88pathoffroad

yeah, PB is greeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaat!

Tried pinching a bit of cloth or rubber in the hinge to tighten it up a little? Rubber would work better, heh.

IIRC that's the blower off a SC Frontier with the lower intake to go with it. I could be wrong.

I've been re-using the same snap ring with no problems.

Could be a hood switch on the fritz. Is your rear hatch tight? You can simply unplug the module under the driver's seat if it's not working.

Consider it edited.

Nah, we never had any problems and it IS Jim's forum to begin with. I give up on why he's not participating. Wow, Scott. Does that auto-update on the hour or daily or what? Good man, keeping the forum alive behind the scenes...

A 15 should be fine. 10 if you don't have a 15. You don't want to go too high or you run the risk of overheating wires and melting stuff somewhere. On 87-early 90's the fog light switch was either a rectangular one in the dash or it was a little plastic push-pull switch mounted low down under the dash on the right side, same as Chris has. I've seen three junkyard Pathys with the push-pull switch, one was yellow and two were red.

Considering you have to remove the transmission to get to it, yeah. What if it's not the RMS and you pay all that money to have it changed? Make sure first...

People have driven on broken tension rods before simply cause they didn't know it was broken. I'd take it real easy now that you know, though.

LOL!!

When I added the third brake light on my Pathy I simply screwed it down with self-tapping screws. The gasket on the light prevents leaks AFAIK and it hasn't come loose yet. I think the stock 3rd light is a bit small to be making out wording on it unless you're up close.

Nice bumper setup!! I'd save up for a few pieces of diamond plate or similar material cut-to-fit to fill in the holes under the turn signals and keep road debris out of the front end. There are a TON of little-to-large rocks that hit the front of your vehicle while driving, wrecking your AC condensor or radiator is a definite let-down when trying to go places.

I don't think it will, but FYI the 40 series mufflers have always had the "loud" reputation. The 50's are quieter IIRC.

Lee (formerly of L&P) had the same idea. He never got around to doing it, though. The stock single TBI flowed enough air to feed 15 psi on top of a blower! That says "good enough" to me!

When I pulled the A/T and t-case from the 89 I had, I just took out the trans-to-engine bolts and wiggled it backwards until it came off. Then I attacked the torque converter through the starter hole. Those bolts were TIGHT and there's very little room to get leverage with. I suggest having someone help you by putting a socket on the crank bolt to keep the engine from turning over while you loosen the TC bolts. There's no real easy way to do it alone without it becoming a REAL PITA.

Check to make sure your brake light switch still works and is plugged in. Do the marker lights come on or nothing at all?

I've attempted to mess with mine, but there are no hinge brackets inside the body to begin with. I've tried stuffing stock brackets (pulled from a junkyard Pathy) inside the corners on mine; the lower one simply does not fit in there with the body all welded together as it sits. I'm sure that with the right kind of bracket it's possible, but bottom line: you need the correct internal tire carrier hinge brackets to bolt one on. The lower latch bolts may or may not already be present, I can't tell without holesawing the sheetmetal out of the way to find out.

I think you'd have to massively overbore a stock MAF to gain any reasonable results (~40mm stock to +/- 60mm? (I've never measured stock size)) and the larger bore may or may not affect how the MAF works in the first place, so hmmm. I couldn't say.

Stock fog lights are relayed and do not have the same wiring problems AFAIK.

I know that 2-door Pathys never had keyless entry, even on the SE. Even with a stock alarm.

Access to the torque converter bolts is through the starter hole. Somehow you have to attempt to prevent the engine from turning over while also attempting to remove the loc-tited bolts one at a time. The trans will come off without unbolting the TC, though. The gusset is a flat plate that goes between the engine and trans, you can't take that out till the trans is pulled off the TC far enough. Make sure all the bolts are out and make sure the top of the trans isn't hitting the floor anywhere and preventing it from moving.

Wow, good score. Put 'em on and take some pics!

*snic* Why yes, yes it is. Sorry for the unjustified rant, all. ^^^ (apology)

Ya know you can get the Pro-Comp ES3000's for less from 4wheelparts.com, right? 4 Ranchos @ $46.99 = $180+ 4 ES3000's plus a steering stabilizer: $140+ ship