88pathoffroad

Under the hood, on the passenger's side near the firewall. Check the vacuum line that feeds the CC diaphragm. No vacuum = no CC.

Actually, all you have to do is use 87-92 outer TRE's, cut them down a little and bolt it up.

I've never heard of that person, that's not Josh from the stickied thread selling decals, is it?

A body lift is only applicable to WD21 (87-95) Pathys. That's where you unbolt the body and add spacer blocks between the body and frame to raise the body off the frame for more tire clearance. Body lift kits come in 2" or 3" heights and cost between $100 and $150. 93-95's need a special kit due to the rearmost body mount bolts being different from 87-92's. A suspension lift involves either replacing all 4 coil springs (on an R50), or by installing aftermarket upper control arms, cranking up the torsion bars and replacing the rear coil springs (on a WD21). There is also a drop-bracket lift kit (Trailmaster 4") that drops the front diff and torsion bars down 4" with brackets to give you lift. Not knowing which Pathy you have, I can't tell you all the limitations but we can start from here...

Resize your pics!! 1.5 MB pics are way too big for anyone on dial-up. 100-200K is the max.

Eeeeeh, AFAIK Lee was making the CL's before he moved. That's why the change in weld quality, perhaps?

Nice! Good for you! *snort* Use lots of lube. That's a lot of cleaning! Good deal. Sounds like you're well on your way to becoming a Pathy modifying driver! As before, lots of lube. The drip-feed cleaning they do is for the intake only AFAIK. I used to work at a Jiffy Lube. It helps but doesn't touch the injectors. I would also recommend taking an old toothbrush and some throttlebody cleaner and scrubbing the throttlebody out, they tend to gum up big-time with nasty sticky black stuff. Clean your MAF sensor carefully as well (there is a thread on how to do that in the Garage How-To section) for a double-whammy of cleaning goodness. If he's offering to do the job for cheap, I'd take him up on the exhaust pipe replacement. Go one size bigger than stock from the catalytic converter back to the muffler and tailpipe for a little boost in power and sound. The Flowmaster muffler will be kind of loud, be prepared. Have your cousin go over the steering setup with you first. With the engine off and the truck on the ground, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth slowly so you can both watch the steering parts move. If anything has play in it, it will be evident and you'll know what to replace a little better than simply throwing parts at it and hoping it gets fixed. For the balljoints, I'm sure your cuz knows how to check those, you have to move the wheel up and down to see if the BJ's move. Nope, you could put 18" wheels with 31" tires on, the only difference is the hole in the center of the tire, the overall height of the tire doesn't change. You need at least a 3" body lift to fit 33's. There's simply not enough room under there. With a 3" suspension lift and a 3" body lift they fit fine but you'll still need to trim a little bit of fenderwell out of the way. Oh, they'll probably still fit OK. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Mine are the same, terrible. You can try to adjust the rear brakes so they grab better(if you have drum brakes in the rear) but aside from that I dunno what to say. Some people have done a swap of the master cylinder...to a Chevy fullsize truck MC. THat definitely helps. More line pressure and all you need to do is drill the mounting holes on the Chevy MC a little larger/offset so it bolts on, then swap brake lines onto it with a flaring kit and some new fittings. Pretty easy, and you can find out yourself. Crank the t-bar adjusters up and see what kind of lift you get. If you can crank them all the way tight and still get very little lift, you'll need to pull the anchors off the t-bars and move them over two or three splines to re-index them and allow for more lift. T-bars tend to sag over time. Here's a link on how you adjust those bad boys. http://www.geocities.com/pathfinderoffroad/techtbarlift.html Check for rust, you already have the timing belt thing under control. I can't think of too many more things. OD should normally be ON. Turn it off when climbing hills on the freeway or when you need a little more passing power. You can turn it on or off whenever you want. Exhaust manifold studs breaking, the manifolds themselves usually are not the problem. The proper fix for any broken studs is to remove them and use 300ZX turbo exhaust studs to replace them with. The switches are likely broken or need fixing. They do that sometimes. The wiper motor could be shot as well, you never can tell. I actually have quite a few switches in a big grocery bag in my garage, if you want I can check for a wiper and hatch switch for you. For the stereo, it sounds like you have the 12V continuous and the 12V switched wires backwards. On the trans, I'd change the fluid and install a new cooler to boot. The stock cooler is EVIL. EVIL EVIL EVIL. Don't attempt to make sweet sweet love to it, you'll likely lose pieces. Changing out the shifter will be fun, hopefully the only thing broken in it is the shifter knob. One screw and it comes off, though! No idea on the Reverse accident, hopefully again it didn't do much.

I really don't see the point of "rebuilding" everything if it doesn't need it. Redo what is necessary and go from there.

Alternators should stop at or near 15V, not 17. I've had an old Ford bucket truck pop it's voltage regulator and burn out every light bulb on the truck before. What a PITA!

Should be the same, yeah.

For aftermarket fog or driving lights, you can't beat PIAAs. Pro-Comp makes nice lights, Hella does too.

Download an owner's manual for it and see if the info is in there? I think you can find one free at Nissan USA's website.

How'd you get that shock off? Those things are so close together I've always had to.

Do you have 14 volts with it running or off? If you have 14V with the engine off, it could very well be overcharging.

Flexplate, drive plate, either/or...it's still completely outside the transmission and there's no way for crap to get into it.

Replacing shocks is one of the easier things to do. Takes a ratchet with a 17mm and 14mm socket size and about an hour. To do the driver's side rear, you need to unbolt the lower panhard rod mount and drop it out of the way temporarily. That's about it. Easy peasy. Get under there and have a look, it's fairly obvious where all the bolts are and where things go.

On what? How to check the codes with no Check Engine light on the dash? Pull the seat and watch the little blinky liiiiiights.

Very nice!! Good work man. We'll have to get someone to measure a 3.3 crank for us for comparison purposes. This would make a 3.3 swap MUCH easier if it'd fit OK or with minimal mods. No crank swapping, just drop a short block in and bolt it up.

I linked them back here...

It looks dusty and derelict since it's been sitting in the garage with a busted tranny for the last year and a half or so.

Oh crap...I forgot. Damn hosting company. Sorry. The MAF is right after your air filter box...

That's real nice. Maybe he's trying to make enough to put refunds together?

I swapped a 93-98 Quest 110 amp alt into mine. I don't see why not if you have the time and can mod it to fit.

The Jeep spring thing is for 87-95's only, 96-ups use larger springs. About your only option is the AC lift kit.