88pathoffroad

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What year and engine? Could be a bad speedo, bad cable(if so equipped), bad wiring(if so equipped), bad speed sensor, speed sensor gear stripped out.

The two cables going to the TB are a giveaway... Cruise control and gas pedal.

New high-flow cats are under $100 usually and easy to install by a muffler shop. Check local pricing if possible.

Or you could look here for tips... http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html And here for wiring products... http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

AFAIK you only have one O2 sensor. Good to know, did a bad knock sensor cause idle or drivability issues or did it just annoy you with the CEL?

Pop the bulb and extract the base with pliers gently? They come out eventually.

Do a compression test to check for damaged rings, valves or pistons first. If the test turns out OK, I wouldn't really worry about it. If one is off by more than 10-20 lbs, I'd start worrying.

Could be as simple as a shot starter or corroded battery cables, or it could be some of the wiring between the ignition switch and the starter relay and the solenoid wire. Can't tell from here. Thanks for the heads up, hopefully with some more feedback we can help you fix her starter problem.

On the 87-92's the guards usually bolt to the frame at the bottom (where the tow hook is, on each side) and/or onto the bolts through the bumper-to-frame brackets on the outside of the bumper. If you take a look, you'll see multiple round bolt heads for the bumper on the front near the license plate spot in the middle. On the 93-95's the upper mounts go through the bumper where the fog light holes are and go to the same bumper-to-frame brackets but inside the bumper instead of on the front of it. My Smittybilt (same as the above Ebay auction) bolts solely to the bumper-to-frame bracket bolts on the outside of the bumper. I drilled the holes and upgraded the bolts to 1/2" (?) Grade 8 SAE's instead of using the stock bolts because stock bolts are short, wimpy carriage-head grade 8.8 8mm metric, I think.

If you do dig into the charcoal canister, make sure all your lines are clear. Charcoal from the canister has a sneaky way of filtering into your evap lines and clogging them up badly. It's a common complaint.

They're supposed to unbolt from the body. See the 10mm nut at the base of the ball-stud against the body on each end of the lift support?

Depends on what's making the noise. Sometimes it's just the front crossmember-to-frame bolts needing to be re-torqued, sometimes it's turn stops, sometimes it's a centerlink, tie rod, idler arm or balljoint. It could also be a wallered-out compression rod, engine mount (possible, not likely), UCA bushings or a bent UCA spindle.

I don't see why bigger tires would change the shift points like that. The TCU is set to shift at XX RPM's and XX speed, why would changing tire size change the shift points to XX++ at XX++? I went from 31's to 33's and it still shifts at the same places it used to.

They're around $200 new if that helps...and yes, balljoint spacers can cause damage to stock UCA's. Apparently they're not meant to be used offroad.

Nope, it's before the cat. I took mine off when it broke up internally and haven't had any problems with it since.

The upload feature is not working anymore. For some reason it quit on us. Sorry. I keep forgetting to call IPB for help on that.

I didn't see anything posted about the solenoid trigger wire, perhaps I missed it. Do the relay and solenoid wire work as prescribed?

I think the offset is a little more than 1.1 inches, isn't it? Cool wheels.

As long as the ATF meets or exceeds Dexron III standards, sure.

Who told you there was a pump on the front axle? Nope, sorry. No such thing. Many R50 owners have Warn hubs installed with no problems. Go check out the How-To section in the Garage for how to clean your TB...

Anyone have a website link or news article we can read about this in? Word of mouth is one thing...

That's not a NISMO FPR, for one (hence the "universal" description), and for another thing, why would you need one? Different FPR's shouldn't increase performance by any measurable amount on a stock engine.

Being as the fill plug is on the side, I think you'd better tip it to one side instead of just up.

Depends on what springs you get, of course. Mine give a full 3" of lift.