all in the first place? Why are store items priced so ridiculously far apart? WTF...I also like the lack of game explanations, I love blindly clicking on things to see what they do for hours on end. What's the point of even having a jail if the second you get put in it you get busted out by someone else? I've been put in there at least 10 times and never stayed in for more than 10 seconds. Why is it a "Crime" to look for items in an alley or along the trail, and why do I never find anything when I try? What a crock. Also: the forum "Faq" sucks balls.

Some people get their kicks from the lowest of actions...d1ck!

That's a generic warning for Ford or Dodge axles, I believe. Am I wrong?

Allright, I got 'er done. *goes to read the FAQ/How-To*

I'd figure out which wire goes to the headlight switch and turns on the dash lights. That's about as central as you can get, I think.

Dude, as close as you can is NOT where it needs to be. You have to have that thing put in the EXACT same way the old one came out or your spark timing will be so far off you won't be able to start it. Best bet: find TDC for #1 cylinder at compression stroke, then check to see where the rotor is pointing on the distributor. It needs to point like this on the V6:

Google it. HID = High Intensity Discharge HID's are arclights, not filament lights. Biiiig difference in light output and life expectancy.

Are you in Canada? If so, you have a daytime running light module in the exact area you described. Sometimes you can tap on it to get it working again and sometimes it just plain needs to be replaced. Other Canucks may have more details than I, I'm in Oregon.

Pull up the carpet in the cargo area, open the hatch in the floor and examine your wiring. If the sending unit wiring came off or is corroded that would cause your problem. No dropping the tank!

Yep. Make sure you get a clean clamp onto the tire rack and then run a separate ground wire from the antenna bracket to the Pathy's body. That thing needs SOLID grounding to work right. Lots of people have antennas on the spare rack.

Have you run the ECU error codes to see if any errors are stored just in case?

You need help getting it up, eh? Does the cable move at all or no? In the cold weather it could have frozen. Aside from that, if it moves, the cable probably broke...take a flashlight and look behind the hood latch handle mount under the dash to see if it broke at the handle and see if there's some cable still sticking out of the hole a little so you can grab it with Vise-Grips to open your hood. If you can see a short end of the broken cable on the end of the handle but not poking out of the cable sheath, you may have luck cutting some of the sheath away until the cable is exposed so you can use the Vise-Grips. Aside from cutting a hole in the front edge of the hood, I don't really see a way to reach the latch end. Anyone else?

You could try looking at the top of this very forum at the "New decals check out price" thread...

I just tried registering three times in a row and the goddamn image verification bit screwed me every time due to the font type. F*ck it.

The Power mode should be turned on by a little WOT switch under the dash on top of the gas pedal linkage as well as the switch. When the gas pedal is floored the switch should theoretically automatically trigger Power mode.

Knock sensor would run ya $63 from RockAuto.com...

IIRC the DETT block is different to accommodate the DOHC heads. IMHO the only real performance mods I would consider when digging that far into a VG30 would be beefing up the bottom end for a turbo or supercharger. Keeping it NA will only get you so far with the SOHC. A forged VG30ET crank and rods would be a good start if there were a short snout version available to use with your stock VG30E balancer, pulleys and accessories. (Or perhaps the long-snout version could be machined to fit.) You could try asking over at VGPowered forums, there are a few more engine-heads over there that could probably help you out more. http://vgpowered.informe.com/index.php

IIRC Frankencar is the only company offering an intake kit for R50 Pathfinders specifically.

I've shifted on the fly at the beach with auto hubs tons of times with no grinding or scratchy noises whatsoever.

Chilton's says no need, pack the pump full of petroleum jelly first, then start 'er up when ready.

The power transistor on the coil can go bad, but they're sealed so I doubt a dunking will kill one. Check the wiring connectors for corrosion or looseness?

For a 87-89 VG30i, there should be an EGR bung, an AIV bung and an O2 sensor bung on the driver's side header. The set of Pacesetters I removed from an 89 has all three bungs. The crossover pipe SHOULD be where the O2 sensor goes, but they apparently don't care about relocation issues with their headers. Hopefully the O2 sensor will work OK by just reading the A/F ratio off the driver's side bank of cylinders. Lee from L&P told me once that they run lean on the other side at times, though.

FYI, the boots are worthless and I've never run them. All they do is trap mud, sand and salt inside to further corrode your piston rod. Shock boots are the frilly lace curtains of the suspension world. The 9000's are for hard-core heavy-duty use. Go read the webpage at 4wheelparts. You decide what you want and need. http://www.4wheelparts.com/manufacturer-pa...EXP&catid=1

Here's another link to the above poster's thread: http://www.nissanforums.com/pathfinder/140...ve-failure.html