88pathoffroad

The who what now? So they do work or they don't?

Simon, there's really no way for fluid to transfer between the two, even if you did blow a seal in that area. If one started leaking it'd come out a small drip hole at the bottom. I found that out after taking apart the trans/t-case out of my 89.

What was Summit's price? ES3000's run about $140 from 4wheelparts.com for a package of all 4 plus a steering stabilizer.

The tach does not affect engine performance or operation in any way. You have a problem elsewhere...did you check your air filter after getting it wet? The procedure for checking your ECU error codes is posted in the Garage How-To section...

You guys have it wrong. No jacking up. Just have someone sit in the driver's seat, turn the key on (leave the engine off) and move the steering wheel back and forth while you get underneath to watch the steering joints move back and forth. Take the skidplate off if so equipped for ease of observation. Use a flashlight if there is low light. Excessive slop is bad, mmkay?

I wouldn't go so far as to say "easily". You will still have to trim the fenders a LOT to keep them from rubbing.

Methinks you want 33" tires, not 33" wheels, right? 33x10.50 or 12.50 on a 15x8 with 4" backspacing. A 10" wide wheel will create more problems than it will solve. I have the 33x13.50's on 15x8.5's and the extra width/weight is simply asking for trouble with the stock steering. You can fit 33x10.50's on with only a 3" BL (I did) but you will still need to trim the fenders or those tires will self-clearance themselves and you won't like the results.

Ebay. Craigslist? heh.

You guys are hilarious. Sheesh. Betting on error codes...lol 33 is the O2 sensor, 34 is the knock sensor. Sometimes the knock sensor code will come up erroneously along with other codes, so I'd pay more attention to the O2 sensor than the knock sensor. How's your fuel mileage? When the O2 sensor goes it tends to cause poor mileage and perhaps some black smoke or a rich smell to the exhaust. Stock mileage should be 15 city, 18 highway. Naturally, a used vehicle will probably not get that much if poorly maintained but it should be relatively close to that if nothing else is wrong with it.

Ditto, and it could be the headlight switch.

lol, nice thread title. MOOG stuff works OK. Last time I just got cheap uppers at Schuck's Auto Parts and they've been on there ever since.

Check your valve cover screws. If they're loose you can get a nice leak that is easily fixable in about ten minutes. Takes a large Philips head screwdriver.

Might as well just save yourself some time and get out the tinsnips IMHO. It's never going to matter to anyone but you.

Nice. I wish OLN were available on basic cable...

You want a turbo 6 for better gas mileage? Methinks you'd better look at the specs for the aforementioned cars first.

JC Whitney's been around for a LONG time, and the pans are rather thick to begin with. I'd take the trans pan off when you can to check thickness.

87-95 H233B's have 31 splines.

When the shifter is put into "4WD", the transfer case is actively sending power to the front wheels. If it's in "2WD", it just sends all the juice to the back wheels. The auto hubs lock when torque is applied to the CV axles (in 4WD only) and unlock after stopping and reversing for about 10-20 feet. If you don't reverse to unlock the hubs they may stay locked for a bit and can cause steering stress, but not as much as when the t-case is in 4WD.

Mine were $5 each at a junkyard. No such thing as a better trans pan, just stock ones. The aftermarket hates Nissan trucks.

Meh, those things are only for looks...when do you think you'll ever use it? I had one from a Montero, I never did get to use it cause most of the time I was watching where I was driving, not watching the clinometer.

If one of your torsion bars were broken, one side of your front end/suspension would be laying flat down as low as it would go and it would probably rub on the tire real bad. Still sure about this one? Ebay is your best bet for a factory service manual, they only have paper copies for 92 and older. Mine was around $50 on Ebay and worth much more than that. Chilton's and Haynes books are OK if you can figure out which model they're talking about and pay attention to the details. Most service websites with tech info on Nissans are either flat-out wrong or REALLY drawn-out and unnecessarily technical. The ECCS thing is just a cover for the distributor and is entirely removeable. Wrong again. I DO have EFI. Electronic Fuel Injection. A carburetor is NOTHING like a TBI. What I don't have is Multi-Port Fuel Injection. Big whoop, the difference is 7 HP.

They just wear out way too fast for daily driving, is the thing. They're REAL soft. No mileage warranty on Boggers.

Like they said above, get under there and adjust the cables or adjust the brakes in the rear.

God dammit Redfinder, 87-89's are NOT carbureted. They are TBI, which is THROTTLE BODY INJECTION. I would actually like to see you drive a Pathy with two broken tie rods. It would look something like this in short order. The steering wheel would not physically be connected to the wheels in any way... I think you have your terminology wrong. Perhaps the tension rods were broken?

Use #000 or #0000 steel wool and a little cleaner on chrome, it will shine right up. Wax them after that so they don't rust.